Mogote del Valle, Sport climbing

Map

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1 Jaguayana 2 Cueva Larga 3 La Yunta 4 Guajiro Ecológico 5 Pared de los Tormentos 6 Milenio Wall 7 Ensenada de Raúl 8 Arista Filo de Cuchilla 9 Torre Menoco 10 Cueva Cabeza de la Vaca 11 Paredón de Josué 12 Jaruquiño 13 Sector Geisha

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Summary

Limestone

The most popular and closest crag in Viñales with plenty of sectors.

Description

Mogote del Valle is probably the first set of cliffs you will see when arriving in Viñales. It is located just a few minutes north west of the town. Its structure, rock and vegetation will remind you of the rocks near 'Krabi' in Thailand if you have ever been there. Mogote del Valle hosts the biggest amount of climbs in the Valle de Viñales in multiple cliffs and sectors. They range from single pitch climbs up to 3 pitch climbs and offer everything from technical and crimpy face climbing to steep tufa pulling in caves. Most of the cliffs are oriented south east and thus see sun till early afternoon, but of course there are exceptions. See the cliff and sector information for details.

Approach

All of the cliffs and sectors in Mogote del Valle can easily be reached on foot. Approaches are typically flat and short but be prepared to walk under the sun. There are 2 main approaches from Viñales.

If you rather aim for the cliffs on the right side (more northern side) hike down Calle Adela Azcuy Norte (passed the football field) in direction of Raúl’s Farm (you might see signs for Cabeza de la Vaca or Cueva de la Vaca). Aim for the obvious sectors once you pass Raúl’s Farm.
If you rather aim for the cliffs on the left side (more souther side) follow the main road in town in direction south until you almost exit the town and take a right (on to Sergio Dopico) where the main road makes a left turn. Follow this paved road for a moment. It will turn into a dirt road soon and then - at a farm house - into a single track trail. Pass left of the farm house (there might be a sign for Cueva Larga) and follow the trail to the respective sectors.

You might link from this farm house to Raúl’s Farm by following the dirt road to the right.

See the cliff and sector information for details on the approach.

Be aware that you walk and pass on farm land. Please be respectful and don’t trample on crops.

Ethic inherited from Cuba

Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community.