Routes in Alberta for selected grade

Up and right from anchor of Recipe for Poutine

A classic lip traverse left to right.

Obscure alt start to Trout Fishing

One of the best at Big Choss! Sit-start on the obvious jug-ledge in the pit to the right of the base of the arete. Make a couple of moves straight up on jugs, then head left and get your pinches, heels, and compression working. Cruxy topout. This problem lends itself well to a progression of alternate starts and eliminates up to around V8.

Start to the left of the yellow streak. Easyish climbing to an excellent rest is followed by increasingly difficult moves and clips up the blank wall. Surf around and finish with a tricky mantle.

Sketchy now with the ground level eroded away by the flood. Needs a new first bolt

Start off the left end of the ledge and traverse left backcleaning quickdraws to reduce rope drag. This long, beautiful climb features a rare body length tufa and a high and pumpy crux.

Seriously, Yankees go home....jks. But seriously don't bring your ego to Acephale tourists The most popular 12D in Alberta. Polished, steep, pumpy and short. From the ledge, climb over a chossy section into a (12b) crimpy move, gaining a corner. The "crux" is at the top of the corner and involves a big slap to a sloper from a pocket. Part of the difficulty in this route is clipping the chains, so if you want the 12D tick, don't but any long draws or slings on the anchor!! FAists words.

Climb a small right facing corner before pulling a short overlap to reach two bolts worth of compact grey rock. Trend left on pockets to finish on the anchor of Jingus Americanus.

Start this crimpy line left of a big tree growing two metres from the cliff. A tough bouldery start is followed by an interesting sequence on blankness. Mellow climbing follows before a final bulge redpoint crux.

Many intricate cruxes stand between you and the anchors including one at ground level. Start in a mailbox slot just left of the first bolt.

This excellent route starts just left of a leaning tree (by climbing in from Rockemoveya then traversing right on a few pockets). A powerful mid pitch boulder problem is followed by a slab Crux at the top.

From the Boner anchor traverse right to some desperate undercling moves.

PLans are to move bolts an make this a doable route without a stick clip. A bouldery start with long reaches to fun climbing. Definitely height dependable!

Classy boulder problems separated by an acceptable rest.

The direct start to the original 5.13b route "Bob Loblaw". This direct start begins about 2-3 feet to the right of the original line (left of Super mega destroyer, 5.13c) and takes a much nicer and mellower start than the original.

Was 13a by the first ascent team, but was downgraded for poor reasons...cough*

Start on Bug’s life but Veer left at the rest. Multiple powerful and pumpy 5.12 moves all the way to the anchor.

This pump fest starts left of AYCE. Climb a 25m 12a into a decent rest then get ready to attack a hard pumpy boulder all the way to the chains. A 70m rope barely gets back to the ground

A steep start with powerful pulls gains a hard bulge and a rest. Recover and crank the technical crux that guards the chains.

Hard boulder problem at the start followed up by some techy climbing, after all this into the obvious 'shark fin', either layback it or try and get up inside it (probably not recommended).

Closed Project left of Humble heart. Absolutely beautiful looking face climbing up the stunning streak

The extension to Pick Pocket. Technical

The extension to monkey business. Looks worth doing!!

Start up the chossy column before powering through pockets to a right facing corner. Significantly easier climbing leads to the anchor.

Start off the ledge to the right of a chimney. A very hard Crux with a few monos leads to sustained 12a climbing.

The most sought after route on the wall and 12d in Alberta. This pumpfest has no stopper moves but is continually hard and tests endurance. Climb a right facing corner to the mid break (11a/b). Launch up the overhanging wall with no hesitation.

Climb Slackline King to the fifth bolt then traverse left on a shit slab. Finish straight up via a powerful boulder problem.

Sit start with left hand on undercling and right hand on a crimp.

Start as for House Of Usher, but trend right after the first bolt, to a no hands rest at the second bolt. Power through a crux at the first bulge, to a quick shake, then another 5.12 crux through the second bulge using hard to locate holds. More technical, powerful climbing gains a last quick shake before a finish with a tricky bouldery move at the anchor. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dklKQz3eGNg

Technical climbing weaves up the beauty, grey streak, left of House Of Usher. Put your thinking cap on for this one! The intricate, friction-dependent boulder-problem crux makes this route really worth doing! Steady to the anchors now.

First crux requires a blend of tech and power to overcome. The second requires nothing but burly strength.

Starts at the bottom of the overhanging corner about 15m uphill from the Oedipus. Slopers, crimpy, funky and fun.

This route is at the turning point of the cave, just where it turns right/east. It is the noticeable crack line that is almost fully horizontal. Probably the most distinctive 12/d-13a in the Rockies, simply because it’s like no other route. Full on roof crack climbing to a lip encounter, to a cruxy headwall – beauty!

Climb the first 2 bolts of Guerilla Warfare, then head left and get ready, because it comes quick and stays on you to the anchor! Superb route – crimpy and then you get the burl finish of Doppio.

The extension above “La Nouille Technique” has a very powerful boulder problem straight off the anchor. Sustained technical climbing with long pulls escalate up the bullet, black head wall to an anchor high on the wall. Qui Vivra Verra means “He/she who lives, shall see.” This phrase is used when an outcome is unpredictable or uncertain.

Left of Free Hook up. Start this excellent climb with a very reachy boulder out of the roof (where the route gets its name from) and fire hard up the V notch. From here long moves on all kinds of grips has a cool roof encounter then a decent rest. Change gears and get your tech on very high quality rock up the dark corner to anchors up high. Will be a classic over time!

A tough low percentage throw right off the ground leads to easier but still tricky climbing into a v shaped notch. Navigate around some bird crap to reach the base of the roof. Take a couple of deep breaths before powering through a hard to read roof sequence.

Start on the Big Side pull pinch far right with one foot around the right of the arete and one on the front face. A technical powerful problem utilizing the V-shaped hold as the crux and a big move up the v2. Finishes up the v2.

Start on the bluff up the hill from the iconic mushroom boulder, 1 Up! It is on the same bluff as Thermarest Arete, to the left and low. Start matched on a hidden undercling.

One end to the other on very delicate holds.