Routes in Australia for selected grade

Opposite beach bulge, is a high start on crimps to a cool mantle.

Contrived but cool moves to avoid using the jug on your right. Jump and slap with your right onto the high slopey sidepull and over the arete.

Same start as BL but go direct to the top out from the break

Start at an under cling low on the R and using the arête feature to gain the break and the top.

Sit start. Traverse the bottom break before joining and topping out at Picnic.

Sit start

Jump from the large, flat rock and grab the rail. Mantle up.

Very cool moves on slopers and undercling. This boulder was only a meter high 2years ago but retreating sands have currently left it exposed.

Really good and solid for the grade. Starts at the R hand end of the arch. A bouldery start then up and R to the roof. The nut on the bolt above the roof maybe loose. Diagonally L to the massive chains.

R of MFB on the seaward facing side of the pinnacle. Climb the gently overhanging finger crunching face past 2 FHs (crux). Trend L clipping the third FH from where the climb eases slightly, then move up the easy slab (2 FHs) to chains.

Start at ramp and up through boulder problem to lower-off DRB. If you use the ramp on left it's an 18.

Just to the right of "JLC Project 3". Up slab to corner weakness over lip to Edibles DRB.

Starts ~30m above ground at the blunt arête L of the 3rd pitch of Vision. The route with the ugly brown carrots. Bolt brackets and good judgement regarding the bolts is required.

Starts down L from SAS and L of the spiky tree.

1. 35m (~22) Climbs up and then crosses over through the first pitch of SAS, through a small rooflet to the chains. The rest of the route will finish up R of the Saint.

Project: Joe Kippax 10/98.

Another classic on Castle Hill. "Saint" for obvious reasons, and "Sinner" because of the dynabolts. It needs to be rebolted.

There are four rap stations on the route and about 50 bolts in total. You'll need about 14 quickdraws and five hangers.

Starting on the far R of Hardman Wall uphill and R of the spiky pandanus tree; the direct start starts to the L of the spiky tree and is a similar grade.

1. 21 35m This pitch has 12 bolts and goes up some sustained territory with the crux above the 9th bolt. A real endurance-fest. Starting R of the tree, up to ledge, then L onto face and up following bolts.

2. 18 25m Follow the bolts to zig R up the slab, and then zag back L to chains.

3. 22 27m (crux) A wandery crux pitch. Up and R out the heavily bolted traverse, up, then an unlikely looking traverse L at the flake. Up the groove and R around final roof to chains.

4. 15 37m Up the crack (2 FH's) and find the line of hangerless bolts up the wall L of the major groove L of the Saint.

Up balancy face, then choose to quest up the groove or the often wet crack. Pull over bulge, then tiptoe up enjoyable slab to anchors. Permadraw at bulge to help when cleaning.

Traverse right from 'Maid in France' anchor then up exposed finish.

A challenging start!

The name say's it all!

A decent route, blessed with some good jugs.

Up the ramp to steep and funky orange groove.

Shares the first six bolts of Spookeye pitch 3. Instead of traversing R, the line continues straight up directly through the rooflet. Quest up to the mini-cave where you strike a golden rest before the final challenging moves to the anchor jugs. Stay clear of the suspect blocks directly up and above the anchors. There's gold in them hills!

Start on right side of obvious arete move up arete to finish. (Large flake on left is loose) Will require long anchor set-up

Found on the far left close to the road. A big bulging piece of rock with a set of 5 moves committing at the top but nice holds, top out on ledge.

Right - (Sit start)

Sit start on crimps.

Sit start on ground to mantle.

Obvious traverse in main wall with green foot painted on it. Starting as far to the right as possible, traverse left along the ledge using obvious holds toping-out at "Fished" Sloped landing with a large rock as a potential hazard.

Best line on the boulder. Sit-start move up through the overhang to top-out.

2-3 pitch grade 22/23

The first ascentionsit took about three falls when climbing it. Getting off the ground looks difficult and under clinging layback up a curving flake. Up past a thin crack with a possibility of an easy escape just below the end. Continue up past the overhanging wide crack to finish.

This route is all natural and was apparently established in the mid 90's by Scott Johnson of Mt Stuart fame. It was attempted in 1997 by Nathan Bolton and Brad Mann.

Start clipped at the first bolt and dyno from small ledge to gain arete. Second to clean. As for chopped, you can mantle arete to equip/ clean route/ skip sections. Can be linked in with Decils if you are looking for more arete hugging.

Start on jug rail, throw a heel and reach the edge below the lip before mantling.

Starting at the base of the large outcrop, climb straight up the chimney to the arete then through the crimpy, boulderly mid-section and onto easier ground. DBB.

Open Project. A single move, dyno problem. Found on the right side of the boulder. The jump is easy, sticking the landing is the hard part! Besides the massive swing you generate, the rock likes to chew your hand up if you don't nail it in the first few attempts.

Arguably harder than the grade states, but once you figure out the footwork, it goes. So make sure you get your feet in the right spots. Its in between two beautiful trees that butterflies really like, so please keep that in mind and don't harm the trees. Very technical moves.

Right of "Stole it from Jamie". Starts with hands matched at head height. The crux is arguably at the middle of the route when you reach for a good tow hand hold. Its very sustained, so make sure you are at least in ludicrous mode.

The original sit-start holds have been broken off over the years, it may still go but it would be harder then V3. Crouching start at the bottom of the crack, follow the crack to the left until you are over the block then move right onto face of boulder using crimps before topping out through the gap on slopers.

Sit start with fist jam and crimp grip, twist up to undercling layback, reach right hand up to arete, layback then reach to left hand grip out on face, then follow arete up to top out.

Starts 2m left of "Mud Wasp". Sit-start under the overhang with feet on small boulder and hands matched on sloper ledge. Moving up and to the left before popping to sharp triangleular crimp. Swing left foot out to brace against the side of the rock, toe hook the lip of boulder with right foot, then mantle to top out.

Standing start in the middle of the dihedral, moving straight up on crimps and side-pulls. link into "Extreme Gardening" to finish.

Sit start. Match feet, match hands. Lunge (RH). Ascend using heelhooks (LF). Mantle.

Open project. Up slab to a reachy and difficult mantle through scoop to top out in middle. CP's for anchor.

A proud line in a super exposed spot with picturesque views. A mega adventure on excellent rock well wroth the hour and a half walk in.

P1) 18m still needs to be freed over hanging 4-6 crack take minimum of three to four number 4 two number 5 and one number 6 beware of knife cutting crack edges, one FH at top leads to semi hanging DBB. will go between 20-25 ranges. (open project)

P2) 25m 23 The money pitch a slightly over hanging pitch following 10 FH to a semi hanging DBB. Mega!

P3) 17m 22 traverse right and low for 3 FH (hard to reach third clip unless you clip from hidden jug on the arete) to reach the areate up areate and slab to a comfortable belay hole and DBB.

P4) 20m 17 follow the 10 FH up slab to DBB.

P5)20m 4 bridges the gap and scramble to the top to a DBB.

Walk off.

The steepest and most sporty climb at the crag.

Direct line up overhanging triangular face at the right hand end of the crag. Sustained and fingery climbing over chossy rock but thankfully short.

Directly up the blank section of wall through two horizontal breaks. Stay true to the line of bolts, no moving out right into the blocky waterfall.

Starts with a bit of a traverse then through bulgy crux on thin holds. Anchors and chains now added.

Probably not in this position or retro-bolted?

Nice climbing on thin holds leading up to an exciting crux.

Not here or retroed?

Enjoyable climbing through easier terrain to a ledge rest below the roof. Muster up the courage and pull some airy moves before gaining the headwall.

This climb is located in the alcove west of the gorge short walk from water hole no bolts exist.

Right Side of the Boulder. Named after the first song of the album, sets the tone for the boulder, strong moves.

Next to Proud. Thin, powerful, balancy

Muscle from a sit start, round the overhang and tough mantle

Sweet and hard looking

Straight up steep arete

Tough one move press up

The left line on the buttress left of the Flying Buttress. Start about 15 left of Flying Buttress. Up past 2 bolts then right to break (2 camalot) and through roof and corner to finish up slab.6 bolts and rap chains (40m to ground).

Start's right of "birdbrain's" corner. (1) straight up passing 4 bolts through bulges to a stance under roof , left through roof crack and up to dbb (chains).(2) 30m 20 ,through roof past 2 bolt's then head for big ramp past 3 more bolts ,belay at top of ramp on bollard. (3) 20m 20 Up steep scoops past 2 bolts, onto ledge up ramp and headwall various sling threads, DBB on ledge. (50m rap to chains on pitch 1 possible)