Routes in Australia for selected grade

The name says it all.

More like hard forearms. Not a good idea to fall off the initial wall from a height. Its easy to scramble in from the right to place gear and toprope the first 4m if you value your ankles. DRB on ledge at top.

Dramatic architecture. Some people find this sleazy and gross, some find it interesting and funky.. feeling lucky? Start 5m R of the conifer.

A good warm-up for the steep stuff. This used to start beneath the "Beware of this Block" block and undercling it (!), but start to the right instead.

Starts a few metres left of Practical Cats. Up via 2 bolts then some trad gear to the anchor.

Fixed wire replaced by a bolt. Be careful of crappy rock up high. Has anchor off to the right. Start below thin seam where the track dips down.

Start just left of overhang, 4m R of Practical Cats. Up past bolt to short crack then horizontal break, being careful not to fall off getting to crack. Continue up wall slightly left past big pockets and back up rightish to top. Finish at Rap anchor. A #5 cam is not needed as stated in the latest guide, in fact there is nowhere to put it.

A fun little roof. The 'Pilot Error' of Kitten Wall. In a little cave below 'Cadence'

A sustained and technical traverse under the ceiling, starting from the lefthand end of the wall. Can be approached via 'Cadence' as well.

Start: Start at the blocky corner marking the left end of the smooth orange wall.

1. 20m (22) Up corner to roof and traverse right with increasing difficulty to a small stance.

2. 35m (23) Continue right with even greater difficulty to obvious break in roof. Over and up to slings or easily to rap anchor above Celluloid heroes.

An interesting climb which is tough for the grade. Maybe it should be 23. Although some have found double ropes are handy, a single rope works fine. Chains on top.

Start at the left-facing flake-corner halfway along the wall (sharing the start of Strangers Eliminate). Up the corner to pedestal, up to roof and L. Through the roof and follow the flake, then go straight up through the bulge that offers more than first appearances suggest.

Delicate face climbing

Start: Start 3m right of Strange Tenants

Up to Bolt, then break and on to 2nd Bolt.Up slightly right and up slab (Trad) to Rap Station for In Lieu.

Not a bad traverse if you like that sort of thing. Start: Start from large block just right of Strange Tenants.

Shallow corner capped by little roof, left of 'Bolero'.

Start as for Bugalugs just right of Bolero through pockets to letterbox then straight up the wall with good protection in horizontals.

Up through pockets right of Bolero then move right and climb shallow orange corner to rooflet.

Chossy crack left of Hyperbola to roof. Traverse out right and up arete.

Very exciting.

From belay chain on "Slinkin Leopard" step left then up through small cave, back right and up.

Very pumpy.

Start: Start near the top left end of the wall.

Some bouldery moves. There's a good plunge if you miss the final lunge.

Start: Start just right of "Henry Bolte"

Line of bolts to a lower-off right of "Barbed". Feel like it climbs a bit contrived by where the bolt placements are, but it's a fun little warm up for the main events up the hill. A cam is good for the top if you scare easily

Up for 2 metres then traverse right to pockets and up brushed wall to ledge. Rap as for "Gurtle Tier".

Start: Start 3 metres right of "Barbed" at a short, steep flake.

Maybe 20m below Barbed and 10m up from the Clown a doglegged thin crack doesn't reach the ground. Up seam in grey slab until desperately thin moves gain crack. Rap anchor. Gear is rather sketchy.

The diagonal crack leading left into 'Rosshalde' is slick and fiddly to protect but good fun higher up.

1. 15m (23) Take the diagonal crack into 'Rosshalde' and belay under the roof.

2. 20m (21) Up to roof, traverse out right to Model Phantom and up steep face.

Nice rock and good climbing but it's not worth doing as the other routes are far more logical lines. Start up 'Mysteries' diagonal, when you reach 'Blue Eyed and Blond' follow it up and right, then keep traversing right. Up higher go right and left a few more times to ensure you've got the most out of the wall, then traverse with your hands on the top and downclimb Rosshalde.

The good section hardly makes up for the horrible start and way off.

Start: At lowest point on wall.

Apparently a rope is allowed for the descent, but not the ascent! Unfortunately it seems likely 'Mr Buffalo' is actually a retro-bolted repeat of this route.

Rappel down to a small ledge 4m under the second belay of The Leaden Echo. From this climb straight up brushed slab to cave. Traverse 3m right and finish up

Fantastic finger-crack up the righthand wall of 'The Leaden Echo'.

Start: Either scramble in from the right to a stance or abseil 35 metres from the anchor above 'Mr Buffalo'.

Follow lefthand weakness through bulge then move left and climb the pencil-thin crack through the overlap and beyond.

Orange arête right of Navity past 2 fixed hangers then continue direct up overhung arête on trad to finish at anchors on NDS. Vital #5 wire after 2nd bolt.

A better direct.

Go straight up from start of Dr Paul.

A scary direct start to Golden Echo. Looks worthless but in fact has a fascinating crux section.

Poorly protected start. Douglas doesn't mind at all if someone puts 2 bolts in the start.

Start: Start about 2m R of 'Kachoong'.

Very good and very strenuous.

Avoids the annoying start of Cyclic and makes it into a worthwhile route, unless you are a grumpy old guidebook editor who thinks it ruins the integrity of the existing line. Up In Phase to the finger lock then step right into main line of Cyclic.

Won't make many "best of" lists but the climbing is surprisingly good. Aside from the off chance of toppling 40m down the gully, it's more like a highball boulder problem.

Start up Cellular Destruction, but instead of traversing right, continue up the steep overhanging crack to top out 3m left of the finish of Cellular Destruction.

From the big chalked plate at the top of the gully, move up to disappointing holds from where key gear needs to be placed, then right and up to hard (or is it ?) top-out.

Only 22 if top roped or gear is in place already

By quite some margin the most pointless route on the wall - if not Arapiles - and included for historical reasons only.

Traverse right from start of "Cellular Destruction" through the letterbox slot on "Power Corruption and Lies" to the easy finish crack of "A Taste of Honey".

Up this if you must.

Start about 5m up the gully from High Dive at an enormous horizontal break.

Forgettable traversing R-wards leads to High Dive, where instead of going up, the route (improves significantly and) continues along the lip of the roof that caps the Taste of Honey traverse, eventually joining that route.

(A much better variation is to start up High Dive and finish along this.)

Climbs the inverted staircase just left of "A Taste of Honey" and is a superb companion route to it. Dave Jones used to solo this regularly as a warm up for the harder routes in this gully

Starts at a heavily chalked ledge low in the gully. Traverse R about 4 metres to a fixed wire before heading up on flat holds to the large break of Belly Flop. Traverse R to just before the arete, then up to the next break just below the first bolt of "You're Terminated" (virtually impossible to clip on this route). Now traverse with difficulty R around the arete to easier ground.

Finish up the lovely grade 10 headwall or backjump if you don't suffer from summit fever.

For gear, virtually every cam ever made could be placed at some point in this route, but a #0.3BD protects the crux on the arete nicely.

Start up High Dive, finish up Belly Flop. All the fun of High Dive, a roof to finish and with none of the difficulty.

Start just left of "A Taste of Honey Direct Start" at the bottom of the gully. Up overhanging crack (this was Kim Carrigan's "Cavities" from 1984) through bulge and off-width to a large grey and white ledge.

Continue more easily up corner to High Dive's initial traverse (thread runner) and step off left to finish. Given that the grade for the first half was 24, this may be quite solid at 23.

Up the crack right of Evelyn then wall past bolt to where crack reopens.

It'll be too late once you're at grips with this.

After the initial crack on Lou, continue up just right of mossy streak to where the crack reopens. Gear is probably better than the original but still a little exciting. Look out for a 3 rock to the left of where you climb (it's in the moss) after the crux.

Right of Lou past 2 bolts and some fiddly cams and small wires

The dominant line on the wall is sustained and has just enough small but good protection on the difficult start - which is the crux.

Rings above this also service Tangent.

Scary up the shallow corner and thin wall to join PB

Tangent direct. Reach problem 3 metres right of start of Tangent. Finish direct through the roof as for Angles Up.

'Cos it's next to "The Verge". Gets into some pretty sick territory. Worth doing if you're in the area.

The second pitch (an exciting roof) can also be climbed as a good second pitch for "The Verge".

1. Start up 'The Verge', but instead of stepping right into the scoop ,go straight up through the thin bulge passing a fixed wire on your left. , keep heading up easy orange face to bulge passing a FH to jugs out right and up to break, From there, power straight up the thin bouldery face and onto easy ground up to a high chain rap anchor.

2. The second pitch starts several meters to the right of the chain anchors, (trad anchor available) below an orange column with a FH. Up this to a white scoop under the roof FH. Up and out left along the pumpy lip traverse passing a FH. then over the lip and up to chain rap anchor. Rappel is 30 + m ! FA Robert Mudie & Muki Woods Alt

Because it's thin. Start up 'Sweet Surrender' and move R to below orange wall. Straight up past two bolts then direct up juggy nose above to ledge.

Wonderful direct finish to 'Assistance Required'. Originally climbed Sweet Surrender to the second scoop and then moved right and up wall to high central scoop. Many (most?) parties climb Assistance Required into high central scoop. From the scoop, go straight up steep wall past small cam on lovely rock and over bulge.

Another inspiring route name.

1. 15m (23) Middle of bulging wall right of Vandal's second pitch and just left of the final bit of 'Swallows and Amazons'.

2. 15m (23) Swing onto smooth left wall of 'Vandal', climbing midway between that climb and Puzzlin' Evidence.

Gear is fiddly, take slings for jugs. You can go L above the roof into a small corner, or just straight up. Start on left arete of gully, right of the start of Vandal. Trend right up face, through bulge, then left and up steep wall.

Ramp as for Opening then straight up groove to break. Step left and take thin crack through bulge right of Pick And Lose.

Right arete of Intrepid Gully. Now has a new glue-in U-bolt which requires stick-clipping. The Leasehold rap chains are just to your right on top.

A good little roof leads to an interesting wall.

One very long move on nice rock.

Start just left of enormous conifer and just right of the rock step down and right from Hum. Technical moves lead to a delicate flake. The old carrot bolt, although poking out attractively, has been replaced. Finish at lower off where the nest of viper like rap slings once lurked ready to strike.

Start from the top of pitch 1 of Dante's Inferno. Line left of the arete of Shaky Town, which is just left of the pitch 2 flake of Dante's Inferno.

Knee pad recommended, it has been known to tear pants.

Very poor protection.

Coming in from left, gain arete left of the Dante's Inferno's 2nd pitch flake.

Up 'Comic Relief' to its good rest at the horizontals. Traverse R for a couple of metres and pull around the R side of the bulge (crux) and up onto the stance. Step R and climb the lovely orange wall (R of the upper part of 'Comic Relief') until it joins the last moves of 'Comic Relief' and reaches its anchors. The careful use of a few slings will reduce any rope drag.

Contrived crux but nice top wall.

Up Cut Short to roof then follow line right up shallow groove to ledge. Delicately over bulge. Note: The 2 undercling blocks have now fallen out, and might make the moves and placing gear more difficult.

Precision climbing. Take some micro cams. The wall L of Short Cut, starting from the lower off / belay anchors on Cut Short. Up the wall, then up R-wards past 2 BRs and straight up the up the wall to finish at the lower-off rings.

A serious continuation up the wall beyond 'Cut Short'. From ledge climb short sickle and press on after it stops.

Technically interesting with a tricky crux. Take some micro cams for the start. The orange wall between Short Cut and Day of Rest Direct Finish. The first BR is reachy to clip (a panic draw makes it easy) but not unreasonable if you are climbing at this grade. Up past a second BR to a rest. Clip the next BR, then stretch up and traverse L on horizontals to a fourth BR. Up past this then drift R to lower-off rings.

As for Day of Rest, or come in from Cut Short, to top of Day of Rest first pitch.

1. 25m (22) Traverse up R into shallow groove, which is followed up to the cave, belay. All of the old tat has been cut out of the cave and new rappel rings installed (just below and L of the cave).

2. 5m (22) Now do the roof to the top.

Start on ramp at base of wall, step across curving crack, into small hanging corner on the left, up to horizontal break, above are two short seams, take the one on the right till it ends, then run it out till it eases.

Start: On the ramp at base of wall

1. 30m (23)

2. 5m (22) As for Day of Rest direct Finish

Right of Drama Class is a crack through a roof, hard moves around this lead to the main roof or curtain, follow this all the way left just under the roof the whole way. Start: Left of Phys Ed.

A gymnastic ceiling crack that requires lots of technique, up corner right of Cliff Hanger, or pitch one of No Soft Options then out the the obvious roof crack. Start right of Cliff Hanger, then up corner.

A huge rising traverse, start below left end of No Soft Options' crack.

1. 30m (23) Climb directly to crack, follow it to ledge on the right, step right to Touchdown, then keep going to past bolt, up two meters then step down and right to continue to belay stance.

2. 30m (-) Up right curving corner till it ends, then continue diagonally right to finish up easy corner (Old Mates, according to Louise's guide), to rap rings.

Start is poorly protected. Start 3 metres right of Old Mates and go up diagonally left and over bulges, finishing through middle of final roofs.

The face between 'Werewolf' and 'Solar City' has very fiddly gear.

Start: Start from 'Silver Bullet', midway between 'Solar City' and 'Werewolf'.

Thank your lucky stars that this is no longer graded 19.

Start: Start as for 'Full Moon'.

1. 18m (16) As for 'Full Moon' to a ledge at 18 metres.

2. 22m (23) Bulging wall to left, between 'Goodbye' and Let's Get Pissed to ledge. Left along ledge then right to finish up smooth grey wall just left of Let's Get Pissed.

Start up winterset, then move right under the roof bulge to bolt. Go Big ! Then right and up to finish at ledge.

Up to small bush and then left and up to tricky finish. Start at undercling 4 metres right of Acapulco Gold.

The start is a bit like Paladin but three grades easier. Beware a large loose block at 8m.

Overhanging seam between Renunciation and Serpent LHS, ramble up a bit then arete and wall past two bolts to Serpent chains. Pro is hard to place on the start. Directly below the Serpent chains if you'd prefer to TR.

Subtle and sustained with small protection at start which is hard to place. Start about 6-7 metres right of the arete at a clear initial C.

Used to be a grade 21 sandbag.

Up to the roof, left through it and up. Quite fun on toprope.

The distinctive black corner 5 metres right of Cayenne, finishing left above the corner.

This short steep, left-leaning, black-streaked corner system closely resembles Walk On. Make sure you are on the correct route!

Originally climbed using two protection pegs which disappeared decades ago. A bolt added in lieu of the old pegs was chopped, presumably because of the possibility of a lower cam placement behind a dubious block. That block has fallen out (the climbing is now a grade harder than when the route was established) and the bolt has been replaced (to avoid a ground-fall that a fall from the crux would otherwise entail).

An unusual pitch that is both harder and better than it looks. Start as for Speechless, pull around the arete on the right, then up the blocky line to move up left to an interesting exit left of the thin crack through the bulge.

start a few metres right of the original (a metre or two right of the arete). Straight up to join the original line.

Toprope up the wall R of Anything At All. OK, nothing special.

Start 2 metres right of The Archbishop and go straight up wall to flat roof below left arete. Over this to seam just right of arete. If you climb this route direct it's about 22, it was originally given 18, not sure if this was just meant to be a sandbag or if they avoided the hard bits!

Desperate start with cosmetic protection into easy line right of Salem.

Up cruxy bulging face past fixed hanger to ledge, then trad up easier face and crack to overlap past second fixed hanger, crux, then up to rap station.

A beautiful wall but with chipped holds. Start below a bolt 3 metres left of Tinker Taylor.

Start a couple of metres right of a bottomless left facing (and crackless) corner capped by a small roof.

Climb the obvious overhanging fingery crack on steep red wall.

Overhanging nose just right of 'Pressure Pete'.

Up corner right of LNBATB with weird move past bolt and finish up white streak.

Jam-crack through first large roof.

Layback flake right of Hide And Seek

Corner leads to pillar/flake at half-height.

Start: Just left of 'Phalangaphobia' at small, right-facing corner.