Routes in Alberta for selected grade

Extension above M.E.C. Crank the powerful Roof! The crimps over the roof broke since the FA a few times, thus warranting 5.13.

Sketchy now with the ground level eroded away by the flood. Needs a new first bolt

Sustained crimping off the ground leads to a midway shake, a dynamic move and a well deserved rest. If pumped the top will prove to be more problematic than anticipated.

You better have fingers of steel and ligaments of concrete. A hard series of pulls off the ground leads to easier crimps- a nice rest and very reachy crux. easier above.

A vicious v7/v8 boulder problem off the ground into a great 12a. Not Classic.

Power endurance, puzzling climbing up the solid, bullet limestone face.

Greg Tos

This route follows the white and yellow streak. A fiendishly cryptic sequence down low leads to excellent featured climbing and a heartbreak crux at the top.

One of the best 13a's in the Rockies.

2m right of Sundog.

This light blue streak is the most striking feature at the Eyes of Baatan sector and is a must do for the grade.

Start on ride, but power up straight up to a hard Boulder problem.

Starts on a ledge to the right of Leaning In The Wind, ascending the stunning yellow and black streak. Power-Tech 5.12 climbing gains a good rest, where the first crux smacks you like gale-force wind, leaving a ledge. Put your thinking cap on for this intricate line! And leave some gas in the tank for the final crux below the anchors. Named as a farewell to the route builders 7 year love affair- living in the Bow Valley.

Climb the Hot Gates to the rest and continue straight up. The pump builds continually untill the anchor is clipped.

Climb Slackline King to the fifth bolt thengtatverse left on a shit slab. Contour up leftward to a set of black chains before tackling an exposed and technical face. A tough crux guards the final moves to the anchor.

From the anchor of Slackline King climb directly into a tough crux and finish with a balancey slab.

Second route from the right. Power up the small pockets to a slab encounter, then manage the easier terrain above.

A harder version of it's neighbor. Likely soft at 13a however it hasn't yet officially been downgraded yet.

A burly boulder problem through the first 2 bolts leads to a few more hard moves through a blank bulge and finally a rest. Easier but still strenuous climbing to the top.

The infamous Masque. Continue past the anchor of P1 by launching directly into a nails crux that utilizes tiny crimpers. Followed by sustained climbing that leads to a powerful and technical boulder problem way off the deck, that guards the anchor.

From the anchors of P1, tackle the powerful head wall to the burly roof. Once over the roof a never ending sea of technicalities awaits, for some time. Hang on and enjoy the view! Absolutely classic and one of the best in the country.

Right of Fight Club P1, starting atop of “Fun Club Ledge”, climbs this power endurance- test piece. Begin with a hard dyno, into a rest, then firing a technical traverse into a sequential pillar. Make sure you didn't get pumped because the true crux lies above with optional big frequent flyers and a stroll to the scenic views at the anchor.

This is the extension to House of Usher. Climb up right to a shake right of the third bolt. Then cut left and head up the black rock through big moves with a building pump.

Pitch 2 is a 13C above.

Put a long extendo on the last bolt of House of Usher and don’t clip anything to the anchor.

Climb some nice low angle stone, crimpers, slopers, tufas and then out the two-tier roof system. Excellent route, probably one of the best 13’s in the valley.

Project

Left of V-man.

Start on the bluff up the hill from the iconic mushroom boulder, 1 Up! It is on the same bluff as Thermarest Arete, to the left and low. Start matched on a hidden undercling.

Test piece! A hard crimpy crux down low with very technical feet, gets you to some big locks and a fantastic, dramatic ending!

Extension to Where Heathen Rage.

2nd pitch of To Infinity

Amazing crimpy-pumpy extension on perfect blue limestone all the way to the top. 70m rope.

An obvious line that is going right in the middle of the overhanging face. Same start as "Start of the line" but go straight up and pull as hard as you can! Combination of overhanging slopers, knee bars and more.

after the knee bar rest (other rests possible), go right through some hard moves to reach the vertical section, climb for another 2 clips to reach the Pull Hard anchor.

Named after Calfornian group of friends who called themselves "Pull harder".

Start on the "Genesis" jugs and traverse along the sloping lip all the way to the top to the right.

Up "Stay Hip" but the left arete is in.

Start as for "The Wall" and go straight up without using the right hand arete.

Start matched on the left facing sidepull edge in the broken rock. Bust out right to the good pocket and go straight up the corner.

Sit start to "Jumbo". Right on the good edge, left undercling.

Start on "Jumbo Low" and link into Who Nose.