A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Warning
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
James Frith Drew Henman Jeffrey Richard Hunston Nick Baggaley Kai Cruz Josh Worley Ethan Heinrichs Thelonius Pope Matt Tranter
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Canmore / Bow Valley
1725 in Area
-
1.1.
Acephale 106 in Crag
- 1.1.1. The Junction 8 in Area
- 1.1.2. Lower Wall - Sea of Holes 5 in Area
- 1.1.3. Lower Wall Left 18 in Area
- 1.1.4. Lower Wall Right 14 in Area
- 1.1.5. Right from the Junction 3 in Area
- 1.1.6. Upper Wall - The Mirror Stage 7 in Area
- 1.1.7. Upper Wall - Bataille 25 in Area
- 1.1.8. Upper Wall - The Pavement 21 in Area
- 1.1.9. Down Under 4 in Area
- 1.1.10. Acephale Falls 1 in Area
-
1.2.
Echo Canyon 225 in Crag
-
1.2.1.
Hideaway 31 in Crag
- 1.2.1.1. Hideaway, left 5 in Area
- 1.2.1.2. Hideaway Center 14 in Area
- 1.2.1.3. Hideaway, right 12 in Area
- 1.2.2. Echo Cave 14 in Cliff
- 1.2.3. Prospect Wall 4 in Area
- 1.2.4. The Lookout 14 in Crag
- 1.2.5. The Shield 13 in Cliff
- 1.2.6. The Balcony 12 in Cliff
- 1.2.7. Atlantis Wall 39 in Cliff
- 1.2.8. Bella Vista 15 in Cliff
-
1.2.9.
The Coliseum 41 in Crag
- 1.2.9.1. Saddle-up 20 in Area
- 1.2.9.2. Little Wall 7 in Area
- 1.2.9.3. Pie Wagon 6 in Area
- 1.2.9.4. Tall Storey Wall 8 in Area
-
1.2.10.
The Notch 35 in Area
- 1.2.10.1. Upper Notch 6 in Sector
- 1.2.10.2. The Notch 25 in Sector
- 1.2.10.3. Pocket Wall 4 in Sector
- 1.2.11. Sunset Crag 7 in Area
-
1.2.1.
Hideaway 31 in Crag
-
1.3.
Bataan 107 in Crag
- 1.3.1. The First Cave 19 in Area
- 1.3.2. The Sweet Hereafter / The Dirty Book 14 in Area
- 1.3.3. The Slab 17 in Area
- 1.3.4. The Cheese Grater / Suspended Sentence 17 in Area
- 1.3.5. The Eyes of Bataan 19 in Area
- 1.3.6. The Pacific Theatre 8 in Area
- 1.3.7. Tipperary 7 in Area
- 1.3.8. The Far East 6 in Area
-
1.4.
Cougar Canyon 264 in Crag
- 1.4.1. Sugar Shack 5 in Area
- 1.4.2. House of Cards 30 in Area
- 1.4.3. Casino Crag 22 in Area
- 1.4.4. Cat's Eye Wall 31 in Area
- 1.4.5. Chameleon. 14 in Area
- 1.4.6. Crowbar Wall 22 in Area
- 1.4.7. Made in the Shade 14 in Area
- 1.4.8. Mondo Beyondo 3 in Area
- 1.4.9. Buffle Head 3 in Area
- 1.4.10. Poolside 8 in Area
- 1.4.11. Hillside Crag 5 in Crag
- 1.4.12. Covert Crag 5 in Crag
- 1.4.13. Catamount 10 in Area
- 1.4.14. Heatwave 5 in Area
- 1.4.15. Cosmology Crag 22 in Area
- 1.4.16. The Caribbean 6 in Area
- 1.4.17. Cavern Crag 2 in Area
- 1.4.18. La Playa Negra 2 in Area
- 1.4.19. Canadian Forks 16 in Area
- 1.4.20. Planet X / Planet Ten 22 in Area
- 1.4.21. Creekside Crag 15 in Area
- 1.4.22. Krabi Crag 2 in Area
-
1.5.
Grassi Lakes 103 in Crag
- 1.5.1. The Ghetto 7 in Area
- 1.5.2. The Rectory 12 in Area
- 1.5.3. White Imperialist Area 14 in Area
- 1.5.4. White Imperialist, Right 7 in Area
- 1.5.5. The Golf Course 7 in Area
- 1.5.6. Meathooks Area 8 in Area
- 1.5.7. Graceland Area 9 in Area
- 1.5.8. Gardener's Wall 13 in Area
- 1.5.9. Hermit Wall 19 in Area
- 1.5.10. Swamp Buttress 5 in Area
- 1.5.11. Roadhouse 2 in Unknown
-
1.6.
Heart Creek 223 in Crag
- 1.6.1. First Rock 29 in Crag
- 1.6.2. The Solstice 5 in Area
- 1.6.3. Heart & Sole 4 in Area
- 1.6.4. Jupiter Rock 18 in Area
- 1.6.5. Sumc Buttress 11 in Area
- 1.6.6. Blackheart 11 in Area
- 1.6.7. Bunny Hill 12 in Area
- 1.6.8. Waterfall Wall 12 in Area
- 1.6.9. The Bayon 19 in Area
- 1.6.10. The Book Club 2 in Sector
- 1.6.11. Golden Arch Crag 9 in Area
- 1.6.12. Upper Heart Crag 16 in Area
-
1.6.13.
Amphitheatre 21 in Area
- 1.6.13.1. Patriot's Groove 4 in Sector
- 1.6.13.2. Upper Amphitheatre 17 in Sector
- 1.6.14. Amphitheatre, Left Side 12 in Area
-
1.6.15.
Lower Heart Crag 10 in Area
- 1.6.15.1. North Wing 4 in Area
- 1.6.16. Heart Slab 20 in Area
- 1.6.17. Heart Mountain 3 in Area
- 1.6.18. Sixth Bridge 9 in Unknown
-
1.7.
Grotto Canyon 266 in Crag
- 1.7.1. The Headwall 9 in Area
- 1.7.2. Grotto Falls 2 in Area
- 1.7.3. Water Wall Left 18 in Area
- 1.7.4. Water Wall Right 12 in Area
- 1.7.5. Hemingway Wall Left 19 in Area
- 1.7.6. Hemingway Wall Right 18 in Area
- 1.7.7. Three Tier Buttress 7 in Area
- 1.7.8. The Peanut 1 in Area
- 1.7.9. Paintings Wall South 11 in Area
- 1.7.10. Paintings Wall North 16 in Area
- 1.7.11. Lower White Wing 9 in Area
- 1.7.12. Upper White Wing 14 in Area
- 1.7.13. The Alley -Left 4 in Area
- 1.7.14. The Alley - Centre 6 in Area
- 1.7.15. The Alley - Right 8 in Area
- 1.7.16. Lower Narrows 19 in Area
- 1.7.17. Illusion Rock 12 in Area
- 1.7.18. Delusion Rock 2 in Area
- 1.7.19. Upper Narrows 8 in Area
- 1.7.20. Exit Wall 2 in Area
- 1.7.21. Armadillo Buttress 5 in Area
- 1.7.22. Family Krag 4 in Area
- 1.7.23. Silk Cuts 6 in Area
- 1.7.24. Upper Tier 7 in Area
- 1.7.25. Garden Rock 4 in Area
- 1.7.26. Hoodoo Crag 8 in Area
- 1.7.27. Grotto Slab 21 in Area
- 1.7.28. Aqua Slab 5 in Area
- 1.7.29. The Uncharted Sea 9 in Area
-
1.8.
Bonsai Boulders / Bonsai 44 in Area
- 1.8.1. The Cottage / The Chopping Block 19 in Boulder
- 1.8.2. Lil’Un 4 in Boulder
- 1.8.3. Forget me Knot 2 in Boulder
- 1.8.4. The Garden / Main Area 19 in Field
- 1.9. Windtower 3 in Area
- 1.10. Rimwall 4 in Area
-
1.11.
EEOR / East End of Rundle 37 in Crag
- 1.11.1. Old Goat Crag 13 in Crag
-
1.12.
Kanga Crag 42 in Crag
- 1.12.1. Kanga, Left 8 in Area
- 1.12.2. Kanga, Main Wall Left 9 in Area
- 1.12.3. Kanga, Main Wall Right 6 in Area
- 1.12.4. Spud Wall 4 in Area
- 1.12.5. Raptor Wall 7 in Area
- 1.12.6. Head Bangers Rock 2 in Area
- 1.12.7. Canmore Junkyards 1 in Area
- 1.12.8. Kanga upper left wall 1 in Area
- 1.12.9. Whiteman Crag 4 in Area
- 1.13. Viagra Point 2 in Crag
- 1.14. Ha Ling Peak 9 in Crag
- 1.15. Canmore Wall 4 in Area
-
1.16.
The Stoneworks 55 in Crag
- 1.16.1. Lower South Side 9 in Area
- 1.16.2. The UnderWorld 5 in Area
- 1.16.3. Upper North Side 9 in Area
- 1.16.4. Upper South Side 8 in Area
- 1.16.5. Weird Wall 4 in Area
- 1.16.6. The Arcade 9 in Area
- 1.16.7. Vsion Cave 11 in Crag
- 1.17. Grotto Corner 4 in Crag
- 1.18. Crag X 13 in Crag
-
1.19.
Steve Canyon 24 in Crag
- 1.19.1. Upper Wall 8 in Area
- 1.19.2. Lower Crags 16 in Area
-
1.20.
Mount Fable 6 in Crag
- 1.20.1. Exshaw Slabs 2 in Area
- 1.20.2. Mount Fable 4 in Area
- 1.21. McGillivray Slabs 15 in Crag
-
1.22.
McGillivary Canyon 43 in Area
- 1.22.1. Velvet Underground 4 in Crag
- 1.22.2. Alumni Wall 9 in Crag
- 1.22.3. University Wall 19 in Crag
- 1.22.4. The Faculty 11 in Crag
-
1.23.
Bathtub Brook 7 in Crag
- 1.23.1. Fire Wall 4 in Area
- 1.23.2. French Made Crag 3 in Area
- 1.24. The Alcove 5 in Crag
-
1.25.
The Sanctuary 17 in Crag
- 1.25.1. Left Cliff 4 in Area
- 1.25.2. Lower Cliff 13 in Area
- 1.26. Stewart Creek 1 in Area
-
1.27.
Grotto Mountain 46 in Area
- 1.27.1. The Playground 23 in Area
- 1.27.2. The Apocalypse Cave 18 in Crag
- 1.28. Lady Macdonald 2 in Area
-
1.29.
Three Sisters 2 in Area
-
1.29.1.
Little Sister 2 in Area
- 1.29.1.1. North Face 2 in Area
-
1.29.1.
Little Sister 2 in Area
- 1.30. The Drive-In 8 in Crag
- 1.31. Door Jamb Mountain 4 in Crag
- 1.32. Old Goat Glacier Boulders 0 in Area
- 1.33. The Cave (The Vsion) 0 in Gym
-
1.34.
Elevation Place / E.P 12 in Gym
- 1.34.1. Bouldering Wall 8 in Boulder
- 1.34.2. Big Roof Wall 4 in Unknown
- 1.35. Oliver Twist 1 in Cliff
- 1.36. Blue Cheese 1 in Cliff
-
1.37.
Expressions Wall 16 in Crag
- 1.37.1. Bench Area 6 in Sector
- 1.37.2. Perch Area 7 in Sector
- 1.37.3. The Far Left 3 in Sector
-
1.38.
Jura Creek 4 in Area
- 1.38.1. Sugar Cube Area 4 in Boulder
-
1.1.
Acephale 106 in Crag
- 2. Index by grade
1. Canmore 1,725 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Rock climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 51.028633, -115.311851
summary
This is Southern Alberta's major climbing area. It is centered around the town of Canmore, and most of it is also known as the Bow Valley.
description
Tons of trad and sport climbing in dozens of crags. The best season is from April to October. Canmore is the center of the climbing in the Bow Valley.
approach
You can reach Canmore from Calgary by bus or car. You might need a car to reach the crags in Bow Valley.
|
1.1. Acephale 106 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.056397, -115.123769
1.1.1. The Junction 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.061933, -115.117531
summary
The first wall you will see apon gaining Acephale. The Juction seperates upper wall to lower wall. The climbing here is defintely worth the time.
description
Very sharp, enduro routes. Some of the best 12b's in the valley live here.
access issues
none
approach
45mins
where to stay
canmore yyc
ethic
respect
history
Jd Leblanc, Lev Pinter, Todd Guyn.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Bucking Horse
Start to the left of the dirty flake. If you persist through the rotten bottom, you’ll be rewarded with an endless stretch of great climbing above. FA: Todd Guyn | 5.12b | 34m, 13 | |||
2 |
★★★ Hickory Dickory Dock
Using the dirty flake head straight up and over the ledge to a no hands rest. Punch last two fixed draws to a rest out left. Motor to the top. Classic FA: Todd Guyn | 5.12b | 34m, 16 | |||
3 |
★★ Duck Bill
Climb Hickory Dickory Dock to bolt four on the rest and trend left. Difficult climbing leads to a boulder problem below the anchor. FA: Jd Leblanc | 5.12c | 31m, 15 | |||
4 |
★★ Go Ask Alice
Start to the left of the yellow streak. Easyish climbing to an excellent rest is followed by increasingly difficult moves and clips up the blank wall. Surf around and finish with a tricky mantle. FA: Jd Leblanc | 5.12d | 34m, 2, 18 | |||
5 | ★★ Lose Yourself | 5.12b | 30m | |||
6 |
★ Nitro light
An excellent technical warm up punctuated by jugs. FA: Lev Pinter | 5.11c | 11m, 7 | |||
7 |
★ Nitro
A hardish boulder problem leads to a very fun airy easy finish. FA: Lev Pinter, 2015 | 5.12c | 32m, 2, 12 | |||
8 |
★★ Go Light
Link up. Worth doing for a warm up. Start on Go Ask Alice, climb the vert tech and traverse in right on buckets after the 4th bolt and clip the anchor of Nitro Light. | 5.11a | 12m, 4 |
1.1.2. Lower Wall - Sea of Holes 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 51.061917, -115.117356
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Approach Route
Stick clip the 1st bolt. Excellent movement in the blue rock with a great heel hook crux going over the lip. 11c/d FA: Joe Bus | 5.11d | 13m, 4 | |||
2 | ★ Pandora | 5.13c | 32m, 16 | |||
3 |
★★ Pluvial Power
Start below a yellow ledge. Follow long moves to awesome pockets up the steep wall, switch gears over the clean face climb above FA: Andy G | 5.12a | 12m, 5 | |||
4 |
★ Static Dynos
Sustained pumpy big moves ends at the lip of the wall. Switch gears and crimp away on a featureless clean slab. | 5.12a | 13m, 6 | |||
5 | Project |
1.1.3. Lower Wall Left 18 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Keys in the Car | 5.10c | ||||
2 | ★★ Nickel Bag | 5.10d | ||||
3 | Nickel Bag (Direct Start) | 5.11a | ||||
4 |
★★ Girl Drink Drunk
Sketchy now with the ground level eroded away by the flood. Needs a new first bolt | 5.12a | ||||
5 | ★★ The Irradicator | 5.12a | ||||
6 | ★★ Illy Down | 5.12a | ||||
7 |
★ Ice-Cream Head
Sketchy now with the ground level eroded away by the flood. Needs a new first bolt FA: JD LeBlanc & FAA Todd Guyn | 5.12d | ||||
8 |
★ Subbacultcha
Sketchy now with the ground level eroded away by the flood. Needs a new first bolt | 5.12a | ||||
9 |
Ice Cream Head direct start
Sketchy now with the ground level eroded away by the flood. Needs a new first bolt FA: Derek Galloway | 5.13a | ||||
10 |
Conception
Set: Maddy Marchuk, 2019 | 5.13b | ||||
11 |
Underestimated
Set: Maddy Marchuk, 2019 | 5.12c | ||||
12 |
Chawesome Corner
Set: Maddy Marchuk, 2019 | 5.12b | ||||
13 |
Gumbino Invasion
FA: Marcus Norman, 2019 | 5.12c | ||||
14 |
Eidolons
FA: Marcus Norman, 2019 | 5.13a | ||||
15 |
Sol Food
FA: Ysbrand Nusse, 2019 | 5.11a | ||||
16 |
Fresh Cut
FA: Mason Tessier | 5.11b | ||||
17 |
Casanova
FA: Mason Tessier | 5.12b | ||||
18 |
Sport Yoga
FA: Pat Delaney, 2019 | 5.12b |
1.1.4. Lower Wall Right 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.061942, -115.117216
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Justine | 5.11d | ||||||
2 | ★ La Part Maudite | 5.12c | ||||||
3 |
★★★ Naissance de la Femme
Spectacular, technical climbing on bullet limestone, rises in difficulty. One of the best of the grade in the country. | 5.13b | 24m | |||||
4 | ★★ Deal With It | 5.12c | ||||||
5 | ★ Neoconstructionist | 5.11b | ||||||
6 | ★ Wet Lust | 5.13c | ||||||
7 |
★★ Neo-Mom
Neoconstructionist for a few bolts, two bolts for the traverse right, then finish on upper section of Where's Mom? | 5.11d | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
★★ Where's Mom?
Technical climbing up nice rock with 2 cruxy moves. 3 rests and powerful climbing to finish. | 5.12a | 25m | |||||
9 | ★★★ Nemo | 5.12d | ||||||
10 | ★★ The Dark Half | 5.13a | ||||||
11 | ★★ S.R.16 | 5.12c | ||||||
12 | ★★ Last Dance | 5.13a | ||||||
13 | ★★ S.R. 16 (Short Version) | 5.11d | 2 | |||||
14 | ★★ The Dark Dance | 5.12c |
1.1.5. Right from the Junction 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Hypochrondriac | 5.12c | 33m | |||
2 | ★★ The Two Towers | 5.12c | 30m, 12 | |||
3 |
Quail
Start on Hypochondriac. After moving past the 4th bolt above the ledge climb up the corners left side to the overhanging wall above. FA: todd Guyn | 5.12c | 33m, 13 |
1.1.6. Upper Wall - The Mirror Stage 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.061602, -115.117764
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Le Jeu Lugubre
Climb between two prominent holes to a crux just before the third bolt. Traverse right on good holds to a couple of hard moves below the anchor. | 5.12c | 23m, 9 | |||
2 |
★★★ Swelltone Theatre
Start off the left end of the ledge and traverse left backcleaning quickdraws to reduce rope drag. This long, beautiful climb features a rare body length tufa and a high and pumpy crux. FA: Daren tremaine, 1994 | 5.12d | 26m, 11 | |||
3 |
★★ Five Hole goal
Climb immediately right of Swelltone Theatre- ascending onto a ledge, backcleaning quickdraws to reduce drag. Shallow pockets in bulging grey stone define the cruxes. Set: Ryan Johnstone FA: Evan Hau, 2011 | 5.13b | 28m, 13 | |||
4 | ★ Full Fathom Five | 5.12b R | 21m | |||
5 |
★★★ Le Bleu du Ciel
After climbing through initial Choss, follow the left hand bolt line past a Hueco. The crux pulls a small roof below the anchor FA: Jd Leblanc | 5.12b | 21m, 9 | |||
6 |
★★ Le Stade du Miroir
Climb Le Bleu Du Ciel to the third bolt before trending right on sustained pockets and pods that lead over small ledges. Pumpy and powerful climbing! FA: Shep Steiner, 1994 | 5.12b | 21m, 10 | |||
7 | Project for a Materialist Sport Climb | 5.12c |
1.1.7. Upper Wall - Bataille 25 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.061611, -115.118144
summary
The blue, grey and yellow streaks that color the Upper Wall are littered with interesting features- hosting a great selection of pockets, pods, pinches and edges. Hardest crag in Canada.
description
This wall gets very little sun which makes for a perfect spot in the middle of summer to crank hard. Bring a jacket! even in July/August.
access issues
None
approach
50mins
where to stay
canmore, yyc
ethic
respect
history
lots and lots. Birth place of hard climbing in the Rockies.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Falling sideways
New one at Upper Wall. Start on a boulder left of Bataille. FA: evan hau | 5.12a | 14m, 6 | |||
2 |
★★ Bataille
Starts to the left of The Warm Up- between two boulders on the ledge. Head up the grey and yellow streaks to the chains. FA: Dale Robinson, 1994 | 5.11b | 10m, 5 | |||
3 |
★ Dale's Extender
Climb the warm up or Bataille following a pockets line of bolts to the left and finish at a long chain anchor | 5.11b | 14m, 9 | |||
4 |
★★ The Angry Inch
From the top of Dales Extender, execute one really hard move off a mono. This route might be a very fast tick if you have tendons of steel! It might also end your climbing season...... FA: Jd LeBlanc, 2000 | 5.13b | 25m, 11 | |||
5 |
★ The Warm-Up
Not a great warm up but its all there is. Perma draws also which is nice. Start at the bottom of the small, left trending ramp and follow the blue streak to the anchor. FA: Shep Steiner, 1996 | 5.11a | 10m, 4 | |||
6 |
★ Porthole to Hell
Climb The Warm-Up then follow a blue streak through a scoop on thin holds above. Gun for a big hole in the yellow rock and then run it out on easy terrain to the top. Set: Shep Steiner FA: Scott Milton, 2000 | 5.13c | 23m, 7 | |||
7 |
★★★ Sweet Thing
This popular line is a good introduction to the harder climbing at the crag. Start to the left of a shallow, right-facing corner and follow a blue streak to two cruxes separated by a poor rest. FA: Todd Guyn, 1994 | 5.13c | 23m, 9 | |||
8 |
★★★ Whale Back
Follow a small blue streak to a roof. Beautiful climbing on pockets and pods lead to an amazing crux pulling onto the "whale back". Finish on a steep headwall. FA: Scott Milton, 2000 | 5.13c | 23m, 9 | |||
9 |
★★★ Jingus Americanus / (Yankee Go Home)
Seriously, Yankees go home....jks. But seriously don't bring your ego to Acephale tourists The most popular 12D in Alberta. Polished, steep, pumpy and short. From the ledge, climb over a chossy section into a (12b) crimpy move, gaining a corner. The "crux" is at the top of the corner and involves a big slap to a sloper from a pocket. Part of the difficulty in this route is clipping the chains, so if you want the 12D tick, don't but any long draws or slings on the anchor!! FAists words. FA: Daren Tremaine, 1993 | 5.12d | 14m, 6 | |||
10 |
★ Fully Jingus
Climb Jingus Americanus to the big slap move. Veer left on pods to hard moves on small holds slapping up the bulge. | 5.13d | 26m, 10 | |||
11 |
★★ Copocobana
Start to the left of a yellow corner capped by a roof. From the ledge, pull the roof and head left into a scoop. Continue left to a finish on Jingus Americanus. FA: scott milton | 5.12c | 14m, 7 | |||
12 |
★ Full Nelson
Climb Half Nelson but continue up beautiful grey rock to an impossible looking crux. Set: Evan Hau FA: Alex Megos, 2016 | 5.14d | 27m, 11 | |||
13 |
★★ Half Nelson
Climb a small right facing corner before pulling a short overlap to reach two bolts worth of compact grey rock. Trend left on pockets to finish on the anchor of Jingus Americanus. FA: Evan Hau, 2013 | 5.12d | 14m, 6 | |||
14 |
★★ The Hype
Start to the right of a yellow corner capped by a roof. Follow the blue streak on edges and pockets to a high crux. Manufactured and glued. FA: Jd LeBlanc, 1997 | 5.13b | 23m, 10 | |||
15 |
★★ The Hood
From the shattered ledge, head up to the horizontal break and veer left. Difficult moves in the overhanging lead into a scoop. Finish with easier climbing on cool pockets. This boulder problem is probably the most tried 5.13 in Alberta. Basically a v8 boulder problem. Set: Jd LeBlanc FA: Todd Guyn, 1995 | 5.13b | 18m, 9 | |||
16 |
★★ Hairball
Retro bolting has eliminated 2 cruxes (clips), and it is now easier than when first climbed. Plus it is actually worth climbing now, as before it was a turd. | 5.13c | ||||
17 |
★★ Altius
This classic has continuously powerful all the way to the bathtub rail. Finish up a small corner FA: Daren Tremaine, 1993 | 5.12c | 15m | |||
18 |
★★ Angst
This is the left most route out of the small cave. Finish on the anchors of Altius FA: Evan Hau, 2012 | 5.14a | 15m, 8 | |||
19 |
★★ Hairball Direct Finish
A heinously blank and runout steep slab above Hairball. Tried by many strong lads over the years but took the worlds strongest fingers needed to free this line of nothing slab. FA: Adam Ondra, 30 Nov 2016 | 5.13d | 2 | |||
20 |
★★ Beam Me Up Scotty
Start in The middle of the chossy ledge and crimp upward to the roof. Big moves and cryptic footwork end with a wild swing. A few tough moves close the deal. FA: Lev pinter, 2005 | 5.13c | 13m, 6 | |||
21 |
★★ The Shine
Climb directly out the centre of the steep overhang. A bouldery crux leads to the safety of large pods above FA: Joe Kinder, 2012 | 5.14b | 18m, 9 | |||
22 |
★★ Kinder Surprise
Climb out the right side of the steep overhang and directly into the desperate crux. At the headwall, finish up Bunda De Fore. | 5.14c | 20m, 11 | |||
23 |
★★★ Bunda De Fora
Start on the right side of the chossy ledge. A very powerful crux negotiates the roof. FA: Lev pinter, 2006 | 5.14d | 20m, 11 | |||
24 |
★★ Prime Time
Similar to its neighbors, Two powerful cruxes separated by a poor rest. Set: Derek Galloway FA: Josh Muller, 2012 | 5.14c | 17m, 9 | |||
25 |
★★ First Flight
Climb through the first crux of Prime Time before traversing right and finishing up First Flight Direct Project. Set: Lev Pinter FA: Josh muller, 2014 | 5.14c | 20m, 14 |
1.1.8. Upper Wall - The Pavement 21 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.061684, -115.119085
summary
The Pavement- the black blank wall right of the main cave area at Upper Wall. This wall hosts one of the hardest climbs in the Americas (Disbelief) 15B which took Adam Ondra multiple weeks to do.
description
The Climbing is extremely cryptic, technical is an understatement. A winter on a campus board is very helpful as the climbing tends to be pure finger strength coupled with strong footwork. Cruxes tend to be bulging boulder problems. As unaesthetic as the wall is, the climbing is absolutely world-class. There is a reason international climbers spend many weeks here.
access issues
nope
approach
1hour
where to stay
canmore yyc
ethic
clean off tick marks, dont be a egotistical little dick, bring a good vibe and respect the history.
history
Many hard men brought history to this wall. From JD LeBlanc, to Matt Pieterson, Josh Muller, Lev Pinter, Evan Hau and Scott Milton.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Leviathan
FA: Lev Pinter; FFA Scott Milton; Scott Milton | 5.14b | 29m | |||
2 |
★★ Existence Mundane
FA: Rick Conover FFA: Scott Milton, 1997 | 5.14b | 17m, 10 | |||
3 |
★★ Endless Summer
Class for the grade! A must do, power enduro test piece. FA: Scott Milton | 5.13d | 19m | |||
4 |
★★★ Army Ants
Start to the left of a yellow streak. burly slaps up a small corner lead to a poor rest and a powerful crimpy section. If you're pumped the moves under the anchor will be heartbreaking. FA: Lev Pinter | 5.13c | 14m | |||
5 |
★ Unknown Stunt Man
Start up Army Ants but make a vicious traverse right into a cool and cruxy dyno. If you fire it dont get too excited- the real redpoint crux lurks above. FA: Scott Milton, 2010 | 5.13d | 25m, 11 | |||
6 |
★★ Disbelief
The direct start to The Unknown Stunt Man. To say this route has footholds as hand holds is a massive understatement! The foot-hand match crux spat Ondra off close to 20times. Hard 15b apparently FA: Adam Ondra, Jul 2018 | 5.15b | 20m | |||
7 |
★★★ The 39 Steps
Sustained crimping off the ground leads to a midway shake, a dynamic move and a well deserved rest. If pumped the top will prove to be more problematic than anticipated. | 5.13a | 13m, 6 | |||
8 |
★ Ojas
Difficult and technical edge climbing, punctuated by good rests, lead to an improbable looking finish the utilizes some grisly footholds. | 5.14a | 22m, 11 | |||
9 |
★★★ Icebox Of Broken Dreams
Start this crimpy line left of a big tree growing two metres from the cliff. A tough bouldery start is followed by an interesting sequence on blankness. Mellow climbing follows before a final bulge redpoint crux. FA: Matt Pi, 2006 | 5.12d | 18m, 8 | |||
10 |
★ La Pause Cafe
Start to the right of the big tree. Boulder up to some hidden holds over a small roof before causing baby blue stone to the anchor. | 5.11c | 10m, 5 | |||
11 |
★ Retour au Travail
Ext to La Pause Cafe FA: Evan Hau, 2015 | 5.12a | 4 | |||
12 |
★ Fern Family Massacre
Many intricate cruxes stand between you and the anchors including one at ground level. Start in a mailbox slot just left of the first bolt. | 5.12d | 27m, 13 | |||
13 |
★★ Each one, Teach one
Short cruxes separated by good rests lead to sustained climbing, a stout deadpoint move and a dicey edit onto the upper slab. A final tough move below the anchor keeps things interesting. | 5.13b | 29m, 13 | |||
14 |
★★★ Rockamoveya
This line features a hard boulder problem start and finish with technical climbing inbetween. FA: Lev Pinter, 2011 | 5.12b | 13m, 6 | |||
15 |
★★ Abandonment
This excellent route starts just left of a leaning tree (by climbing in from Rockemoveya then traversing right on a few pockets). A powerful mid pitch boulder problem is followed by a slab Crux at the top. FA: evan Hau | 5.12d | 14m, 7 | |||
16 |
★ Class is in Session
You better have fingers of steel and ligaments of concrete. A hard series of pulls off the ground leads to easier crimps- a nice rest and very reachy crux. easier above. FA: Josh Muller | 5.13a | 11m, 6 | |||
17 |
★ Hot For Teacher
Clip one more bolt above Class is in Session for a bump in the grade. Vicious and thin. Set: Josh Mullet, 2015 FA: Read Macmullet, 2016 | 5.13c | 13m, 8 | |||
18 |
★ Boner
Climb the grey corner on miniature holds. | 5.11b | 12m | |||
19 |
★★ Raging Boner
From the Boner anchor traverse right to some desperate undercling moves. | 5.12d | 12m, 5 | |||
20 |
★ Cochin Gronchon
The last route on the far right of the wall. A viciously crimpy and technical crux at the second bolt stops must suitors in their tracks. If you survive this section, easier climbing with plenty of rests leads to a heartbreaking finish. | 5.13b | 12m | |||
21 |
★ Jump You Prick, Jump!
A vicious v7/v8 boulder problem off the ground into a great 12a. Not Classic. FA: Scott Milton | 5.13a/b | 20m |
1.1.9. Down Under 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Pomme | 5.10b | 10m | |||
2 | ★★ Moving Target | 5.12b | 24m | |||
3 | ★★ G'day | 5.12a | 19m, 7 | |||
4 |
★★ The Wizard of Oz
Start on the left side of a small ledge on the right end of the wall. Climb straight up on cool pods and pockets to a great finish through a overhang at the top. More traffic would make this classic FA: Jon Jones | 5.12b | 23m, 11 |
1.1.10. Acephale Falls 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Ice climbing
Lat / Long: 51.050084, -115.131460
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Acephale Falls | WI2+ | 22m | |||||
|
1.2. Echo Canyon 225 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.087640, -115.285887
summary
This jewel offers all, technical, powerful, crimpy and juggy climbing on awesome rock.
approach
Park on the road below the Canmore Alpine Club House and hike up steep across the road.
1.2.1. Hideaway 31 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.085209, -115.289454
1.2.1.1. Hideaway, left 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
|
1.2.1.2. Hideaway Center 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
1.2.1.3. Hideaway, right 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
1.2.2. Echo Cave 14 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.086665, -115.289935
description
Like the rest of echo this is a fast developing crag. http://tabvar.org/alberta/canmore/grotto_mountain?sort_by=created&sort_order=DESC&=Apply Keep up to date on this wall as Exho is constantly changing season by season
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
No Surrender
One of the BV’s steepest routes features multiple cruxes separated by large rests. FA: Grzegorz Florek, 2020 | 5.14b | ||||||
2 |
Bat Shit Crazy
FA: Bonar Mc | 5.13c | 20m | |||||
3 |
★ Hand Party
Steep line up the right hand side of the cave. FA: Marcus Norman | 5.12c | 22m | |||||
4 |
★ Bullet Time
Climb Hand Party, but move right to finish at Morpheus anchor. FA: Marcus Norman | 5.12a | ||||||
5 |
★★★ Morpheus
Climbs the lip of the cave with a very steep ending. It's the only climb with glue in bolts. If it's not wet give it a go! | 5.12b | 25m, 9 | |||||
6 |
★★★ Echo
Power endurance, puzzling climbing up the solid, bullet limestone face. Set: Greg Tos, 2004 FA: Bonar Mc, 2006 | 5.13a | 22m, 9 | |||||
7 |
★★★ Glueless
Bizarre, technical climbing up the beautiful immaculate, grey face. Tic-tac your way up on tiny grips, to an intricate crux requiring some serious footwork near the top. Set: Greg Tos FA: Grzegorz Florek, 2011 | 5.13b | 15m | |||||
8 |
★★ Destination Unknown
Classy boulder problems separated by an acceptable rest. FA: Greg Tos | 5.12d | 16m, 8 | |||||
9 |
★★ Stay Gold
This route follows the white and yellow streak. A fiendishly cryptic sequence down low leads to excellent featured climbing and a heartbreak crux at the top. FA: Lloyd King, 2013 | 5.13a | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
10 |
★★ Fontainebleau Basics
Hard face climbing leads into 5.13 slab! Not everyone's cup of tea. But unique with very powerful footwork. Set: Greg Tos FA: Adam Fiala, 2020 | 5.13b | 20m | |||||
11 |
★★★ Take a Minute
Multiple cruxes give way to a final crux and a dash to the anchor. A tricky onsight! FA: Greg Tos | 5.11d | 25m | |||||
12 |
★★★ Lost and Found
Has been called the best 12C in the Rockies by the few who know where this route is. Climbs next to the very chossy cave (first bolt rock is abit loose). Get ready for every style of climbing for 35m's! Begins with a burly roof, into a very balancey, technical face climb up a stunning streak, around a powerful Boulder problems into more technical climbing on a hard slab. This route is for people who love climbing! ( not just one style) enjoy this classic! FA: Greg Tos | 5.12c | 35m, 13 | |||||
13 |
★★ Cardboard Cowboy
If you can digest the choss at the bottom, you’ll be rewarded above. A crux at the roof is followed by an amazing head wall. FA: Bonar McCallum, 2020 | 5.13b | ||||||
14 | Garden of Eden | 5.11a |
1.2.3. Prospect Wall 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Prospect
A fun rest day climb! Not exactly in echo cave's sector. But down from the cave and on the same wall that heads up to the Lookout you can find this route. It's the first route on the approach path, left of Where The Wild Things are. | 5.10b | 100m, 4, 10 | |||
2 | Where The Wild Things Are | 5.12a | 90m, 3 | |||
3 |
★ Where The Wild Things Are P1
Abit of a bush bash for the first few bolts gets you on a ledge where the rock turns perfect. Climb the big scoop with a engaging crux! FA: Greg Tos | 5.11a | 28m | |||
4 | Highway to the Danger zone | 5.13c |
1.2.4. The Lookout 14 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.087262, -115.289194
summary
One of the more popular cliffs in the Canmore area with excellent rock quality.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ November Rain
Blocky climbing gets you into a fun arête. A few more moves gains a slab of immaculate stone. It's all in the feet! | 5.9 | 15m, 6 | |||||
2 |
★★★ Texas Hold'em
The lookouts best 11a !! Enjoy this sustained superb route on fantastic stone. The ending is unreal and gains a excellent position. Technical and powerful! What more can you ask for | 5.11a | 27m, 10 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
3 |
★ Crying Roof
Fun climbing to the big roof where guess where the crux is. One move wonder | 5.11a | 19m, 8 | |||||
4 |
★★ Sheep Metal
Climb the immaculate arête on big holds. Super great for the grade | 5.8 | 19m, 8 | |||||
5 | ★ Remembrance Day | 5.9 | 29m, 12 | |||||
6 | ★★ Pale Ale | 5.10d | 27m, 11 | |||||
7 | ★★ Graduation | 5.10d | 27m, 8 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 |
Sandbox
Possibly the worst, loosest route at Echo! | 5.10d | 28m, 6 | |||||
9 |
★★ Caramel Macchiato
This technical and very balancey, long route is a climbers dream! Feels like a total adventure | 5.10a | 28m, 12 | |||||
10 | ★★★ The Mandatory Masquerade | 5.11b | ||||||
11 |
★★★ No Love
Great technical climbing up fantastic rock! No real crux, just tons of mini ones. | 5.11b | 26m, 11 | |||||
12 |
★★ Watchmen
Very hard to read and quite perplexing in sections. Another technical masterpiece at the Lookout on amazing stone. | 5.11c | 27m, 9 | |||||
13 |
★★★ Bench With a View
One of the best 11b/c's in the valley! A fantastic crux down low with a big move is followed by technical climbing with great rests. A steep ending with another short crux finishes it with a sensational position. FA: Greg Tos | 5.11b | ||||||
14 |
★★ Aarongone
Hard for grade but that's what "D" grades are like. Stick clip is recommend as there is a hard move straight off the bat. Sustained technical climbing with a few more powerful moves brings you to a small corner/roof. A in your face crux surmounts it on sloppers. A very pumpy finish concludes it. | 5.11d | 27m, 12 |
1.2.5. The Shield 13 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.087588, -115.288736
description
Some of the best limestone can offer. This wall is extremely technical and highly textured stone. You have to be efficient at all styles of climbing to be successful here as most climbs varie in style.
approach
1 hour up hill from the ACC car park.
history
Greg tos's love child
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Staycation
The newest addition to The Shield sector of The Lookout. It is to the left of Younger Than Yesterday and to the right of Aragon. A cool sequential 5.11 move down low over the small roof gets the blood flowing. Into a technical fun slab. Shake and crank the amazing flake feature into a Boulder problem. A really beauty/heady/powerful move gains a cool fin like jug, before crimping hard to a pumpy finish. Another beauty route at the Shield sector FA: Irene Tos, Oct 2016 | 5.12c | 27m, 12 | |||||
2 |
★★★ Younger Then Yesterday
Test piece! Campus board training is a must. Set: Greg Tos FA: Derek Galloway | 5.13d | 23m | |||||
3 | Project | |||||||
4 | Project 2 | |||||||
5 | ★ Bob Lob Law | 5.13b | ||||||
6 |
★★★ Bob Loblaw Direct
The direct start to the original 5.13b route "Bob Loblaw". This direct start begins about 2-3 feet to the right of the original line (left of Super mega destroyer, 5.13c) and takes a much nicer and mellower start than the original. Set: Bonar | 5.12d | ||||||
7 | Super Mega Destroyer | 5.13b | 21m, 10 | |||||
8 | ★★★ Stepping Stone | 5.13b | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
9 |
★★★ Power of Youth
This Tos-Classic is two left of Tetris. Climbs the beautiful Grey-Streak with alot of styles! Starts with balancey face climbing, to a very sequential, power-endurance section. Micro-shake quickly and crank another crux before gaining an actual rest. Big moves above, to another rest, then a 5.11+ Slab problem adds a great red point crux. Test for the grade for 12- climbers on fantastic stone! FA: Greg Tos | 5.12b | 28m, 12 | |||||
10 | ★★ Wasted on the Way | 5.12b | 18m, 8 | |||||
11 |
★★★ Tetris
This fantastic technical route is tricky enough to keep you on your toes the whole way untill the crux at the last bolt. FA: Greg Tos, 2010 | 5.12a | 18m, 8 | |||||
12 |
★★ Tickornot
An interesting start gains a cool flake and a sustained middle section with very technical movement. A powerful move gains a less steep section on much easier climbing. | 5.11b | 22m, 12 | |||||
13 | ★ Start Line | 5.10d | 23m, 8 |
1.2.6. The Balcony 12 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.087819, -115.288096
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Double Exposure | 5.12d | 32m, 17 | |||||
2 | Slabaphobia | 5.11d | 25m, 10 | |||||
3 | Closed Project | |||||||
4 | A Wingsuit for Christmas | 5.13d | 32m, 16 | |||||
5 | ★★★ Wedding Crasher | 5.13a | 32m, 16 | |||||
6 | ★★★ Eleven Months of Summer | 5.12c | 29m, 14 | |||||
7 | Stedler and Walldorf | 5.11b | 34m, 17 | |||||
8 | Falling Leaf | 5.11a | 15m, 7 | |||||
9 | extension to Falling leaf | 5.11c | 32m, 16 | |||||
10 | Chicken Pot Pie | 5.12d | 20m, 8 | |||||
11 | The Divide | 5.12a | 28m, 9 | |||||
12 | The Great Divide | 5.12b | 45m, 17 |
1.2.7. Atlantis Wall 39 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.088074, -115.287544
description
This is premier crag of the Bow Valley. Many test pieces. It is constantly changing and evolving so keep up to date here as all the guides books are useless now with so much new construction http://www.tabvar.org/node/242.
approach
1.30hr but worth it. Best limestone in the Valley
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Rozgrzewka / Warm-up | 5.11c | 43m, 19 | |||
2 |
★★ Rozgrzewka mid-way anchor / Warm-up mid-way anchor
Offload at the midway anchor for Rozgrzewka. | 5.11b | 25m | |||
3 |
Pump Up the Jam
A technical start to a hard to read roof encounter where you'll find the crux. Easy climbing above! Not an ideal warm up | 5.11a | 25m, 11 | |||
4 | ★ Jump to The Pump | 5.12d | ||||
5 |
★ Funky Bunch
A pretty strange route (you'll see)! Feels contrived. The only 5.10 at Atlantis wall FA: Marc A | 5.10b | 13m, 7 | |||
6 |
★★★ Fresh Prince
One of the best 13a's in the Rockies. FA: Aaron P | 5.13a | 30m, 17 | |||
7 |
★★ Toxicity
Was 13a by the first ascent team, but was downgraded for poor reasons...cough* Start on Bug’s life but Veer left at the rest. Multiple powerful and pumpy 5.12 moves all the way to the anchor. FA: Derrk Galloway & Gery Un | 5.12d | 25m | |||
8 |
★★★ Bug's Life
An intro, short-lived boulder-problem, gains a no hands. Pumpy climbing to a long v4 Boulder up top. Claw to the chains! FA: Aaron P, 2010 | 5.12b | 25m, 10 | |||
9 |
★★★ My Two Bits
This outstanding, long pitch has multiple cruxes (5 or 6?) and a super pumpy ending with big lock offs on crimps and jugs! Start atop of a 2m high pillar. Hard for the grade= C L A S S IC FA: Greg Tos | 5.12b | 26m, 11 | |||
10 |
★★★ FFAntom Love
One of the best 5.11's in the Bow Valley lives here. Enjoy 6 mini 5.11 cruxes on route to the anchor with every single style of climbing. And yes the large roof is as pumpy as you imagine! FA: Greg Tos | 5.11d | 21m, 12 | |||
11 |
★★★ Bingo Bongo
The left variation of Ffantom Love. | 5.12c | 26m | |||
12 |
★★ Respected Silence
A very bouldery start off a undercling, gets you ready to attack the duelling sidepull rails. Compression is key! Don’t be too cocky, because up high lies a nice 12- redpoint Crux. FA: Greg Tos | 5.12c | 16m, 8 | |||
13 |
★★ The Midget
Either hate it or love it. A Powerful little fella! | 5.11b | 12m, 4 | |||
14 |
★★ Burn to Shine
This pump fest starts left of AYCE. Climb a 25m 12a into a decent rest then get ready to attack a hard pumpy boulder all the way to the chains. A 70m rope barely gets back to the ground FA: Gerry Un | 5.12d | 37m, 16 | |||
15 |
★★ All You Can Eat
After a thin, reachy, powerful and technical crux down Low, enjoy really fun and pumpy climbing on mainly jugs. FA: Derek galloway, 2010 | 5.12c | 26m, 11 | |||
16 |
★ All You Can Eat Seconds
Continue past the first anchor of All You Can Eat to a powerful mono crux and roof encounter. Sustained climbing leads to anchors high on the wall. FA: Evan Hau, 2015 | 5.13d | 49m, 2, 19 | |||
17 |
★★ All You Can Eat Variation
A link up of the most natural line through this section of the wall. Climb Atlantis for the first 4 bolts, clip the variation bolt left and start jumping between jugs on All You Can Eat for the very pumpy finish. | 5.12a | 27m, 12 | |||
18 |
★★★ Atlantis
The route that started it all. | 5.12c | 23m, 11 | |||
19 | Bone Thief | 5.12d | 23m, 12 | |||
20 |
★★★ Buffet Royal P1
A super funky sequence into the huge corner and a big move out gets the pump going. Pumpy climbing above with a last hard move before the anchors. Classic | 5.12a | 20m, 9 | |||
21 | Buffet Royal P2 | 5.13c | 40m, 23 | |||
22 | ★★★ Spicy Elephant P1 | 5.12c | 27m, 14 | |||
23 |
★★★ Spicy Elephant P2
Mega pumper. One of the best for the grade in the valley! | 5.13b | 40m, 22 | |||
24 | Diamonds on the Inside | 5.13b | 42m, 22 | |||
25 |
★ Better way
Bow Valley Sport guide shows an anchor lower on this line, Runaway Lane 11d. It has been removed. | 5.12c | 27m, 7 | |||
26 | ★★★ Burn One Down P1 | 5.12c | 19m, 10 | |||
27 | Burn One Down P2 | 5.12d | 35m, 17 | |||
28 | Back and Beyond | 5.12a | 30m, 17 | |||
29 | ★ Better Way ext | 5.13b | 45m | |||
30 | ★ Bone Thief ext | 5.14a | 45m | |||
31 |
★★★ Stone Temple Pilots
The dramatic looking fin coming out of the cave ledge. The crux comes down low but the rest is no gimmie. Classic for the grade (13c to first anchor) | 5.13d | 48m | |||
32 |
★★★ Living the Dream
A steep start with powerful pulls gains a hard bulge and a rest. Recover and crank the technical crux that guards the chains. FA: Greg tos | 5.12d | 25m | |||
33 | ★ Living the Dream ext | 5.13c | 45m | |||
34 | ★★★ Romancing the Stone | 5.12d | 25m | |||
35 |
Romancing the Stone ext proj.
Romancing the Stone ext proj.(If you have climbed all the other lines on the wall you can give it a try, probably 13b or c, I might get around to it this year) Set: greg tos | |||||
36 | ★ Chicken Pot Pie | 5.12c | ||||
37 |
★★ The Divide
12a in the guide book but the route builder said it’s 12b due to it having 3 12a cruxes separates over 30ms. | 5.12b | 32m | |||
38 | ★ Skinny Love | 5.12c | 25m | |||
39 | ★ Skinny Love Ext | 5.13c | 35m |
1.2.8. Bella Vista 15 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
description
Past Atlantis wall, So far the highest and newest area in Echo Canyon. 900m above Canmore and almost endless potential.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ The Flame Turns Blue | 5.13a | 35m | |||||
2 | ★ Bad Dream | 5.12a | 35m | |||||
3 | ★★ Dream Machine | 5.11b | 37m | |||||
4 | ★★ Wet Dream | 5.11d | 20m | |||||
5 | Halloween Parade | 5.10d | 20m | |||||
6 | ★★★ Zeitgeist | 5.12d | 30m | |||||
7 | ★★ The Show Must Go On | 5.13a | 45m | |||||
8 | High Water Mark | 5.11d - 12d | 2 | |||||
9 | Dirty Basement | 5.11d | ||||||
10 | Kaylash | 5.12b | 50m | |||||
11 | ★ On The Run | 5.11d A0 | 28m | |||||
12 | ★★ Interstellar Overdrive | 5.11d | 28m | |||||
13 | ★ Comfortably Numb | 5.11c | 35m | |||||
14 | Umma Gumma | 5.11d | 25m | |||||
15 | ★★★ Sunset Theatre | 5.12a | 30m | |||||
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1.2.9. The Coliseum 41 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Rock climbing
|
1.2.9.1. Saddle-up 20 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.2.9.2. Little Wall 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Sport climbing
1.2.9.3. Pie Wagon 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Sport climbing
1.2.9.4. Tall Storey Wall 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.2.10. The Notch 35 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
1.2.10.1. Upper Notch 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
1.2.10.2. The Notch 25 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
1.2.10.3. Pocket Wall 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
1.2.11. Sunset Crag 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Freezer Burn | 5.11a | 25m | |||
2 | Clearly Confused | 5.10b | 21m | |||
3 | Clearly Confused Direct | 5.11c | 25m | |||
4 | ★★ Constant Variable | 5.10c | 20m | |||
5 | Even Odds | 5.11b | 15m | |||
6 | Only Choice | 5.10d | 15m | |||
7 | Closed Project |
1.3. Bataan 107 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.081673, -115.278451
summary
Pockets and very solid rock after the first bout or So. Very European styled and water streaked.
description
For a Crag with the same amount of time for an approach as a lot of busy others on Grotto mountain, Bataan is certainly a contender for the best limestone in the Bow Valley!! The quality of these water sculpted cliffs are unparalled, with positions high above the scientific valley is magnificent. Bataans vertical to slightly overhanging walls feature many long and sustained routes that are littered with pockets, jugs and edges- endurance is the name of the game. Climbers are slowly realizing the huge potential for the future there, and that the rewards of climbing on pristine blue grey and yellow streaks far outweigh the hike up and crowds.
access issues
Walk around the mining scar! Do not go onto it- as it is private land.
approach
50 mins to first cave 1.20 to Pacific Theatre.
where to stay
Canmore Banff YYC
ethic
Rockie mountain climbing.
history
A lot! First bolted in 1991 this is a crag with deep Roots in B.Valley climbing.
1.3.1. The First Cave 19 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.080944, -115.282649
summary
The first chossy looking area. Worth a warm up up or two
access issues
Very steep to belay. Not ideal
approach
50mins
where to stay
Yyc Banff Canmore
history
Roger Chayer and the Perry lads.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Near Miss | 5.10a | 23m | |||
2 |
★★★ Solar Power
This quality lines tackles a Blunt arête. Climb Free Energy to the sixth bolt (use a long sling) and trend left to the base of the arête. Good grips with poor foot holds characterize the difficulties. FA: Ian & Chris Perry, 2004 | 5.12b | 22m, 13 | |||
3 | ★★ Free Energy | 5.11c | 24m | |||
4 | ★★ Photo Finish | 5.11b | 27m | |||
5 |
★★ A Kodak Moment
A link up. Traverses right at the third to last bolt just above a small roof. Clip one bolt before finishing on Hanging By The Moment. | 5.11b | 15 | |||
6 | ★ Hanging by the Moment | 5.12a | 30m, 13 | |||
7 | ★★ Borrowing from the Beggar | 5.11d | 30m | |||
8 | ★★ Fill'er Up With Jesus | 5.11d | 29m | |||
9 |
The Divide
Set: Ian & Chris Perry, 2007 | 5.12a | 30m, 14 | |||
10 | ★★ Shear Stress | 5.11b | 29m | |||
11 | ★★ GRIP Profile | 5.11d | 27m | |||
12 |
★★ The Kinematic Wave
Steep climbing on jugs leads to sustained moves on positive edges. Absolute classic FA: Ian & Chris Perry, 2003 | 5.11d | 27m, 13 | |||
13 |
Project M
Right hand finish of Kinematic Wave. | |||||
14 |
★★★ Heart Attack
Closed Project left of Humble heart. Absolutely beautiful looking face climbing up the stunning streak | 5.12d | ||||
15 | ★★ Bob's Humble Heart | 5.12a | 19m, 2, 13 | |||
16 |
★★★ Bloodline
A mega classic lies here. Enjoy a parade of Jugs and buckets all the way to the anchor for 33m's. beautiful body movement, technical and one of the best for the grade in the valley. | 5.11a | 33m, 13 | |||
17 |
★★★ Closed proj
Right hand finish of Bloodline. | |||||
18 | ★★ Pulp Friction | 5.10c | ||||
19 |
★★★ Flesh Gordon
Follow a left leaning corner and slab all the way to the top of the cliff. Enjoy perfect holds in water sculpted, pocketed rock. | 5.10a | 41m, 2, 14 |
1.3.2. The Sweet Hereafter 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.081743, -115.281500
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Fingers in a Blender | 5.10a | 26m, 10 | |||
2 | ★★ Jaws | 5.10b | 28m | |||
3 | Fresco | 5.11c | 28m | |||
4 | ★ Too Little, Too Late | 5.12a | 26m | |||
5 | ★ Culture of Fear | 5.12a | 28m, 13 | |||
6 | ★★ Fear of the Hereafter | 5.11c | 31m | |||
7 | ★★★ The Sweet Hereafter | 5.12a | 30m | |||
8 | ★★ With or Without You | 5.12b | 30m | |||
9 | ★★ Faraway, So Close | 5.11d | 30m | |||
10 | ★★ The Filth and the Fury | 5.11d | 30m | |||
11 | Project I | |||||
12 | Project A | |||||
13 | ★ Dirty Book | 5.10a | ||||
14 | Project C |
1.3.3. The Slab 17 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.082222, -115.280187
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Give the People What They Want | 5.12b | 15m | |||
2 | ★ The Candy Man | 5.11a | 10m | |||
3 | ★★ Beat the Clock | 5.11d | 15m | |||
4 | ★★ Scruples | 5.11c | ||||
5 | ★★ Crushed Velvet P1 | 5.12a | 17m | |||
6 | ★★ Crushed Velvet P2 | 5.12d | 30m, 2 | |||
7 | ★★ Exit Planet Dust P1 | 5.11b | ||||
8 | Exit Planet Dust P2 | 5.12c | ||||
9 | ★★ The Arch | 5.12d | 30m | |||
10 | ★★ Heavy Breathing | 5.12b | 23m | |||
11 |
★★★ Crank Call
From the Heavy Breathing hueco, climb rightward into a small, right facing corner. Finish with some classic Velcro climbing. A fantastic route! FA: Jon Jones | 5.11d | ||||
12 | ★★★ September Eleven | 5.12c | ||||
13 | ★★ Beuna Vista Social Club | 5.11c | ||||
14 | ★★ The Way of All Flesh | 5.12b | ||||
15 | ★★ Post Apocalyptic Wasteland | 5.12b | ||||
16 | ★ Jive Turkey Direct | |||||
17 | Abandoned Project F |
1.3.4. The Cheese Grater 17 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.083467, -115.278351
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Vicious | 5.11c | ||||||
2 | ★ Chalk | 5.10c | 19m | |||||
3 | ★★ Cheese | 5.11d | 27m | |||||
4 | ★★ Significant Digits | 5.11b | 30m | |||||
5 | ★★ Goldfinger | 5.11c | 30m | |||||
6 | Pick Pocket | 5.12c | ||||||
7 |
★★ Picked Pocket
The extension to Pick Pocket. Technical FA: Derek Galloway | 5.12d | 28m | |||||
8 | ★★ Critical Path | 5.11c | 16m | |||||
9 | ★ Monkey Business | 5.11a | ||||||
10 |
Project G
The extension to monkey business. Looks worth doing!! | 5.12 | ||||||
11 |
★★★ Some Like It Hot
The right most line of The Cheese Grater. Excellent technical climbing on pockets and side pulls, with a steeper finish!! Classic FA: Jon jones | 5.11a | 28m, 12 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
12 | ★★ Broken English | 5.11a | ||||||
13 | ★★ Suspended Sentence | 5.10c | ||||||
14 | ★★ Dangling Modifier | 5.11a | ||||||
15 | ★ Ghosts of Thousands | 5.10c | ||||||
16 |
★★★ Afterlife
Left of Technotronic. Amazing movement and stone. Set: Jimmy Blackhall | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Technotonic
Excellent, technical climbing with just enough spice to keep your head in the game. Beautiful Rock! FA: Derrek Galloway | 5.13b | 33m, 11 |
1.3.5. The Eyes of Bataan 19 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.084319, -115.275728
summary
The eyes of Bataan. A must see, historical area in Bow Valley Sport Climbing.
description
Beautiful, pocketed bright blue stone, high above the valley.
approach
its far.
history
Jd LeBlanc, Derrek Galloway, Simon Meis CLASSICS.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Pushing 40
A very adventurous long climb to the top of the wall. The only drawback is the bottom half and crux. The top is ultra classic on perfect blue stone. A 70m rope makes it. | 5.11b | 33m | |||||
2 | Forever Young | 5.13c | 22m | |||||
3 | ★ PH.D. Support Group | 5.12d | 24m | |||||
4 | ★★ Welcome to the Fabulous Sky Lounge | 5.12b | 29m, 12 | |||||
5 |
Pushing On The Pull Door
Climbs the short blue rock. Harder, then it looks and alot of wandery climbing. 5.11b/c. | 5.11c | 12m | |||||
6 |
★★★ NFI
FA: Jon Jones | 5.11c | 25m | |||||
7 |
★ Trigger Happy
This long fun route starts on NFI but cuts right at the first bolt. Crazy pocket pulling ends with a cruxy traverse and steep juggy climbing to the anchor. | 5.12a | 30m, 16 | |||||
8 | ★ Sharpshooter | 5.13c | ||||||
9 |
★★★ Nirvana
This light blue streak is the most striking feature at the Eyes of Baatan sector and is a must do for the grade. FA: Jd LeBlanc | 5.13a | 25m, 7 | |||||
10 |
★ Vishnu
Start on 24 frames per Second, but head right gunning for the blue streak. | 5.13b | 23m, 7 | |||||
11 |
★★★ Lakshmi
FA: Evan Hau, 2014 | 5.13c | 28m, 11 | |||||
12 |
★★ Truckasaurus
Tackle the beautiful light blue streak above 24 frames Per Second as one massive pitch. | 5.12b | 22m | |||||
13 |
★★★ 24 Frames Per Second
Start up the chossy column before powering through pockets to a right facing corner. Significantly easier climbing leads to the anchor. | 5.12d | ||||||
14 |
★★★ Open Project E
Amazing route, save that right arm! FA: Chris Weldon, 2007 | 5.13b | 20m | |||||
15 |
★★★ Jacob's Ladder
Start on ride, but power up straight up to a hard Boulder problem. | 5.13a | 16m | |||||
16 |
Ride
Start on a ledge using a high right undercling. Branch left above the first bolt and climb over a bulge. | 5.13b | 16m, 7 | |||||
17 | Project I | |||||||
18 | Project D | |||||||
19 |
★★★ Eyes Wide Shut
Thing long pumpy and exposed classic follows a blue streak that skirts the left edge of the right eye. | 5.12a | 33m |
1.3.6. The Pacific Theatre 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.084266, -115.274532
summary
Some of the best limestone in Canada. Face climbing on a perfect, gentley overhung wall.
description
This picturesque, Ceuse-resembling wall hosts some of the best limestone found In the Bow Valley. The climbing, is sequential, cryptic, technical and powerful. Strong foot work is rewarded. The rock is very grippy, perfect water-worn limestone with beautiful streaks from bottom to top of the 30m wall. Routes range from Open 5.14 project far left to shorter 18m bouldery climbs on black rock far right. The views are absolutely stunning, of a full 360 down the valley. If heaven is real, this is a small slice of it.
access issues
Its far.
approach
1.20mins.
where to stay
Bow Valley
history
Scott Milton, Roger Chayer, Todd Guyn, Derek Galloway, James Blackhall routes. Classic.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Project in Cave
Start in the back of the cave to the key of the tree. Still has a hanging rope 2018. Looks 5.13 | |||||||
2 |
Project K
Left of Freedom In Chains. Looks outstanding 514/13? | |||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
3 |
★★★ Freedom in Chains
Start on the detached block. Technical and pumpy moves weave up the beauty light blue streak. This is one of the best route for the grade in the Valley!! FA: Scott Milton, 2004 | 5.13c | 25m, 10 | |||||
4 |
★★★ Above the Clouds
Two difficult and intricate jugs are separated by a thank god jug. Absolutely amazing line!! FA: Derrek Galloway, 2006 | 5.13d | 25m, 10 | |||||
5 |
★★★ Leaning in the Wind
Start on Above The Clouds but follow the corner up a yellow streak of stunning stone, which progressively gets harder up high with the final sting in the tail the boulder problem around the anchor! Mega Classic. FA: Todd Guyn, 2003 | 5.12c | 27m, 12 | |||||
6 |
★★★ Adiós Vámonos
Starts on a ledge to the right of Leaning In The Wind, ascending the stunning yellow and black streak. Power-Tech 5.12 climbing gains a good rest, where the first crux smacks you like gale-force wind, leaving a ledge. Put your thinking cap on for this intricate line! And leave some gas in the tank for the final crux below the anchors. Named as a farewell to the route builders 7 year love affair- living in the Bow Valley. Set: Jimmy Blackhall, Nov 2018 FA: Dexter Bateman, Sep 2019 | 5.13a | 26m, 8 | |||||
7 |
★ Cartoon
Start off the ledge to the right of a chimney. A very hard Crux with a few monos leads to sustained 12a climbing. FA: Greg Dickie, 1999 | 5.12d | 23m, 9 | |||||
8 |
★★★ Dressed Up in Pearls
Start off a ledge to the right of a large chimney corner. Prepare for Crimpy and balancey climbing. Watch the anchor clip! FA: Roger Chayer, 1999 | 5.12a | 23m, 7 |
1.3.7. Tipperary 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.083968, -115.274263
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Saving Grace | 5.11c | ||||||
2 |
★★ It's a Long Long Way
Climb saving grace to the fifth bolt before launching straight up a shallow groove. Great crimpers in the overhang! | 5.12a | 23m | |||||
3 |
★★★ Thief
The direct line up the wall. Best 5.11 on this wall! Super Classic movement and stone. Abit of everything! | 5.11c | 20m | |||||
4 | ★★ Burning Desire | 5.12c | 2 | |||||
5 | ★★ Tipperary | 5.11d | 2 | |||||
6 |
★★★ Far Corner of the Earth P1
FA: Jon Jones, 2008 | 5.11d | 23m, 12 | |||||
7 | ★★ Far Corner of the Earth P2 | 5.10d |
1.3.8. The Far East 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.083685, -115.273932
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Mutton Chops | 5.11a | ||||
2 | ★ Mutton Chops - Alternate Finish | 5.10c | ||||
3 | ★★ Jagged Edge | 5.10d | ||||
4 | Jagged Edge - Alternate Start | 5.10b | ||||
5 | ★ Death by a Thousand Cuts | 5.11c | ||||
6 | Walking on Broken Glass | 5.11c |
1.4. Cougar Canyon 264 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.104467, -115.302462
approach
There is a small parking area on Elk Run Blvd. From the car park walk up the creek for approximately 15 minutes.
1.4.1. Sugar Shack 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.097242, -115.316909
description
First climbing area on the right. Found at bend in the creek.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Maple Bacon | 5.10c | 9m, 6 | |||
2 | Agave Nectar | 5.10c | 7m, 4 | |||
3 | Sour Worms | 5.11a | 7m, 6 | |||
4 | Honey Bee | 5.12a | 7m, 5 | |||
5 | Tap it! | 5.11a | 6m, 3 |
1.4.2. House of Cards 30 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.098326, -115.315764
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Rock 201 | 5.8 | 7m, 2 | |||
2 | Empty Nest | 5.9 | 7m, 2 | |||
3 | Rock 301 | 5.10b | 6m, 2 | |||
4 | Rock 401 | 5.10c | 6m, 1 | |||
5 | ★ Dreamcatcher in a Rusted Malibu | 5.8 | 9m, 5 | |||
6 | ★★ Kim and Murray | 5.8 | 9m, 5 | |||
7 | Innuendo | 5.10a | 9m, 3 | |||
8 | Fly by Wire | 5.10d | 9m, 4 | |||
9 |
★★ Freebird
Starts right of the big corner. | 5.8 | 26m, 8 | |||
10 | Freebird P2 | 5.8 | 13m, 4 | |||
11 |
★★ SPF
FA: John Martin, 1999 | 5.10a | 39m, 2, 12 | |||
12 | Solarium | 5.10a | 43m | |||
13 |
★ Aqualung
FA: John Martin, 1990 | 5.9 | 42m, 15 | |||
14 |
★★ Slowpoke
Climb up the slab to the right of the brown streak to a high anchor. FA: John Martin, 1998 | 5.8 | 30m, 13 | |||
15 | Fidget | 5.10c | 15m | |||
16 |
★★ Talamasca
Superb varied long climbing. One of best for grade in the Valley FA: John Martin, 1995 | 5.10c | 43m, 18 | |||
17 |
★ Sun Dogs.
Great face climbing with a couple of slab moves. | 5.10c | 25m | |||
18 | ★★ Ashtaroth. | 5.11a | 25m | |||
19 | ★★ Ashtarotha P2 | 5.11a | 18m | |||
20 |
Painted Smile
Pitch 1 of Shangri-La | 5.10d | 23m, 11 | |||
21 | ★★★ Shangri-La | 5.11b | 44m, 19 | |||
22 | ★ Is That Your Dog? | 5.11b | 25m | |||
23 | Heliopolis. | 5.11b | 29m, 15 | |||
24 | ★★ Heliopolis | 5.11b | 30m | |||
25 | ★★ Byzantium. | 5.10c | 25m | |||
26 |
★ Redline
Second route to the right of the large tree. Red hangers. Set: John Martin, 2002 | 5.10d | 28m, 13 | |||
27 | ★★ Londinium. | 5.10c | 33m | |||
28 | ★★ Sailing to Sarantium. | 5.10d | 30m | |||
29 | ★ I heard a Ga-Zump | 5.10c | 20m | |||
30 | ★★ Revenge of the Luddite | 5.10a | 18m |
1.4.3. Casino Crag 22 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.098132, -115.315453
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Straw Dogs | 5.11c | 11m, 10 | |||
2 |
★ Wild Card
Joins up with Long Shot at the third bolt. FA: John Martin, 2006 | 5.10a | 9m, 4 | |||
3 |
★ Long Shot
FA: Ian Perry, 2004 | 5.10c | 9m, 4 | |||
4 | ★ Black Jack | 5.10a | 10m, 3 | |||
5 |
★ Luxor
FA: John Martin, 2009 | 5.10a | 33m, 14 | |||
6 |
★★ King of Clubs
FA: Chris Perry, 2004 | 5.10a | 31m, 10 | |||
7 | ★★ Ace of Spades | 5.11a | 30m | |||
8 | ★ Aces High | 5.10d | 30m | |||
9 | ★★ Full House | 5.10b | 30m | |||
10 |
★ Loaded Dice
Heads left out of Snake Eyes at the 7th bolt. | 5.10c | 31m, 14 | |||
11 | ★★ Snake Eyes | 5.10c | 30m | |||
12 |
★★ Poker Face
FA: Chris Perry, 2002 | 5.10a | 30m, 12 | |||
13 | ★ Conspiracy Theory | 5.10c | 23m, 9 | |||
14 |
★★ Lucky for Some
FA: Chris Perry, 2015 | 5.11c | 30m, 17 | |||
15 |
★★ Black Slabbath
FA: Patrick Delaney, 2005 | 5.11a | 15m, 7 | |||
16 |
Click Click Boom
FA: John Martin, 2008 | 5.10b | 14m, 7 | |||
17 |
★★ Straight Flush
FA: John Martin, 2006 | 5.10b | 13m, 5 | |||
18 |
★ Flush
FA: John Martin, 2006 | 5.9 | 13m, 5 | |||
19 | ★ Wilma | 5.10a | 14m, 5 | |||
20 | ★ Bam Bam Got His Funk | 5.9 | 11m, 6 | |||
21 | ★ Fred | 5.9 | 11m, 5 | |||
22 | ★★ Pebbles Has Her Groove | 5.7 | 11m, 4 |
1.4.4. Cat's Eye Wall 31 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.098790, -115.314303
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ A Dusting of Schmaltz | 5.10b | 17m, 7 | |||||
2 | ★ Catspaw Direct. | 5.10a | 20m, 6 | |||||
3 | ★ Cat's Paw | 5.10a | 20m, 5 | |||||
4 |
★★ Catseye
Retro bolting has added another clip on the small roof at about half height, making the lead a little more enjoyable. | 5.10b | 22m, 8 | |||||
5 | ★★ Dr. Tongue's 3D | 5.11c | 25m, 7 | |||||
6 | ★★ Double Play | 5.10d | 24m, 6 | |||||
7 | ★★ Double Header. | 5.10a | 25m, 8 | |||||
8 | ★ Coconut Joe | 5.11a | 26m, 9 | |||||
9 | ★★ Banana Replublic. | 5.10a | 20m, 6 | |||||
10 | Banana Republic alt. start | |||||||
11 | Ephemera | 5.11b | 25m, 9 | |||||
12 | ★ Iguana Moon Trek. | 5.10a | 18m, 7 | |||||
|
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
13 | ★ Rough Trade | 5.11b | 20m, 7 | |||||
14 | Virtual Light | 5.10a | 9m, 2 | |||||
15 | ★★ Lapidarist | 5.10c | 10m, 3 | |||||
16 | Impulse. | {UK} YDS:5.10a | 10m, 3 | |||||
17 | ★★ Swan Lake | 5.10a | 21m, 7 | |||||
18 | ★★ Dressed to Kill. | 5.11b | 22m, 7 | |||||
19 |
★★★ Incantation / Repulse
Starts at the left end of the halfway ledge. Some loose rock between the 2nd and 3rd bolts, followed by mostly excellent rock to the top of the route. Set: John Martin, 2000 | 5.11c | 32m, 11 | |||||
20 | ★★★ Wilt | 5.11c | 26m, 9 | |||||
21 | Moon over Miami | 5.11c | 26m, 10 | |||||
22 |
★ Burning Chrome
FA: John Martin | 5.9 | 28m, 7 | |||||
23 | Altered States | 5.11b | 23m, 9 | |||||
24 | Ancient Life | 5.11d | 13m, 5 | |||||
25 | ★★ Dead Dog Cafe | 5.9 | 30m | |||||
26 | Tennessee Plates | 5.10a | 30m, 11 | |||||
27 | Idoru | 5.11b | 27m, 10 | |||||
28 | Count Zero | 5.10b | 23m, 7 | |||||
29 | Whiplash | 5.10c | 20m, 4 | |||||
30 | Neuromancer | 5.10a | 25m, 7 | |||||
31 | Mona Lisa Overdrive | 5.10c | 25m, 7 |
1.4.5. Chameleon. 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.098499, -115.314250
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ The Truth is out There. | 5.9 | 15m, 4 | |||
2 | Back to the Future. | 5.9 | 16m, 4 | |||
3 | ★ Call of the Wild. | 5.10a | 20m, 6 | |||
4 | ★ Dry Heat. | 5.10a | 18m | |||
5 | ★★★ Thrushold | 5.10d | 21m, 7 | |||
6 | Trushold to Direct. | 5.10d | 21m, 7 | |||
7 | ★★ Lounge Lizard. | 5.11b | 21m, 8 | |||
8 | ★★ Chameleon | 5.10c | 21m, 5 | |||
9 |
★★ A Cold Shoulder
Start off on a small ledge into a blocky spine, bust a body positional boulder problem on directional holds to a slabby finish. Short. Set: John Martin, 2003 | 5.11a | 9m, 5 | |||
10 | ★★★ Orange Crush | 5.10b | 17m, 6 | |||
11 | ★★ Long Time No See | 5.11a | 18m, 8 | |||
12 | ★ Zona Rosa | 5.10d | 18m, 6 | |||
13 | ★★ Faux Pas | 5.11b | 19m, 6 | |||
14 | ★ Ten Years After. | 5.10c | 19m, 6 |
1.4.6. Crowbar Wall 22 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Depth Charge | 5.11b | 8m, 3 | |||||
2 | Diphtheria | 5.10b | 8m, 2 | |||||
3 | ★★ Terminal Velocity. | 5.11a | 14m | |||||
4 | ★ Blockhead | 5.9 | 11m, 3 | |||||
5 | ★★ Block Buster. | 5.11a | 18m | |||||
6 | Doppler Effect | 5.11c | 15m, 5 | |||||
7 | ★ Shockwave | 5.10d | 20m | |||||
8 |
★★★ Surface Tension.
One of the best for grade in the valley. | 5.11a | 22m | |||||
9 |
★★★ Critical Mass
Everyone knows this one. The best 10C in the Bow Valley. Enjoy varied climbing on jugs, crimps and side pulls to a pumpy finish and a funky move. Absolutely classic FA: John Martin, 1990 | 5.10c | 22m, 7 | |||||
10 | Fresh Start | 5.11d | 23m, 8 | |||||
11 | ★★ Suzie Q | 5.11c | 13m, 5 | |||||
12 | Island Experience | 5.11a | 25m, 8 | |||||
13 |
★ Islands in the Stream
Polished start, Traverse the ledge with the odd face limb traversing move. Sketchy climb and best cleaned on top rope FA: John Martin, 1989 | 5.9 | 27m, 7 | |||||
14 |
Face Value
FA: John Martin, 1989 | 5.10b | 33m, 12 | |||||
15 | Mean Street | 5.11a | 33m, 10 | |||||
16 |
Argon
FA: John Martin, 1989 | 5.10a | 33m, 12 | |||||
17 | Supernatural | 5.11b | 27m, 10 | |||||
18 | Supernatural Direct | 5.10b | 30m, 10 | |||||
19 | Jack of Clubs. | 5.10b | 21m, 8 | |||||
20 | Sleeping Dogs. | 5.10a | 27m, 6 | |||||
21 | ★★ Slow Turning. | 5.10a | 27m, 5 | |||||
22 | The Devil You Know | 5.10a | 25m, 8 |
1.4.7. Made in the Shade 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Cry Baby | 5.10a | 10m, 3 | |||
2 | Tree Men | 5.11a | 9m, 3 | |||
3 | French Connection | 5.11d | 9m, 2 | |||
4 | Clip Joint | 5.11c | 10m, 3 | |||
5 | Crash Course | 5.10b | 10m, 1 | |||
6 | ★★ The Gloaming | 5.10c | 22m, 9 | |||
7 | ★ Made in the Shade | 5.10c | 33m, 11 | |||
8 | Shady Lady. | 5.11b | 31m | |||
9 | Tender Mercies | 5.11a | 30m, 13 | |||
10 |
★★ Shadow of Turning
Starts in the cool finger crack. An adventurous climb! Great for the grade. FA: John Martin, 1990 | 5.9 | 22m, 7 | |||
11 | ★★★ High Wire | 5.10d | 20m | |||
12 |
★★ Skyjack
FA: Geoff Powter, 1993 | 5.11b | 22m, 9 | |||
13 |
★★★ Pin-toe Flakes
Classic! FA: Kim Heidel, 2000 | 5.10c | 19m, 6 | |||
14 |
★★★ Kokopelli
Climb the left facing flake system. With a few powerful moves FA: Nathan Cando, 2003 | 5.11a | 11m, 5 |
1.4.8. Mondo Beyondo 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Mondo Beyondo | 5.11a | 16m, 6 | |||
2 | ★ Little Feat | 5.11a | 15m, 6 | |||
3 | Short Haul | 5.10d | 10m, 3 |
1.4.9. Buffle Head 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Bufflehead | 5.10a | 9m, 3 | |||
2 | Bafflegab | 5.10b | 9m, 4 | |||
3 | Baby Steps | 5.10c | 9m, 5 |
1.4.10. Poolside 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.100190, -115.310406
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ The Diving Board | 5.10d | 11m, 3 | |||
2 | ★ Poolside Pleasures | 5.10d | 13m, 4 | |||
3 | ★★ Party Line | 5.10d | 13m, 5 | |||
4 | ★ Bob's Yer Uncle | 5.10c | 14m, 5 | |||
5 | ★ Bob's Direct. | 5.11b | 16m | |||
6 | Dark Star | 5.11d | 16m, 7 | |||
7 | ★ Chandelle | 5.12a | 10m, 3 | |||
8 | Stygian Ayre | 5.13a | 9m, 4 |
1.4.11. Hillside Crag 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Bronco | 5.11a | 12m, 5 | |||
2 | Strength in Numbers | 5.12a | 12m, 7 | |||
3 | Plastic Surgery Disaster | 5.11b | 11m, 7 | |||
4 | Pearl | 5.11b | 15m, 7 | |||
5 | ★ Slimper | 5.10c | 15m, 7 |
1.4.12. Covert Crag 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
summary
A great place to stop if you life technical face climbing!
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Cloak and Dagger | 5.10c | 19m | |||
2 | ★★ Under Cover | 5.10b | 20m | |||
3 | ★★ Covert Action | 5.10b | 22m | |||
4 | ★★★ Cover-up | 5.10d | 23m | |||
5 | ★★ Deep Cover | 5.10b | 19m |
1.4.13. Catamount 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Rising Collateral
Short and pumpy route going through the powerful overhanging corner. | 5.12b | 6m, 4 | |||
2 | ★★ Catatonic | 5.12c | 10m, 6 | |||
3 | Vagatonic | 5.12d | 17m, 9 | |||
4 | ★ Law and Order | 5.10b | 21m, 4 | |||
5 | Rainy Day | 5.9 | 15m, 6 | |||
6 | ★★ Open Season | 5.9 | 15m, 4 | |||
7 | Abilene | 5.9 | 17m, 5 | |||
8 | Cabin Fever | 5.10b | 18m, 5 | |||
9 |
★ Catamount
"Start just right of a tree growing off a ledge. Low crux with perfect edge followed by easier climbing to a roof and exciting finish." - BVW | 5.10a | 15m, 5 | |||
10 | Chisum Trail | 5.9 | 25m, 5 |
1.4.14. Heatwave 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Heatwave | 5.10c | 13m, 5 | |||
2 | ★ Global Warming | 5.10a | 14m, 4 | |||
3 | Cold Snap | 5.10b | 11m, 4 | |||
4 | ★ Hot to Trot | 5.10c | 11m, 4 | |||
5 | Enthalpy | 5.10a | 11m, 4 |
1.4.15. Cosmology Crag 22 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Outer Limits | 5.12a | 25m | |||
2 | ★★ Neutronium | 5.11a | 27m, 12 | |||
3 | ★ Navigator | 5.9 | 14m | |||
4 | Nine to Five | 5.10b | 14m, 6 | |||
5 | Cat and Mouse | 5.10c | 14m, 5 | |||
6 | Archaos | 5.10d | 22m, 9 | |||
7 | Honeymoon Suite | 5.10c | 22m, 11 | |||
8 | ★★ Big Bang Theory | 5.10b | 25m, 11 | |||
9 | ★★ Event Horizon | 5.11a | 23m, 10 | |||
10 | ★ Redshift | 5.10b | 22m | |||
11 | ★ Indigo | 5.10d | 22m | |||
12 | Lucille | 5.11a | 28m, 12 | |||
13 | History of Time | 5.10c | 22m | |||
14 | ★★ Timescape | 5.9 | 24m | |||
15 | ★ Milk Run | 5.7 | 17m, 6 | |||
16 |
★ Cosmic String
FA: John Martin, 1989 | 5.8 | 35m, 13 | |||
17 | ★★★ Prime Cut | 5.10d | 35m | |||
18 | ★ Dead Heat | 5.10b | 10m | |||
19 |
★★ Octavius & His Magic Trumpet
FA: Jeff Relph, 2002 | 5.10a | 18m, 9 | |||
20 |
★ Gaia
FA: John Martin, 1994 | 5.9 | 30m, 9 | |||
21 |
★★ Entropy
FA: John Martin, 1992 | 5.10a | 30m, 8 | |||
22 | Dr Gage's Meat Inspection | 5.10d | 18m, 5 |
1.4.16. The Caribbean 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Trinidad
FA: John Martin, 1991 | 5.11b | 28m, 12 | |||
2 |
Gin and Juice
FA: Jeff Relph, 2002 | 5.11a | 28m, 11 | |||
3 |
Echelon
FA: John Martin, 2015 | 5.9 | 18m, 6 | |||
4 |
Back in Black
FA: John Martin, 2015 | 5.9 | 18m, 6 | |||
5 |
Constant Velocity
FA: John Martin, 2015 | 5.10a | 17m, 6 | |||
6 |
Brood
FA: John Martin, 2015 | 5.10b | 16m, 5 |
1.4.17. Cavern Crag 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Natural Selection | 5.11c | 12m, 6 | |||
2 | Evolution | 5.10b | 13m, 5 |
1.4.18. La Playa Negra 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | The Nomadic Struggle | 5.10d | 10m, 4 | |||
2 | Prisoners of the Sun | 5.10a | 10m, 4 |
1.4.19. Canadian Forks 16 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.110157, -115.292135
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Prima Donna | 5.10d | 12m, 4 | |||
2 | Diva | 5.10d | 13m, 4 | |||
3 | Broken Chord | 5.9 | 15m, 4 | |||
4 | ★★ Stepping Razor | 5.10b | 20m, 8 | |||
5 | Danse Macabre | 5.11a | 10m, 3 | |||
6 | ★★★ Spite | 5.11a | 23m, 9 | |||
7 | Elixir | 5.11d | 14m, 6 | |||
8 | ★★ Phlogiston | 5.11c | 14m, 7 | |||
9 | ★ Free Lunch | 5.10d | 19m, 5 | |||
10 | Lean Cuisine | 5.11b | 19m, 6 | |||
11 | Some Can Whistle | 5.10c | 23m, 8 | |||
12 | ★ Whistlestop | 5.10a | 23m, 7 | |||
13 | Some Can Dance | 5.10d | 15m, 5 | |||
14 | Carioca | 5.10a | 15m, 5 | |||
15 | ★ Hidden Agenda | 5.10a | 20m, 7 | |||
16 | ★ Ricochet | 5.9 | 20m, 9 |
1.4.20. Planet X 22 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.108544, -115.289768
summary
Long, pumper fest climbing up billet limestone. Some of the best climbing in Canada; up sensational features, with relentless boulder problems can be found on this wordclass wall.
description
Do you like relentless, powerful, technical, knee bar heaven, bomber yellow and grey limestone?? Then get your butt down to Planet X. The hike sucks watching your feet for 50minutes but the climbing rainy makes up for it (at least the hike is flat). There’s a reason why Ondra, Megos and Trotter have climbed here a plenty.
access issues
None. It’s just sucks the hike
approach
Totally sucks. Bring a Funny friend so you can laugh a bunch to make it nicer.
where to stay
Canmore Yyc
ethic
Don’t be a Dick. Be a friend
history
Derek Galloway, Simon Meis, Scott Milton, Matt Pieterson, Keith Haberl, Sonnie Trotter, Todd Guyn, Evan Hau and Gery Unterasinger classics.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Iron Butterfly
Extremely sustained, bouldery moveslwad through the grey bulge. When your feet are firmly planted on the top, breathe a sigh of relief. Set: Derek Galloway FA: Alex Megos, 30 Jul 2016 | 5.14d | ||||||
2 |
★★ Cobalt Gecko
New one on the left side. FA: Evan Hau | 5.14c | ||||||
3 |
★ John Doe
This is a difficult to read route. Start in front of joke and try and keep the pump at bay whilst unlocking cryptic sequences. FA: Unknown | 5.12b | 14m, 6 | |||||
4 |
John Doe's Space Adventure
Extension to "John Doe". Set: Evan Hau, 2020 FFA: Evan Hau, Sep 2023 | 5.14d | ||||||
5 |
★★★ Hot Fudge Cream Puff
Continue above John Doe. A bouldery sequence is followed by easier yet sustained climbing. Spectacular!! Set: Jay Audenart FA: Evan Hau | 5.14a | 35m, 19 | |||||
6 |
★★ Embrace the Pain
Veer left from kurrgo into the steep corner. The climbing gets increasingly difficult the higher you get. A boulder problem guards the anchor! Set: gerry Unterasinger FA: Evan Hau | 5.13d | 33m, 16 | |||||
7 |
★★★ Kurrgo
This stunning line tackles the steepest part of the wall. From the midway break, a grey streak leads to an incredible crux. From here it’s hard all the way to the chains. Set: Scott Milton FA: Derek Galloway | 5.14a | 34m, 16 | |||||
8 |
★★★ Fudge Packer
This power-endurance test piece gives most a real run for their money. A 12b start gains the midway break. Two cruxes separates by a poor excuse for a rest is followed by a race to the chains. Set: Gery Unterasinger & Derek Galloway FA: Scott Milton | 5.13d | 32m, 18 | |||||
9 |
★★★ Shooting Star
The most sought after route on the wall and 12d in Alberta. This pumpfest has no stopper moves but is continually hard and tests endurance. Climb a right facing corner to the mid break (11a/b). Launch up the overhanging wall with no hesitation. FA: Keith Haberl | 5.12d | 32m | |||||
10 |
★★★ Shooting Packer
This is the must do link up - combining the pumpy start of Shooting Star with the amazing bulge on Fudge Packer. Very popular FA: Matt Pieterson | 5.13b | 35m, 18 | |||||
11 | Cosmos | 5.13c | 30m | |||||
12 | ★★ Sticky Buns | 5.13a | 26m | |||||
13 |
★ Moon Boots
Climb grey streaks. Trend right over a small roof to anchors at the midway break. | 5.11b | 14m, 6 | |||||
14 |
★★ The Illusionist
Start just left of a skinny knee high tree stump. The business hits above the midway break. Sustained climbing leads to a powerful sequence that surmounts the massive roof on holds you’ll wish were better. Climb the first half of The Illusionist to the midway break and finish on Moon abouts for a technical 11C. Set: Gery Unterasinger FA: Sonnie Trotter | 5.14a | 27m, 13 | |||||
15 |
★★★ The Prestige
Easy Climbing leads to an increasingly difficult boulder problem, which is followed by an amazing roof encounter. | 5.14c | 26m, 13 | |||||
16 |
★★ First Light
Climb carefully to a no hands rest on a ledge. Trend left via sustained moves on cool holds to a bouldery Crux. | 5.12b | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
17 |
★★ Before Dark
Climb first light to the ledge. Continue straight up via steep jugs and a very long move to a more technical finish. When dry this route makes a great warm up! | 5.11c | 21m, 11 | |||||
18 | After Dark | 5.12c | 43m | |||||
19 | The Hot Gates | 5.13a | 35m | |||||
20 |
★★★ Timber
Climb the Hot Gates to the rest and continue straight up. The pump builds continually untill the anchor is clipped. Set: Simon Meis FA: Derek Galloway | 5.13a | 35m, 17 | |||||
21 |
★ Tickle my Fritter
New one- Inbtween Timber and Meconium FA: Simon Meis | 5.12a | 30m | |||||
22 |
★★★ Meconium
This excellent long route has a bit of everything. A few crux bulges, gains Technical climbing through the middle which ends at a break. Super fun jugs is followed by steep climbing up the blue streak above. FA: Derek Galloway, 2005 | 5.12a | 35m, 16 |
1.4.21. Creekside Crag 15 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Hockey Night in Canada | 5.8 | 13m, 4 | |||
2 | Strandline | 5.10b | 12m, 3 | |||
3 | Dynosoar | 5.11b | 12m, 3 | |||
4 | Stone Cold | 5.10c | 15m, 5 | |||
5 | Some Like it Hot | 5.11a | 12m, 5 | |||
6 | Tilt | 5.11b | 13m, 6 | |||
7 | ★★ Withering Heights | 5.11b | 13m, 6 | |||
8 | Arcana | 5.10d | 11m, 4 | |||
9 | Lunch Rambo Style | 5.10b | 11m, 3 | |||
10 | Cafe Rambo | 5.10b | 13m, 4 | |||
11 | Lysdexia | 5.10c | 14m, 3 | |||
12 | When Worlds Collide | 5.10c | 13m, 4 | |||
13 | Gondwanaland | 5.10b | 13m, 4 | |||
14 | Continentlal Drift | 5.10b | 13m, 4 | |||
15 | Burmese | 5.10a | 15m, 3 |
1.4.22. Krabi Crag 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Ray of Thailand | 5.10b | ||||
2 | Red Shirt in the Thai | 5.11b |
1.5. Grassi Lakes 103 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.072070, -115.407574
1.5.1. The Ghetto 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.071261, -115.409514
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ Raw | 5.12a | 16m, 8 | |||
2 | ★★ Lush | 5.12a | 22m | |||
3 | ★★ Touch | 5.11b | 25m | |||
4 | ★★ Coming Through Slaughter | 5.11d | 25m | |||
5 | ★★ Radio Flyer | 5.12a | 27m | |||
6 |
★★ Voice of Fire
First pitch is 10/D. Bouldery moves out the left side of the bulge lead to a rest in a scoop before the anchor. | 5.12a | 23m, 2, 11 | |||
7 |
★★ Le Nettoyeur
First pitch is 10.C/D climbing through two rotten pods with a sequencey crux. Bouldery moves lead out to the right of the second pitch of a bulge to a rest in the scoop with pumpy climbing to the anchors! | 5.12b | 27m, 2, 10 |
1.5.2. The Rectory 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.071434, -115.409045
summary
Pockets and nice flat holds. The angle of the wall makes for a pumpfest!
description
Engaging powerful climbing with a tiny approach. Always a good time.
access issues
Watch for critters
approach
10mins down from Parking
where to stay
Canmore
ethic
Chill. If you are a tourist, don’t be a dick.
history
Roger Chayer, PA, Francious Berg classics
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Two Different Worlds
The far left route of Rectory, that climbs through the blank looking high quality rock. A hard Boulder problem at bolt 2 gives way to easier climbing above. | 5.12b | 11m, 5 | |||||
2 | ★★ Soft Machine | 5.11c | 15m | |||||
3 |
★★ Blood of Eden
Used to be one of Grassi's best. Sadly, many years of polish has made the crux (last two bolts) really really slippery. No ifs or buts, she's polished. Awesome jugs and crimps get you to a short rest before the crux, begin a battle on powerful sidepulls and gastons. | 5.12a | 15m | |||||
4 |
★★ Cool Sensations
A few big holds and cool pockets get you off the ground before a thin and desperate Crux gains some pods. Shake out well before tackling the rest of this pumpy route. FA: Roger Chayer | 5.12a | 16m, 10 | |||||
5 |
★★ Blunt
Climb cool sensations to the third bolt and traverse right to good pockets. Tackle the roof before gaining a good shake and a mad dash for the anchors. FA: Roger Chayer, 1996 | 5.12a | 16m, 8 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 | ★ Blunt Direct | 5.12b | 20m | |||||
7 | The Gimp | 5.12d | 25m | |||||
8 |
★★ Resilience
The Grassi lakes test piece a v8 Boulder problem. Set: Jd LeBlanc FA: Francious Berg | 5.13c | 25m | |||||
9 | ★ Full Tilt | 5.12d | 25m | |||||
10 | ★ Nice Try | 5.12d | 25m | |||||
11 | ★★ Massive Attack | 5.12c | 20m | |||||
12 | ★★★ Fuel | 5.12c | 20m |
1.5.3. White Imperialist Area 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.071458, -115.408500
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Carom
Steep climbing for 10.B is always a blast. Enjoy the v0-v1 bouldery start to fun varied climbing. | 5.10b | 18m, 7 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
★ Pink Flamingos
First pitch is 5.9 to the mid way anchors. Steeper 5.10 business lies above FA: John Martin, 1997 | 5.10c | 25m, 2, 8 | |||||
3 |
★★ White Imperialist
A techy slab with sloped holds gains some beauty pockets on great stone under the roof. Crank the roof on buckets to a fun finish. FA: Jon Martin, 1994 | 5.10d | 15m, 6 | |||||
4 | ★★ Yellow Peril | 5.10b | 15m, 7 | |||||
5 |
★ Golden Horde
FA: John Martin, 1994 | 5.10a | 15m, 6 | |||||
6 |
★ Red Menace
FA: Joe Buszowski, 1986 | 5.10c | 15m, 5 | |||||
7 |
★★ Dark Design
Follow a bolt line left of a right facing corner. From the ledge continue up solid stone to a sinker mono which is the crux. Nice face climbing FA: John Martin, 1995 | 5.10b | 15m, 6 | |||||
8 |
Gizmo
FA: John Martin, 1995 | 5.8 | 12m, 5 | |||||
9 |
★ Johnny Mnemonic
FA: John Martin, 1995 | 5.10a | 19m, 7 | |||||
10 |
★ Lawyers, Guns and Money
FA: Chris Miller, 1999 | 5.9 | 15m, 6 | |||||
11 | ★ Spin | 5.10b | 14m, 6 | |||||
12 | ★ Rhymes with Orange | 5.10c | 15m, 5 | |||||
13 |
★ Bubble Theory
A v1 Boulder problem to begin into a cool pocketed roof crux. | 5.10c | 10m, 4 | |||||
14 | Homer Downs A Duff | 5.7 |
1.5.4. White Imperialist, Right 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.071593, -115.408262
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ A Bold New Plan
Doesn't get much better. Climb the striking arete's face on pocketed jugs with a cool flake feature through the middle. Good rests dictate the pump on the steep! Starts with a stick clip and a seriously fun Boulder problem down low. Absolutely classic FA: Sean Elliott, 1997 | 5.11a | 20m, 8 | |||||
2 |
★★ A Bold New Plan Direct Start
Up the ante to a Boulder problem which leads directly into the classic A Bold New Plan. | 5.12a | 19m, 7 | |||||
3 |
★★ Send berries
The continuation of A Bold New Plan | 5.12a | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
4 |
★★★ No Tickee No Laundry
Traverse the lip with a hard boulder problem on fingery holds. The steep redpoint Crux gains a pretty wild position! FA: Peter Arbic | 5.12c | ||||||
5 |
★★★ Chinatown Left
An excellent sequential steep climb up the wave. Starts as Dance me outside but trends left straight away into a boulder then a good rest. Fire the steep upside down section to the anchor over the lip. Very good quality for Grassi! FA: Peter Arbic | 5.12a | 15m, 7 | |||||
6 | Chinatown Right | 5.12b | 14m, 8 | |||||
7 |
★★★ Dance Me Outside
One of the steepest at Grassi. Follow the right trending crack on new (2015) fixed draws. Crux is where the lower crack gains the upper. The last redpoint crux is a heart breaker dictated by the pump. Enjoy FA: Peter Arbic, 1997 | 5.12a | 20m, 10 |
1.5.5. The Golf Course 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.071804, -115.407833
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Tiger | 5.5 | 14m, 6 | |||||
2 | ★ Elk Don't Golf | 5.5 | 15m, 6 | |||||
3 | ★ I'd Rather Be Golfing | 5.5 | 17m, 6 | |||||
4 | ★ unknown | 5.6 | 8 | |||||
5 | ★ Hole in One | 5.7 | 22m, 9 | |||||
6 | ★ Birdie | 5.6 | 23m, 8 | |||||
7 | ★ Chip Shot | 5.6 | 8 |
1.5.6. Meathooks Area 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.072064, -115.407502
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Buckets from Hell / Choss Toss
Furtherest left route. Short but packs an absolte punch. Watch the pockets get small on the traverse to 4th bolt. Same as meathooks but with a crux down lower. | 5.10d | 10m | |||||
2 |
★★ Meathooks
One of the most sort after 11's in the Bow Valley. Every hold is a jug with a few sequences gaining the lip and exiting it (crux). Ridiculously fun and pumpy! FA: Daren Tremaine, 1994 | 5.11a | 20m, 7 | |||||
3 |
★★ Stormtroopers in Drag
A crimper-jug start followed with some of the biggest buckets imaginable. Big moves and body position will dictate success on the final lip. Crank it!! A step up from meathooks for sure. | 5.11b | 20m | |||||
4 |
★★ Holey Shit
Climb the biggest buckets to a funky low powerful move over the bulge. A huge middle rest gets you prepared for an epic fight through sequential jugs over the steepest part. A big move gains, guess what? More buckets | 5.11c | 25m | |||||
5 |
★★ The Harlot
Steep climbing on huge buckets over the big bulge with a few big moves. Sustained pumpy climbing to the anchors! Total endurance | 5.11d | 25m | |||||
6 | project | |||||||
7 |
★★★ B60 OFO / Thirty Something
The route is graded on pump, but the buckets do run out into smaller jugs in 2 sections. 30m's of constant overhanging steep powerful climbing. Pray for a low gravity day and that your arms don't explode! FA: Mark Whalen & Eric Hoogstraten, 2001 | 5.12a | 30m, 12 | |||||
8 |
Born from the Mountain
Obscurely steep for the grade. Maybe more like 11a? Who knows. Hardware is hard to locate but it comes out the right side of the cave. Body positioning is key on jugs the whole way. Pity it stinks like rat piss and half the cave is rat shit. Unpopular | 5.10c | 10m |
1.5.7. Graceland Area 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.072543, -115.407243
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ You Ain't Nothing but a Hang Dog | 5.10d | 13m, 4 | |||||
2 |
★★ It's Now or Never
Branch left at the midway anchor of Memphis. | 5.11a | 29m, 14 | |||||
3 | ★★ Memphis | 5.10d | 29m, 13 | |||||
4 | ★★ Graceland | 5.10d | 13m, 6 | |||||
5 | ★★ Elvis Lives | 5.10c | 13m, 7 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★ Heartbreak Hotel
Ridiculously fun climbing on amazing pockets ends at a Boulder problem on the roof starting with the bucket undercling. Crank it to easier ground above. | 5.11a | 21m, 9 | |||||
7 |
★★ Sunglasses & Sideburns
Sustained climbing with a few mini cruxes on great holds all the way to the anchors. FA: Chris Miller, 1999 | 5.10c | 20m, 8 | |||||
8 |
★ Honeymoon in Vegas
2 great cruxes on small pockets separated by pumpy fun climbing. FA: Roger Chayer, 1999 | 5.10d | 20m, 8 | |||||
9 |
★★ Moody Blue
Far right of wall. Begins on right-trending ramp, climbing on cool pockets to a powerful crux on sidepulls. New retrofit with all new glue in's (Greg Tos 2016). | 5.11b | 17m, 8 |
1.5.8. Gardener's Wall 13 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.071816, -115.406915
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Rock Garden | 5.9 | 12m, 4 | |||||
2 |
★ Holes to Heaven
Shares anchor with Lumpy Lane. FA: Roger Chayer, 2003 | 5.10a | 12m, 9 | |||||
3 |
★ Lumpy Lane
Shares anchor with Holes to Heaven. FA: Sara Rainford, 2001 | 5.9 | 12m, 9 | |||||
4 |
★ Pothole Alley
FA: Roger Chayer & Sara Rainford; FFA Kern Hendricks | 5.9 | 12m, 10 | |||||
5 |
★ Rocky Road
FA: Roger Chayer & Sara Rainford; FFA Kern Hendricks | 5.9 | 15m, 10 | |||||
6 | ★ Gardener's Question Time | 5.9 | 16m, 6 | |||||
7 |
★ The Lost Gardener
FA: Greg Tos, 2016 | 5.9 | 11m, 7 | |||||
8 | ★ Pocket Full of Worms | 5.9 | 11m, 5 | |||||
9 |
★ Horrorculture
FA: Chris Miller, 1999 | 5.8 | 13m, 7 | |||||
10 |
★ I Must Mention Gentians
Route left of the crack in the corner, finishes a bit higher than the routes to the left. FA: John Martin, 1995 | 5.10a | 20m, 9 | |||||
11 |
★★ Weed 'Em and Reap
First route that starts down-and-right of the main platform form Gardener's Wall. | 5.10b | 20m, 9 | |||||
12 |
★★ Bucket City
FA: Jon Jones, 1995 | 5.10b | 14m, 6 | |||||
13 |
★ Fiberglass Undies
FA: David Dancer, 1988 | 5.10c | 11m, 8 |
1.5.9. Hermit Wall 19 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Ice climbing
Lat / Long: 51.071213, -115.408137
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Cold Fusion | 5.11a | 22m, 8 | |||||
2 |
★★★ Dakar
The crux is very committing, but make sure to leave something in the tank for the last few crimpy holds to gain the anchor. | 5.11c | 22m, 10 | |||||
3 |
★ Silk P1
Sustained Technical climbing on thin pockets most of the way. A no hands rest on the ledge halfway! | 5.10d | 15m, 7 | |||||
4 |
★★ Silk P2
Enjoy positive flakes and a fun roof. Nice position and climbing. | 5.11a | 22m, 12 | |||||
5 | ★★ Ain't it Hell? P1 | 5.10d | 15m, 6 | |||||
6 | ★ Ain't it Hell? P2 | 5.11b | 21m, 10 | |||||
7 | ★ The Eyes Have It | 5.10b | 10m, 4 | |||||
8 | ★ The eyes have it (left option) | 5.11a | ||||||
9 |
★★ Say It Ain't So
Technical face climbing on super cool pockets. Fun | 5.10c | 10m, 5 | |||||
10 |
★★★ Mr Manners
Fun climbing down low leads to a "Party" ledge. (Big enough to hold a party). Big moves on big holds climbs the left side of "the diamond" with a sensational finish. | 5.11a | 20m, 8 | |||||
11 | Strike Out | 5.11c | 20m, 8 | |||||
12 | ★ Green Room | 5.11a | 19m, 8 | |||||
13 | ★ Cry Wolf | 5.10c | 11m, 5 | |||||
14 | The Overhang | M6 | 15m, 2 | |||||
15 | Pascquala | M6 | 20m, 6 | |||||
16 | The Grinch | M7 | 20m, 1 | |||||
17 | Nuclear Winte | M6 | 20m, 6 | |||||
18 | Double Dutch | M7 | 20m, 3 | |||||
19 | The Tyranny of Gear | M7 | 20m |
1.5.10. Swamp Buttress 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.071202, -115.408642
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Swamp Buttress Left | 5.10d | 10m | |||||
2 | ★ Swamp Buttress Centre | 5.10c | 10m | |||||
3 | ★★ Swamp Buttress Right | 5.10d | 10m | |||||
4 |
★★ Oh! That Thing
Up hill and right of The Main Swamp Boulder, is this route. You can view it perfectly from The Rectory. Its basically a harder, steeper, better quality of its 5.10 brothers. A Chossy Boulder problem begins, with a huge Rest in a massive Pod. Leaving the large Hueco feels thin and hard for sure. Enjoy the Boulder problem finish! FA: 2000 | 5.12a | 12m, 6 | |||||
5 |
★★ Deviant
This short but steep route has 2 Boulder problems (cruxes) of different flavours separated by a no hands rest. FA: Houston Peschl, 1995 | 5.11c | 10m, 5 |
1.5.11. Roadhouse 2 routes in Unknown
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.071653, -115.408110
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Real Good Time | 5.10a | 12m, 6 | |||
2 |
★ Roadhouse Grill
To the right of the 10A. All the hangers have been removed. | 5.9 | 15m, 5 |
1.6. Heart Creek 223 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Rock climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 51.041469, -115.146660
1.6.1. First Rock 29 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.046098, -115.152811
description
The easier routes can be quite polished at the bottom. Very popular with city folk on weekends as it is one of the closest crags to Calgary.
approach
From the Heart Creek parking lot walk past the sign for about 8 minutes until you reach the second bridge. Don't cross it but turn right directly to First Rock.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Brownout | 5.10c | ||||||
2 | ★★ Potentilla Pillar | 5.8 | 29m | |||||
3 |
★ Heartline
second pitch is "a dream of white schnauzers" | 5.7 | 28m, 2, 10 | |||||
4 |
★ A Dream of White Schnauzers
Polished moves lead to a one-ring anchor. Above this is access to Heartline | 5.6 | 10 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
5 | ★ Heartfelt | 5.10c | ||||||
6 | ★ Trio | 5.6 | 11m, 3 | |||||
7 | ★ Less Than Zero | 5.8 | 12m, 4 | |||||
8 | ★ Back to Zero | 5.9 | 13m, 5 | |||||
9 |
★ Feel On
Crimpy moves to the crux. Note the hidden hold directly under the second bolt as your draw will sit on top of it. | 5.10b | 13m, 5 | |||||
10 | ★ Feel On Baby | 5.10b | ||||||
11 | ★ Dynamic Dumpling | 5.10d | ||||||
12 | ★★ Survival of the Fattest | 5.10c | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
13 | ★ Cavebird | 5.9 | 7 | |||||
14 | ★ Pyramid Power | 5.9 | ||||||
15 | ★★ Midnight Rambler | 5.10c | 12m, 4 | |||||
16 | ★ Sweet Souvenir | 5.11c | ||||||
17 | Honky Tonk Woman | 5.10c | 10m, 1 | |||||
18 | ★ Voodoo Lounge | 5.11c | 10m, 3 | |||||
19 | ★ Let it Bleed | 5.10a | ||||||
20 | ★ Paint it Black | 5.11a | ||||||
21 | Bitch | 5.11b | 18m, 3 | |||||
22 | Sticky Fingers | 5.10c | 18m, 6 | |||||
23 | Dandelions | 5.8 | 20m, 6 | |||||
24 | Dead Flowers | 5.10b | 19m, 7 | |||||
25 | Brown Sugar | 5.10a | ||||||
26 | Heartburn | 5.9 | ||||||
27 | Heartburn Direct | 5.10c | 12m, 4 | |||||
28 | Wild Horses | 5.9 | ||||||
29 | Steel Wheels | 5.10a | 18m, 7 |
1.6.2. The Solstice 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.046581, -115.151509
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Electric Koolaid Ocean | 5.6 | ||||
2 | Herbivore Dance | 5.5 | ||||
3 | ★ Iron Eclipse | 5.8 | ||||
4 | Tribal Wedding | 5.9 | ||||
5 | ★ Merry Pranksters | 5.10a |
1.6.3. Heart & Sole 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.046607, -115.151924
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Itchy Jig | 5.7 | ||||
2 | ★ Sole Food | 5.9 | ||||
3 | Heart & Sole | 5.9 | 5 | |||
4 | ★ Mr Percival | 5.10a |
1.6.4. Jupiter Rock 18 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.044666, -115.151290
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Limicoline P1 | 5.10c | 22m, 8 | |||||
2 | Limicoline P2 | 5.10c | 13m, 4 | |||||
3 | ★★ Riparian P1 | 5.9 | 22m, 8 | |||||
4 | Riparian P2 | 5.10a | 13m, 4 | |||||
5 | ★★ Aphrodite | 5.10b | 24m, 9 | |||||
6 | ★ Venus | 5.10a | 25m, 10 | |||||
7 | ★★ Ganymede | 5.10c | 25m, 9 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
8 | ★ Brontes | 5.11a | 23m, 8 | |||||
9 | Brontes to Zippy | 5.10a | ||||||
10 |
★★★ Zippy the Pinhead
FA: John Martin, 1994 | 5.11a | 23m, 9 | |||||
11 |
★★ Callisto
FA: Chris Perry, 1983 | 5.10a | 28m, 12 | |||||
12 |
★★★ For Your Eyes Only
FA: Andy Genereux, 1986 | 5.10b | 28m, 10 | |||||
13 |
★ Puppet on a Chain
FA: Andy Genereux, 1986 | 5.10c | 26m, 8 | |||||
14 | ★★ Pacemaker | 5.10c | 26m, 9 | |||||
15 | ★★ Heart of Darkness | 5.11b | 26m, 9 | |||||
16 | ★★ Crimson Tide | 5.11a | 27m, 11 | |||||
17 |
★ Heart of Gold
FA: Andy Genereux, 1986 | 5.10c | 26m, 10 | |||||
18 |
★ Last Call
FA: John Martin, 1995 | 5.10a | 29m, 11 |
1.6.5. Sumc Buttress 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.044242, -115.150841
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Glide | 5.10b | 15m, 6 | |||
2 | ★ Night and Day | 5.10b | 25m, 11 | |||
3 | ★ Original Route | 5.10c | 25m, 10 | |||
4 | ★ Fetish | 5.10b | 23m, 11 | |||
5 | Illusive Edge | 5.10a | 25m, 8 | |||
6 | ★ Hell's Bells | 5.10a | 25m, 10 | |||
7 |
★ Dancers at the End of Time / Kepler
Incorrectly labelled in the Bow Valley Sport guidebook. Seems to be the same route as Kepler (see Mountain Project). FA: John Martin, 2010 | 5.9 | 15m, 6 | |||
8 |
★ Avatar
Listed as "Dancers at the End of Time" in the Bow Valley Sport guidebook. Start on "Dancers at the End of Time" and make a rightward traverse to reach the high, first bolt of this climb. Balancey and technical black rock lead to a roof. Switch into layback mode for the small corner above. | 5.10c | 13m | |||
9 |
★ Music of the Spheres
FA: John Martin, 2010 | 5.9 | 13m, 5 | |||
10 | ★★★ Galileo | 5.10a | 21m, 9 | |||
11 | Sleeping Beauty | 5.10a | 26m, 11 |
1.6.6. Blackheart 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.041687, -115.151004
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Half a Heart
FA: John Martin, 1996 | 5.9 | 19m, 5 | |||
2 |
Kiss and Tell
FA: John Martin, 2001 | 5.10a | 19m, 5 | |||
3 |
★ Have a Heart
FA: John Martin, 1996 | 5.10a | 19m, 5 | |||
4 | ★ Shoot from the Hip | 5.10a | ||||
5 |
★★ Heart Throb
FA: John Martin, 1996 | 5.10b | 27m, 11 | |||
6 |
★★ Bleeding Heart
FA: John Martin, 1996 | 5.11b | 20m, 9 | |||
7 |
★★ Braveheart
FA: John Martin, 1996 | 5.10b | 24m, 10 | |||
8 | ★ Blackheart Direct | 5.11a | ||||
9 |
★★ Blackheart
FA: John Martin, 1987 | 5.10b | 28m, 9 | |||
10 | Heart of Stone | 5.10c | ||||
11 | ★ Heartbreaker | 5.10b |
1.6.7. Bunny Hill 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.041036, -115.150051
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Heartless | 5.10b | 15m, 6 | |||||
2 | Rat in a Cage | 5.10a | 11m, 4 | |||||
3 | ★ Chip Butty | 5.10a | 11m, 4 | |||||
4 | ★ Simple | 5.4 | 11m, 4 | |||||
5 |
★ You Oughtta’ Know
FA: John Martin, 1995 | 5.9 | 22m, 9 | |||||
6 |
★ Come As You Are
FA: John Martin, 1995 | 5.9 | 17m, 6 | |||||
7 | ★★ Until it Sleeps | 5.10d | 15m, 5 | |||||
8 | ★★ Contemporary Cuisine | 5.10b | 19m, 8 | |||||
9 | ★ Rough But Well Groomed | 5.9 | 19m, 7 | |||||
10 | ★★ Savoir Faire | 5.10c | 28m, 12 | |||||
11 | Poodle Springs | 5.10d | 22m, 9 | |||||
12 | ★ Carpe Diem | 5.10c | 17m, 7 |
1.6.8. Waterfall Wall 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.039760, -115.150519
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Late Shift | 5.10a | 29m, 13 | |||||
2 | ★★ Omnivore | 5.10d | 28m, 11 | |||||
3 |
★★ Big Chill
Start just right of the often wet hole. Bypass the angling roof to the left and continue straight up on. A roof on huge underclings guards the chains. Technical the whole entire way. FA: John Martin | 5.11a | 17m, 7 | |||||
4 | ★ Trail's End | 5.11a | 15m, 8 | |||||
5 | ★ Masterbretter | 5.11b | 15m, 9 | |||||
6 | ★ Les Nuages | 5.10d | 16m, 6 | |||||
7 | ★★ 52 Pickup | 5.10d | 16m, 6 | |||||
8 | ★ Lazarus | 5.11b | 12m, 6 | |||||
9 | ★ Lazarus Direct | 5.10c | 12m, 6 | |||||
10 | Stretchmarks | 5.10d | 13m, 6 | |||||
11 | Downdraft | 5.10a | 13m, 5 | |||||
12 | Gridlock | 5.10a | 13m, 5 |
1.6.9. The Bayon 19 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.039973, -115.151230
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Old Timer | 5.13c | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 |
★★ Beat Farmer
Scramble onto the blocky Boulder to start. Head up a short right facing corner to a no hands rest, to another ledge and continue up the overhanging wall to a difficult powerful finish. FA: Marcus Norman | 5.12a | 17m, 6 | |||||
3 | ★★ Palm Sisters | 5.12b | ||||||
4 | An Arm and a Leg | 5.12b | ||||||
5 | ★★ Mumblebunny | 5.12c | ||||||
6 | Kung Pow | 5.12c | ||||||
7 | Mumblebunny Direct Start | 5.13b | ||||||
8 | Splash Down | 5.13c | 19m, 12 | |||||
9 | ★★ Tub Trauma | 5.13b | ||||||
10 | ★ Sonnie's Route | 5.13b | ||||||
11 | ★ Barb Wire | 5.13b | ||||||
12 | ★ Intergalactic Planetary | 5.13b | ||||||
13 | May the Funk be With You | 5.13b | ||||||
14 | Salty | 5.13a | ||||||
15 | The Throbbing Affirmation of Love | 5.12d | ||||||
16 | Dutch Boy Magic | 5.12d | ||||||
17 | Hecubus | 5.13a | ||||||
18 |
Clump
Navigate through vicious crimps en route to an anchor over the ledge on the slab. | 5.11d | 7m, 2 | |||||
19 | Short-lived Freedom | 5.12c | 7m, 1 |
1.6.10. The Book Club 2 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Top roping
description
Located above The Bayon.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
It Takes A Village
FA: Nat Bailey, 2020 | 5.13b | 25m | |||
2 | Two Dudes, One Brownpoint | 5.11c |
1.6.11. Golden Arch Crag 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Bones on the Moon | 5.10c | 40m, 8 | |||
2 | Gerg Lenrock Pounds Mr Slate | 5.10d | 40m, 7 | |||
3 | Harder than Ron Jeremy | 5.11a | 40m, 8 | |||
4 | Interview with the CMC Vampire | 5.10d | 5 | |||
5 | 1970s Rock Olympics | 5.10c | 5 | |||
6 | For Sportbras and Pantilines | 5.8 | 20m, 4 | |||
7 | Gumboot Cloggeroo | 5.10b | 15m, 5 | |||
8 | The Drill Sergeant | 5.10a | 15m, 5 | |||
9 | Fiddles over Kandahar | 5.8 | 15m, 3 |
1.6.12. Upper Heart Crag 16 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Chase the Lady | 5.6 | ||||
2 | Black Maria | 5.10c | ||||
3 | Fear of Flying | 5.10d | ||||
4 | Quicksilver | 5.10c | ||||
5 | Valentine | 5.8 | ||||
6 | Warm Heart | 5.8 | ||||
7 | Cold Hands | 5.9 | ||||
8 | Windbreaker (alt. start) | 5.8 | ||||
9 | Windbreaker | 5.8 | ||||
10 | Nerve Gas | 5.10c | ||||
11 | Cool Blue | 5.10a | ||||
12 | Stanley Stumbles | 5.9 | ||||
13 | Livingstone Falls | 5.11a | ||||
14 | Darkest Africa | 5.10c | ||||
15 | Touch and Go | 5.11b | ||||
16 | Purple Haze | 5.10b |
1.6.13. Amphitheatre 21 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.042680, -115.151635
1.6.13.1. Patriot's Groove 4 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
1.6.13.2. Upper Amphitheatre 17 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
1.6.14. Amphitheatre, Left Side 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Book of Eli
Climb Slackline King to the fifth bolt thengtatverse left on a shit slab. Contour up leftward to a set of black chains before tackling an exposed and technical face. A tough crux guards the final moves to the anchor. | 5.13a | ||||
2 |
★★ Matron Saint
Climb Slackline King to the fifth bolt then traverse left on a shit slab. Finish straight up via a powerful boulder problem. | 5.12d | 32m, 12 | |||
3 | The Good Life | 5.12d | ||||
4 |
★★ Lord of The Rungs
From the anchor of Slackline King climb directly into a tough crux and finish with a balancey slab. | 5.13a | 32m, 13 | |||
5 |
★★ Slackline King
This pitch has amazing holds. Start just left of a dead tree and follow blue stone into a corner. | 5.10d | 17m, 7 | |||
6 |
★★ Arrival of the Fittest
Climb Slackline King to the fifth bolt. Branch right and follow a bkue streak over two ledges to the base of a black wall. Excellent and pumpy climbing to the anchor will have your forearms burning. Only the fittest arrive. | 5.12b | 30m, 11 | |||
7 |
★★ The Convincer
Small boulder problems separated by buckets lead to an incredibly beautiful blue streak peppered with awesome holds. The quality of this pitch was meant to convince climbers the ledge was worthy of attention. | 5.12b | 31m, 11 | |||
8 |
★★ Sling Thing
Start at the right end of the tree ledge, climb a small left facing corner before following a faint blue streak into the lighting bolt corner above. Make an airy traverse leftward, crank over the roof and forge up to the anchor. | 5.11b | 26m, 9 | |||
9 |
★★ Skyscraper
Climb Sling Thing to the third bolt. Branch right using hard to find holds to gain the security of the flakes. A tricky leftward move leads to the lighting bolt corner. Continue up and left via awesome but sporty terrain. | 5.11c | ||||
10 | Ground Floor, Going Up? | 5.8 | 25m, 7 | |||
11 |
★ Polish Punch
From the third bolt of Warmed By The Devils Fire move left to a smooth technical face. | 5.12c | 15m, 6 | |||
12 |
★★ Warmed By The Devils Fire
This short bouldery route climbs straight out of the middle of the steep overhang. Pull carefully last a choss band at 3/4’s height. | 5.12c | 15m, 7 |
1.6.15. Lower Heart Crag 10 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Stairway to Heaven | 5.10a | 95m | |||
2 | ★ Styx | 5.9 | 120m | |||
3 | Fred | 5.9 | 120m | |||
4 | Grovel | 5.6 | 180m | |||
5 | ★★ Overly Hung | 5.10a | 110m | |||
6 | Underly Clung | 5.10b | 80m |
1.6.15.1. North Wing 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
1.6.16. Heart Slab 20 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Mix-Up | 5.8 | 120m | |||
2 | North Slab | 5.8 | 130m | |||
3 | Trident | 5.9 | 45m | |||
4 | Slanting Slab | 5.7 | 50m | |||
5 | Arch Slab | 5.7 | 30m | |||
6 | The Hook | 5.10a | 45m | |||
7 | ★ Skid Row | 5.10b | 30m | |||
8 | ★★ Rough Mix | 5.9 | 70m | |||
9 | White Line Special | 5.9 | 45m | |||
10 | A Touch Soft | 5.9 | 40m | |||
11 | ★★ Soft Touch | 5.8 | 40m | |||
12 | Bad Habits | 5.8 | 40m | |||
13 | ★ Original Sin | 5.8 | 40m | |||
14 | Plimsoll Line | 5.6 | 65m | |||
15 | Bluebell Way | 5.6 | 45m | |||
16 | Red Slab | 5.8 | 75m | |||
17 | White Slab | 5.9 | 75m | |||
18 | ★ The Scoop | 5.7 | 65m | |||
19 | Black Slab | 5.7 | 70m | |||
20 | Passing Slab | 5.7 | 70m |
1.6.17. Heart Mountain 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
St. Pierre's Summit
FA: S. DeMaio, A. St.Pierre & D. St. Pierre | 5.7 | 95m | |||
2 |
★★ Heart Line
FA: Chas Yonge & Chris Perry, Jun 2017 | 5.9 A1 | 580m, 17 | |||
3 |
★★ Heart Line (moderate option)
First 6 pitches of the full Heart Line, and then a descent via Heart Slab, as detailed in Chas Yonge's route description. FA: Chas Yonge & Chris Perry, Jun 2017 | 5.6 | 330m, 6 |
1.6.18. Sixth Bridge 9 routes in Unknown
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
description
Also known as Runnel Wall in Dereck Galloways 3rd edition of BowValley Sport.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | A Space Oddity | 5.11b | ||||
2 | Predator II | 5.10d | ||||
3 | Andromeda Strain | 5.10c | ||||
4 | Klingon | 5.10a | ||||
5 | Lost In Space | 5.10b | 53m, 2 | |||
6 | Logans Runnel | 5.7 | 51m, 2 | |||
7 | Blade Runnel | 5.4 | 15m, 4 | |||
8 | Close Encounter of the First Kind | 5.4 | 15m, 3 | |||
9 |
Heartless
FA: John Martin | 5.10b | 15m, 6 |
1.7. Grotto Canyon 266 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Sport climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 51.071512, -115.225411
1.7.1. The Headwall 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Ice climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 51.068946, -115.218086
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ His | {AU} WI4 | 15m | |||
2 | ★ Hers | {AU} WI4 | 15m | |||
3 | ★★ Mental Jewlery | M6 | 12m | |||
4 |
★★★ Pudding
The middle dry line. Thin start, then follow arching crack to the right. Crux is often clipping the chains! | M6 | 20m | |||
5 | ★ Sketch and Sniff | M6 | 12m | |||
6 | Secret Samadhi | M6 | 12m | |||
7 | ★★ Testate | 5.11a | 40m, 2 | |||
8 |
★★★ Probate
FA: Chas Yonge & Gloria Folden, 2012 | 5.10b | 80m, 3, 23 | |||
9 | The Verdict | 5.10c |
1.7.2. Grotto Falls 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Ice climbing
Lat / Long: 51.069403, -115.217499
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Grotto Falls | {AU} WI3 | 55m | |||
2 | Bisexual Piton | 5.8 WI3 | 50m, 2 |
1.7.3. Water Wall Left 18 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 51.066467, -115.217236
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Raindust | 5.10c | ||||||
2 | Soft Option | 5.10b | ||||||
3 | Kinesthesia | 5.9 | ||||||
4 | Breezin | 5.7 | ||||||
5 | ILL Wind | 5.9 | ||||||
6 | ★ Canary in a Coal Mine | 5.9 | ||||||
7 | ★ Deviant Behaviour | 5.10a | ||||||
8 | Loose Lips Sink Ships | 5.10c | ||||||
9 | ★ Lip Service | 5.10d | ||||||
10 | ★ Power Play | 5.10c | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 | ★ Denkem | 5.10a | ||||||
12 | ★ Spring Clean | 5.10a | ||||||
13 | ★ The Ablutor | 5.10c | ||||||
14 | Scarface | 5.11b | ||||||
15 | ★ For Whom the Bell Tolls | 5.11b | ||||||
16 | Reflex Action | 5.11a | ||||||
17 | Cerebral Goretex | 5.11c | ||||||
18 | Across the River and into the Trees | 5.11c |
1.7.4. Water Wall Right 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.066094, -115.216978
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Cause and Effect | 5.13b | ||||
2 | Project | |||||
3 | Burn Hollywood Burn | 5.13b | ||||
4 | Shep's Diner | 5.13a | ||||
5 | Bloody Outsiders | 5.13a | ||||
6 | The Resurrection | 5.13b | ||||
7 | Crimes of Passion | 5.12d | ||||
8 | Vapor Trails | 5.13b | ||||
9 | Tintin and the Snowy Get Pysched | 5.12d | ||||
10 | Metabolica | 5.13a | ||||
11 | Urban Youth | 5.11d | ||||
12 |
The Sting
FA: 1985 | 5.10d | 25m, 3 |
1.7.5. Hemingway Wall Left 19 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.066474, -115.217549
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Exit Stage Left | 5.8 | 4m, 4 | |||||
2 | Exit Stage Right | 5.6 | 4m, 3 | |||||
3 |
★ Old Man and the C
FA: Cy Michaud, 2016 | 5.10c | 17m, 9 | |||||
4 | ★★ Death in the Afternoon | 5.12a | ||||||
5 |
★★ The Importance of Being Ernest
Classic vertical test piece on polished micro holds | 5.12a | ||||||
6 | ★★ Cracked Rhythm | 5.12c | ||||||
7 | ★★ Chips are for Kids | 5.11b | ||||||
8 |
★★ Farewell to Arms
Classic climbing on polished grotto canyon rock. Big moves lead to a crack flake. Keep the pump at bay over gripping the polished jugs to a no hands rest. Crank the bulge on small side pulls to a fun finish. FA: Dave Morgan, 1985 | 5.11a | 15m, 5 | |||||
9 |
★ Running Out Of Room
Start on Farewell to Arms (11a). At the 3rd bolt, leave the comfort of the crack system and go strait up for some face climbing on impeccable grey stone. Inspired by a recent trip to Smith Rock, and in sticking with the old school nature of the routes on Hemingway Wall, this climb features only 2 bolts on the ~25' face. The falls are totally safe, but you will need calm nerves, delicate touch, and old fashion try hard for a successful tick. "Courage is Grace Under Pressure" - Ernest Hemingway. FA: Maddy Marchuk | 5.12c | ||||||
10 | ★ Tropicana | 5.12d | ||||||
11 |
★★ Men at War
Start up and head left of Success Pool. A hard move getting to the second bolt leads to easier climbing toward a shared rest with Tropicana. From here a difficult traverse right leads to a quick shake and an almost implausible reach move before testing your endurance to the chains. FA: Mason Tessier, 2019 | 5.13b | ||||||
12 | Success Pool | 5.12a | ||||||
13 | Sloppy Seconds | 5.11d | 14m, 5 | |||||
14 | ★★ Walk on the Wild Side | 5.11c | ||||||
15 |
★★★ Stone Age Romeos
A technical test piece. One of the best of the grades in the valley. Figure out the puzzle! Stacked weird rockovers and a gnarly topout keeps you working from the moment you pull on till the moment you sigh with relief at the chains. | 5.11d | 20m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
16 | Grey Matter | 5.11a | ||||||
17 | ★ Grand Larceny | 5.10d | ||||||
18 | Petty Theft | 5.10d | 11m, 4 | |||||
19 |
Falling from Heaven
FA: Bill Rennie, 1985 | 5.9 | 11m, 4 |
1.7.6. Hemingway Wall Right 18 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 51.066805, -115.217688
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Zipcode | 5.10c | 11m, 4 | |||
2 | Little Canadian Corner | 5.8 | ||||
3 | Lively Up Yourself | 5.10c | ||||
4 | Flake Line | 5.6 | ||||
5 | ★ Runaway | 5.10a | ||||
6 | Footloose | 5.11a | ||||
7 | ★★ Run of the River | 5.10b | ||||
8 | Walk the Line | 5.9 | 9m, 3 | |||
9 | Cakewalk | 5.8 | ||||
10 | Oh No Not Another | 5.9 | ||||
11 | Yet Another | 5.7 | ||||
12 | ★★★ Layla | 5.10a | ||||
13 | ★★★ Delilah | 5.11a | ||||
14 | ★ Siren Song | 5.11a | 17m, 5 | |||
15 |
Temptress
FA: Andy Genereux, 1985 | 5.10c | 13m, 2 | |||
16 |
Nymphet
Work up an input zig zag feature that goes into some nice consistent 5.8 face climbing. | 5.8 | 21m, 6 | |||
17 |
★★ Scheherazade
Kind of a hard polished start for a 5.9, enjoyable face climbing on moderate footholds. Finishes with a polished face that is not consistent with grade but seems like most people circumvent to the right along a wide left trending undercling to anchors. FA: John Martin, 1992 | 5.9 | 21m, 6 | |||
18 |
Lola
Nice start and face climbing. Not ideal for top roping as there's trees midway up that obstruct the line to the anchor. Set: John Martin, 1993 | 5.9 | 21m, 5 |
1.7.7. Three Tier Buttress 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 51.067036, -115.217447
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Stiff Upper Lip | 5.10d | ||||
2 | Short and Curly | 5.10d | ||||
3 | Too Low for Zero | 5.11b | ||||
4 | High Octane | 5.11c | ||||
5 | ★ Dr No | 5.12b | ||||
6 | Mr Olympia | 5.11d | ||||
7 | Rising Damp | 5.9 |
1.7.8. The Peanut 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | KP Special | 5.11a |
1.7.9. Paintings Wall South 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.067843, -115.217691
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Blaster
FA: Chris Miller, 1992 | 5.10a | 13m, 4 | |||||
2 | ★ Blindside | 5.10c | 12m | |||||
3 | ★ Scavenger | 5.9 | ||||||
4 | ★ OK Corral | 5.8 | ||||||
5 |
★★ Art of the Ancients
FA: Chris Miller, 1990 | 5.9 | 15m, 5 | |||||
6 |
Retrospective
FA: John Martin, 1994 | 5.10a | 15m, 6 | |||||
7 | ★★ Left to Chance | 5.10c | ||||||
8 | ★★ Cultural Imperative | 5.11b | 15m | |||||
9 | ★★ Artful Dodger | 5.10a | ||||||
10 | Peter Pan | 5.11a | ||||||
11 | ★★ Sidewinder | 5.11b |
1.7.10. Paintings Wall North 16 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.068243, -115.217789
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Hellen Damnation | 5.11d | ||||
2 | ★ Toper of Pisa | 5.11c | ||||
3 | ★★ Tour de France | 5.12a | ||||
4 |
★★ Tour de Pump
FA: Andy Genereux, 1992 | 5.11b | 14m, 7 | |||
5 |
Nine Ways to Sunday
FA: John Martin, 2012 | 5.9 | 13m, 5 | |||
6 | Jugthuggery | 5.10b | ||||
7 |
Pieces of Eight
FA: John Martin, 2008 | 5.10b | 13m, 6 | |||
8 | ★ Fly by Night | 5.11c | ||||
9 | Project | |||||
10 | ★ Fast Forward | 5.10c | ||||
11 | Walk Don't Run | 5.11b | ||||
12 | ★ Rush | 5.11b | ||||
13 |
★ Layaway Plan
FA: Chris Miller, 1992 | 5.10c | 15m, 5 | |||
14 |
★ Watusi Wedding
FA: Chris Miller, 1992 | 5.10a | 11m, 4 | |||
15 |
★ Jesus Drives a Cadillac
FA: Chris Miller, 1992 | 5.10b | 11m, 4 | |||
16 |
You're Only Cheating Yourself
If you use the ledge, "you're only cheating yourself". FA: Mason Tessier, 2013 | 5.12b | 8m, 3 |
1.7.11. Lower White Wing 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 51.067936, -115.217171
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Soma | 5.11c | ||||
2 | ★ Hush | 5.11c | ||||
3 | ★ Subliminal Seduction | 5.11d | ||||
4 | Project | |||||
5 | Lunatic Madness | 5.11a | ||||
6 | ★ Lithium | 5.10d | ||||
7 | ★ Joyride | 5.8 | ||||
8 | Agressive Treatment | 5.10d | ||||
9 | Night Life | 5.11a |
1.7.12. Upper White Wing 14 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.068394, -115.217139
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Knight Shift | 5.10a | ||||
2 | Cameo | 5.9 | ||||
3 | ★★ Diamond Sky | 5.10b | ||||
4 | ★ Charm | 5.10b | ||||
5 | ★★★ Blind Faith | 5.10a | ||||
6 | ★ Silhouette | 5.10b | ||||
7 | Tapdance | 5.10b | ||||
8 | ★ Yellow Wedge | 5.9 | ||||
9 | ★ Lemon Pie | 5.10b | ||||
10 | ★ Lime Street | 5.9 | ||||
11 | ★★ Pink Cadillac | 5.10a | ||||
12 | ★ Pitrun | 5.10b | ||||
13 | ★★ Caught in the Crossfire | 5.10b | ||||
14 | Supplication | 5.10b |
1.7.13. The Alley -Left 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
description
A 15m high cliff with nice climbing in the 5.11 - 5.12 range with more friction that other areas in the canyon.
approach
Take a right at the headwall scrambling up the slabs until there is a break in the wall. Climb this via fixed cables then follow the steep and slippery path to the top where you will see the routes. Approximately 15mins from the carpark.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Hee Haw | 5.12c | 7m, 3 | |||
2 | Scream Saver | 5.12a | 15m, 6 | |||
3 | ★★ White Noise | 5.12c | 12m, 4 | |||
4 | ★★ A Fetching Bell Shape, Small but Perfectly Formed | 5.12c | 12m, 5 |
1.7.14. The Alley - Centre 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.069347, -115.216949
summary
A 15m tall cliff
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Knight Moves
High quality moves on good holds. | 5.11a | 15m, 6 | |||
2 | Hollow Victory | 5.10c | 15m, 7 | |||
3 | ★★★ Barchetta | 5.11c | 15m, 7 | |||
4 | ★ Path of the Moose | 5.12a | 15m, 6 | |||
5 | ★★ Get Your Ducks in a Row | 5.12b | 14m, 5 | |||
6 | ★★ Submission Direct | 5.11b | 14m, 6 |
1.7.15. The Alley - Right 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
summary
15m high wall that gets sun most of the day. A steep approach which would be tricky after rain or if there is still snow or ice. Be careful!
description
Nice climbing in the 5.11 - 5.12 range with slightly more texture than other walls in the canyon.
approach
Take a right at the headwall scrambling up the slabs until there is a break in the wall. Climb this via fixed cables then follow the steep and slippery path to the top where you will see the routes. Approximately 15mins from the carpark.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Submission | 5.11d | 7 | |||
2 | ★ Crossroad | 5.11d | 15m, 5 | |||
3 | ★ Snakes and Ladders | 5.12a | 15m, 7 | |||
4 | ★ Fear No Art | 5.11b | 15m, 5 | |||
5 | ★★ Big Breasted Girls Go To the Beach and Take Their Tops Off | 5.11b | 15m, 6 | |||
6 | ★★★ Grace Under Pressure | 5.11d | 15m, 8 | |||
7 |
★ Tears of the Dinosaur
Scramble to the ledge and start just left of 2 small stumps. Stick clip recommended for the first bolt which is quite high and not super easy. | 5.11b | 15m, 5 | |||
8 |
★★ Engines Burning
Scramble to the ledge and start just left of 2 small stumps. Stick clip recommended for the first bolt which is quite high and not super easy. | 5.11b | 15m, 5 |
1.7.16. Lower Narrows 19 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 51.068512, -115.218883
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Bogus | 5.10d | ||||
2 | ★ Mighty Mite | 5.12a | ||||
3 | The Midden | 5.9 | ||||
4 |
Kubla Kahn
FA: Unknown | 5.6 | 14m, 3 | |||
5 | ★ Xanadu | 5.10a | ||||
6 | Stormy Weather | 5.11a | ||||
7 | Blik | 5.10b | ||||
8 | ★ West Coast Idea | 5.10c | ||||
9 | Moonabago | 5.10b | ||||
10 | ★ Mendocino | 5.11a | ||||
11 | ★ Malibu | 5.10c | ||||
12 | ★ Monterey | 5.10a | ||||
13 | Baker Street | 5.10d | ||||
14 | Dr. Watson | 5.9 | ||||
15 | Lost World | 5.10a | ||||
16 | Hollow Earth | 5.9 | ||||
17 | Moriarty | 5.9 | ||||
18 | Unknown | 5.6 | ||||
19 | Might Mark | 5.12b |
1.7.17. Illusion Rock 12 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 51.068752, -115.219945
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Harder Than it Looks | 5.10c | ||||||
2 | ★ Monkey in a Rage | 5.11a | ||||||
3 | ★ Grand Illusion | 5.10a | ||||||
4 | ★ Grander Illusion | 5.10c | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
5 | ★ Guitarzan | 5.10b | ||||||
6 | ★ George of the Jungle | 5.10c | ||||||
7 | ★★ Jackorner | 5.7 | ||||||
8 | Zapped | 5.10a | ||||||
9 |
★ Impending Impact
Slab climbing!!!!. Run out to the first bolt, but has solid feet and nice crimps. Don't let the height of the first bolt scare you. | 5.10a | 12m, 2 | |||||
10 |
★ Smooth Move
Classic Slab climbing, slippery polished foot holds and slippery crimps, but all the moves are there so keep looking. | 5.10b | 12m, 3 | |||||
11 | Tiny Tim | 5.9 | ||||||
12 | Yonge Street | 5.8 |
1.7.18. Delusion Rock 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Burnt Weenie Sandwich | 5.10b | ||||
2 | ★ Grand Delusion | 5.11a |
1.7.19. Upper Narrows 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 51.068812, -115.219393
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Trading Places | 5.10c | ||||
2 | ★ Undertow | 5.10c | ||||
3 | ★ Tabernaquered | 5.10d | ||||
4 | Open Project | |||||
5 | Mirage | 5.11d | ||||
6 | ★ Neorevisionist | 5.10 A0 | 2 | |||
7 | ★★ Magical Mystery Tour | 5.11b | ||||
8 | ★★ Modern Codgers | 5.10c | 120m, 5 |
1.7.20. Exit Wall 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.068945, -115.220113
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Open Project | |||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
2 | ★★ Blackened | 5.11c |
1.7.21. Armadillo Buttress 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 51.071738, -115.228251
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
No Place for a Friend
FA: R. Baillie & M. Toft | 5.9 | 90m | |||
2 |
Asylum
FA: D. Morgan, C. Yonge & C. Perry, 1984 | 5.10d | 100m | |||
3 |
★ Stimulus Cheque
Just left of Gift Card. Some questionable rock, short cruxes. FA: Matt Laird, 2020 | 5.11a | 80m, 3 | |||
4 |
Gift Card
This three pitch route is fully bolt protected with rap rings at each station. Gear required: 70m rope, 14 draws. FA: Ian Greant & Brian Spear, 2013 | 5.10c | 92m, 3 | |||
5 |
★★ Asylum Escape
Right of Gift Card, first pitch traverses right before climbing up through a corner. An unknown route heads up and left from the first anchor however the 2nd pitch of this route heads up and right into a large right facing corner. | 5.10d | 80m, 3, 13 |
1.7.22. Family Krag 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 51.073125, -115.229073
summary
Developed in 2020, Family Krag is a quiet area with a small selection of easier routes.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Dadio's Delight
Start up the slabby face just right of the right facing corner on good ledges. FA: Kim Heidel, Sep 2020 | 5.9 | 15m | |||||
2 |
Rainbow
FA: Kim Heidel, Sep 2020 | 5.5 | 15m, 4 | |||||
3 |
Marshmallow Unicorn
FA: Kim Heidel, Sep 2020 | 5.7 | 15m, 4 | |||||
4 |
Tyrannosaurus
FA: Kim Heidel, Sep 2020 | 5.6 | 13m, 4 |
1.7.23. Silk Cuts 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.075608, -115.233851
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Bolivian | 5.7 | 6 | |||
2 |
★★ Pushin' a Space Broom
FA: Greg Cornell, 1999 | 5.7 | 30m, 7 | |||
3 | Gotta Eagle to Feed | 5.7 | 3 | |||
4 | ★ Fallen Palms | 5.5 | 4 | |||
5 | Frankenclimbz | 5.7 | 3 | |||
6 | ★ Captains Courageous | 5.8 | 3 |
1.7.24. Upper Tier 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Fat City | 5.8 | ||||
2 | ★★ Excitable boy | 5.10d | ||||
3 | ★★ Mandala | 5.10c | ||||
4 | ★ Rat Patrol | 5.10c | ||||
5 | ★★ Search Pattern | 5.10b | ||||
6 | ★★ Facelift | 5.11a | ||||
7 | ★★ Squirrel Breath | 5.10b |
1.7.25. Garden Rock 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Pining Away | 5.9 | ||||
2 | ★★ Conifrer Crack | 5.10c | ||||
3 | Chainsaw Wall | 5.11c | ||||
4 | ★ All Spruced Up | 5.10a |
1.7.26. Hoodoo Crag 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Hoodlum | 5.10a | ||||
2 | ★ Hoodunit | 5.10a | ||||
3 | ★ Hoodini | 5.10b | ||||
4 | ★ Hoodoo You Love? | 5.10a | ||||
5 | Deadly Buds | 5.10b | ||||
6 | Hoor Tour | 5.10d | ||||
7 | Who're You? | 5.11b | ||||
8 | Hoodoo Voodoo | 5.10c |
1.7.27. Grotto Slab 21 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | North Corner | 5.5 | ||||
2 | Leftover Slab | 5.6 | ||||
3 | ★ Spring Thing | 5.5 | ||||
4 | ★ Fall Thing | 5.5 | ||||
5 | ★★ Runnel Route | 5.8 | ||||
6 | ★★ Wearing Thin | 5.10b | ||||
7 | ★ Spashdance | 5.11a | ||||
8 | ★ Alien | 5.9 | ||||
9 | ★★ Tfivial Pursuit | 5.8 | ||||
10 | ★★ Trivial Pursuit | 5.8 | ||||
11 | ★★ The Stand | 5.9 | ||||
12 | ★ Central Park | 5.6 | ||||
13 | ★ Space Cadet | 5.6 | ||||
14 | ★ Spacewalk | 5.7 | ||||
15 | ★ Cody for Mayor | 5.7 | ||||
16 | ★ Afternoon Delight | 5.5 | ||||
17 | ★ Old School Wannabe | 5.6 | ||||
18 | ★ Cruisin' for Burgers | 5.4 | ||||
19 | ★ Patty's Climb | 5.4 | ||||
20 | Pushing A Space Broom | 5.7 | ||||
21 | Gotta Eagle To Feed | 5.7 |
1.7.28. Aqua Slab 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Latacunga | 5.7 | ||||
2 | ★ Riobamba | 5.10a | ||||
3 | Snore King | 5.7 | ||||
4 | Swallow Your Pride | 5.7 | ||||
5 | Sea Horesing | 5.7 |
1.7.29. The Uncharted Sea 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
description
Sharp calcium slab, no shade or protection from elements and not a lot of room except to belay, if you wander you'll end up in grotto canyon a couple hundred feet below you!
approach
Omg Heinous approach, its a pain to even find the start of this route. it starts once your in the canyon for a few hundred meters then bends to the right, travel up the hill to your right and find the start of the path... approx 1.5 to 2 hrs later and a 250m elevation change you'll find the crag!
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ 30 Minute Famine | 5.7 | ||||
2 | ★★ Like a Big-wall Climber from Modesto Who's Never Been to Yosemite | 5.5 | ||||
3 | Teflon Ocean Wall | 5.8 | ||||
4 | Barbecued Planet | 5.7 | ||||
5 | Poop-a-si-a | 5.10a | ||||
6 | Leave Something Witchie | 5.9 | ||||
7 | Kamloops for Breakfast | 5.8 | ||||
8 | Iron Knickers | 5.9 | ||||
9 | Crypt Trip | 5.9 |
1.8. Bonsai Boulders 44 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: 51.062063, -115.043386
summary
Good beginner bouldering area near Seebe, AB. The rock is conglomerate and can be a bit sharp.
description
The area consists of a few sub areas, hiding within a fairly dense forest. The trail is well marked and maintained by WABA.
access issues
Be mindful of the equestrian riders who share the trail.
1.8.1. The Cottage 19 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 51.062043, -115.043354
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ The Hearth
Follow the prow using the crack and arete to the left. Sit start with a match on the undercling. | V3 | ||||
2 | Goldilocks Arete | V2 | ||||
3 |
★ Shared Spaces
Crouch start. Climbs the layback feature just to the right of the large tree. Shares the same finish as the CMC traverse. | V1 | ||||
4 | Goldilocks Low | V6 | ||||
5 | ★ CMC Traverse | V0 | ||||
6 |
★★★ Prow'd
This climb tackles the obvious arete with the loose starting block. Sit start with two hands on the under cling block feature. work up the block feature on the arete until you can lunge up to good sloper. Most people duck out left to top out but it can be finished with a hard mantle following a direct line up the arete. The direct finish is a slightly harder grade | V3 | ||||
7 | ★★ Papa Bear | V3 | ||||
8 | ★ Heathstone | V4 | ||||
9 | Hearthstoned | V5 | ||||
10 |
The apple
Visible slab that can been seen if you are approaching the cottage boulder from "The Garden" (Main) area. Needs some more cleaning. | V0 | ||||
11 | Goldilocks Traverse | V6 | ||||
12 | Rooftop Traverse | V2 | ||||
13 |
The worm
Crack feature found to the left of the slab | V0 | ||||
14 |
The Gardener
Slightly to the right of the Prow'd arete. Jump to the lip and mantle to the top. | V2 | ||||
15 |
Neighbours
Climbs the blunt arete on the other side of the passage between the boulders. | V1 | ||||
16 | CMC Extendo Traverse | V4 | ||||
17 | In for a Penny, in for a Pound | V1 | ||||
18 | More Than I Bargained For | V1 | ||||
19 | The Core | V0 |
1.8.2. Lil’Un 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Thrutch | V2 | ||||
2 | ★★ Moss Traverse | V0 | ||||
3 | ★ Up and Over | V1 | ||||
4 | ★★★ The Mantle | V1 |
1.8.3. Forget me Knot 2 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Forgotten
Stand start. Begins on the right side of west face of boulder and climbs up trending leftwards. | V0 | ||||
2 |
Oubliette
Stand Start on the same face as forgotten. Begin on the left side of face and climb the crack/dish trending right. | V0 |
1.8.4. The Garden 19 routes in Field
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 51.062043, -115.043354
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Boat People
Just left of the arete, it starts on a left hand crimp rail moving to a left hand undercling. The climb then goes up the face using a left hand crimp and terrible side pulls. | V4 | ||||
2 |
★★ Snow White
Originally graded as a V2, this one starts under the overhanging corner at basically a lay down start. Both hands start on the undercling. | V4 | ||||
3 | Dopey | V4 | ||||
4 | ★ Dreaming of Font | V0 | ||||
5 |
The Money Problem
Sit start with left hand on undercling and right hand on a crimp. | V6 | ||||
6 |
Bashful
Climbs the small crack feature on the east face of the main blocks up to the big jug horn. | V2 | ||||
7 | Happy / the pocket problem | V1 | ||||
8 | The Seven Dwarves | V5 | ||||
9 | North West Arete | V0 | ||||
10 | ★ Soth West Arete | V0 | ||||
11 | The Money Mantle | V4 | ||||
12 |
Sleepy
Sit start left of bashful on the blunt edge of the rock. The climb traverse right past an obvious horn which is part of bashful, remain low until the end of the lower rail, then make some powerful moves to the lip. | V3 | ||||
13 | Cornered | V2 | ||||
14 | Sneezy | V1 | ||||
15 |
Doc
Sit start on the jugs and pull up to the slab for a challenging finish. | V3 | ||||
16 |
Dopey Traverse
Start as per dopey and traverses into Sleepy. Finish the climb on Sleepy for the top out. | V3 | ||||
17 | Shark attack | VB | ||||
18 | ★ Infidelity | V2 | ||||
19 |
★ SouthWest Arête
VB if you trend right | V0 |
1.9. Windtower 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 50.989556, -115.289750
summary
A very cool looking peak just to the south of Rimwall. Several established routes offer good climbing and there is plenty of scope for harder routes on the steep north face.
approach
As for Rimwall. Drive 22km up the Smith-Dorrein Spray Lakes Road once past the Grassi Lakes day use area and park at the pullout for the Spurling Creek trail. Head up the trail to the col between the Windtower and Rimwall gaining about 500m elevation. Descend onto the scree slopes below the col and traverse under the face of the Windtower to your chosen adventure.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Le Jour le plus long
Starts 40m right of the Homer-Wood route at the base of 2 left leaning cracks. This route was established on-sight, ground up and hammerless in a 36hr push car to car. Pretty impeccable style considering the compact nature of the rock in this area. P1 - Move into a left facing corner to a loose-looking overhang. Pull through on the left and traverse left on good holds to a crack. (40m, 5.10dR) P2 - Follow the crack (50m, 5.10a). P3 - Follow the crack (20m, 5.9). P4 - Continue up the crack past 2 small overhangs. (45m, 5.10c). P5 - Continue up the crack. (60m, 5.8). P6 - Step left to a flake then follow back right to the same crack system and continue up. (50m, 5.9). P7 - Continue up the crack. (60m, 5.9). P8 - Step up and right to a left facing corner and follow this up to belay below a roof. (45m, 5.10a). P9 - Continue up and left to a shallow right facing corner then shallow left facing corner to belay on a ledge on the left below a steep corner with blocks. (60m, 5.10a). P10 - Step right to a right facing corner which you climb until it starts to trend further right. Here step left to a left facing corner following it up to a ledge which intersects with the Homer-Wood route. (55m, 5.10a). P11 - Climb the crack to a roof, step right then continue up the crack to easier ground. (50m, 5.10a). Follow lots of 4th class scrambling until you intersect with the ridge and then several more rope lengths of low 5th class to the summit. FA: Remy Bernier & Francois Roy, 2000 | 5.11 R | 540m, 10 | |||
2 |
★★ NW Face (aka Homer-Wood)
One of the finer alpine rock routes in the area with interesting climbing, good pro and generally good rock (for the Rockies of course!). Approach by traversing along the base of the North Face and rather than drop to the base of the face, traverse in on scree covered ledges. Follow ledges leftwards for some distance past a set of prominent left leaning cracks and continue for approximately 35m past these to the end of the ledge. You should be down and left of a right facing corner with a prominent flake. P1 - Begin below the middle of three right facing corners (quite shallow), moving up to belay at the base of the corner. (30m 5.7). P2 - Climb the corner for 15m then follow a crack in the left wall. Move left to a right facing corner with a wide crack which you climb to a belay. (45m, 5.10a). P3 - Move up and right over a roof to a groove, climbing this before moving up and left to ledges. Continue up and right on run-out terrain to reach a straight crack, climbing this to belay as high as possible. (50m, 5.8). P4 - Continue up the crack to a ledge below a wet chimney. The length depends on where you set the last belay. (45-55m 5.8). P5 - Step left into a corner climbing this before moving left again over a roof and continuing up to a bolt at the base of a dihedral. Climb the dihedral to a large and bolt belay. (55m, 5.10a). P6 - Traverse left along the ledge before moving up and right on sloping ledges to a flake. Climb past fixed pins then left to ledges, belaying on the highest ledge below an obvious dihedral. (45m, 5.9). P7 - Climb a wide crack for 10m before stepping right to climb extremely loose rock to ledges and a piton. Continue up to a bolt belay on a higher ledge. (50m, 5.9). P8 & 9 - Move up and left to a crack in the dihedral which you will follow for 2 pitches to ledges at the top. Move left to easier ground before scrambling up and right to a belay at a large detached flake. (115m, 5.7). P10 - Go behind the flake to a ledge, continuing onto the large slab on the right of the scoop. Traverse right to an easy groove before moving right again to fixed pitons. Climb down and left for 5m to a nice and belay here or at an exposed ledge a short distance higher on the right. (60m, 5.8). P11 - From the lower belay, move up to the ledge then easily right. Climb a short ramp on the left side of an arete to gain access to a corner. Follow the corner until below an obvious crack to the right of a wet and very uninviting chimney. (25m, 5.10a). P12 - Climb the crack to a roof then step right to a ledge. Step back left to the crack when possible and go up to easy ground (50m, 5.10a). The remainder of the climb is straightforward but time-consuming. Continue on mainly 4th class terrain to join the NE right before climbing several pitches of low 5th class to the summit. FA: George Homer & Rob Wood, 1972 | 5.10a | 520m, 11 | |||
3 |
★ North Buttress
Approach as for the Homer-Wood however continue along the base to the left side of the buttress. Climb up and right onto the edge of the buttress and continue up into an easy gully on 5.6 terrain. Follow this low-angled section before moving left to a corner crack (5.9) which is climbed in 2 pitches to slabs. Continue up the NE Ridge and follow this to the summit on mostly low 5th class terrain. FA: Trevor Jones & Chris Perry, 1983 | 5.9 | 350m, 6 |
1.10. Rimwall 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 50.996324, -115.309932
summary
Peak Rimwall (2685m) is a large clean face you can't help but stare at when driving on Highway 1 into Canmore.
description
Routes on the face have an alpine feel with generally limited to no bolts for runners or anchors. However access is close and if you top out its an easy walk off the backside. Rock quality is reasonably good by Rockies standards.
approach
Drive along the Smith-Dorrien Spray Trail from Canmore for about 22km once past the Grassi Lakes day use area. Park at the obvious pullout for Spurling Creek trail. Hike up the obvious trail to the col between Rimwall and Windtower gaining around 500m elevation.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Pinko
A fantastic all-trad route following major corner systems up the climber's left hand side of the face. Rock quality throughout is pretty good however there are some suspect sections on a few pitches including one of the crux pitches. Retreat would require leaving gear and it would be hard to retreat high on the face after the traverse. Pitches are generally 40-50m long. Traverse along the base of the face until you reach the first prominent right facing corner system. Gear - We carried a standard rack to 4 inches with doubles to 3 inches. A second 4 inch cam would be useful in places. P1 - climb the corner to a belay (40m 5.9). P2 - Continue up the corner to ledges (40m 5.8). P3 - Stay in the corner using the left hand of 2 cracks. Continue up to a mossy ledge (55m 5.9+). P4 - Traverse left around the arete and move to the base of the next corner system (20m, 5.4). P5 - Climb up a grove/corner to a steeper crack with great jams past one ledge to a ledge with a piton. Continue above and belay on the next ledge (55m 5.10a). P6 - Traverse hard left with minimal gear to a steep wall. Climb the wall to a ledge below a roof (40m 5.7R). P7 - We felt this was the crux pitch. Traverse right to a groove and climb initially on poor rock into a chimney. Awkward moves into the chimney lead to a roof. Pull the roof then step left into another wide groove. Continue up to a steep slab with poor rock but a beautifully solid crack above. Climb this to a ledge and belay (5.10a 55m). P8 - Climb short shallow corners traversing left then downclimb to a belay about 20m below a rotten roof. (30m 5.7). P9 - Climb out left up a wide crack then left up a steep slab with some friable rock and intermittent cracks. Climb to a roof then step left for a semi-hanging belay (55m 5.9). P10 - Step up and right and pull through a small roof atop a groove. Work you way to the top of the wall (30m 5.8). FA: George Homer & Jon Jones, 1972 | 5.10a | 420m, 10 | |||
2 |
★ The Gambler
200m right of Pinko under a system of corners which run almost the entire height of the face. Unsure if this route has ever seen a repeat. P1 - Climb the corner and traverse left to a belay (50m 5.7). P2 - Climb into a steep parallel-sided groove to a good ledge (45m 5.9). P3 - Move left a climb a right facing corner. Continue up a second corner for 5m before traversing right onto a ledge (40m 5.9). P4 - Move right along the ledge to a left facing corner. Climb for 5m before traversing left to a ledge. Move along the ledge to climb a short off-width. Continue left then back right to the base of a loose left facing corner (45m 5.9). P5 - Traverse back down and left to climb a left facing corner to reach a ledge. Continue up a second blind left facing corner on the ledge of the ledge until it is possible to traverse right along a break for 10m to a belay. (40m 5.9). P6 - Climb the corner to a bolt, move up and left to a ramp system into a large left facing corner. Climb the corner to a good stance. (50m, 5.10c). P7 - Continue up the corner past a ledge to a second ledge at the base of another left facing corner (50m 5.10). P8 - Climb the corner for about 35m before traversing right to a second corner which you follow to a ledge. Belay on the right of this ledge (50m 5.10). P9 - Traverse right along the ledge until below a short steep crack leading to a ramp (80m 5.4). P10 - Climb the crack with difficult to a ramp climbing up the ramp for 10m to a steep wall. Climb down and right then up the steep wall continuing up and right to a jam crack. This pitch is dangerously run-out. (50m, 5.11a R). P11 - Go up and left to a loose crack and ramp. Climb up and left on the ramp to a ledge (45m 5.9). P12 - Pull onto a ledge and climb a slab to an overhang before traversing left until possible to move up and over the overhang to the summit (30m). FA: S DeMaio, Choc Quinn & J Sevigny, 1987 | 5.11a R | 580m, 12 | |||
3 |
★★★ Murder by Numbers
Rock is reported to be good though compact with a selection of pitons required for both runners and belays. Approach as for Candle in the Wind hiking along the NE face until 30-40m right of the prominent wet streak. Gear - full rack to 3 inches including micro cams. 6 pitons, mostly knifeblades and 60m ropes. The first 6 pitches are set up for rappel. P1 - Climb a left facing corner before heading left to under a roof then right to a small ledge at a left facing corner. (55m 5.6). P2 - Climb a series of small corners and belay on a ledge at the base of a right facing corner (50m, 5.10-). P3 - Climb the corner to reach a curving crack out right before heading back left to belay at the base of a scree gully (55m 5.9). P4 - Move the belay 10m higher then climb a series of right facing corners and a small chimney to a belay (55m 5.7). P5 - Climb another short chimney and then a large pinnacle. Head right along a ledge to the base of a left facing corner and belay bolt. (50m, 5.6). P6 - Climb to the left of the corner and belay on a small ledge. (30m 5.10+). P7 - Work up and left to a 2 bolt belay below a small roof. (20m, 5.10-). P8 - Climb a short steep slab past 3 bolts before continuing up long angle slabs to a belay. (55m 5.11). P9 - Climb a right trending slot to a large ledge before continuing up corners to a second ledge. (60m 5.7). P10 - Head up short corners and slot to reach 3rd class terrain which leads to the summit. (25m 5.10-). FA: Dana Ruddy & Raphael Slawinski, 2007 | 5.11 | ||||
4 |
★★★ Candle in the Wind
This route ascends the prow which separates the NW and NE face on Rimwall. P1 - start up the prow passing an overhang on the right. Belay back on the crest. (45m, 5.6). P2 - Climb a small corner just right of the ridge and belay on easy ground. (45m 5.6). P3 - Scramble up the remainder of the ridge to a slabby area below the steep upper wall. (45m). P4 - Climb directly up the slab and belay at the base of the upper wall. (45m 5.4). P5 - Move only slightly left and through an overhang, continuing up a crack including a short off-width section near the top to belay in a corner. (45m, 5.9). P6 - Climb the corner a few meters before traversing right to another corner to avoid loose blocks above. Continue up to a small ledge before climbing past 2 bolts and a piton on a steep wall towards the left of a large overhang. Belay in a corner with a sloping ledge above the level of the overhang (fixed pin). (35m, 5.10c). P7 - Continue up the corner over a small overhang to a ledge on the right. (35m, 5.10a). P8 - Head right to a shallow corner and bolt. Traverse directly right to slightly easier ground before heading up and left to belay ledges. (40m, 5.9). P9 - Move right to a loose, meandering crack before stepping right at the top to scree covered ledges and a piton belay. (50m, 5.10a). P10 - Climb a water groove and a mossy crack to ledges. (50m, 5.10a). Scramble 15m to the top of the wall. FA: Allan Derbyshire & Jim Visser, 1992 | 5.10c |
1.11. EEOR 37 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 51.074796, -115.418450
description
Extensively covered in its own chapter of Banff Rock (http://banffrock.ca).
approach
Access via a climber's trail across the road from a wide pull-out a few hundred metres before the Goat Creek parking lot. In 20-25 minutes, you should arrive at the base of Parallel Dreams/True Grit; follow the trail at the base of the cliffs to access other climbs.
See Banff Rock for further information.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Raptor
FA: Mark Whalen & D. Bartrom, 1994 | 5.10c | 220m | |||||
2 |
Fumbles
FA: M Dahlie & P Smith, 1980 | 5.7 | 450m | |||||
3 | ★★ Parallel Dreams | 5.11a | 180m, 5 | |||||
4 |
★★★ Alt-Left
This route offers great rock and gear and bolts where gear is not available. It was originally climbed at 11b AO however the roof has since been freed at a grade of around 12a. A must do! Gear: Standard rack to 3 inches with doubles in most sizes. A haul rope is helpful for some of the harder pitches which are quite steep. Approach as for True Grit. Climb starts around 15m to the left of a lone pine tree at the base of the wall. The first bolt has a black hanger. P1- 50m,5.9: Climb up on good rock with some delicate moves to a good ledge and anchor after 30m. Either belay here or preferably ascend another 20m (5.8) to a bolted anchor on a loose ledge. P2 - 30m,5.10c: Move right on the ledge and crank up a few moves beside the crack. Stem up the corner feature then step left when possible. Great moves on solid stone above. P3 - 35m,5.10d: Ascend an easy staircase with increasing difficulty into a shallow v groove. Technical climbing on superb rock for a few bolts leads to a ledge. Look for the secret left hand side pull to get over the overlap above. P4 - 35m,5.9: Ascend easily up a right facing corner to a stemming crux on gear. Continue up easier terrain to a nice belay ledge (small rack to #2/nuts will suffice) P5 - 30m,5.9: Step right and ascend a straightforward pitch to the belay where the wall steepens. From the top of this pitch retreat is straightforward with a 70m rope. P6 - 30m,5.10d: Traverse up and right on slightly fractious rock past 7 bolts to a traverse finger rail. In a good horizontal, place a 0.3 and 0.5 bd cam before launching straight up past another 2 bolts and the hanging anchor. P7- 30m,5.11a/b: Climb straight up from the belay on steep and featured rock with bolts. Halfway up the pitch the character changes to a layback/ stemming gear corner (thin to mid sized gear), and a final bolt before moving out right to the belay. An amazing pitch. P8 - 30m,5.10d A0: Technical stemming/ face climbing past 4 bolts leads to a step out left and a nice gear crack. Climb up this to a small undercling roof. Step back right (bolt) and up to a small crack leading to the big and wild roof. Currently the next 5 bolts are A0 with a large gap between the 1st and 2nd bolts. A small cam can be placed to shorten the gap. P9 - 30m,5.11b: A spectacular pitch. Climb 5 bolts past finger jugs and an undercling section. After this transition into the technical stemming corner on gear and 1 bolt. A few metres above the bolt at a finger rail head right into a rest. Climb up past another bolt then step back left to a small belay stance. P10 - 35m,5.8: Head up left from the belay onto a slab of perfect rock to finish. From the top anchor scramble about 100m up before accessing easier ground to meet up with the regular EEOR scramble route descent trail. FA: Marc Piche & Steve Holeczi, 15 Aug 2016 | 5.11b A0 | 340m, 10 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
5 |
★★ True Grit / True Grit variant
Most of the route has been retrofitted with 8mm ring bolts, and new rap chains. More run out than the average sports route. Last 2 pitches often combined, but can be split at the rap station to do it in 6 pitches. Variant: As for true Grit, but on pitch 3 take the left line of bolts up an arête (5.10c). FA: M. Whalen & S. Davis, 1990 | 5.10a - c | 170m, 6 | |||||
6 |
★★ Geriatric
FA: J. Jones & B. Greenwood, 1975 | 5.8 | 240m, 7 | |||||
7 |
Econoline
FA: B Spear, H Hall & S Chambers, 1999 | 5.10a | 260m, 7 | |||||
8 |
Lucky Dog
Located above 'True Grit' FA: P Giguere & J Racette, 1997 | 5.10a | 80m | |||||
9 |
Reprobate Left Finish
Pitches 1-7 same as 'Reprobate'. Alteration veers left near the top of pitch 7. FA: C Quinn & C Perry, 1985 | 5.9 | 460m, 11 | |||||
10 | ★★ Reprobate | 5.7 A0 | 470m | |||||
11 | Quasar | 5.9 | 430m, 13 | |||||
12 |
Deviance Variation
Variant start and finish to the right of 'Quasar'. FA: M Hartley & K Dube, 1996 | 5.9 | ||||||
13 |
★★ Eeyore's Tail
Start 100m right of the toe of the buttress, scrambling up Right side of 10 m high square block. Possible to rap up to pitch 8 with double ropes, otherwise walk down tourist route for Mt Rundle. Bolts have replaced most of the piton. FA: R. Nelson & B. Stark, 1977 | 5.8 | 360m | |||||
14 | Anasinusdephobia | 5.11a | 470m, 11 | |||||
15 |
Misguided Variation
Climbs the first 6 pitches of "Guides' Route" then goes left. FA: P Stoliker & D Pauls, 1985 | 5.7 | 160m | |||||
16 |
Guides' Route
Most pitches are low 5th grade. Much soloing and many variations possible. | 5.6 | 660m, 16 | |||||
17 |
★★ Free Fall
Variant start to "Guides' Route", starting to the right and joining "Guides' Route" at the top of pitch 9 at the bottom of the big chimney. Then, continue up the chimney as two pitches to meet "Guides' Route" again at the start of pitch 13. Then follows "Guides' Route" to the top. FA: E Dumarac, T Wolfe & P Norrie, 1998 | 5.9 | 400m | |||||
18 |
★★★ Generosity
Redirected and much more popular variation to Free Fall. FA: E Dumerac & P Norrie, 1998 | 5.9 | 400m, 13 | |||||
19 | Balzout | 5.9 WI4 M5 V | 480m, 12 | |||||
20 |
Balzac
FA: U Kallen & M Toft, 1972 FFA: J Martin & C Perry, 1979 | 5.8 | 450m | |||||
21 |
★★ Dropout
FA: C Perry & M White, 1982 | 5.9 | 450m | |||||
22 |
Mackay Route
FA: L MacKay, D Vockeroth & J White, 1972 FA: C Perry & M White, 1981 FFA: R Lanthier & and party, 1986 | 5.10a | 490m | |||||
23 |
★★ Girls Lie
There are bolts on harder sections. | 5.11 | 550m, 14 | |||||
24 |
North Ridge
FA: C Scott & D Smith, 1972 | 5.7 | 400m |
1.11.1. Old Goat Crag 13 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.064332, -115.419188
summary
This south facing cliff is north of the Goat Creek parking lot, with routes in the 5.5-5.10d range
description
A small collection of bolted sport climbs on limestone typical of this area. Short approach from the Goat Creek parking lot, where most typically park to hike EEOR or Ha Ling.
approach
10 minute walk up a steep slope from the Goat Creek lot
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Hermit | 5.8 | 4 | |||
2 | Slabbatical | 5.5 | 6 | |||
3 | ★★ Nubian | 5.9 | 23m, 10 | |||
4 | ★ Tombstone | 5.7 | 5 | |||
5 | ★★ Ziggy | 5.10a | 7 | |||
6 | ★ Really Gets My Goat | 5.8 | 6 | |||
7 | Billy Goat | 5.9 | 5 | |||
8 | Stubborn Old Goat | 5.10c | 10 | |||
9 | Curse of the Billy Goat | 5.10b | 6 | |||
10 | Reunion | 5.10b | 6 | |||
11 | Deadwood | 5.10d | 5 | |||
12 |
★ Goat's Head Soup
First pitch before Dancing with Mr D. Past Stubborn Old Goat. | 5.9 | 10 | |||
13 |
★ Dancing with Mr D
The 2nd pitch after Goat's Head Soup. 35m to the ground and can be done as one single pitch with a 70m rope. | 5.7 | 6 |
1.12. Kanga Crag 42 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Sport climbing and other styles
Lat / Long: 51.067223, -115.419112
1.12.1. Kanga, Left 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Aid climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Mysterioso | 5.10b | 37m | |||
2 | Cruela | 5.11a | 20m | |||
3 | ★ Chief Chiniki Burgers | A2+ | 20m | |||
4 | Rez Dogs | A3 | 20m | |||
5 | Brik Shiite Shak | 5.10d | 18m | |||
6 | Low Life | 5.11a | 30m | |||
7 | Riff Raff | 5.10d | 20m | |||
8 | Freeblast | 5.8 | 16m |
1.12.2. Kanga, Main Wall Left 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Aid climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Canadian Air | 5.12a | 50m | |||
2 | Leave Your Hat On | 5.12a | 50m | |||
3 | Canadian Cookie | 5.10a | 45m | |||
4 | California Dreaming | 5.10b | 45m | |||
5 | ★★ Alberta Reality | 5.11c | ||||
6 | Roo'd Awakening | 5.11b | 28m | |||
7 | Tourette's Syndrome | 5.11a | 28m | |||
8 | The Final Battle | A3+ | 28m | |||
9 | Silent Partner | A1 | 15m |
1.12.3. Kanga, Main Wall Right 6 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Fowl Play | 5.10b | 35m | |||
2 | ★ Superior Cackling Chickens | 5.10b | 35m | |||
3 | ★★ Rocky and Me | 5.11a | 55m | |||
4 | ★★ Rub Me Right | 5.10b | 20m | |||
5 | Toucha Toucha Me | 5.10a | 35m | |||
6 | Pit Bull Terr-EEOR | 5.9 | 25m |
1.12.4. Spud Wall 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Green Eggs and Yam | 5.6 | 25m | |||
2 | I Yam What I Yam | 5.7 | 25m | |||
3 | Yamorama | 5.10b | 25m | |||
4 | Y'am Bored | 5.7 | 22m |
1.12.5. Raptor Wall 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Little Corner Climb | 5.5 | ||||
2 | Shark Attack | 5.11b | ||||
3 | Battle of the Bulge | 5.11c | ||||
4 | Blue Wonder Powder Milk | 5.11c | ||||
5 |
★ Raptor
The same as 'Raptor' on 'EEOR'. FA: Mark Whalen & D Bartrom | 5.10c | 220m, 9 | |||
6 |
★★ Parallel Dreams
The same as 'Parallel Dreams' on 'EEOR'. | 5.11a | 180m, 5 | |||
7 | ★★ True Grit | 5.10c | 180m, 6 |
1.12.6. Head Bangers Rock 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | The Banger in Tights | 5.8 | ||||
2 | Feathered Hair | 5.11b |
1.12.7. Canmore Junkyards 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Ice climbing
Lat / Long: 51.074354, -115.404083
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ Canmore Junkyards | {AU} WI3 | 60m |
1.12.8. Kanga upper left wall 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Damiens Island | 5.7 | 60m |
1.12.9. Whiteman Crag 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Die Young Stay Pretty | 5.10b | 80m | |||
2 |
★ Sharknado
FA: Gaby James & Brandon Pullan, 2014 | 5.8 | 100m, 4 | |||
3 |
★ Hot Fuzz
FA: Brandon Pullan & Darren Vonk, 2013 | 5.8 | 80m, 2 | |||
4 |
★★ Godzilla
FA: Brandon Pullan & David Smart, Jun 2018 | 5.9 | 100m, 4 |
1.13. Viagra Point 2 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 51.064735, -115.411981
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Cunning Linguist | 5.11b | ||||
2 | Dirk Diggler | 5.11c |
1.14. Ha Ling Peak 9 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 51.064848, -115.400299
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Sisyphus Summits
FA: R. Chayer, H. Lenny, G. Hill, H. Lenny & G. Hill, 1994 | 5.10d | 600m, 21 | |||||
2 |
★★ Northeast Face / NE Face
Parking UTM 11U 0611200E 5658800N elevation 1700m Park at the upper Grassi Lakes/EEOR parking area beside Whitemans Pond, 6.2km west on Three Sisters Parkway, from the intersection with Three Sisters Drive. Approach Walk back towards Canmore and follow the service road across the dam to its end. Head up 20m into the trees to the main trail. The Riders of Rohan mountain biking trail starts here. Follow the trail to the right 25m to the climbers trail. The best trail heads up and right staying mostly in the trees under Quick Release before traversing under the north face. There is a large cairn at the end of the face. The direct start begins here. For the normal route, continue across to a tree island and back up right to the base of the slab. Base of Route UTM 11U 0612400E 5658200N Elevation 2100m Recommended Rack C4 #.3 – 3, 8 Alpine Draws Direct Start (5.7): See 'Northeast Face Direct'. Regular Route (5.6)
Descend via the hikers' trail to the Goat Creek parking lot and walk back along the road to the parking. FA: B. Greenwood, G. Prinz, D. Raubach & W Twelker, 1961 | 5.6 | 440m, 12 | |||||
3 |
Northeast Face Direct / NE Face Direct
Three new pitches were equipped by Patrick Delaney giving a direct start variation to the Northeast Face. From the cairn below the NE Face, continue 20m along the approach trail. Scramble up a shallow depression and back right 20m to 2 bolts below a black roof.
Scramble 25m to join the belay at the base of first 3rd pitch of the regular Northeast Face route. FA: Patrick Delaney FA: G. Prinz, D. Raubach, W Twelker, B. Greenwood & W. Twelker, 1961 | 5.7 | 460m, 13 | |||||
4 |
★ Orient Express Variation
A variation to the left in the middle of the route avoids the crux of 'Orient Express Direct' FA: D. Cheesmond & U. Kallen, 1983 FFA: D. Morgan & C. Perry, 1983 | 5.9 | 550m | |||||
5 |
Orient Express Direct
The original version of Orient Express. FA: J. Firth, C. Perry & M. Sawyer, 1976 FA: R. Debeyer & R. Slawinski, 1999 | 5.11d | 520m, 13 | |||||
6 |
★★ Remembrance Wall
Starts right of 'Orient Express Direct' and merges at the top FA: S. DeMaio & J. Marshall, 1987 FFA: R. Slawinski & E. Dumerac, 1999 | 5.11b | 560m | |||||
7 |
★★ Premature Ejaculation
FA: D. Cheesmond & B. Gross, 1985 | 5.10b | 400m, 9 | |||||
8 |
★ Quick Release
FA: J. Bauer & T. Jones, 1976 | 5.10a | 360m, 9 | |||||
9 |
Finishing Touch
Direct finish to 'Quick Release' FA: B. Gross, B. Baxter & C. Quinn, 1985 | 5.10a | 370m, 9 |
1.15. Canmore Wall 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Centurion
FA: C. Quinn & C. Perry, 1998 | 5.10b A1 | 360m, 10 | |||
2 |
Kurihara / Jiro Kurihara Memorial Route
FA: Christoph Hummel, Mike Shoemaker, Christoph Spiegel, Aki Tawara & Patrick Lindsay, 2011 FFA: Christoph Hummel, Michael Duerr & Hubi Zilbauer, 2011 | 5.10d | 430m, 10, 73 | |||
3 |
Lex
FA: D. Marra & B. Lawrence, 1998 | 5.9 | 280m, 7 | |||
4 |
Northwest Ridge
FA: M. Piche & D. Thom, 1995 | 5.5 | 400m |
1.16. The Stoneworks 55 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.125746, -115.334166
description
Generally steep and short climbing on water polished limestone. Described by one local as 'the crag if Grotto Canyon and Carrot Creek had a child'
access issues
Access is next to a Golf Course. Please be discreet with parking and be respectful to others by minimizing noise and not loitering.
approach
Park at Silvertips Golf Course then follow the track at the end of the road. At the main intersection take a left heading uphill until you reach the main drainage. Either find a faint trail on the right hand side of the drainage or head directly up until you enter the gorge and the climbing.
1.16.1. Lower South Side 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ So It's a Sport Climb | 5.10b | ||||
2 | ★ Wings of Desire | 5.11d | ||||
3 | ★★ Spider in a Tub | 5.11c | ||||
4 | ★ Kali | 5.10a | ||||
5 | ★ Loki | 5.9 | ||||
6 | ★ runners on 'Roids | 5.11a | ||||
7 | ★ Girl Muscles | 5.9 | ||||
8 | ★ Clip Trip | 5.10a | ||||
9 | ★★ Power Hour | 5.11c |
1.16.2. The UnderWorld 5 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Access Line | 5.9 | ||||
2 | ★★ Wise Guys | 5.10d | ||||
3 | Debauchery | 5.12c X | ||||
4 | ★★ Capone | 5.11b | ||||
5 | ★ Younger Than Yesterday | 5.11b |
1.16.3. Upper North Side 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Cro Magnon | 5.10b | ||||
2 | ★ Klingon War | 5.11d | ||||
3 | Slap Shot | 5.12d | ||||
4 | ★★ Hat Trick | 5.11b | ||||
5 | ★★ Penguin Lust | 5.10b | ||||
6 | ★★ Electric Ocean | 5.11a | ||||
7 |
★★★ The Anvil
Second route from the right. Power up the small pockets to a slab encounter, then manage the easier terrain above. | 5.13a | 12m, 8 | |||
8 | ★★ Blue Lotus | 5.12b | ||||
9 | ★★ Love and Death | 5.11c |
1.16.4. Upper South Side 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Under the Gun | 5.10c | ||||
2 | ★ Brent's Big Birthday | 5.12b | ||||
3 | ★ Holey Redeemer Direct | 5.11a | ||||
4 | ★ Holey Redeemer | 5.10b | ||||
5 | ★ Baby Buoux | 5.9 | ||||
6 | ★ Junior Woodchuck Jamboree | 5.10c | ||||
7 | ★ Boy Scout Fundraiser | 5.10b | ||||
8 | ★★ Of Merging Ages | 5.12a X |
1.16.5. Weird Wall 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ When the Going Gets Weird | 5.10c | ||||
2 | ★★ the Weird Turn Pro | 5.11a | ||||
3 | ★★ Gravity Rodeo | 5.11b | ||||
4 | ★ Weird Noises | 5.10b |
1.16.6. The Arcade 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Cyberpunk
FA: Jon jones | 5.11a | ||||
2 | ★ The Sentinel | 5.10a | ||||
3 | ★ Superstition | 5.10c | ||||
4 | ★★ The Tempest | 5.10b | ||||
5 | ★★ Project C | 5.11b | ||||
6 | ★★ Black Magic | 5.11a | ||||
7 | ★ Shadowland | 5.10b | ||||
8 | ★ Serenade | 5.10b | ||||
9 | Basic Black | 5.10a |
1.16.7. Vsion Cave 11 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
description
The Cave up-hill from Arcade.
Named after the beloved Canmore climbing gym which sadly had to close it's doors some years ago.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Wicked Games
The must do 5.12! Starts on the right side lipnof the cave. Technical the whole way with 3 distinct cruxes. FA: Francois Bergeron, 6 May 2016 | 5.12b | 27m, 12 | |||
2 |
★★ Post Cyber Punk
The extension of Cyber Punk. Technical with some intricate sequences! Manage the pump carefully | 5.11d | 30m, 2, 16 | |||
3 |
★★ Yoda the Tortoise Escapes Again
FA: Evan Hau, 29 Jul 2018 | 5.13c | ||||
4 |
★★ Internet Pitchfork Mob
FA: Evan Hau, 16 Aug 2018 | 5.12d | ||||
5 | Mental Warefare | 5.12c/d | 12 | |||
6 | ★ The Hound | 5.12c | ||||
7 |
Bow Valley Challenge
Named after a fun boulder competition the Vsion used to host called Bow Valley Challenge. Set: Evan Hau, 2017 FFA: Evan Hau, 29 Aug 2020 | 5.14d | ||||
8 |
Unpredictable Landings
FA: Evan Hau, 15 Aug 2020 | 5.12d | ||||
9 |
Just Married
FA: Evan Hau, 27 Apr 2018 | 5.14a | ||||
10 | Cyber Punk | 5.11b | 7 | |||
11 |
★★★ Plastic Man
FA: Evan Hau, 8 Sep 2019 | 5.13c |
1.17. Grotto Corner 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 51.061878, -115.239981
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Grotto Crack | 5.8 | 70m | |||
2 | Jughaul Wall | 5.7 | 110m | |||
3 | Pasta Jam | 5.9 | 110m | |||
4 | Heartburn | 5.8 | 120m |
1.18. Crag X 13 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 51.061361, -115.225684
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ X-terminator | 5.10c | 26m | |||
2 |
★ Sideline
Mostly bolted but bring nuts and cams from #0.5-#3. All bolted belays. Rap or walk off. | 5.9 | 60m, 3 | |||
3 |
Sideline Variations
Many bolts but bring gear to 3" | 5.9 | 60m, 2 | |||
4 | ★ Double Cross | 5.10c | 27m | |||
5 | ★ Double Cross Direct | 5.12a | 27m | |||
6 | ★ Mainline | 5.10c | 35m | |||
7 | Mr Clean | 5.11b/c | 65m, 2 | |||
8 | ★★ Saigon Kiss | 5.11d | 30m | |||
9 | ★ Bombs Away | 5.11c | 30m | |||
10 |
★★ Bandits at 2 O'Clock
Either belay from the chain anchor on the ledge 5 m up, or from the trail below. Can TR from the ground with a 60 m rope but it's a rope stretcher. 70 m is easier. 10 clips including the anchor if starting from the ground. This is the access pitch for Pilot Error and Both Guns Blazing. | 5.11b | 30m, 9 | |||
11 | ★ Pilot Error | 5.10c | 30m | |||
12 | ★ Both Guns Blazing | 5.11d | 30m | |||
13 |
Central Grove
FA: Chris Perry & Jon Martin, 1976 | 5.8 | 110m, 4 |
1.19. Steve Canyon 24 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 51.071008, -115.210690
description
A little dirty, due to low climber traffic. Be prepared for some clever footwork and hand holds due to a thin layer of dirt. However the climbs are pretty good otherwise!
approach
Park at the Grotto Pond and take the trail left of the porta potty. About 2-3 into the trail it will deviate to the right. Follow into the rocky canyon bed. May have water in it but it has been pretty dry the last few years (2016) . You have gone to far on the main trail if you see an open meadow and wide rocky creek bed. That will be Grotto Canyon, which is awesome too.
1.19.1. Upper Wall 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.068411, -115.208900
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Devil May Care | 5.10d | 25m | |||
2 | ★★ Dream Weaver | 5.10c | 28m | |||
3 | ★★ Take Five | 5.10b | 28m | |||
4 | ★ All That Jazz | 5.10d | 30m | |||
5 | ★★ Timeless | 5.11a | 30m | |||
6 | ★ Unfinished Sympathy | 5.10c | 25m | |||
7 | ★★ Crystal Silence | 5.10c | 20m, 6 | |||
8 | ★★ Friendly Persuasion | 5.8 | 20m, 6 |
1.19.2. Lower Crags 16 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.067909, -115.208476
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Nervous Tick | 5.10b | ||||||
2 | Pumpkin Smasher | 5.10b | ||||||
3 | Where's the Beef | 5.10c | ||||||
4 | Bermuda Triangle | 5.11a | ||||||
5 | Tickicide | 5.9 | ||||||
6 | Tickicide Direct | 5.10c | ||||||
7 | Dr tongue's 3D House of Beef | 5.10a | ||||||
8 | ★★ Bozoids from Planet X | 5.8 | 15m, 3 | |||||
9 | ★ The Bozone Layer | 5.9 | 15m, 3 | |||||
10 | X-Files | 5.10c | 15m, 4 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
11 | ★ Deadhead Left | 5.6 | 17m, 7 | |||||
12 | ★★ Deadhead Right | 5.8 | 17m, 3 | |||||
13 | ★ The Lump | 5.11a | 17m, 4 | |||||
14 | ★ The Hump | 5.10b | 13m, 2 | |||||
15 | ★ The Devil Drives | 5.10a | 18m, 5 | |||||
16 | ★ Moist and Easy | 5.10d | 17m, 4 |
1.20. Mount Fable 6 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Alpine climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 51.118538, -115.227241
1.20.1. Exshaw Slabs 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Strickly for Bolten
FA: J.Marshall & S. Stahl | 5.10a | 22m | |||
2 |
Neandorcrawl
FA: S. Stahl & S. Stahl | 5.8 | 22m |
1.20.2. Mount Fable 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Alpine climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Southwest Ridge / SW Face
FA: D. Gardner, C. Locke & G. Walsh | 5.5 | ||||
2 |
★ Direct Finish / SW Face (direct)
FA: G. Reisenhofer & party | 5.10a | 120m, 3 | |||
3 |
The Boulevard
FA: S. DeMaio | 5.10a | 400m | |||
4 |
Southeast Ridge
FA: G. Kinnear & P. Spear | 5.5 |
1.21. McGillivray Slabs 15 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing, Ice climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.042110, -115.185507
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Morningside
3 of the pitches are 30m-35m each FA: Jim Gudjonson & Ken Wylie | 5.7 | 140m, 4 | |||
2 | ★★ Pythagoras | 5.7 | 270m | |||
3 | Gollywog | 5.7 | 240m | |||
4 | Pixie | 5.6 | ||||
5 | Imagination | 5.7 | ||||
6 | Tony's Route | 5.5 | ||||
7 | 7-Up | 5.7 | ||||
8 | Pitter Patter | 5.8 | ||||
9 | Rubble Without a Cause | 5.5 | 95m | |||
10 | Hiatus | 5.8 | 70m | |||
11 | Overhang Route | 5.7 | ||||
12 | Kahl Crack | 5.5 | 200m | |||
13 | Student's Route | 5.5 | ||||
14 |
★ Irish Mist
Left most smear visible from the highway. | WI3 | 50m | |||
15 |
★ Waterhole
Left smear visible from highway. | WI3 | 60m |
1.22. McGillivary Canyon 43 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.039222, -115.196230
1.22.1. Velvet Underground 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Afterthought
FA: James Barrand & Mike Donnelly, 2003 | 5.12c | 14m, 9 | |||
2 |
Venus in Furs
FA: Jeff Relph, 2003 | 5.12a | 12m, 7 | |||
3 |
VU
FA: Jeff Relph, 2003 | 5.11c | 12m, 6 | |||
4 |
Ocean
FA: Jeff Relph, 2003 | 5.11a | 14m, 8 |
1.22.2. Alumni Wall 9 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
- Dexter Bateman
- Braden Bester
- Patrick Gibeau
- Dawson Vlessides
- Simon Yamamoto
history
Established 2020 by:
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Bubbles Buried In This Jungle
FFA: Simon Yamamoto, 24 May 2020 | 5.12b | 20m, 12 | |||
2 |
Less Is More
FFA: Braden Bester, 15 Jun 2020 | 5.12c/d | 26m, 13 | |||
3 |
The New Normal
FFA: Dexter Bateman, 5 May 2020 | 5.13a/b | ||||
4 |
Spindrift
FFA: Patrick Gibeau, 12 Jul 2020 | 5.13a | ||||
5 |
Feasting on the Flowers
FFA: Braden Bester, 5 Jun 2020 | 5.13b | 25m, 11 | |||
6 |
2 AM Wake Up Call
FFA: Dexter Bateman, 30 May 2020 | 5.12d | 25m | |||
7 |
The Vsion
Set: Patrick Gibeau FFA: Zach Watson, 27 Jun 2020 | 5.13c | 14 | |||
8 |
Temptation
FA: Dawson Vlessides, 4 Jun 2020 | 5.11b | 30m, 10 | |||
9 |
Spanish Pipedream
FFA: Dexter Bateman, 4 Jun 2020 | 5.13a |
1.22.3. University Wall 19 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.039822, -115.196937
description
approach
Approach as for McGillivary Canyon (35 minutes).
history
Originally, development started here in around 2006, by Ross Suchy, Mark Fraser, Craigh Hyslop and Jeff Relf. Only Sphinx was sent, but several more projects were bolted.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
LeftThe left side of the University Wall is astoundingly blank and beautiful. The easiest line is 13a, and the hardest is 14d. | ||||||||
2 |
★★ Müffene
On the opposite side of the canyon about 30m before you hit university wall proper. FA: Miles Adamson, 2019 | 5.11a | ||||||
3 |
★★★ Curb Stomp a Dead Deer in Crocs
FA: Miles Adamson, Jul 2019 | 5.12b | 7 | |||||
4 |
★★ Letterbuck
A harder version of it's neighbor. Likely soft at 13a however it hasn't yet officially been downgraded yet. Set: Mark Fraser FA: Ross Suchy, 2006 | 5.13a | ||||||
5 |
Sphinx Alt
Set: Miles Adamson FA: Dexter Bateman, Jul 2020 | 5.13c | ||||||
6 |
Sphinx
Set: Jeff Relf FA: Ross Suchy, 2006 | 5.13c | ||||||
7 |
Impostor Syndrome
Set: Mark Fraser & Craigh Hyslop FA: Miles Adamson, 30 Jul 2020 | 5.14d | ||||||
8 |
Feed the Beast
Set: Marc Eveleigh & Scott Eveleigh FA: Zach Watson, Jul 2020 | 5.13d | ||||||
9 |
Semantics
FFA: Miles Adamson, Nov 2022 | 5.15a | ||||||
10 |
Smells like Teen Fascism
Set: Ross Suchy FA: Miles Adamson, 2020 | 5.14a | ||||||
11 |
Pass the Dog
Set: Dexter Bateman FA: Braden Bester, Jul 2020 | 5.13a | ||||||
12 |
Pass the Dog Extension
Open project Set: Dexter Bateman | |||||||
13 |
Blow at High Dough
FA: Dexter Bateman, Jun 2020 | 5.13c | ||||||
RightThe right side of the University Wall is slightly shorter, and just as blank. While there are horizontal breaks which generally have holds, the face climbing here is very thin with next to no feet. This is especially true below the first bolt, because the 2013 flood lowered the ground significantly. | ||||||||
15 |
Escape is at Hand for the Travelin' Man
Set: Dexter Bateman FA: Zach Watson, 2020 | 5.13a | ||||||
16 |
Miles' Open Project
Set: Miles Adamson | |||||||
17 |
★★★ Death by Hoax
A burly boulder problem through the first 2 bolts leads to a few more hard moves through a blank bulge and finally a rest. Easier but still strenuous climbing to the top. FA: Miles Adamson, 2020 | 5.13a | ||||||
18 |
Matts Open Project
Set: Matt Hendsbee | 5.14c/d | ||||||
19 |
You’re Talking About a Sex Robot That Could Carry Me to Atlantis Like It’s a Bad Thing
Set: Miles Adamson FA: Zach Watson, Jul 2020 | 5.13a | ||||||
20 |
Dusty the Cat
FA: Miles Adamson, 2020 | 5.12c | 16m, 6 | |||||
21 |
Hello by Baby, Hello my Britannay
FA: Dexter Bateman | 5.12d |
1.22.4. The Faculty 11 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.038876, -115.196148
description
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Right | ||||||||
2 |
It’s a Ten, Right?
FA: Miles Adamson, Jun 2020 | 5.13b | 6 | |||||
3 |
First First Ascent
Named after it being Kristine’s first FA. Set: Miles Adamson FA: Kristine McKay, Jun 2020 | 5.11a | 10 | |||||
4 |
Slip and Slide
FA: Miles Adamson | 5.11d | 7 | |||||
5 |
Hammerhead
Set: Matt Hendsbee FA: Miles Adamson, Jul 2020 | 5.13a | 10 | |||||
6 |
Hot Lettuce
FA: Miles Adamson, Jun 2020 | 5.12d | 8 | |||||
7 |
Loaf
FA: Miles Adamson, Jun 2020 | 5.12a | 4 | |||||
LeftJust past the Chockstone, there are two routes on the left. Potential for a couple more too. Steady Stateis particularly good. | ||||||||
9 |
Give Me White Claw or Give Me Death
FA: Miles Adamson, Jun 2020 | 5.12a | 8 | |||||
10 |
★★ Steady State
FA: Matt Hendsbee, Jun 2020 | 5.12b | 10 | |||||
Far RightPast Loafto the right, there are 2 established routes and one project. Do not try the project(center), it’s not cleaned of loose rock yet. | ||||||||
12 |
Breaker
FA: Matt Hendsbee | 5.11a | 8 | |||||
13 | Unfinished Project | |||||||
14 |
Unnamed
FA: Matt Hendsbee, Jul 2020 | 5.11a |
1.23. Bathtub Brook 7 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.23.1. Fire Wall 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Fire Extinguisher | 5.10b | ||||
2 | Mickey Mantle | 5.10a | ||||
3 | Fire Alarm | 5.11a | ||||
4 | Smear Campaign | 5.11c |
1.23.2. French Made Crag 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ French Made | 5.10b | ||||
2 | ★ Hotwire | 5.10b | ||||
3 | ★ Madame X | 5.10c |
1.24. The Alcove 5 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★ The Interrogator | 5.11d | ||||
2 | ★★ Hold Your Own | 5.12c | ||||
3 | Project C | |||||
4 | ★★ Hot Box | 5.12a | ||||
5 | Project E |
1.25. The Sanctuary 17 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
1.25.1. Left Cliff 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Instinct | 5.11a | ||||
2 | Just a Motion Away | 5.11b | ||||
3 | Autumn Leaves | 5.10c | ||||
4 | String of Pearls | 5.10d | 22m |
1.25.2. Lower Cliff 13 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Everest | 5.10a | 8m | |||
2 | The Mission | 5.10c | ||||
3 | Kamakiriad | 5.11d | ||||
4 | The Trees | 5.11d | ||||
5 | The Trees Direct | 5.12b | ||||
6 | Persistence | 5.11b | ||||
7 | Cloudburst | 5.11a | ||||
8 | Bete Noir | 5.12b | ||||
9 | Struggle Within | 5.11c | ||||
10 | Instant Gratification | 5.11a | ||||
11 | 15 Moves | 5.10a | ||||
12 | Weightless | 5.12a | ||||
13 | Constant Velocity | 5.12c | 12m |
1.26. Stewart Creek 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Ice climbing
Lat / Long: 51.015704, -115.325050
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★ Twisted Sister | 5.7 WI4 IV R | 250m, 5 |
1.27. Grotto Mountain 46 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Ice climbing, Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 51.074474, -115.269800
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
3 | 2001 Space Odyssey | M7 | 25m, 9 | |||
4 |
Don’t Rock The Boatswain
FFA: Miles Adamson & Zach Watson, 3 Sep 2017 | 5.14b | 7 | |||
5 |
Boatswain 2: The Steepening
Steep limestone in the large amphitheatre east of Echo Canyon FFA: Zach Watson & Miles Adamson, Sep 2019 | 5.13c R | 4 | |||
6 |
Missing & Presumed Drowned
https://squamishclimbingmagazine.ca/new-route-near-apocalypse-cave-missing-four-pitches/ | 5.10b | 180m, 4 | |||
7 |
Anticipation
Located at the back of The Sanctuary, a large canyon where the drytool crags The Playground and Alcatraz are found. FA: Nick Baggaley & Greg Barrett, 2023 | WI3 M6 | 400m |
1.27.1. The Playground 23 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Ice climbing
Lat / Long: 51.070556, -115.273083
summary
The original! Both steep and slabby drytooling routes can be found here, as well as a large number of locals whiling away the months between the first snowfall and when ice starts to form.
approach
Park as for Rat's Nest Cave, and hike up the trail to the power line cut. Head left here, and continue on a faint trail and overgrown road up and around the Burnco gravel pit to a creekbed. Follow this uphill to the signposts.
where to stay
Canmore is closest.
ethic
All routes are drytooling routes (despite the tag "Ice"). Wear helmets and expect rockfall from the garbage rock.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Mountaineer's Route
On the far left, climb slab past bolts to a (bolted) crack system. Follow this up to an anchor. FA: Pat Delaney | M5 | ||||||
2 |
U Crazy Roundeye
Climb up sketchy slabs left of the Mountaineers Route. FA: Pat Delaney | M7 | ||||||
3 |
Get to Know You
FA: Lida Frydrychova & Veronica Wadja | M6 | ||||||
4 |
Trumpsters
Very comp-style. Climb corners, sidepulls and stein pulls with big reaches in between up a sustained vertical face left of the Single Malt seam. FA: Amanda Bischke | M7 | ||||||
5 |
Single Malt
Steep climbing with good holds up to the prominent crack system. Follow this until the bolt line breaks out up and left to the top. FA: Eric Dumerac | M8 | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
Amrut
FA: James Madden | M8 | ||||||
7 |
Shropshire Blue
Climb out of the back of the main cave on the left wall. Long moves between thin holds await, up to a burly pull through the roof and to easier ground above. FA: Erik Schnack | M9 | ||||||
8 |
Swiss Cheese
Climb up the central rib of the cave, on deep pockets all the way to the roof. FA: Simon Anthamatten | M9 | ||||||
9 |
Rat's Nest Route
Climb good holds on a diagonal seam heading up and left towards the big rat's nest. Hold your nose and clip the chains. FA: Pat Delaney | M4 | 4 | |||||
10 |
Baptism (variation)
Climb the corner immediately right of the start of Rat's Nest, and once below the roof step left and climb a slabby finish. FA: Pat Delaney | M5 | 5 | |||||
11 |
Baptism
Climb the corner right of the start of Rat's Nest, and once below the roof step right across the slab and finish up the last few bolts of Prowler. FA: Pat Delaney | M5 | ||||||
12 |
Prowler
Climb the arete past 3 bolts, and continue up slightly left to the anchor. FA: Pat Delaney | M6 | 6 | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
13 |
Mutt
Starts just right of the arete. Short, thuggy and steep. | M6 | 4 | |||||
14 |
Jeff
Start in the prominent corner as for Glenfiddich. Climb left across big pockets to a crack, and follow this up to a roof. Cross the roof with a big move or two, and traverse slightly left to a big crack and the anchors. FA: Pat Delaney | M8 | 5 | |||||
15 |
Glenfiddich
Climb the prominent right-facing, overhanging corner system and pull through onto the upper wall. Follow the continuation of the corner up and right on a thin crack to a hidden clipping hold at the anchor. FA: Pat Delaney | M7 | ||||||
16 |
Wild Turkey
Start up the right facing corner just right of Glenfiddich, and continue up blocks and cracks past the roof onto the upper slab. Climb this slab on drilled pockets to the chains. FA: Pat Delaney | M8 | ||||||
17 |
Triple Sec
Start up an overhanging block, and continue up a left facing corner/crack to finish up the slab overhead. FA: Pat Delaney | M8 | ||||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
18 |
Nothing but Pride
Start at the back of the small cave at the right side of the area, and climb up and out of it using stems and 3D moves to an anchor above. FA: Pat Delaney | M7 | ||||||
19 |
No Prejudice
Just right of the Nothing but Pride cave, climb a slab up a shallow corner system to an anchor on the wall above a ledge. FA: Brent Peters | M4 | ||||||
20 |
Dodgeball
Climb the slab right of No Prejudice. FA: Brent Peters | M4 | ||||||
21 |
Red Rover
Another slabby climb between No Prejudice and The Monitor. FA: James Madden | M4 | ||||||
22 |
The Monitor
Climb the mossy crack left of the prominent roof, through a smaller roof and finish up a corner system. FA: Brent Peters | M5 | ||||||
23 |
The Bully
Climb up a corner to below the prominent roof. After clipping a bolt above, traverse right across the roof then pull over it and climb the slab above. FA: Brent Peters | M6 | 5 |
1.27.2. The Apocalypse Cave 18 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.074026, -115.270530
description
The Apocalypse Cave is a free climbing area. Do not climb these routes with ice tools! The wall is located in the Middle Grotto of Grotto Mountain, the same canyon as The Playground and Silent Auction multi-pitch. The tallest climbs are roughly 25m high and a 60m rope is required.
approach
Park at the Ratsnest cave parking. This is a large dirt unsigned turnoff of Hwy 1A. If approaching from Exshaw, once the speed limit hits 80km/h, the road goes uphill and over a bend. The parking is the third pullout on the right when driving downhill, about 2km past the turnoff for Gap Lake. The majority of the approach is the same as for The Playground.
Follow the Ratsnest cave trail for approximately 5 minutes up a steep hill. The climber's trail forks left partway up the steep hill (see photo). There are many forks and it can be hard to find the proper one. It usually has a cairn and should quickly turn into a power line road. After about 40 minutes, just before the road goes downhill into the mine site, the trail leads up into the tress and into the Middle Grotto canyon. Follow the canyon and the trails along it's banks to a fork just before the Playground. The right fork leads to the Playground, take the left fork for Apocalypse Cave or Silent Auction. The trail re-enters the canyon to a fork in the drainage. Take the right drainage but do not follow it, instead look for an orange flagged trail that leads to the base of the wall. Approach time is approximately 70 minutes.
history
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
The Afterthought Wall | ||||||||
2 |
Sex Bomb
FA: Marcus Norman | 5.13c | 15m, 7 | |||||
Left Side Wall | ||||||||
4 |
Pacman Prophecy
FA: Evan Hau, Sep 2015 | 5.12b | 20m, 8 | |||||
5 |
Planet Terror
FA: Marcus Norman | 5.12a | 24m, 8 | |||||
6 |
The Chalking Dead
FA: Marcus Norman | 5.12a | 24m, 9 | |||||
Main Cave | ||||||||
8 |
Drifter
FA: Alex Quiring, Sep 2015 | 5.13a | 30m, 13 | |||||
9 |
Box of Souls
FA: Evan Hau, Sep 2015 | 5.14a | 20m, 10 | |||||
10 |
Belly of the Beast
FA: Evan Hau, 2016 | 5.14a | 25m, 12 | |||||
11 |
Ants in Overdrive
FA: Evan Hau, Sep 2015 | 5.13d | 25m, 11 | |||||
12 |
★★ The Four Horseman
The Lion of Judah opens the first four of Seven Seals, which summons four beings that ride out on pale horses. Conquest, War, Famine, and Death, the Four Horsemen are to set a divine apocalypse upon the world. Nice 5.11 climbing down low leads to the business up high before the chains below the roof. FA: Maddy Marchuk, 26 Jan 2019 | 5.12c | 20m, 9 | |||||
13 |
★★ Kerplunk
FA: Evan Hau & Josh Huller, Sep 2015 | 5.11c | 25m, 9 | |||||
14 |
Litter Box
Chossy jugs down low lead to a blank groove and more jugs to the top. FA: Mason Tessier, 6 Jan 2018 | 5.11c | 20m, 7 | |||||
15 |
Kerploof
Extension of 'Kerplunk' FA: Evan Hau & Josh Huller, Sep 2015 | 5.13c | 30m, 12 | |||||
16 |
★★ Cats on Acid
Trend left to a tricky low crux through a bulge to a second reachy crux before heading right into a corner. Easier through steep terrain to the chains. FA: Mason Tessier, 6 Jan 2018 | 5.12b | 19m, 9 | |||||
17 |
Jedi Kitties
Shares the first two bolts of Cats on Acid but heads right into the shallow corner where technical moves will test your Jedi powers. Finish on easier juggy climbing to a mid-station just below the chossy roof. The extension goes at 5.12+ FA: Maddy Marchuk, 5 Jan 2019 | 5.12b | 19m, 9 | |||||
18 |
★★ Minesweeper
Most easily identified by the chain-draw at the third bolt, this route had a major pillar break off after it's initial equipping and is now much easier. Trend right after the 3rd bolt to a blunt arete then up left to steeper climbing. Clip-n-go anchor. FA: Jason Adam, 7 Mar 2018 | 5.12a | 19m, 9 | |||||
19 |
★★ Mind Flayer P1
A boulder problem start leads into the shallow corner and a delicate crux. Fun moves up the overhanging arete out the right side of the corner leads to the chains in the roof. FA: Maddy Marchuk, 12 Sep 2017 | 5.12a | 20m, 10 | |||||
20 |
Book of Revelation
FA: Evan Hau, Sep 2015 | 5.12c | 15m, 5 | |||||
21 |
Celestial Streaker
FA: Evan Hau, Sep 2015 | 5.12c | 25m, 11 |
1.28. Lady Macdonald 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Ice climbing and Alpine climbing
Lat / Long: 51.115003, -115.315010
description
South east ridge of Lady Macdonald. Begins further down cougar creek attaining the skyline east ridge. Lots of scrambling with 3 pitches of 5.6-5.7
access issues
Cougar creek
ethic
Trad and every loose choss
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Southeast Ridge
Go along close to the crest (left side) of ridge on various trails for about 1 hour for about 500 m. until hit first rock band – 30 m high wall. Checked down and left but couldn’t find easy spot. Apparently the easy scramble route is farther uphill to the right. We went up a 5.4 groove for 30 m and then scrambled some slabs and trees for another 50 m. Put rope away if used it as it is another 1 hour as go up scree, small rock bands and treed ridge until hit second rock band which is 50m+ wall. Lots of cairns and we went down and left to the find the 5.5 layback crack beside a big tree. Need a left hand underhand move to go up this and some people rate it at 5.4. Good protection placements in crack. Top of ridge in another 20 m. Now on rock ridge, go over exposed knife edge sections, some bolts(hangers removed as of aug/2011) and over one 5.2 tower. Put away the rope again for 20 -30 min as hike down scree and back up along broad ridge as it turns left. Scramble around some towers and up to a large tower/rock band that blocks the ridge. The trails leads right for 100 m along a 10 m wide ledge at the base of the band and then up easy rock for 15m to another ledge at the base of second rock band. Traverse back left to the top of the tower and then up onto upper rock band/rock ridge. This would be quite easy if dry but it was deep snow when we did it and not pleasant as we wallowed and were at risk of avalanche. A group behind climbed a 5.6 groove to the right of the tower but it was wet and we had our boots on so we went with the snow. Some groups rate this as 5.5/5.6 when dry and it would be much faster and safer than going around on the ledges. The upper rock ridge has sections of knife edge and rubble- moderate scrambling. Some diversions left around towers/rock bands and eventually comes to the final steep 50 m high rock band. This looks steep but an easy 5.3 route slants up 30 m and left across the face and puts you on the scree/rubble slopes which lead to the false summit above the teahouse. 6 hours in total. | 5.4 IFAS:PD | 350m | |||
2 |
★ Ghoster Coaster
P1: Solo the first step (5m) walk to the base of the next wall where the climb starts belay in cave to the right (15m) WI3 to DBB. P2:The money pitch (20m) WI3 to DBB on the left. P3: Multiple steps WI2 to tree belay (60m) Rappelling: 2x60m ropes 3 rappels. 1x60m 5 rappels v- thread 2 x tree anchors. Approach takes about 1.5-2 hrs. Start from Cougar Creek parking area, walk up to a Y junction (45-60 mins walking), take a left at the junction and continue up the creek until the hoodoos on the left side (high on the bank), which took an additional 15 minutes. From there, walk up a drainage on the left side of the creek bed until you hit ice (another 20 mins). | WI3 | 100m, 3 |
1.29. Three Sisters 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Ice climbing
Lat / Long: 51.018445, -115.344722
1.29.1. Little Sister 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Lat / Long: 51.026686, -115.331025
1.29.1.1. North Face 2 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Ice climbing
Lat / Long: 51.027512, -115.332680
1.30. The Drive-In 8 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
All Rock climbing
Lat / Long: 51.068599, -115.148172
description
Drytooling crag just East of Exshaw. Short approach to relatively short, well-bolted routes.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Happy Feet | M5 | ||||
2 | True Romance | M5 | ||||
3 | Deception | M5 | ||||
4 | Tropic Thunder | M6 | ||||
5 | Dirty Dancing | M6 | ||||
6 | Batman Begins | M7 | ||||
7 | Jackie Brown | M6 | ||||
8 | Demolition Man | M7 |
1.31. Door Jamb Mountain 4 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Rock climbing and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.085366, -115.140884
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
High Altitude Graffiti
FA: G. Cornell & J. Milburne | 5.5 | 120m | |||
2 |
The Light That Failed
FA: G. Cornell & G. Macrae | 5.6 | 160m | |||
3 |
Machu Picchu
FA: J. Milburne & G. Cornell | 5.6 | 200m | |||
4 |
★★ Souper Smoke
Warning Fixed Gear: Bolt Theft Easy, fully-bolted low-angle slab climbing. All pitches are at or just over 30m with two-bolt rappel anchors. Approach: Follow the standard scramble route upwards until you start to approach the large slabs. Once at the slabs, traverse left - you may have to carefully backtrack and downclimb to keep pushing left. Pass below the beautiful runnel-filled Machu Picchu slab, pick up a trail and follow it to the base of the climb. Descent: Walk off via the standard Door Jamb Mountain scramble route. Set: Grant Parkin, 2021 | 5.4 | 130m, 4 |
1.32. Old Goat Glacier Boulders 0 routes in Area
summary
A bunch of lower grade boulders mixed with some high level high-balls.
description
The area is sitting on a scree slope in the valley of Goat Mountain. Beautiful area to climb in with the view of a waterfall nearby.
access issues
The valley is available at all times but the trail access is in the area of a campground which is closed from mid-September to mid-May which requires you to walk an extra 1.5km from your parking location
approach
Follow the Smith Dorrien Trail which is accessed by driving past the parking lot for Ha Ling Peak until you reach a sign that says West Spray Lakes Campground. At this point turn right and follow the road along the North-West side of the Spray Lakes called West Side Road (On Google Maps). Follow the road into the campground area until you reach a sign that says Trailhead parking. There are two routes you can take from here. One is following the trail at the parking lot another is walking along the gravel road to the left of the parking lot till you reach a sign that says No Parking. Taking this trail skips a somewhat steep cliff that you cannot go around if you take the Trailhead Parking path. Follow the trail along the stream for about 2.5km (30-45min) until you reach the valley. You will know it when you see it. The boulder field will be on your left after exiting the forest. Follow the obvious trail up to the boulders.
where to stay
You can either stay overnight in Canmore or choose to camp in the campground where the trail is accessed.
1.33. The Cave (The Vsion) 0 routes in Gym
description
Bow Meadows Cres
Canmore
Alberta T1W 1P2 Canada
https://www.facebook.com/Canmore-Indoor-Climbing-Society-157521384341072/
call: (403) 678-8803
1.34. Elevation Place 12 routes in Gym
- Summary:
-
Bouldering and Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.088695, -115.350366
summary
Elevation place climbing gym. Keeping ticks to keep stoked through shitty weather days
description
Climbing Gym
1.34.1. Bouldering Wall 8 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
description
Watch out for falling on belayers!
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ V7
Nov 14th. Green sit start. Big moves to crimps. Power enduro | V7 | 4m | |||
2 |
★★★ V6
12/11/18 yellow big move to pinch v6. Sandbag | V6 | ||||
3 |
★★ V6 slab
Hard slab! Very delicate and slippery | V6 | ||||
4 |
★★★ Blue lagoon
Super fun! Big moves to ledges and lots of foot trickery. 12/11/18 | V6 | ||||
5 |
★★ V6 razor crimps
Tiny crimps for miles. So fun 12/11/18 | V6 | 4m | |||
6 |
★★ Grey v6
Compression and big moves! 13/12/18 | V6 | ||||
7 |
★★ Dish v5
12/11/18 pinch dishes. Big moves | V5 | ||||
8 |
★★★ Blue v4
Best v4 up. Variety of holds | V4 |
1.34.2. Big Roof Wall 4 routes in Unknown
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
description
Far back left hand side opposite boulder wall
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Blood Everywhere
Crimp and micro pinch up the face on very delicate moves FA: Eug, Jan 2017 | 5.11d | 11m | |||
2 | Butter Me Up | 5.10c | 12m | |||
3 |
★ Crimpanzee
That's it, you guessed it, micro crimp Up the face on fun moves. No clipping! | 5.11b | 11m | |||
4 | ★ The Monster is Back | 5.10b/c | 12m |
1.35. Oliver Twist 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Ice climbing
Lat / Long: 50.994377, -115.338247
description
This nice ice climb features a lower angle bottom section and a more vertical section at the top.
The route is top-rope friendly. Easiest top-rope access is to head up into the trees to the left of where the large diagonal cliff band starts from the creek. Alternatively, you can hike up to the base of the ice and scramble through the cliff band to the right of the ice via 4th class terrain.
approach
Park alongside the highway and follow the scrambler's route up The Orphan route. The ice will be visible on the left hand side.
There are significant avalanche slopes on the approach and the drainage is a terrain trap. Take caution when there is snow on the approach slopes. There are large slopes above the climb as well, but it's not as directly exposed to avalanche terrain.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★ Oliver Twist
This nice ice climb features a lower angle bottom section and a more vertical section at the top. The route is top-rope friendly. Easiest top-rope access is to head up into the trees to the left of where the large diagonal cliff band starts from the creek. Alternatively, you can hike up to the base of the ice and scramble through the cliff band to the right of the ice via 4th class terrain. FA: Brendan Clark, Simon Trudel, Kris Nielson & Patti Nielson, 31 Dec | WI3 | 20m |
1.36. Blue Cheese 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
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All Ice climbing
Lat / Long: 51.025687, -115.423900
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
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1 | ★ Blue Cheese | WI3+ | 15m |
1.37. Expressions Wall 16 routes in Crag
- Summary:
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All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 51.020313, -115.421609
description
Some of the finest and most featured blue streaks of limestone with likely the most exposed approach in the Bow Valley.
access issues
Pets and small children will NOT be able to safely get through the chain section. Wear a helmet through the chain section, you can potentially knock rocks down on other party members. If you get caught up here in the rain it can be very hard to get down.
approach
Drive 10 minutes past Grassi Lakes to Goat Pond. There will be a small bridge. Park either before the bridge on the right or after the bridge on the left at (51.02371, -115.40108).
Walk west across the road/dam on the north side of Goat Pond. Once you get to the other side (10 minutes), you will hit a large bike trail. Do not take this trail and continue going straight up towards the base of the drainage.
Flagging leads you to a trail in the woods, which you access by going up the left side of the drainage. It's a bit steep getting out of the drainage, but then you follow the gentle uphill in the forest with a well-worn trail until it leads back into the drainage up higher. Continue up the drainage until you see flagging up and right. You will then exit the drainage on the right-hand side to enter a dense bushy area.
Follow the trail in the bushes up to switchbacks on the scree. Follow this to the base of a cliff next to a waterfall in spring/early summer. To this point it's about 25 minutes (halfway). Follow the trail up and right, now much steeper. It sometimes switchbacks but is usually just straight up and right. Soon you will hit an extremely exposed system of ledges and slabs which have chains equipped. Follow sections of chains up exposed terrain for about 25 minutes until you reach the perch where the wall is. Finish the last bit up the mossy slope with a poor trail, heading slightly right to get to the actual crag.
history
This wall was first developed by Jeff Relph, Paddy Jerome and Ross Suchy approximately 15 years ago (2007?). A handful of the most obvious blue streaks were bolted and climbed, and are some of the finest and most featured blue streaks of limestone in the Bow Valley. While the crag was clearly incredible with much more potential, the approach was going to take so much effort to build that it was abandoned until 2012. The crag sits upon a cliffy perch, surrounded by slabs, gulley’s and bluffs which make it very difficult to access safely.
In 2012, Kate Johnson and Miles Adamson heard about the wall from Jeff. Just getting into route development at the time, they checked it out and decided to add some more routes and try to build a trail. They added 5 more routes and built a trail up the right-hand gully, installing some sections of chain as a handrail. While the approach got you there, it was not safe enough due to rockfall hazards in the gulley. This approach was decommissioned and the wall remained inaccessible until 2022.
This year (2022) Matt Hendsbee, Kelsey Fleming, Kate Johnson and Miles Adamson installed chains and ladder rungs up a left to right rising traverse on slabs and narrow ledges. While they took every measure possible to make sure it is easy to get up there, an uncontrolled fall off the second half of the approach would be fatal. People who struggle with exposure or do not trust themselves with their hands on a chain will not be able to get to the wall. Even with the chains, it is likely the most exposed approach in the Bow Valley (at least for sport crags).
1.37.1. Bench Area 6 routes in Sector
- Summary:
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description
Routes are listed from left to right. Upon getting to the wall, you will be on the right-hand side near the bench (underneath Bubba). Many routes are over 30m and required upwards of 17 draws PLUS anchor. Bolt counts listed do not include the anchor.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
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1 |
Bubba
Set: Jeff Relph & Paddy Jerome, 2007 FA: Miles Adamson, 2012 | 5.12b | 32m, 15 | |||
2 |
Warrior Monk
FA: Miles Adamson, 2012 | 5.12d | 33m | |||
3 |
Updog
Set: Kate Johnson & Miles Adamson FA: Miles Adamson, 2012 | 5.12c | 31m, 15 | |||
4 |
Marmy the Marmot
FA: Miles Adamson, Jul 2022 | 5.12c | 34m, 16 | |||
5 |
Kelsey’s Route
Set: Miles Adamson & Kelsey Fleming FA: Miles Adamson, Jun 2022 | 5.11a | 32m, 14 | |||
6 |
Dude Where’s My Pickaxe
FA: Miles Adamson, Jun 2022 | 5.13a | 33m, 17 |
1.37.2. Perch Area 7 routes in Sector
- Summary:
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description
The next routes (listed left to right) are accessed via a chain and rebar ladder to an exposed ledge. Low bolts and more chain have been placed to be secure while walking around the base and belaying.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Perfect Absolution
FA: Paddy Jerome, 2007 | 5.11b | 20m, 12 | |||
2 |
Try Up
FA: Jeff Relph, 2007 | 5.11c | 20m, 12 | |||
3 |
My Money Don’t Jiggle Jiggle
FA: Miles Adamson, Jun 2022 | 5.12b | 20m, 10 | |||
4 |
Weapons of Mass Distraction
FA: Paddy Jerome, 2007 | 5.12c | 21m, 10 | |||
5 |
Death of a Cuticle
FA: Zach Watson, 2012 | 5.12c | 21m, 9 | |||
6 |
Adam Smith and the Invisible Hands
FA: Miles Adamson, 2012 | 5.13b | 22m | |||
7 |
Mean Streak
FA: Ross Suchy, 2007 | 5.12c | 22m |
1.37.3. The Far Left 3 routes in Sector
- Summary:
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description
The next routes (listed left to right) are accessed via a chain and rebar ladder to an exposed ledge. This isn’t déjà vu, there is indeed more chain and rebar. This area has the most potential for new routes, although it is difficult to get on top to rappel.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Rebarb
FA: Matt Hendsbee, Jul 2022 | 5.12a | 33m, 16 | |||
2 |
Season Finale
FA: Matt Hendsbee, Sep 2022 | 5.12b | 18m, 9 | |||
3 |
Ten Years Later
Set: Miles Adamson, 2012 FA: Miles Adamson, Aug 2022 | 5.12c | 33m, 15 |
1.38. Jura Creek 4 routes in Area
- Summary:
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All Bouldering
1.38.1. Sugar Cube Area 4 routes in Boulder
- Summary:
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Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
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1 | Sugar Cube Corner | V3 | ||||
2 | Corner to Corner | V3 | ||||
3 | The Cube | V3 | ||||
4 | Upper Cube-age | V2 |