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Paredón de Josué All Sport climbing 17 routes in cliff

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 44
  • Aka: Vega de Crespo
17
FR
6a6b6c7a7b7c8a

Seasonality

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A
M
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Description

This is the most developed sector on the Vega de Pelón side of Mogote del Valle. It is well shaded from late morning on and offers excellent climbing on pockets, tufas and some sharp rock.

Approach

Follow the approach for Cueva Cabeza de la Vaca and pass the tunnel (it is short and can be done without light). Hike down the obvious trail on the other side. Once you reach the field, look for a trail that leads up left to the obvious cliff.

Ethic inherited from Cuba

Climbing gear is extremely hard to impossible to get in Cuba. Please bring gear you can spare, bolts, ropes, anything of good quality and leave it with the Cuban climbing community.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
6a ★★★ Calentando Baterias Sport 25m, 7

Starts just right of the big tree that follows the cliff. Excellent climbing on big holds to an anchor on the right flake.

2
6c ★★ Chan Chan de Ilusiones Sport 25m

Shares frist 2 bolts with Tarentola but then climbs staright up on the face.

3
6a+ ★★ Tarentola Sport 28m, 8

Follow the crack to the right and then climb straight up. Shares first 2 bolts with Chan Chan de Ilusiones.

4
7b+ ★★★ Romeo y Regleta Sport 28m
5
6b+ Guajiro Natural Sport 25m
6
6c ★★ Por la Raja de Tu Falda Sport 25m, 7
7
6b Economizando Baterias Sport 25m
8
6b+ Reversible Sport 20m

Goes up just left of the big tufa.

9
6b ★★★ Mujer, Peligro y Placer Sport 25m, 9

Start on the boulder and climb up just right of the big tufa. Pass left of the roof and follow rhe crack to the face and anchor.

10
8a Mancha en Mi Expediente Sport 30m

Start right of the tufa and climb through the obvious low roof.

FA: Josué Millo & Yuniesky Gonzales, 2002

11
7b Pies de Homo Hábilis Sport 30m, 12
12
7a Dame Luz San Valentín Sport 30m, 11
13
6c ★★★ Melodía Celestial Sport 30m

Start on the boulder and climb the face to reach the big flake. Layback up on poor feet to reach the tufa and follow the slab to a final overhanging section. The last 2 bolts climb very sharp rock.

14
7a+ Terapia de Miedo Sport 30m, 12

This route climbs right of the big flake on the flat arete.

15
7a Cuando los Ángeles lloran Sport 30m, 12
16
6b Rebentadera Sport 30m, 11
17
6b Sorpresa Sport 60m, 2
1 6b 30m
2 6a+ 30m

This is an isolated route about 50m further right and up on the same cliff. Search the wide crack.

FA: Josué Millo & Raikel Reyes, 2002

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6a ★★★ Calentando Baterias

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Mon 29 May
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