Alberta Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. Alberta 4,922 routes in Region

26 25 28 27 19 22 14 23 24 15 13 12 10 11 5 9 6 7 8 18 17 21 4 20 3 2 1

1 Waterton 2 Frank Slide 3 Skyline Boulders 4 Kananaskis Country 5 The Ghost 6 Yamnuska 7 Goat Mountain 8 Canmore 9 Banff 10 Lake Louise 11 Valley of the Ten Peaks 12 Icefields Parkway 13 Columbia Icefields 14 Jasper National Park 15 David Thompson Corridor 17 Big Rock 18 Calgary 19 Edmonton 20 Rockwall Fitness Centre 21 Big Rock Bouldering 22 Augustana University Climbing Gym 23 Collicutt Centre 24 The Forum 25 GPRC Climbing Gym 26 K-Rock Climbing Wall 27 Camp He Ho Ha Climbing Gym 28 Cold Lake

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Sport climbing, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 54.442949, -115.010401

1.1. Waterton 8 routes in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 49.275722, -114.006354

1.1.1. Red Rock Parkway 0 routes in Area

1.1.2. Waterton Townsite 2 routes in Area

Summary:

1.1.3. Cameron Lake Road 5 routes in Area

Summary:

1.1.4. Pincher Creek 1 route in Area

Summary:

1.2. Frank Slide 36 routes in Crag

3 4

3 House Area 4 Healing

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 49.589970, -114.394398

history

The Frank Slide was a rockslide that buried part of the mining town of Frank, at 4:10 a.m. on April 29, 1903. Around 110 million tonnes (121 million US tons) of limestone rock slid down Turtle Mountain. Witnesses reported that the rock had reached up the opposing hills within 100 seconds, obliterating the eastern edge of Frank, the Canadian Pacific Railway line and the coal mine. It was one of the largest landslides in Canadian history and remains the deadliest, as between 70 and 90 of the town's residents were killed, most of whom remain buried in the rubble. Multiple factors led to the slide: Turtle Mountain's formation left it in a constant state of instability. Coal mining operations may have weakened the mountain's internal structure, as did a wet winter and cold snap on the night of the disaster.

The railway was repaired within three weeks and the mine was quickly reopened. The section of town closest to the mountain was relocated in 1911 amid fears that another slide was possible. The town's population nearly doubled its pre-slide population by 1906, but dwindled after the mine closed permanently in 1917. The community is now part of the Municipality of Crowsnest Pass in the Province of Alberta and has a population around 200. The site of the disaster, which remains nearly unchanged since the slide, is now a popular tourist destination. It has been designated a Provincial Historic Site of Alberta and is home to an interpretive centre that receives over 100,000 visitors annually. Source Wikipedia

1.2.1. Heart of Frank 6 routes in Field

Summary:

description

PDF topo by Trent Hoover

1.2.2. Frictionary 12 routes in Field

Summary:

description

PDF topo by Trent Hoover

1.2.3. House Area 13 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: 49.596813, -114.397371

summary

Located northwest edge of Frank Slide is one of the most easily accessible areas at the Slide. The House Area holds some of the hardestproblems at Frank Slide, including Salacious (V8/9), Cartel (V9), and the infamous Railway (V10/11), a contenderfor the hardest problem at Frank Slide. The House Area also features some excellent moderate problems, such asFour Inch Pinch (V2), the short but fun Galactic (V4), the classic Aftermath (V5), and the pumpy Wild West (V5).Some of the boulders in the House Area are relatively protected from the wind, so these problems may be a goodoption on days when the Chinook winds are howling through the Crowsnest Pass.

approach

The best access to the House Area is to park at the large roadside pullout on the south side of the Crowsnest Highway near the north end of the slide. Carefully cross the highway, walk a short distance north, and look for a well-established trail (near the prominent Road Rage boulder) through the trees leading towards the enormous House Boulder. The trail will lead you to first to the Sofa King / Ninja Turtles Boulders, then to the House and Cartel Boulders.

1.2.4. Healing 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 49.587615, -114.389153

1.2.5. Relentless 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

1.3. Skyline Boulders 33 routes in Area

1

1 The Ravine

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 49.940525, -114.080136

summary

This Sandstone bouldering area is an amazing bouldering area with many high quality problems.

description

The boulders are scattered throughout the woods in the lower sections of the ravine. This is a great late season crag since the area is south facing and will catch every last drop of sunlight from morning till dusk.

approach

From Calgary, travel down the Highway 22 until you reach the intersection with highway 520 (gravel road). Turn left onto highway 520 and continue up the winding dirt road until the road intersects with the Range road 13A. Turn right and head south for about 4km. Park in an open pull out on the side of the road and proceed west down the 4x4 trail that leads into the woods.

1.3.1. The Ravine 33 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: 49.940854, -114.081193

1.4. Kananaskis Country 808 routes in Crag

1 16 7 4 5 15 6 8 17 9 11 2 20 3 12 18 19 13 21 14 10

1 Barrier Mountain 2 Evan-Thomas Creek 3 Burstall Pass 4 Porcupine Creek 5 Wasootch Slabs 6 Wasootch Peak 7 Mount Lorette 8 Moose Mountain Crag 9 Prairie Creek 10 Half Moon Crag 11 The White Buddha 12 South Lawson Peak 13 Kananaskis Lakes 14 Cowbell Crag 15 Kilowatt Crag 16 Mt Baldy Crag 17 Mt Kidd 18 King Creek 19 Opal Creek 20 Smith-Dorrien Spray Trail 21 Elk Lakes

Summary:

Sport climbing, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.688277, -114.824258

summary

Kananaskis Country boasts an array of top-notch ice climbs, sport climbing crags, and alpine routes.

description

K-country, generally referred to as the area south and east of Canmore, is accessed via the artery of the park, highway 40. Along the highway you will find fantastic shoulder season crags (Wasootch Slabs, Barrier Mountain), classic ice routes (Evan-Thomas Creek), and much more.

access issues

A Kananaskis Conservation Pass is required for vehicles stopping in Kananaskis.

approach

Head south from the Trans Canada Highway onto the 40.

where to stay

Kananaskis campgrounds, resorts, or random camping (see official regulations).

1.4.1. Barrier Mountain 123 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.018571, -115.057979

1.4.2. Evan-Thomas Creek 12 routes in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 50.862618, -115.096734

1.4.3. Burstall Pass 22 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 50.761633, -115.309167

1.4.4. Porcupine Creek 45 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.970566, -115.075003

approach

Park at the porcupine creek trail header, follow creek trail south 10 minutes, crag is along the river past the bridge, first cliff area is a small one with only a few routes, continue past this area to the second where the main area with many routes is.

1.4.5. Wasootch Slabs 122 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 50.966414, -115.091434

summary

Great beginner slabs with a mix of sport, trad, and top rope climbing. The sun bakes the southwestern-facing wall, making this an excellent shoulder season (or even winter) crag. Short, easy approach.

approach

Park at the Wasootch parking lot and follow the easy trail along the riverbed.

1.4.6. Wasootch Peak 2 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.941943, -115.101381

1.4.7. Mount Lorette 7 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 50.983056, -115.128528

summary

One of the prominent landmarks driving along Highway 40, this peak boasts a great moderate ridge climb as well as a seldom-visited crag near the base.

description

The Nakoda name translates as "mountain by goat springs"

approach

Either cross the Kananaskis River below the Lorette Ponds parking (warning - it's cold and fast flowing at times) or hike north along the power cut from the Nakiska access road.

1.4.8. Moose Mountain Crag 251 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.895296, -114.784574

1.4.9. Prairie Creek 57 routes in Area

Summary:

Rock climbing, Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 50.870595, -114.813097

1.4.10. Half Moon Crag 4 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 50.396928, -114.600118

1.4.11. The White Buddha 43 routes in Area

Summary:

Rock climbing, Bouldering and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.867256, -114.806419

summary

Sports routes for every skill level as well as top roped bouldering options

approach

park at powder face trail parking lot, 15 minutes up the trail and just past the bridge there is a switch back trail on the right, follow that and it leads right to the base of the crag. u can also follow the trail to the top which has a nice lookout, which u can see elbow falls from

1.4.12. South Lawson Peak 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 50.722821, -115.144539

1.4.13. Kananaskis Lakes 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.653656, -115.151717

1.4.14. Cowbell Crag 36 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 50.426941, -114.711008

1.4.15. Kilowatt Crag 4 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 50.958392, -115.104913

1.4.16. Mt Baldy Crag 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.005414, -115.066466

summary

A beginner Crag with a nice array of moderates.

description

This crag is relatively new (~2010) with easy, short routes with decent stone; which makes it great for beginners or for people inexperienced getting back into it.

approach

This crag is a short walk in from the Mt Baldyhiking trail, about 12.3 km in from the Trans-Canada Highway. The hike is to the left of the creek, the approach to the crag on the right.

1.4.17. Mt Kidd 17 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 50.887894, -115.191544

1.4.18. King Creek 9 routes in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 50.718783, -115.097441

1.4.19. Opal Creek 5 routes in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 50.680588, -115.068863

1.4.20. Smith-Dorrien Spray Trail 20 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 50.861270, -115.332003

1.4.21. Elk Lakes 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 50.552200, -115.103294

1.5. The Ghost 206 routes in Area

2 24 27 23 1 28

1 The South Ghost 2 The North Ghost 23 Sentinel Triangle 24 Silver-Tongued Devil Crag 27 Curbside Crags: Sheepshead Buttress 28 Orient Point

Summary:

Rock climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.292033, -115.218293

1.5.1. The South Ghost 6 routes in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 51.271658, -115.198146

summary

The South Ghost is the area heading left from Big Hill towards Devil's Gap. It's a shorter drive than North Ghost and has none of the tricky river cruxes of the North. Big walls, beautiful ice routes!

description

Sometimes a good 4x4 truck is required and almost always at least high clearance to drive all the way in. Usually a car will be able to make it to at least the top of the Big Hill (85% of the way). Walking from the Big Hill to climbs in the Devil's Gap only adds about 30 minutes of mostly flat walking.

The rule of thumb for driving in the Ghost is: When in doubt, get out and walk it first. Having a spotter for more adventurous sections isn't a bad idea either. Getting a trashed vehicle out of the Ghost is not cheap.

Get a high clearance vehicle and head into the Ghost. Hang a left into the dry riverbed at the bottom of the Big Hill. Look for the best spot to get in and out, being wary that the stones can be loose and your car/truck can sink into them. Crossing the riverbed leads to another dirt road and some options depending on your destination.

access issues

The driving is in the Ghost River Public Land Use Zone (PLUZ) - a camping pass is required, but day trips are free. Most climbs are in Banff NP.

approach

The road past Big Hill on most maps seems to now be blocked by a large embankment build after the floods. This is easily visible once you cross the riverbed and head left from Big Hill.

To get past it, simply keep going south until it ends. There is a "portal" (opening surrounded by large rocks) at 51.278322, -115.147946. Go through this to the other side of the embankment and follow the road to park at 51.282303, -115.171226. Going past this would put you into Banff NP - no driving!

1.5.2. The North Ghost 20 routes in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 51.332867, -115.238921

1.5.3. Waiparous Creek 4 routes in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

approach

A stock 4wd is normally sufficient to access this area. Continue driving on highway 40 past the South Ghost turn off for about 16.5km before turning left onto Waiparous Creek Road. Take the left hand at the fork and continue down this 4wd road for approximately 13km until you reach marker 129 at the creek. Park here. Cross the creek and take the cut line south (left). Follow this cut line directly to go towards Kemosabe and The Ice Funnel or take the ATV tracks left to head towards Hydrophobia. Approximately 1.5-2hrs walk in.

1.5.4. Wild West Wall Left 4 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.5.5. The Arrowhead 6 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.5.6. Wild West Wall Right 7 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.5.7. Bonanza Area 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.5.8. Descent Wall 5 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.5.9. West Phantom Crag 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.5.10. Phantom Bluffs East 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

summary

A great spot in the Ghost with close camping and a relatively short approach

access issues

Like everything in the Ghost, it requires 4WD and some clearance to get to.

1.5.11. Borderline Buttress Left 10 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

1.5.12. Borderline Buttress Right 10 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

1.5.13. Super Heroes Tower, Southwest 8 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

1.5.14. Super Heroes Tower, Southeast 5 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.5.15. Short But Sweet 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.5.16. The Haystack, South Face 10 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.5.17. The Haystack, East Face 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.5.18. The Haystack, North Side 8 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.5.19. Morning Glory Tower 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.5.20. Wully Wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Sport climbing

1.5.21. Square Buttress 8 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.5.22. North Phantom Crag 4 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.5.23. Sentinel Triangle 19 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.313865, -115.202473

1.5.24. Silver-Tongued Devil Crag 24 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.321762, -115.204942

1.5.25. Curbside Crags: The Monolith 4 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.5.26. Bastion Wall 7 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.5.27. Curbside Crags: Sheepshead Buttress 5 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 51.317418, -115.216195

1.5.28. Orient Point 11 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 51.249136, -115.163684

1.6. Yamnuska 200 routes in Crag

11 9 6 5 4 3 2 1

1 West End 2 Necromancer 3 CMC Wall 4 Suicide Wall 5 Bottleneck 6 Kahl Wall 9 East End 11 Mount Doom

Summary:

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.127096, -115.114695

description

Yumnuska is a mecca of trad climbing situated only 25 minutes out of Canmore. With routes are anywhere between 30 meters to 300 meters, and can be graded between 5.5 to 5.13, there really is something for everyone. The catch - Climbing at Mt Yumnuska is like trying to climb a giant block of fetta cheese. As such, helmets are strongly recommended.

approach

Park at the Mt Yumnuska trail head and follow the obvious path upwards from the toilet block. Follow the path over the quarry access road, and you will see a climber managed log book. It's a good idea to list what climb you intending to do, and check if your intended climb for the day has already been claimed. The average party will take an hour to ascend the 500m elevation to the base of the cliff. Approximately 3/4 of the way up, you will see a fork which provides access to different areas of the mountain. On the right there will be a hikers path, which is a longer but less steep access route the base of Ravens End on the Eastern most side of the mountain. Otherwise take either of the climbers access paths depending on which route you intend to climb for the day

1.6.1. West End 28 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 51.121461, -115.121739

1.6.2. Necromancer 9 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 51.122542, -115.119014

1.6.3. CMC Wall 10 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 51.123362, -115.117375

1.6.4. Suicide Wall 11 routes in Area

Summary:

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 51.123891, -115.115969

1.6.5. Bottleneck 17 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 51.124240, -115.114510

1.6.6. Kahl Wall 10 routes in Area

Summary:

Rock climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.124891, -115.111520

1.6.7. Red Shirt 8 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

1.6.8. Yellow Edge 16 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

1.6.9. East End 23 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.127227, -115.106847

1.6.10. Raven's End 10 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

1.6.11. Mount Doom 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.130242, -115.119460

1.6.12. Big Choss 55 routes in Unknown

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.7. Goat Mountain 116 routes in Crag

5 4 3 2 1

1 Lower Kid Goat 2 Kid Goat 3 Nanny Goat 4 Goat Slabs 5 Goat Wall

Summary:

Rock climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.103697, -115.135556

1.7.1. Lower Kid Goat 17 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.084428, -115.131135

summary

Lower Kid Goat is home to a number of beginner sport climbs and ground anchors to practice skills.

1.7.2. Kid Goat 43 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.086284, -115.133057

1.7.3. Nanny Goat 33 routes in Area

Summary:

Rock climbing, Alpine climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.090666, -115.134329

1.7.4. Goat Slabs 13 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 51.100024, -115.134438

1.7.5. Goat Wall 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

Rock climbing, Aid climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.112825, -115.136576

1.8. Canmore 1,725 routes in Area

16 20 28 4 34 31 2 3 33 11 27 5 7 19 30 12 14 13 8 17 18 1 21 6 22 36 37 29 26 10 35 9 32

1 Acephale 2 Echo Canyon 3 Bataan 4 Cougar Canyon 5 Grassi Lakes 6 Heart Creek 7 Grotto Canyon 8 Bonsai Boulders 9 Windtower 10 Rimwall 11 EEOR 12 Kanga Crag 13 Viagra Point 14 Ha Ling Peak 16 The Stoneworks 17 Grotto Corner 18 Crag X 19 Steve Canyon 20 Mount Fable 21 McGillivray Slabs 22 McGillivary Canyon 26 Stewart Creek 27 Grotto Mountain 28 Lady Macdonald 29 Three Sisters 30 The Drive-In 31 Door Jamb Mountain 32 Old Goat Glacier Boulders 33 The Cave (The Vsion) 34 Elevation Place 35 Oliver Twist 36 Blue Cheese 37 Expressions Wall

Summary:

Sport climbing, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.028633, -115.311851

summary

This is Southern Alberta's major climbing area. It is centered around the town of Canmore, and most of it is also known as the Bow Valley.

description

Tons of trad and sport climbing in dozens of crags. The best season is from April to October. Canmore is the center of the climbing in the Bow Valley.

approach

You can reach Canmore from Calgary by bus or car. You might need a car to reach the crags in Bow Valley.

1.8.1. Acephale 106 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.056397, -115.123769

1.8.2. Echo Canyon 225 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.087640, -115.285887

summary

This jewel offers all, technical, powerful, crimpy and juggy climbing on awesome rock.

approach

Park on the road below the Canmore Alpine Club House and hike up steep across the road.

1.8.3. Bataan 107 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.081673, -115.278451

summary

Pockets and very solid rock after the first bout or So. Very European styled and water streaked.

description

For a Crag with the same amount of time for an approach as a lot of busy others on Grotto mountain, Bataan is certainly a contender for the best limestone in the Bow Valley!! The quality of these water sculpted cliffs are unparalled, with positions high above the scientific valley is magnificent. Bataans vertical to slightly overhanging walls feature many long and sustained routes that are littered with pockets, jugs and edges- endurance is the name of the game. Climbers are slowly realizing the huge potential for the future there, and that the rewards of climbing on pristine blue grey and yellow streaks far outweigh the hike up and crowds.

access issues

Walk around the mining scar! Do not go onto it- as it is private land.

approach

50 mins to first cave 1.20 to Pacific Theatre.

where to stay

Canmore Banff YYC

ethic

Rockie mountain climbing.

history

A lot! First bolted in 1991 this is a crag with deep Roots in B.Valley climbing.

1.8.4. Cougar Canyon 264 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.104467, -115.302462

approach

There is a small parking area on Elk Run Blvd. From the car park walk up the creek for approximately 15 minutes.

1.8.5. Grassi Lakes 103 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.072070, -115.407574

1.8.6. Heart Creek 223 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.041469, -115.146660

1.8.7. Grotto Canyon 266 routes in Crag

Summary:

Rock climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.071512, -115.225411

1.8.8. Bonsai Boulders 44 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.062063, -115.043386

summary

Good beginner bouldering area near Seebe, AB. The rock is conglomerate and can be a bit sharp.

description

The area consists of a few sub areas, hiding within a fairly dense forest. The trail is well marked and maintained by WABA.

access issues

Be mindful of the equestrian riders who share the trail.

1.8.9. Windtower 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.989556, -115.289750

summary

A very cool looking peak just to the south of Rimwall. Several established routes offer good climbing and there is plenty of scope for harder routes on the steep north face.

approach

As for Rimwall. Drive 22km up the Smith-Dorrein Spray Lakes Road once past the Grassi Lakes day use area and park at the pullout for the Spurling Creek trail. Head up the trail to the col between the Windtower and Rimwall gaining about 500m elevation. Descend onto the scree slopes below the col and traverse under the face of the Windtower to your chosen adventure.

1.8.10. Rimwall 4 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 50.996324, -115.309932

summary

Peak Rimwall (2685m) is a large clean face you can't help but stare at when driving on Highway 1 into Canmore.

description

Routes on the face have an alpine feel with generally limited to no bolts for runners or anchors. However access is close and if you top out its an easy walk off the backside. Rock quality is reasonably good by Rockies standards.

approach

Drive along the Smith-Dorrien Spray Trail from Canmore for about 22km once past the Grassi Lakes day use area. Park at the obvious pullout for Spurling Creek trail. Hike up the obvious trail to the col between Rimwall and Windtower gaining around 500m elevation.

1.8.11. EEOR 37 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.074796, -115.418450

description

Extensively covered in its own chapter of Banff Rock (http://banffrock.ca).

approach

Access via a climber's trail across the road from a wide pull-out a few hundred metres before the Goat Creek parking lot. In 20-25 minutes, you should arrive at the base of Parallel Dreams/True Grit; follow the trail at the base of the cliffs to access other climbs.

See Banff Rock for further information.

1.8.12. Kanga Crag 42 routes in Crag

Summary:

Rock climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.067223, -115.419112

1.8.13. Viagra Point 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 51.064735, -115.411981

1.8.14. Ha Ling Peak 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.064848, -115.400299

1.8.15. Canmore Wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

1.8.16. The Stoneworks 55 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.125746, -115.334166

description

Generally steep and short climbing on water polished limestone. Described by one local as 'the crag if Grotto Canyon and Carrot Creek had a child'

access issues

Access is next to a Golf Course. Please be discreet with parking and be respectful to others by minimizing noise and not loitering.

approach

Park at Silvertips Golf Course then follow the track at the end of the road. At the main intersection take a left heading uphill until you reach the main drainage. Either find a faint trail on the right hand side of the drainage or head directly up until you enter the gorge and the climbing.

1.8.17. Grotto Corner 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 51.061878, -115.239981

1.8.18. Crag X 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.061361, -115.225684

1.8.19. Steve Canyon 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 51.071008, -115.210690

description

A little dirty, due to low climber traffic. Be prepared for some clever footwork and hand holds due to a thin layer of dirt. However the climbs are pretty good otherwise!

approach

Park at the Grotto Pond and take the trail left of the porta potty. About 2-3 into the trail it will deviate to the right. Follow into the rocky canyon bed. May have water in it but it has been pretty dry the last few years (2016) . You have gone to far on the main trail if you see an open meadow and wide rocky creek bed. That will be Grotto Canyon, which is awesome too.

1.8.20. Mount Fable 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

Alpine climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 51.118538, -115.227241

1.8.21. McGillivray Slabs 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

Rock climbing, Ice climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.042110, -115.185507

1.8.22. McGillivary Canyon 43 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.039222, -115.196230

1.8.23. Bathtub Brook 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.8.24. The Alcove 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.8.25. The Sanctuary 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.8.26. Stewart Creek 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 51.015704, -115.325050

1.8.27. Grotto Mountain 46 routes in Area

Summary:

Ice climbing, Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.074474, -115.269800

1.8.28. Lady Macdonald 2 routes in Area

Summary:

Ice climbing and Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 51.115003, -115.315010

description

South east ridge of Lady Macdonald. Begins further down cougar creek attaining the skyline east ridge. Lots of scrambling with 3 pitches of 5.6-5.7

access issues

Cougar creek

ethic

Trad and every loose choss

1.8.29. Three Sisters 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 51.018445, -115.344722

1.8.30. The Drive-In 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 51.068599, -115.148172

description

Drytooling crag just East of Exshaw. Short approach to relatively short, well-bolted routes.

1.8.31. Door Jamb Mountain 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

Rock climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.085366, -115.140884

1.8.32. Old Goat Glacier Boulders 0 routes in Area

summary

A bunch of lower grade boulders mixed with some high level high-balls.

description

The area is sitting on a scree slope in the valley of Goat Mountain. Beautiful area to climb in with the view of a waterfall nearby.

access issues

The valley is available at all times but the trail access is in the area of a campground which is closed from mid-September to mid-May which requires you to walk an extra 1.5km from your parking location

approach

Follow the Smith Dorrien Trail which is accessed by driving past the parking lot for Ha Ling Peak until you reach a sign that says West Spray Lakes Campground. At this point turn right and follow the road along the North-West side of the Spray Lakes called West Side Road (On Google Maps). Follow the road into the campground area until you reach a sign that says Trailhead parking. There are two routes you can take from here. One is following the trail at the parking lot another is walking along the gravel road to the left of the parking lot till you reach a sign that says No Parking. Taking this trail skips a somewhat steep cliff that you cannot go around if you take the Trailhead Parking path. Follow the trail along the stream for about 2.5km (30-45min) until you reach the valley. You will know it when you see it. The boulder field will be on your left after exiting the forest. Follow the obvious trail up to the boulders.

where to stay

You can either stay overnight in Canmore or choose to camp in the campground where the trail is accessed.

1.8.33. The Cave (The Vsion) 0 routes in Gym

description

Bow Meadows Cres

Canmore

Alberta T1W 1P2 Canada

https://www.facebook.com/Canmore-Indoor-Climbing-Society-157521384341072/

call: (403) 678-8803

1.8.34. Elevation Place 12 routes in Gym

Summary:

Bouldering and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.088695, -115.350366

summary

Elevation place climbing gym. Keeping ticks to keep stoked through shitty weather days

description

Climbing Gym

1.8.35. Oliver Twist 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 50.994377, -115.338247

description

This nice ice climb features a lower angle bottom section and a more vertical section at the top.

The route is top-rope friendly. Easiest top-rope access is to head up into the trees to the left of where the large diagonal cliff band starts from the creek. Alternatively, you can hike up to the base of the ice and scramble through the cliff band to the right of the ice via 4th class terrain.

approach

Park alongside the highway and follow the scrambler's route up The Orphan route. The ice will be visible on the left hand side.

There are significant avalanche slopes on the approach and the drainage is a terrain trap. Take caution when there is snow on the approach slopes. There are large slopes above the climb as well, but it's not as directly exposed to avalanche terrain.

1.8.36. Blue Cheese 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 51.025687, -115.423900

1.8.37. Expressions Wall 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.020313, -115.421609

description

Some of the finest and most featured blue streaks of limestone with likely the most exposed approach in the Bow Valley.

access issues

Pets and small children will NOT be able to safely get through the chain section. Wear a helmet through the chain section, you can potentially knock rocks down on other party members. If you get caught up here in the rain it can be very hard to get down.

Source Matthew Hendsbee, PDF-Topo

approach

Drive 10 minutes past Grassi Lakes to Goat Pond. There will be a small bridge. Park either before the bridge on the right or after the bridge on the left at (51.02371, -115.40108).

Walk west across the road/dam on the north side of Goat Pond. Once you get to the other side (10 minutes), you will hit a large bike trail. Do not take this trail and continue going straight up towards the base of the drainage.

Flagging leads you to a trail in the woods, which you access by going up the left side of the drainage. It's a bit steep getting out of the drainage, but then you follow the gentle uphill in the forest with a well-worn trail until it leads back into the drainage up higher. Continue up the drainage until you see flagging up and right. You will then exit the drainage on the right-hand side to enter a dense bushy area.

Follow the trail in the bushes up to switchbacks on the scree. Follow this to the base of a cliff next to a waterfall in spring/early summer. To this point it's about 25 minutes (halfway). Follow the trail up and right, now much steeper. It sometimes switchbacks but is usually just straight up and right. Soon you will hit an extremely exposed system of ledges and slabs which have chains equipped. Follow sections of chains up exposed terrain for about 25 minutes until you reach the perch where the wall is. Finish the last bit up the mossy slope with a poor trail, heading slightly right to get to the actual crag.

Source Matthew Hendsbee, PDF-Topo

history

This wall was first developed by Jeff Relph, Paddy Jerome and Ross Suchy approximately 15 years ago (2007?). A handful of the most obvious blue streaks were bolted and climbed, and are some of the finest and most featured blue streaks of limestone in the Bow Valley. While the crag was clearly incredible with much more potential, the approach was going to take so much effort to build that it was abandoned until 2012. The crag sits upon a cliffy perch, surrounded by slabs, gulley’s and bluffs which make it very difficult to access safely.

In 2012, Kate Johnson and Miles Adamson heard about the wall from Jeff. Just getting into route development at the time, they checked it out and decided to add some more routes and try to build a trail. They added 5 more routes and built a trail up the right-hand gully, installing some sections of chain as a handrail. While the approach got you there, it was not safe enough due to rockfall hazards in the gulley. This approach was decommissioned and the wall remained inaccessible until 2022.

This year (2022) Matt Hendsbee, Kelsey Fleming, Kate Johnson and Miles Adamson installed chains and ladder rungs up a left to right rising traverse on slabs and narrow ledges. While they took every measure possible to make sure it is easy to get up there, an uncontrolled fall off the second half of the approach would be fatal. People who struggle with exposure or do not trust themselves with their hands on a chain will not be able to get to the wall. Even with the chains, it is likely the most exposed approach in the Bow Valley (at least for sport crags).

Source Matthew Hendsbee, PDF-Topo

1.8.38. Jura Creek 4 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.9. Banff 707 routes in Area

15 13 5 9 3 21 12 16 6 17 14 19 7 25 20 4 18 11 1 2 23 8 27 24 22

1 Ravens Crag 2 Carrot Creek 3 Black Feather Canyon 4 Tunnel Mountain 5 Silver City 6 Mt. Louis 7 Guides Rock 8 Sunshine Rock 9 Coral Crag 11 Mt Rundle 12 Cascade Mountain 13 Castle Mountain 14 Mount Norquay 15 Protection Valley 16 Storm Mountain 17 Pilot Mountain 18 Step Right Up 19 Bear Spirit Crag 20 Fireside Road 21 Lake Minewanka 22 Mount Bourgeau 23 Spray Slabs 24 Selenium Falls/Spray River Falls 25 Mount Cory, West Face 27 Sundance Canyon

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.226272, -115.724134

1.9.1. Ravens Crag 30 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.161280, -115.589405

summary

On Sulphur Mountain overlooking Banff and the Vermillion Lakes. The cliff is in the shade due to it's NW facing exposure. There is currently only a handful of routes, but their quality are excellent.

description

In between steep and face climbing, the beauty silver, blue and black streaked walls of Ravens is nothing short of stunning. The premier crag of Banff rivalling Acephale for quality of limestone.

access issues

A large portion below Ravens is closed off to all people, due to wildlife. Please use only the entrance and exit trail.

approach

Park at Cave and Basin's new car park (2015). Walk past the information centre, follow the over road up his slightly and walk right around the large Cave And Basin Mikarty barracks. Past the Cafe follow the small asphalt trail known as Sundance Canyon trail. 500ms past the Sundance Canyon map on the right, is a small trail on the left hand side with a large log across the entrance. Follow this trail for another 500ms then look for a Cairn. The trail to Ravens starts here in the left. 20-30minutes straight uphill from this trail. Stick to the path which has plenty of Cairns as to not disrupt the wildlife corridor. Approach is 2.5km's with 300m's elevation. 30-40mins from car to wall. Enjoy!

where to stay

Banff town.

ethic

Lots of Retrofitting and building currently underway. Be vigilante of new routes or building underway. The crag is slowly turning into all glue in's.

history

The legend- Peter Arbics stomping grounds from the 90's, with most routes named after Edgar Allan Poe poems reiterating the gothic theme of the shady wall. The Prowl project looks to be a contender for one of the hardest 14's in the Valley. Respect the wildlife and leave draws on Projects.

1.9.2. Carrot Creek 144 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.161007, -115.395363

description

It resides in the Banff National Park, and has it’s own parking area, thanks to a few things, but about 2 km from the park gates, heading west, turn right into the parking area. The main function of this parking area used to be for the Banff Waste Disposal/Dump, but many people forget this and decide to ignore the fact. The park service covered and filled it in and did a very nice job, put up a new fence and built a nice set of stairs for hikers, walkers and climbers to get over the fence. Then the Honorable Sheilah Copps, minister of Heritage for the Liberal Federal government decided to make the area a wildlife corridor (not that the wildlife hadn’t used this area for eons) and removed the stairs, but could not legally shut access down – simply asked climbers to refrain from climbing in the canyon. Most of us abided by the rule, and still do, and climbed elsewhere. The parks service started clear-cutting the area for a firewall to protect Canmore. Well, as you may notice, clear cutting and fires will do more to detract from the “wildlife” than climbers and hikers. Besides that, why build a firewall to protect Canmore in the Park itself? The parks service could easily have built one just outside the park boundary – well we may never know, as the federal government has never been very good at coming clean or being “smart” about it’s environmental decisions - Enough of that. New Parks Work There are many other areas to climb – but this one has history and I wanted to let climbers know about it.

1.9.3. Black Feather Canyon 60 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.260646, -115.495846

access issues

Black feather skirts around closely to wildlife corridors. Be carful or best wsrnings up in Fall. Respect the wildlife and don’t litter. This is a national park

approach

park at Lake Miniewanka car park next to the lake. Walk around the lake toward Stewart Canyon and the bridge. Cross bridge and keep walking along the river untill a clearing and another canyon intersects. Follow this up it’s drainage. This is Black Feather Canyon

where to stay

Banff Canmore

ethic

Sport climbing. No manufactured holds thanks

1.9.4. Tunnel Mountain 109 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.175580, -115.553620

1.9.5. Silver City 50 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.290142, -115.908687

summary

White Quarzite Crag. Some routes are clean and climb great! Others well yeah....

description

http://topos.tabvar.org/sites/default/files/2014_Silver_City_Update_smallpages_v2.pdf

approach

1.15hr

1.9.6. Mt. Louis 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.215163, -115.677236

1.9.7. Guides Rock 24 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.185066, -115.702422

1.9.8. Sunshine Rock 94 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.154216, -115.685485

summary

Popular crag in Banff National Park. Mostly 5.6-5.10 routes with a 1-minute approach, it's a perfect location for beginner and intermediate climbers.

description

Mainly short, slabby climbs with a limited number of 20-30m routes. Older, but mostly accurate, topo available from TABVAR: http://www.tabvar.org/node/209

access issues

None.

approach

Shortest approach in the Canadian Rockies! Take the Trans-Canada Highway to Sunshine Exit, the parking lot is on the left immediately after the Texas gates. Park and walk 50m to the wall.

1.9.9. Coral Crag 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.287562, -115.525576

summary

Faceclimbing, highly tech on small edges and crimps.

description

coral crag is located on the northside of the cascade river 2km upstream of B.F.C.

access issues

cascade fire rd

history

gets the sun from mid day on

1.9.10. 007 crag 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

summary

Super sharp limestone

description

Interesting collection of small cliffs on th hill before the descent into sunshine village parking lot.

approach

Park on the pullout opposite and bush wack up. No path to crag as it is an avalanche path that frequently runs most winters

1.9.11. Mt Rundle 63 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bouldering, Ice climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.118315, -115.471384

1.9.12. Cascade Mountain 15 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 51.222695, -115.560904

1.9.13. Castle Mountain 9 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.302540, -115.931984

1.9.14. Mount Norquay 10 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.190398, -115.632379

description

The east summit of Norquay is formed from a long uplift of limestone that runs approximately north-south perpendicular to the highway Trans Canada.

approach

Lower and upper slabs approach starts from a small parking area on the highway. A start distance from the T intersection of mount Norquay ski hill. From that intersection drive west for 2.1km untill the concrete barrier on the right side of the highway ends and there is a small, flat area below the hill side where cars are parked.

where to stay

Banff

1.9.15. Protection Valley 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 51.339987, -115.981327

1.9.16. Storm Mountain 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 51.217944, -116.018967

1.9.17. Pilot Mountain 1 route in Unknown

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 51.193216, -115.815828

1.9.18. Step Right Up 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 51.174648, -115.678107

1.9.19. Bear Spirit Crag 12 routes in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 51.187092, -115.668876

summary

Beautiful hike in. Top rope access so a great place to work laps on either water ice or mixed routes.

access issues

You will need a Banff National Park pass as the crag is here. Passes can be bought as you enter the National Park from Canmore.

approach

Park at the Fireside car park. Walk uphill along the closed road for approximately 200m before you meet a drainage on your left. Follow this along what will normally be a well worn trail for approximately 30mins until you reach a small cave. Put crampons on here and head up a fixed line for 10m than walk for another 10mins to reach the climbing.

where to stay

Canmore or Banff provide great access to ice climbing in the Bow Valley though it is not cheap. Calgary is the major city nearby.

1.9.20. Fireside Road 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 51.180654, -115.651143

1.9.21. Lake Minewanka 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 51.246963, -115.447625

1.9.22. Mount Bourgeau 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 51.131414, -115.775036

1.9.23. Spray Slabs 17 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.157839, -115.550195

description

Delicate slab moves on micro-holds that sometimes flake off if you aren't careful.

access issues

Be bear-aware. Particularly on week-days when the trail is not as well traveled.

approach

Park at the Spray Loop parking area behind the Banff Spings Hotel. Walk down the trail approx 1km and turn left down to the Spray River. At the bottom of the hill, cross the bridge and turn right. After 20m you will start to see the routes on the slab to your left.

1.9.24. Selenium Falls/Spray River Falls 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 51.135401, -115.553622

summary

A great ice climb in an uncrowded location.

description

Multipitch Ice climbing in a location which sees few visitors, close to town but by no means short on adveture. While the climb definitely sees some some ascents, there is a good chance you may be breaking trail uphill for quite a distance to gain the climb after leaving the track. The ice climb itself was in untouched condition when we climbed it, and by everything thing I have heard that is normal - expect proper WI4 conditions, not hooked out WI4. Each pitch gets a little harder than the last, the crux being cranking out of the belay cave onto the exposed WI4 pitch!

access issues

Park at the Banff Upper Hot Springs car park, at the far end (away from the hot springs complex)

approach

description to follow

where to stay

Canmore YHA,

1.9.25. Mount Cory, West Face 3 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 51.183111, -115.701494

approach

Access to two multi-pitch rock climbs via Muleshoe Parking. For further details, see tabvar.org.

1.9.26. 1A Highway 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Ice climbing

1.9.27. Sundance Canyon 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.154212, -115.613450

1.10. Lake Louise 275 routes in Crag

17 1 2 12 3 4 6 14 5 7 8 9 10 11 13 18 19 20 22

1 Louise Falls 2 Hillside Wall 3 Trailside 4 Outhouse Area 5 Air Voyage Wall 6 The Amphitheatre 7 Liquid Sky Wall 8 Pond Area 9 Blob Rock 10 Duckland 11 Hanging Gardens 12 Rockfall Wall 13 Kaleidoscope Pinnacle 14 Scorched Earth Wall 17 Goblin Wall 18 Saddle Mountain 19 Paradise Wall 20 Mount Victoria 22 Mt Temple

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.454040, -116.181068

summary

Horizontal cracks and bucket hard quartzite

description

One of Bow Valleys best. Bullet hard Quartzite, at one of the most photographed natural attractions of North America. So many classic climbs Trad and Sport. Enjoy.

access issues

It's a National park. Be a descent respectful person

approach

20mins along the lake trail

where to stay

Lake Louise, bow valley

ethic

Trad cracks stay trad.

history

Tons. Classics for days

1.10.1. Louise Falls 16 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing, Ice climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.408075, -116.241316

1.10.2. Hillside Wall 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 51.407833, -116.240862

summary

Collection of two-pitch routes with exposure and great views.

1.10.3. Trailside 10 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.407237, -116.240973

1.10.4. Outhouse Area 47 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.406751, -116.241119

summary

Some of the most sought out classics in the Bow Valley! Enjoy

1.10.5. Air Voyage Wall 16 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.405591, -116.241382

1.10.6. The Amphitheatre 24 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.405951, -116.241502

1.10.7. Liquid Sky Wall 13 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.405484, -116.241594

1.10.8. Pond Area 30 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.405183, -116.241894

1.10.9. Blob Rock 17 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.404940, -116.242161

1.10.10. Duckland 15 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.404826, -116.242617

1.10.11. Hanging Gardens 7 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.404640, -116.243076

1.10.12. Rockfall Wall 11 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 51.407571, -116.227540

1.10.13. Kaleidoscope Pinnacle 7 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.404254, -116.235725

1.10.14. Scorched Earth Wall 6 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.405715, -116.232239

1.10.15. Fraggle Rock 5 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.10.16. Hydrotherapy Wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:

Rock climbing and Sport climbing

1.10.17. Goblin Wall 12 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.411000, -116.220790

1.10.18. Saddle Mountain 4 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 51.394557, -116.208941

summary

Quartzite multi-pitch, just far enough from the car to keep crowds at bay

description

The E/SE faces of Saddle Mountain are an outcropping of high-quality Gog Quartzite just a few kilometres from Lake Louise Upper Parking Lot. Excellent trad multi-pitch routes abound.

approach

Take the hiker’s trail to Saddleback Pass, and branch off the main trail a few hundred metres from the trail’s high-point. Step across a very small creek, proceed through a narrow stand of larches, and follow cairns to a midline ledge that circumnavigates the East face of Saddle Mountain (Buddha Buttress). A well-worn approach trail can be followed around to the base of the Southeast face (Toys in the Attic, MacTrump Route, Screams from the Balcony, ...).

1.10.19. Paradise Wall 14 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.392892, -116.216202

1.10.20. Mount Victoria 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 51.377401, -116.301415

summary

The long-ridged peak towering above the end of the valley above Lake Louise. Classic alpine routes.

description

Mount Victoria is one of the classic peaks of the Lake Louise area (and with its position at the head of the valley above the lake, is also one of the most photographed).

Both the north and south summits have classic mountaineering routes up their ridges, and while lacking in hard technical routes they are still sought-after objectives for many Rockies climbers.

approach

Depends on the route. See individual descriptions.

ethic

This peak is located in a National Park. Endeavour to leave no trace and keep the mountain the way it was when you arrived.

1.10.21. Haffner Creek 0 routes in Area

1.10.22. Mt Temple 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 51.364841, -116.211192

1.11. Valley of the Ten Peaks 12 routes in Area

1 6 2 5 4

1 The Grand Sentinel 2 Mount Babel 4 Mount Fay 5 Deltaform Mountain 6 Neptuak Mountain

Summary:

Alpine climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.328390, -116.211039

summary

Stunning alpine climbs and alpine vistas around one of the most photographed places in Banff National Park.

description

One of the most picturesque areas in the Rockies, this valley contains everything from easy scrambles to some of the hardest technical alpine routes in the Banff/Lake Louise area. Notable classics such as the North Face of Mount Fay, the Supercouloir of Mount Deltaform, and the East Ridge and Greenwood-Locke routes on Mount Temple are all found in this region.

The sheer quartzite pinnacle of the Grand Sentinel is also approached from Moraine Lake, over the crest of Sentinel Pass on the shoulder of Mount Temple.

access issues

Contained within Banff National Park. Be respectful, don't litter. Bivies are restricted depending on route. Moraine Lake parking fills up early in the summer. Moraine Lake Road closes to cars in the winter.

approach

Drive to Moraine Lake or one of the parking lots along the road, then hike in from there. Another option for a later start is using the shuttle to get to Moraine.

where to stay

Lake Louise or elsewhere in the Bow Valley. Neil Colgan Hut is available for booking through the ACC if attempting climbs on Fay, Little, Bowlen or nearby.

1.11.1. The Grand Sentinel 2 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.344208, -116.229608

1.11.2. Mount Babel 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 51.308032, -116.164309

description

Mount Babel is a mountain peak of the Bow Range in Banff National Park, Alberta, Canada. The mountain can be seen from the Valley of the Ten Peaks.

Mount Babel was first climbed by A Hart, Edward Oliver Wheeler, L. Wilson and H. Worsfold in 1910.

1.11.3. Tower of Babel 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.11.4. Mount Fay 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 51.297803, -116.165907

summary

Rambly west ridge to icy north face to steep and forbidding east face, this peak has it all.

approach

North Face routes and the West Ridge of Fay are approached via one of two options - the Perren Route or Schiesser Ledges.

1.11.5. Deltaform Mountain 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 51.303048, -116.245958

summary

The prominent sharply pointed peak at the head of the valley.

approach

For most routes, hike up the Wenkchemna Pass trail from Moraine Lake. For the standard Northwest Route, continue all the way to the pass, and approach the Deltaform-Neptuak Col via the Northwest then Southeast Ridges of Neptuak, traversing the mountain.

For the routes on the North Face and Buttress, before Eiffel Lake descend to the lake and cross moraines and the Wenkchemna Glacier (rock covered most of the year) to below the face.

For the routes on the east side of the mountain, take either the Schiesser Ledges or Perren Route to gain the upper plateau of the Ten Peaks, and traverse below Mount Allan (Shappee) and Mount Tuzo (Sagowa).

1.11.6. Neptuak Mountain 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 51.309031, -116.261061

description

"Neptuak" is the Stoney Indian word for "nine" as Neptuak Mountain is peak #9 in the Valley of the Ten Peaks. It is located on the Continental Divide, which is also the British Columbia-Alberta border in this region, and is in the Bow Range of the Park Ranges of the Canadian Rockies. The summit is a tripoint for Banff National Park, Kootenay National Park, and Yoho National Park, where the three parks share a common border. Source Wikipedia

history

Neptuak Mountain was named by Samuel E.S. Allen in 1894. Source Wikipedia

1.12. Icefields Parkway 50 routes in Crag

10 9 11 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

1 Mt Hector 2 Mt Andromache 3 Bow Falls 4 Mt Murchison 5 Mount Wilson 6 Polar Circus 7 Weeping Wall 8 Cineplex 9 Tangle Ridge 10 Beauty Creek 11 Mount Alberta

Summary:

Ice climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 51.934438, -116.862573

description

The Icefields Parkway stretches between Lake Louise and Jasper, connecting the two major west-east routes through the Canadian Rockies. Along the way, it passes through some of the most spectacular terrain in Canada. The Columbia Icefields and surrounding peaks, Mount Wilson, Bow, Peyto and Hector Lakes and more are all found along this road.

where to stay

A network of wilderness hostels stretch between Lake Louise and Jasper, administered through Hosteling International. These are probably the most comfortable (especially in the winter ice climbing season) but campgrounds are also available. Note: Van camping in pullouts is illegal in the National Parks.

1.12.1. Mt Hector 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 51.562253, -116.241655

1.12.2. Mt Andromache 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 51.611060, -116.295667

1.12.3. Bow Falls 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 51.654779, -116.498428

1.12.4. Mt Murchison 6 routes in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 51.920391, -116.687522

1.12.5. Mount Wilson 10 routes in Area

Summary:

Ice climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 52.022575, -116.786914

summary

Site of many long ice testpieces, and a few hard trad multipitches, Mount Wilson has much to offer.

description

Towering over a vertical kilometer above Saskatchewan River Crossing on the Icefields Parkway, Mount Wilson is visible from quite some distance away. The peak and its quartzite towers sport everything from easy ice climbs like Lady Wilson's Cleavage up to massive lines like Suntori, the rock climbs on Peyto Tower and everything in between!

1.12.6. Polar Circus 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 52.139940, -116.983484

approach

About 1 Km south from Weeping Wall on the Icefields Parkway #93

1.12.7. Weeping Wall 14 routes in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 52.154583, -117.002805

1.12.8. Cineplex 3 routes in Unknown

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 52.182426, -117.055560

description

Panther Falls ice and mixed

1.12.9. Tangle Ridge 5 routes in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 52.284199, -117.282120

1.12.10. Beauty Creek 4 routes in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 52.315430, -117.281290

1.12.11. Mount Alberta 3 routes in Area

Summary:

All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 52.285669, -117.483582

1.13. Columbia Icefields 9 routes in Area

3 1 2

1 Mount Athabasca 2 Mount Andromeda 3 The Twins

Summary:

All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 52.140170, -117.310320

summary

The crown jewel of the Icefields Parkway, the Columbia Icefields contain everything from moderate snow and ice routes to world-renowned alpine routes.

description

Located on the Icefields Parkway, but deserving of an area all to itself, the Columbia Icefields hold some of the testpiece alpine routes of North America, put up by a who's who of climbers from around the world.

Notable routes include the Andromeda Strain (Mt Andromeda), Grand Central Couloir (Mt Kitchener), Slipstream (Snowdome), and the prize of the lot - the imposing North Face of North Twin.

Despite the list of hard routes, the Icefields also contain great routes for all abilities of climbers - classic moderates include the Silverhorn and North Glacier of Mount Athabasca, Skyladder on Andromeda, and the many ski/walk ups from the plateau of the Columbia.

access issues

As with other places in the National Parks, motorized access is prohibited (no helicopters or snowmobiles are allowed). Check with Parks as during the winter and spring seasons the Parkway may be closed for avalanche control.

approach

Drive either up the Parkway from Lake Louise, or down from Jasper. Many routes require an approach up the heavily crevassed ramp of the Athabasca Glacier, or a long circuitous walk over Wooley Shoulder.

where to stay

Many routes on Athabasca and Andromeda are climbed in a one-day ascent from the car; other routes may require a high camp on the icefields. Check with Parks Canada about required permits.

1.13.1. Mount Athabasca 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 52.186401, -117.198016

description

Mount Athabasca is located in the Columbia Icefield of Jasper National Park in Canada. Athabasca is the Cree Indian name for "where there are reeds" which originally referred to Lake Athabasca. Source Wikipedia

history

The mountain was named in 1898 by J. Norman Collie, who made the first ascent on August 18 of that year. Source Wikipedia

1.13.2. Mount Andromeda 4 routes in Area

Summary:

Lat / Long: 52.173492, -117.237421

summary

Sometimes eclipsed by its neighbours Athabasca and Snow Dome, like many other peaks on the Icefield Andromeda holds both moderate snow and ice climbs and testpieces in equal measure.

description

From the Icefields Centre, the prominent gash of the Andromeda Strain, the gullies of Asteroid Alley and the Shooting Gallery, the broad North Bowl, and the Skyladder ridge all grab the viewer's attention.

Mount Andromeda has been near the forefront of alpine climbing in the Rockies for the last century, since its first ascent via the Athabasca Glacier in 1930. More recently, it has seen the Andromeda Strain soloed by the late Marc-Andre Leclerc, and continued new routing as late as 2006.

1.13.3. The Twins 1 route in Crag

Summary:

Lat / Long: 52.222329, -117.448238

1.14. Jasper National Park 375 routes in Area

23 1 2 19 21 20 18 17 5 4 11 12 6 14 15 25 22 26 24 16 9 8 10 3

1 Ogre Canyon 2 Bedson Ridge 3 Youth Lagoon 4 Juno 5 Juno wall 6 The Suburbs 8 Lost Boys 9 Dune Wall 10 Mt. Edith Cavell 11 Morro Slabs 12 Morro Bluffs 14 Boulder Gardens 15 Rock Gardens 16 Watchtower 17 Syncline 18 Hidden Valley 19 Ashlar Ridge 20 Rec Beach 21 Shredder Reef 22 Jasper Fitness & Aquatic Centre 23 Dr. Duncan Murray Recreation Centre 24 Highway 16 West 25 Rainy Day Slabs 26 Medicine Slab

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 52.855338, -117.992389

description

Jasper is a beautiful area of the Canadian Rockies. Jasper is a wilderness area with wild animals. Make sure you know what to do if you encounter bears or other wildlife. You are in their home, respect them.

access issues

Jasper is a National Park, park fees must be paid.

approach

From Edmonton - Take Yellowhead Trail (Highway 16) West for a little over 3 hours.

From Banff Area - from just West of Lake Louise take the Icefields Parkway (Highway 93) North until you get into the park. (Enjoy the view along this scenic drive)

where to stay

There are many hotels in the town of Jasper and in Hinton(45min east of Jasper). Camping is also available through the national park.

Camp site reservations https://reservation.pc.gc.ca/Jasper?gccf=true

Random camping

Random camping opportunities are available in remote areas of Jasper National Park. Campers wishing to camp randomly must purchase a backcountry camping permit by calling 780-852-6177 ext 2. Random camping permits cannot be booked online.

1.14.1. Ogre Canyon 26 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.243363, -117.884302

1.14.2. Bedson Ridge 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.232259, -117.885223

summary

Highly compact featured & highly limestone multi pitch climbs

description

6-12 pitches (200-400m) routes. 3 routes have bolted stations and good gear or fixed pro -No illusion, Dr. Dive and Return to Splendour. The others require pitons & may have challenging route finding.

access issues

Need to use the CNR railway tracks to walk to the crag regardless of approach by foot or canoe. This is private property Seems to be tolerated, but trains are frequent and often there's no option but to wait it out as a 1km+ train slowly rumbles by. Do not go through the tunnel-there are security cams. Probably best to go over rather than around by the river. There is a rough road west from Brule that takes ~45min-1h starting at end of the paved road (pretty much a 1 road town). Many gates along road that need to be closed behind you as you drive. High clearance vehicle recommended. The last gate goes on to CNR land right beside the tracks. We parked at the end of this but at the end of the day a note was left on our car and the gate was locked. They left phone number to call to get combo. You may find this gate locked from now on. So may be easiest to park outside that gate and walk from there. (additional 1-1.5km flat walk each way).

approach

It may be easier to approach by canoe if that is an option for you. It is described here: http://www.rescuedynamics.ca/jasper.rocks/Bedson.htm. Or drive in as described above. Go over railway tunnel and walk along tracks for about 30 minutes. Watch out for electric fencing around tracks on west side of tunnel. You will see B Minor cliff first and then B Major. For B Major look for a flagged trail leaving the tracks near the east end of a siding. It goes relatively straight up initially and then diagonals up to the cliff once you hit the open slopes.

where to stay

Camping at Pocohontas campground in Jasper park or William Switzer Provincial Park. Lots of possibilities for primitive camping closer by

1.14.3. Youth Lagoon 31 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 52.612861, -117.817063

summary

A re-discovered crag that was given some love during the great pandemic. There were 27 routes as of spring 2022 with more being developed. The routes are overhanging in nature on sloping holds.

access issues

It is in the national park so obey all park rules and temporary closures. Best to avoid this crag in the spring as major avalanche paths sweep into the narrow canyon where the crag is located. You may also encounter elk and other wild animals on approach so take appropriate precaution.

approach

From Jasper travel south on Highway 93 for 40km and park in a sandy pullout on the left about 6km south of the Kerkeslin Campground. Walk through the opening towards Mt Kerkeslin. Slightly to the right will be a narrow trail that will take you on an easy, enjoyable walk through a beautiful poplar forest for about 20 minutes before getting to a steeper section. A few minutes after you leave the aspen forest and start walking up the hill, look out for a another trail left. If you can see short cliffs in the distance in front of you before turning on the new trail, you’ve gone too far, go back a hundred meters. Follow the new trail for another 15 minutes, through a beautiful narrow canyon with a creek.

1.14.4. Juno 23 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.162211, -117.967046

1.14.5. Juno wall 0 routes in Crag

1.14.6. The Suburbs 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 52.988834, -118.085516

summary

Vertical routes, densely bolted.

1.14.7. Lake Annette 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.14.8. Lost Boys 72 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 52.685117, -117.916110

summary

Quartzite crag with both sports and trad routes

description

The crag is 500 meters long and averages 20m in height. It is located about 20 minutes south of Jasper along Highway 93A. The crag faces west looking into the Whirlpool River drainage, with Mt Edith Cavell being visible on a clear day. On hot days, arrive early as the crag gets very hot after 1pm. The climbing season is around May-September.

access issues

Be aware of bears in the area. The crag is located in Jasper National Park. Thus, pack everything out that was brought in. Additionally, you need to have a National Park Pass to stop anywhere in Jasper National Park. These can be purchased at the park gates when you arrive.

approach

Drive south from Jasper on Highway 93 for approximately 7km. Turn west onto Highway 93A and follow this for around 25km. You will pass the turn-off for Edith Cavell. Approximately 200m from Leech Lake there is a small dirt parking lot.

The trail entrance is at the back left corner of the parking lot. Follow the trail for approximately 20-25 minutes (relatively flat walk). The trail eventually descends to the bottom of the wall. Continue following along the bottom of the cliff for another 5 minutes until you reach the first routes.

where to stay

Jasper has a number of campgrounds in the surrounding National Park. Additionally, many homestays and hotels are available. Visit http://www.jasper.travel/where-to-stay/hotels+cabins or http://www.pc.gc.ca/eng/pn-np/ab/jasper/visit/loger-stay.aspx for more information. Note that there is no free camping in the National Park. The campsites are reasonably priced and have good facilities.

Jasper itself provides the best location for picking up food supplies. It has two grocery stores and some specialty stores for food allergies.

ethic

Setting up top-ropes can be dangerous as many anchors are set back from the top of the cliff. Large rap bolts exist at the top of most climbs, with only a few trad routes requiring raps off trees.

Please respect that this is a local crag: any bolting should be run past the locals. Additionally, it is illegal to cut or remove vegetation - this must be avoided at all costs.

history

It was discovered by locals looking for another crag in 1994.

1.14.9. Dune Wall 5 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 52.687063, -118.061392

summary

Dune Wall is an impressive quartzite band at the base of Mount Sorrow next to the majestic Edith Cavell. Routes can be up to 4 to 5 pitches and are generally adventurous in nature.

description

Climbing on high quality quartzite similar in nature to the back of Lake Louise, there is still plenty of opportunities for new route development. Despite the good rock this is still an alpine region and so rockfall does occur so always wear and helmet and be mindful of the overhead hazard. Typical season is from late June to the end of September.

approach

Drive to the parking lot at the base of Edith Cavell. There are two options to approach. If approaching the classic Stilgar's Corner/Hilti Hotel area (obvious orange left facing corner) head from the carpark bearing right towards the talus slope directly beneath the corner. There you will find a cairned path leading up the steep slope and through the trees reaching the wall just left of the corner. For other climbs you can start up the Angel's Glacier trial, leaving it at the first talus slope. The path up here is less obvious and a little slippery through the grass until you reach the base of the wall.

1.14.10. Mt. Edith Cavell 2 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 52.660298, -118.048576

1.14.11. Morro Slabs 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.040766, -118.087663

summary

Easier slabs right on the Athabasca River

description

Easier slab climbs right on the water. Great for beginners, although some routes you must commit to as they require rappel descent to the river.

approach

Park at the small parking area just east of the second bridge over the Athabasca. If driving from Jasper, you will see the slab on the right as you drive over the river.

From the parking area find the steep path to the top of the slabs and walk along the top of the rock. (5 mins)

1.14.12. Morro Bluffs 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.036889, -118.082118

summary

Easier sport slab climbing with a amazing mountain backdrop.

description

Great little slab climbing area above the Athabasca River. Mostly easy single pitch routes routes, although there is some multi pitch climbing (2 pitches).

access issues

No access issues. It is in Jasper National Park, so you will have to pay a park entry fee.

approach

Park at he Morro Peak parking lot 20km east of town. (Just East of the two bridges over the Athabasca River). If driving from Jasper you will see the Morro Slabs on the right side of the road. The Overlander trail starts here. Follow the Overlander trail for about 5 to 10 min. There will be a smooth rock with a plaque in memory of Geo L. Jones. Only 50m past this rock is a trail that climbs steeply left. Follow this trail for 5 minutes until another worn trail branches right and traverses the base of the cliff. 15 minutes from the road.

where to stay

Plenty of camping options in Jasper NP. Also lots of accommodation in Jasper, including backpackers, hotels etc.

history

Area developed by local guide Matt Reynolds in the spring and early summer of 1999.

1.14.13. Maligne Canyon 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Ice climbing

1.14.14. Boulder Gardens 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 52.926891, -118.015640

description

The Boulder Gardens are a series of short limestone boulders perched on a bench overlooking the Athabasca River. The Crispy Crunch Boulder faces south and gets great sun in the morning to late afternoon; the Centre Stone faces north and can be cold. As the temperatures warm up in the spring, this is one of the first places that you can climb in the Jasper area, but there are really only a few of the climbs that get the sun (the ones on the Crispy Crunch Boulder), so there’s not lots to do. The Juno Wall is a better bet for early season climbing, but it’s further from Jasper with a longer approach.

All of the climbs at the Boulder Gardens are very short (7-10 metres) and tend to be steep and strenuous. Many a solid 5.10 leader has been spit off of “American Justice”. You can set up top-ropes on many of these climbs, but be careful, because the anchors are set right at the cliff edge. The majority of the routes have rap or chain anchors, and all have alternate scramble descents.

approach

From Jasper, Alberta, travel east (i.e. toward Edmonton) on Highway 16 about one kilometre east of the east Jasper entrance, and turn right (south) onto the Maligne lake Road (also the turn off to the Jasper Park Lodge). The road immediately crosses the Athabasca River. The road then turns sharply to the left (don’t turn right into the Jasper Park Lodge, until the end of the day when you can have a cold beer at the Lodge). Follow the Maligne road approximately 5 kilometres to a turn off to the “5th Bridge”. Follow this road in about 500 metres to the parking lot.

From the parking lot, cross the suspension bridge and follow the trail for about 100 metres. On the left there will be a trail branching off the main trail. Turn left and follow this trail for another 100 metres and then take the first right. This trail then steeply climbs up a hill – the trail temporarily becomes quite wide at this point but narrows down again at the top of the steepest section. At the top of this steep section you will encounter some trails coming in from the right – ignore these and continue east. The trail continues to slowly climb through open Douglas-fir forests for another 5 minutes, and then begins to level off. About 100 metres after the trail has levelled off you will come to another fork in the trail – if you turn right here you will be going to the Rock Gardens. Instead, continue on the main trail for another 50 or so metres dropping down over a short hill and looking for the fainter trail turning left. Follow this trail downhill for a few minutes until it starts to turn to the right. Shortly you will come to the obvious “Crispy Crunch Boulder”.

where to stay

Plenty of Camping, Hostel and Hotel options in the Jasper town and surrounding area.

1.14.15. Rock Gardens 45 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 52.926656, -118.012667

summary

Probably the best crag close to Jasper

description

This is one of the premier crags in the Jasper Area, with quality routes on steep solid limestone. The climbs are all less than 25 metres in length and are equipped with chains or rap anchors. The crag primarily faces north and is shaded by forest –it can be a cold place to climb on cool days. It gets late afternoon and evening sun. The season is generally from May to September. Setting up top ropes is not recommended as all of the anchors are located back from the top of the cliff and have been set up for leading.

access issues

From Jasper, Alberta, travel east (i.e. toward Edmonton) on Highway 16 about one kilometre east of the east Jasper entrance, and turn right (south) onto the Maligne lake Road (also the turn off to the Jasper Park Lodge). The road immediately crosses the Athabasca River. The road then turns sharply to the left (don’t turn right into the Jasper Park Lodge, until the end of the day when you can have a cold beer at the Lodge). Follow the Maligne road approximately 5 kilometres to a turn off to the “5th Bridge”. Follow this road in about 500 metres to the parking lot.

approach

From the parking lot, cross the suspension bridge and follow the trail for about 100 metres. On the left there will be a trail branching off the main trail. Turn left and follow this trail for another 100 metres and then take the first right. This trail then steeply climbs up a hill – the trail temporarily becomes quite wide at this point but narrows down again at the top of the steepest section. At the top of this steep section you will encounter some trails coming in from the right – ignore these and continue east. The trail continues to slowly climb through open Douglas-fir forests for another 5 minutes, and then begins to level off. About 100 metres after the trail has levelled off you will come to another fork in the trail – turn right here. About 50 metres from this fork you will encounter the crag and the first climb – “Pink Dreams”. If at anytime, you start hiking downhill, you’ve missed this last turn-off to the crag – turn around and backtrack. The entire hike takes about 15 minutes.

where to stay

Plenty of Camping, Hostel and Hotel options in and around Jasper.

1.14.16. Watchtower 38 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 52.860776, -117.792542

1.14.17. Syncline 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 53.169589, -117.961376

summary

A distinctive series of cliffs on Highway 16 with a range of adventurous climbs and more recently added friendly sport climbs.

description

~100 m long multipitches

approach

Park on the pull out on Highway 16 after approximately 36km from Jasper. Head straight across to the obvious park and then using mainly a series of animal tracks traverse and climb your way up to the upper walls. About an hour. 350m elevation gain.

1.14.18. Hidden Valley 37 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 53.175087, -117.959862

summary

Jasper's oldest and most diverse climbing area. Located close to the magnificent Roche Miette tower This magnificent spot has many moderate multi-pitch routes as well as some harder sport climbs. The rock is slabby limestone

approach

From Hinton. Drive West on Hwy. 16 for 40km into Jasper National Park. Continue past the Pocahontas Bungalows. In a few minutes the imposing face of Roche Miette is on your left and the speed limit drops to 70km per hour. You will see a pullout on your left with an outhouse.The parking area has a pond at each end.

From Jasper. Drive North-East Hwy. 16 towards Hinton for 36 km. You will enter a 70 km/h wildlife zone and a large pullout on your right with an outhouse. The parking area has a pond at each end.

The trail starts on the far end of the pullout away from the outhouse. Skirt around a pond and head up a steep hill and follow the obvious trail up and left towards the cliffs. Depending on fitness you can get to the first set of bolted routes in a half hour of hiking

1.14.19. Ashlar Ridge 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.182542, -117.824214

1.14.20. Rec Beach 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.179333, -117.967897

1.14.21. Shredder Reef 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 53.180974, -117.951587

1.14.22. Jasper Fitness & Aquatic Centre 0 routes in Gym

description

305 Bonhomme Street

Jasper

Alberta T0E 1E0 Canada

http://www.jasper-alberta.com/2249/Fitness-Aquatic-Centre

call: (780) 852-3663

1.14.23. Dr. Duncan Murray Recreation Centre 0 routes in Gym

description

805 Switzer Drive

Hinton

Alberta T7V 1V1 Canada

http://www.hinton.ca/642/Bouldering

call: 780-865-4412

1.14.24. Highway 16 West 5 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 52.862441, -118.172072

description

Closest Crag to town with some surprisingly fun little crack climbing routes to keep you entertained for a morning climb. The approach is between 1-5min walk. The second two areas can easily be seen from the road.

1.14.25. Rainy Day Slabs 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 52.882953, -117.816299

summary

200m+ Slab climbing on fine limestone

description

A beautiful slab at the east end of Medicine lake

access issues

Bring bear spray

approach

Park 22km from Jasper in the watchtower hiking trail. Walk along the road for 700m and follow the trail on the left through two boulders that follows along the base of a boulder field.

As the trail starts to climb stay right or you will end up in Sidar Canyon. As the trail flattens out at the start of the rock slide, cross over to the right-hand side and follow the cairns and marking tape to the base of the slab. A tree with tape marks the start of Free Diver

If you climb too high, you end up at big rock crag. It is possible to follow the trail to the base of the slab and then work your way to the right but this adds a lot of unessecary vert.

Total 1.5km approach and 180m elevation gain.

1.14.26. Medicine Slab 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Alpine climbing

Lat / Long: 52.866112, -117.751657

summary

Medicine slab is the prominent sawtooth ridge above Medicine Lake offering the longest multi-pitch in Jasper

description

Medicine slab offers several routes up to 650 meters in length. The climbing is a mixed bag of alpine adventure including various rock quality, route finding, and difficult descent. 10/10 for the views and position.

access issues

Bear Spray

approach

24.5km down Malign lake road. Park at the small pullout on the lakeside of the road. Cardot crack has you finish Jacques lake trail head a few km down the road. A bike or 2nd vehicle can be used to shuttle at the end of the day

1.15. David Thompson Corridor 136 routes in Region

2 7 6 3 13 1 9 8 11 12 10

1 Elliot Peak 2 The Dark Side 3 Hoodoo Creek 6 Shakakan Wall 7 Abraham Slabs 8 Little Russia 9 Solar Panel 10 Kootenay Plains 11 Peskett Canyon Ice 12 Frejya / Via Ferrata 13 Mt. Stelfox

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 52.269915, -116.276282

summary

Tucked between Banff and Jasper. This beautiful area offers some great climbing away from the tourist crowds.

description

Tucked between Banff and Jasper. This beautiful area offers some great climbing away from the tourist crowds.

access issues

Mostly crown land. The majority of routes in the area have been developed by C.O.E. (Centre for Outdoor Education) guides and instructors.

More info on COE here http://www.coe.ca/

You can pick up their local guidebook for $20, all proceeds go towards future route development.

You can also support the David Thompson Corridor Bolt Fund directly at the link below. https://www.gofundme.com/f/david-thompson-bolt-fund?fbclid=IwAR1N-uUwTTVtwd8GDheyCTfPZsZQFTLAlUEFkMFEnypOI6c8c6ZnsZSMyzg

approach

Along the David Thompson Highway (Highway 11) between the Icefields Parkway and Rocky Mountain House

where to stay

As large amounts of the area are crown land, there are plenty of free camp spots available. Some right on the lake. There are also several provincial campsites in the area, that can be found here https://www.albertaparks.ca/albertaparksca/visit-our-parks/find-a-park/

ethic

This area is mostly used by COE guides and instructors. They do leave some gear and the crags, please respect it and leave it there.

1.15.1. Elliot Peak 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 52.133642, -116.467564

1.15.2. The Dark Side 42 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 52.501336, -116.025830

summary

Long limestone cliff band with great challenging climbing

description

Shady limestone cliff gets some morning sun. Amazing belay station including natural benches.

access issues

This area is crown land.

approach

About 5km East of Nordegg. Take the forest road for 1.6km, there will be a small grassy pull off on the right. Follow the hiking trail on the West side of the road towards the cliff.

ethic

You can support the David Thompson Corridor Bolt Fund directly at the link below. https://www.gofundme.com/f/david-thompson-bolt-fund?fbclid=IwAR1N-uUwTTVtwd8GDheyCTfPZsZQFTLAlUEFkMFEnypOI6c8c6ZnsZSMyzg

history

This crag has been mostly developed by the COE. Please support them or pick up a copy of their guidebook for the area.

More info here: http://www.coe.ca/

1.15.3. Hoodoo Creek 0 routes in Boulder

description

Bouldering off the North side of the highway ~39 km west of the Nordegg Town Turnoff. A popular day hike.

approach

400m up the creek are the Creekside Boulders. Some chossier ones in the forest to the right. More for the curious upstream.

1.15.4. Cline River Canyon 2 routes in Unknown

Summary:

All Ice climbing

1.15.5. Water Knot Wall 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.15.6. Shakakan Wall 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 52.256752, -116.393833

description

A great selection of slab climbs with a lot of friction.

approach

Cross the highway on the right side of Windy Point Ridge, you quickly pick up a trail going into the trees beside the small pond that rises with the reservoir. No elevation gained.

history

Formally a top roping area containing a single route with a mix of bolts and pitons, this crag has seen a major redevelopment. It is now an excellent destination for moderate sport climbing. The wall is named in memory of our friend Brent Young, then climbs inspired by his quotes. Shakakan brother, Shakakan...

1.15.7. Abraham Slabs 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 52.259498, -116.455632

summary

Long slabs with a view of the lake

description

Long limestone slabs which can be seen from the highway. SW facing.

1.15.8. Little Russia 41 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 52.117095, -116.447078

description

A newest sport climbing area developed in the summer of 2018 by group of Edmonton climbers. Steep, burly routes on solid limestone ranging from 5.9 to 5.13. Located in the Peskett canyon with only 15 min approach this area is perfect for someone who looks to work on a hard climb in a beautiful canyon setting. Climbs have been developed on both sides with the left (North) side been steeper, harder and mainly in the shade and right (South) side, easier, less steep and sunnier. Beginning of the canyon (before the first waterfall) harbours single pitch sport climbs. Deeper in the canyon (~100m) after the first waterfall a couple dozens of drytool climbs had been established. A multi pitch climb and a highline are in the works and coming soon as of March 2019.

If you see a bolted line that is not in the topo it is probably a project that has not been cleaned/climbed yet. More and more climbs will be coming up. Dont hesitate to bring your brush and help the developers to clean the holds. Since this area is new, some loose rock still may exist, wear your helmet.

Due to a short approach and rain protected area under "Start of the line"overhang area is very family friendly.

Most of the sport climbs in this area are named after people who helped with the project. May their names live forever!

60m rope is enough for all the routes except "Start of the Line" extension that needs 70m.

Come and check it out!

approach

From Edmonton drive 55k past the Nordegg. From Banff drive 35k from 93 junction.

Park at the pullout on the west side of the David Thompson Highway, just south of Peskett Creek (52.116980, -116.434823). Cross to the north side of the creek then follow the climbers trail on the ridge line along the north side of the creek. Follow the trail for 10 min and drop down the creek (here52.11824, -116.44297). Cross the creek and walk for another 200m till you hit "Start of the line" overhang.

ethic

You can also support the David Thompson Corridor Bolt Fund directly at the link below. https://www.gofundme.com/f/david-thompson-bolt-fund?fbclid=IwAR1N-uUwTTVtwd8GDheyCTfPZsZQFTLAlUEFkMFEnypOI6c8c6ZnsZSMyzg

1.15.9. Solar Panel 6 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 52.118940, -116.447428

summary

Sunny Multi Pitch Area

Caution: This is a newly developed area, there is a high risk of rock fall from parties above

description

Caution: This is a newly developed area, there is a high risk of rock fall from parties above

access issues

Caution: This is a newly developed area, there is a high risk of rock fall from parties above

approach

Park at the pullout on the west side of the David Thompson Highway, just south of Peskett Creek (52.116980, -116.434823). Cross to the north side of the creek then follow the climbers trail on the ridge line along the north side of the creek. (Same trail as for 'Little Russia'[2498397180]). Instead of dropping off the ridge towards the creek as for 'Little Russia'[2498397180] stay on the ridge until you see green/yellow flagging tape which will lead you to the base of the climbs. (If you hit a fork in the trail, stay right)

Caution: This is a newly developed area, there is a high risk of rock fall from parties above

Due to the rock fall potential, it is best to leave your bags and gear up at the dugout on the trail just before the base of the cliff.

ethic

You can also support the David Thompson Corridor Bolt Fund directly at the link below. https://www.gofundme.com/f/david-thompson-bolt-fund?fbclid=IwAR1N-uUwTTVtwd8GDheyCTfPZsZQFTLAlUEFkMFEnypOI6c8c6ZnsZSMyzg

1.15.10. Kootenay Plains 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 52.057655, -116.420956

summary

The crag is located behind the Kootenay Plains Cavalcade Group camping area.

approach

Park in the pullout across the highway and walk through the campground towards the cliff.

1.15.11. Peskett Canyon Ice 4 routes in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 52.115531, -116.452113

summary

The ice climbs at the back of Peskett Canyon

approach

Park as for Little Russia, and hike and climb back along the canyon for approximately 1.5km past several short ice flows, staying to the left. Eventually, the climbs are reached.

1.15.12. Frejya / Via Ferrata 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 52.098576, -116.435508

approach

Parking at (52.10305, -116.43075). Follow the trail up and left on the west side of the road.

1.15.13. Mt. Stelfox 8 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 52.189397, -116.542438

description

Climbs around Mt Stelfox and the Cline River. More info here.

approach

Park at the Cline River / Coral Creek staging area (52.17451, -116.48288).

1.16. Grand Cache 3 routes in Unknown

Summary:

All Ice climbing

description

Ice climbing

1.17. Big Rock 65 routes in Crag

2 1

1 West Rock 2 East Rock

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 50.705424, -114.068613

summary

Great quartzite bouldering.

description

Part of the Foothills Erratics Train, made of Quartzite deposited from glacial movement all the way from Jasper. See "Bouldering in the Canadian Rockies" guidebook for route descriptions.

access issues

This site is an ancient way marker for the Blackfoot people. Please respect this and do not be entitled. Do not be confrontational with anyone about access.

approach

100m N. from the parking lot.

ethic

Bolting is absolutely forbidden, limit your chalk use. Do not climb on faces with Pictographs. Clean the holds and any marks made, and any garbage lying around. Be a steward.

history

This site is an ancient way marker for the Blackfoot people. Please respect this and do not be entitled. Do not be confrontational with anyone about access.

1.17.1. West Rock 22 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 50.705965, -114.076402

1.17.2. East Rock 43 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 50.706021, -114.076131

1.18. Calgary 95 routes in Region

14 16 6 15 9 11 10 8 5 17 13 4 3 2 7 12 1

1 South Health Campus YMCA 2 Bolder Climbing Community 3 Mount Royal College 4 Lyce Louis Pasteur Climbing Wall 5 Crux Climbing and Bouldering 6 Calgary Climbing Centre Hanger 7 Calgary Climbing Centre Chinook 8 Calgary Climbing Center - Stronghold 9 Calgary Climbing Centre Rocky Mountain 10 Odyssey Recreational Adventures Ltd. 11 Outdoor Program Centre Climbing Gym 12 YMCA Calgary Shawnessy Branch Indoor Climbing Gym 13 Westside Recreation Centre Climbing Gym 14 Buffalo Rubbing Stone 15 Bearspaw Cliffs 16 Split Rock 17 Millennium Park

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.040533, -114.044835

summary

Alberta's largest city.

1.18.1. South Health Campus YMCA 0 routes in Gym

description

4448 Front St SE

Calgary

Alberta Canada

https://www.ymcacalgary.org/program-descriptions/locations/south-health-campus-ymca/

call: 403-956-3900

1.18.2. Bolder Climbing Community 15 routes in Gym

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 51.005340, -114.061810

description

5508 1st Street SE

Calgary

Alberta Canada

http://www.bolderclimbing.com/

call: 403 988-8140

1.18.3. Mount Royal College 0 routes in Gym

description

4825 Mount Royal Gate SW

Calgary

Alberta Canada

http://www.mtroyal.ca/campusservices/athleticsrecreation/recreation/ProgramInformation/Climbing/index.htm

call: (403) 440-6348

1.18.4. Lyce Louis Pasteur Climbing Wall 0 routes in Gym

description

4099 Garrison Boulevard SW

Alberta

Alberta Canada

https://lycee.ca/about-our-climbing-wall

call: 403.243.5420 x115

1.18.5. Crux Climbing and Bouldering 0 routes in Gym

description

1415 28 St NE

Calgary

Alberta T2A 2P6 Canada

http://www.thecruxclimbing.com/web/

call: 403-235-CRUX 2789

1.18.6. Calgary Climbing Centre Hanger 0 routes in Gym

description

106- 588 Aero Dr. NE.

Calgary

Alberta T2E 7Y4 Canada

http://calgaryclimbing.com/

call: 587-230-0189

1.18.7. Calgary Climbing Centre Chinook 10 routes in Gym

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 50.990700, -114.067680

description

7130 Fisher Rd SE Calgary

Calgary

Alberta T2H 0W3 Canada

http://www.calgaryclimbing.com/

call: (403) 252-6778

1.18.8. Calgary Climbing Center - Stronghold 0 routes in Gym

description

140 - 15th Ave NW

Calgary

Alberta T2M 0G6 Canada

http://www.calgaryclimbing.com/

call: (403) 276-6484

1.18.9. Calgary Climbing Centre Rocky Mountain 0 routes in Gym

summary

New gym in Calgary open in February 2018 - 65 feet high walls

description

New gym in Calgary open in February 2018 Lead climbing walls up to 65 feet (20m) high, indoor and outdoor lead walls, bouldering walls, kids area

approach

10721 West Valley Rd SW, Calgary, AB T3B 5T2