A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
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Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Jonty Lewis Lee Cujes Campbell Gome Erwan Legrand Jonas O Jason Smith Kai Adam Straw Dave McGregor Paul Frothy Thomson
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1.
Céüse
632 in Crag
- 1.1. Golots a Gogo 62 in Sector
- 1.2. Dalles du Capeps 30 in Sector
- 1.3. La Cascade 40 in Sector
- 1.4. Thorgal 31 in Sector
- 1.5. Plein sud 38 in Sector
- 1.6. Face de Rat 21 in Sector
- 1.7. Berlin 49 in Sector
- 1.8. Biographie 35 in Sector
- 1.9. Demi Lune 57 in Sector
- 1.10. Un Pont Sur L'infini 51 in Sector
- 1.11. Les Maitres du Monde / Bibendum 28 in Sector
- 1.12. Grande Face 86 in Sector
- 1.13. Nitshapa 79 in Sector
- 1.14. Natilik 25 in Sector
- 2. Index by grade
1. Céüse 632 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 44.502479, 5.948867
summary
Welcome to one of the best crags in France (and the world?)
description
Céüse ("say-uz") is known for long, hard and steep routes but there is something for everyone here: from steep and juggy, to vertical and technical, to bolted single pitches and trad multi-pitches...
Then there's the location: the cliffs are perched on top of a 2000m mountain with a majestic view on the south of France.
This is a great summer destination for sport climbing where you'll get to jump on classic climbs, some of historical importance such as 'Biographie', the first 9a+ in the world.
access issues
Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/
approach
There's always a catch and this is it: the walk-in is a real pain which will take between 45m and an hour depending on much stuff you carry and how fit you are. From the campsite, follow a marked site passed a horse shed until you reach a well-worn path leading upwards. Follow this past a staggered junction on a forest track until you get to a track that contours several hundred meters below the crag.
where to stay
Campsite "Camping Les Guerins" located some way beneath the crag.
ethic
Leave no trace.
history
Patrick Edlinger is believed to have been one of the first to recognise the importance of Ceuse for "futuristic" climbs. He was convinced after running around the cliff and brought some friends to start bolting hard routes. Not having much money to buy bolts, their routes were often pretty run-out but soon enough, Ceuse attracted strong climbers from all over the world.
Chris Sharma made the historic ascent of 'Biographie' in 2001 (bolted by Jean-Christophe Lafaille in 1989, 'first part' freed by Arnaud Petit that same year). The full route was later graded 9a+.
1.1. Golots a Gogo 62 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 44.500052, 5.929022
1.2. Dalles du Capeps 30 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 44.498682, 5.933146
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Sans la fesse | 6a | 2 | |||
2 | Avec la fesse | 6a | 2 | |||
3 |
★★ Histoire de fesses
FA: Laurent Girousse & Rolland Marie, 2013 | 6a | 35m | |||
4 | Regiment De Bananes | 6a | 35m | |||
5 |
★★ La forme des caresses
FA: Laurent Girousse & Rolland Marie, 2018 | 6a | 35m | |||
6 |
Devenir poète
FA: Laurent Girousse & Rolland Marie, 2018 | 6a | 35m | |||
7 |
Fesse bouc
FA: Laurent Girousse & Rolland Marie, 2018 | 5b | 37m | |||
8 | ★★ En Baskets | 5c+ | 35m | |||
9 | La Rage De Faire | 5c+ | 35m | |||
10 | La petite du We | 6c | 40m, 2 | |||
11 | ★ L'Australie | 6b | 45m, 3 | |||
12 | L'Otarie tarie l'eau | 4c | 3 | |||
13 | ★★ La Corse | 6a | 45m, 2 | |||
14 | ★ Un Peu Plus | 6a | 2 | |||
15 | Un Peu Moins | 6b | 43m, 2 | |||
16 | Perdu | 6b+ | 28m | |||
17 | Oh Baby | 6a | ||||
18 |
★★ Sergio
Updated to 6c as per the 2023 Ceuse guidebook (continues up and left of Plus ou moins). Rebolted in 2022. A 70m rope won’t reach the ground, rethread at the anchors halfway. | 6c | 40m, 18 | |||
19 | ★★ Plus Ou Moins | 6a | 30m | |||
20 | La Vie En Mauve | 6b+ | 28m | |||
21 | ★★ La Triomphe Des Roses | 6a+ | 2 | |||
22 | Jolie Julie | 6c | 58m | |||
23 | ★★★ Charlotte 2 | 6a+ | ||||
24 | La Main De Ma Sceur | 6a+ | ||||
25 | Cactus | 6b | ||||
26 | Qu'y s'y frotte s'y pique | 6b | ||||
27 |
Le syndrome du bas alpin
FA: Bruno Clément, 2010 | 7c | 55m, 2 | |||
28 | Le cul vers l'eau | 6b+ | 5 | |||
29 | Roman nose | 7a | 2 | |||
30 | Bac in love | 7c |
1.3. La Cascade 40 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 44.497778, 5.937530
description
Perhaps the most famous sector at Ceuse. The routes here are steep and sustained, but with good holds on which to get pumped. Expect a fair bit of polish on the classic routes. Start early if you want some shade.
approach
Follow the path to the left , passing through a gate, a small path leads to the right when you are under the sector.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
Wake
Climb up the 'tree' and follow the groove | 8b | 3 | |||
2 | Depart commun | 7b+ | ||||
3 | L'espace bleu | 8a | ||||
4 | Gare au goret | 7c+ | ||||
5 |
★★★ Violente illusion
A V9 boulder problem leads to 7b+ ground. | 8b | ||||
6 | Humble héros | |||||
7 |
★★★ Tenere
The mantel over the top roof is a heart breaker. Extension is 8a. | 7c+ | ||||
8 |
Amassakoul'n Ténéré
Extension of Ténéré. | 8a | ||||
9 | ★★ Direct Start to the easy route 30m R of Tenere | 6b+ | 20m | |||
10 |
★★★ Mirage
A superb classic. | 7c+ | 27m, 11 | |||
11 | ★★★ Blomu | 8a+ | ||||
12 |
★★★ Vagabond d'occident
Soft for the grade. | 7c | 30m, 9 | |||
13 |
★★★ Bleu blanc gyrophare
Hard and sharp. | 7c+ | 35m | |||
14 |
★★★ Blanches fesses
Sustained and excellent! | 7c | 30m | |||
15 | ★★★ Correspondance imaginaire | 7c+ | ||||
16 |
★★★ Corps étranger
Used to be 7c+, so tough at the current grade. | 7c | 30m | |||
17 | ★★★ Association de malfaiteurs | 7c+ | 38m, 13 | |||
18 |
★★★ Rosanna
Very bouldery crux. | 8a | ||||
19 | Question d'équilibre | 8b+ | ||||
20 |
Pieds nus sous les rhododendrons
Hard start, then much easier. Extension is 8b. | 7c+ | 9 | |||
21 |
Felicite
Extension of Pieds Nus... | 8b | ||||
22 |
★★★ Le privilege du serpent
Best route here? Extension is Magnificat 8b. | 7c+ | ||||
23 |
Magnificat
Extension of Le Privilege... | 8b | ||||
24 | ★★★ Fleur de lotus | 7c | ||||
25 |
★★★ Super Mickey
Some big pockets, still pumpy though and a tricky finale. | 7b | 23m, 10 | |||
26 |
★★★ Keket Blues
More sustained than Super Mickey and less polished. | 7b | 25m, 12 | |||
27 |
★★★ Hyper Mickey
A V5 bouldery start to Super Mickey. | 7c | ||||
28 | Tostaky | 8a+ | 35m, 12 | |||
29 |
★★★ L'atome de savoie
A harder start to Keket Blues | 8a | ||||
30 | Le sacrilège du déviant | 8a+ | ||||
31 | ★★ Alabama | 7b | ||||
32 | ★★★ Ananda | 7a | 25m | |||
33 |
★★ Medecine douce
Not quite the best for a warm up. Share same start as Women. | 6c+ | 20m | |||
34 |
★★★ Women
Intense lower section. Share same start as Medecine Douce. | 7a+ | ||||
35 |
Fletcher line
A bit painful. | 7b+ | ||||
36 | ★★ La bonne poire | 7a | ||||
37 | ★★ Les Sales Blagues a Nanard | 6c | ||||
38 | ★★ Des Trous Encore Direct | 6b | ||||
39 | ★ Des Trous Encore Des Trous | 6a+ | 5 | |||
40 | Un peu large | 6a | 2 |
1.4. Thorgal 31 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 44.496968, 5.940927
description
Plenty of technical, slabby routes in the mid 6s.
1.5. Plein sud 38 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 44.496792, 5.942776
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Le petit dièdre | 6b | 2 | |||
2 | ★★ Victor way of life | |||||
3 | Tif et tondu | 6b | 30m | |||
4 | Le sapin | 5b | 2 | |||
5 | ★ Le Meringoin | 5c | 20m | |||
6 | A l'ombre | 6a | ||||
7 | ★ Le Gros Dard | 5c | ||||
8 | ★ L Heure Du Demi | 5c | ||||
9 | Pousse Mousse | 6a+ | ||||
10 | FF Meuh | 5c | ||||
11 | Le friend | 5c | ||||
12 | ★★★ Itinérance | 6b | 30m | |||
13 |
Ils ont les bombes nous les Champagne
FA: Laurent Girousse, 2015 | 6c | 25m | |||
14 |
Supplique poiur être enterré sur la plage de Sète
FA: Laurent Girousse, 2015 | 6b | 30m | |||
15 |
La prière
FA: Laurent Girousse, 2015 | 5c+ | 20m | |||
16 |
★ Mourir pour des idées
FA: Laurent Girousse, 2015 | 5c | 25m | |||
17 |
★ ... mais de mort lente
FA: Laurent Girousse, 2015 | 6b+ | 35m | |||
18 |
Les copines d'abord
FA: Laurent Girousse, 2015 | 6a | 20m | |||
19 |
Les copains d'abord
Above Les copines d'abord. FA: Laurent Girousse, 2015 | 6c | 15m | |||
20 | La complainte des filles de joie | 5c+ | 25m | |||
21 | ★★★ La non demande en mariage | 6b | 2 | |||
22 | ★ Le pozzolo | 6b | 2 | |||
23 | À droite du Pozzolo | 6c | ||||
24 |
Migout des Alpes
Above À droite du Pozzolo. | 6b | ||||
25 | ★★ Rino c'est rose | 6b | ||||
26 | ★★ Pouic et le secteur magique | 6b | ||||
27 |
★★ Jojo le bricolo
FA: Joël Brochier, 2008 | 7b | 20m, 2 | |||
28 |
★ Lawe love
FA: Joël Brochier, 2008 | 5b+ | 8 | |||
29 |
★ Choupi choupa
FA: Joël Brochier, 2008 | 5c | ||||
30 | Maé la malice | 5b | ||||
31 |
★★ Paulo mon lapin
FA: Joël Brochier, 2008 | 5c | 15m, 9 | |||
32 | ★★ Joyeuse Mymi | 5c | 15m, 9 | |||
33 |
★★ Zoé ma grenouille
FA: Joël Brochier, 2008 | 6a | 15m, 9 | |||
34 |
★★ Maya la belle
FA: Joël Brochier, 2008 | 6a | 17m, 9 | |||
35 |
★★ Fredo mon poteau
FA: Joël Brochier, 2008 | 6b+ | 8 | |||
36 |
★★ Le doudou de Loulou
FA: Joël Brochier, 2008 | 6b | ||||
37 |
★★ Philou le matheux
FA: Joël Brochier, 2008 | 7a+ | 20m, 2 | |||
38 |
Le Knob
FA: Joël Brochier, 2008 | 7b+ |
1.6. Face de Rat 21 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 44.496969, 5.944373
description
Impressive sector but mostly undeveloped.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | L'envie au bout des doigts | 7b+ | ||||
2 | L'entreprise de Mussonerie | 7b+ | ||||
3 | ★★ Un Temps Pour Les Pierres | 6c+ | ||||
4 | Heros Positif | 7a+ | ||||
5 | Le bourgeois gentilhomme | 7c+ | ||||
6 | Tempete Sous Un Crane | 7b | ||||
7 | De pâtes et de lingerie | 8a | ||||
8 | Céüseries Graou pleure | 7c+ | ||||
9 | Mon ami le coyote | 8c+ | ||||
10 |
Ratstaman Vibrations
Set: Chris Sharma FFA: Alex Megos, Jul 2022 | 9b | ||||
11 | La hideuse aristocratie | |||||
12 | ★★ L'armée des Ombres | 8b+ | ||||
13 | Race de fat | 8b | ||||
14 |
★★★ Face de Rat
A classic. Very long and sustained. Despite some rests, the difficulties just keep coming. Put your technical head on too, just pulling won't get you up this one. | 8a+ | 30m, 11 | |||
15 | Le rat court si c'est vert | 8b | ||||
16 | Rab de farces | 8b | ||||
17 | Un jour plus vieux | 8b | ||||
18 | Il en faut peu pour être deux | 7b+/c | ||||
19 | Erreur de jeunesse | 5c A0 | ||||
20 | Chabada | 7a | ||||
21 | Belle sève | 6b |
1.7. Berlin 49 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 44.497547, 5.946526
description
Climb all the best routes here, then you can retire! The quality here is so overwhelming it's hard to appreciate individual routes when they are all so good. Bolts can be quite spaced. The slabby lower grade routes at the right hand aren't giveaways!
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Furie noire | 8c+ | 25m | |||
2 | Droit de cuissage | 8b | 25m | |||
3 | ★★★ L'Errance d'une Passion | 7c | 25m, 9 | |||
4 | ★★★ Monnaie De Singe | 8a+ | 25m | |||
5 |
★★★ Blocage Violent
Popular. Tough for the grade. | 7b+ | 28m | |||
6 |
★★★ Dolce Vita
Tough but a classic! | 8a+ | 25m | |||
7 | Grand John | 8a | 40m | |||
8 |
★★★ Petit Tom
Low in the grade. | 8a | ||||
9 | ★★★ Couleur Du Vent | 8a | 25m | |||
10 |
★★★ Berlin
Follow the impressive blue streak. Hard for the grade. Set: Eric Fossard, 1989 FFA: Eric Fossard, 1989 | 7c | 25m | |||
11 | ★★★ La Chose | 7c+ | 25m, 8 | |||
12 | ★★★ Le bidule intergalactique | 7c+ | 35m | |||
13 |
★★★ Galaxy
Given 7b+ locally. | 7c | 25m, 9 | |||
14 | ★★★ Makach Walou | 7c+ | 25m, 7 | |||
15 |
★★ Queue De Rat
Clipping the belay is tricky. Extension goes at 8a+. | 7b+ | 20m, 7 | |||
16 | ★★★ Queue de rat L2 | 8a+ | 20m | |||
17 |
Lülü
Set: Dave Graham FA: David Lama †, 2009 | 8c+/9a | 35m | |||
18 | ★★★ Rat Man | 8a+ | ||||
19 | ★★★ Bouse De Douze | 8a | 20m | |||
20 | Eternelle Flamme | 8a | 20m | |||
21 | Le corail de vie | 8c+ | 40m | |||
22 | ★★★ Le Concombre Masqué | 7c | 30m | |||
23 | ★★★ Super tomate | 7c+ | 40m | |||
24 | Archétype | 8b | 40m | |||
25 | ★★★ Petit jeu sans conséquence | 7b+ | 40m | |||
26 |
★★★ La Petite Illusion
Tremendous climbing, Run-outs bits aren't too hard, so keep going! | 7a+ | 40m | |||
27 | ★★★ Cucubau Setete | 7b+ | 30m | |||
28 |
★★★ Le bleu des causses
Good line but can get dirty. | 7b | 40m, 2 | |||
29 | ★★ Casse-noisette | 7a | 20m, 7 | |||
30 | ★★★ Le Bleusard Presse | 7a+ | 20m, 8 | |||
31 |
★★★ Ricoco
Extension is 7b+. | 7b+ | 35m, 2 | |||
32 |
★★★ Zagreb
Excellent from start to finish. | 6c | 25m | |||
33 | ★★★ Le Moustik Enrage | 7a+ | 25m | |||
34 |
★★ Comme Des Phoques
Ring bolts, not the fixed hangers a meter away | 6b+ | 20m, 6 | |||
35 | Invitation à léviter | 7c | 40m | |||
36 |
★★ Coup De Blues Pour Petit Dom
A well-featured route and always worthwile. | 6b | 20m | |||
37 | ★★ Super Mario | 6b+ | 20m, 7 | |||
38 | ★ Le Petit Martien | 7a | 35m, 2 | |||
39 |
★★★ Flora Verticalis
FA: Stéphanie Bodet & Arnaud Petit, 2002 | 7b | 40m, 14 | |||
40 | ★★★ Bleu comme l'enfer | 6c+ | 30m | |||
41 | ★★ Les caprices d'Anaïs | 6c+ | 30m, 11 | |||
42 | Coup de foudre | 7b+ | 30m | |||
43 | ★★★ Les conquérants inutiles | 7b | 30m | |||
44 |
★★ Monzob Sur Mer
Start up Les conquérants inutiles then branch right. Bouldery finish. | 7b | 20m | |||
45 |
★★★ San Jones Pecos
Classic - bouldery finish. | 7b+ | 25m | |||
46 | Silmplicité volontaire | 8a | ||||
47 |
★★★ Opération houblon
FA: Arnaud Petit, 2016 | 8b+ | 2 | |||
48 |
★★★ Cent Patates
A beautifully situated route. | 7b | 40m, 13 | |||
49 |
★★ Jungle Boogie
FA: Adam Ondra, 2012 | 9a+ | 35m |
1.8. Biographie 35 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 44.497974, 5.948604
description
Famous sector but well out of reach for all but a few. Not yet fully developed.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★★★ Jungle Boogie
FA: Adam Ondra, 2012 | 9a+ | ||||
2 |
★★★ Biographie L1
FA: Arnaud Petit, 1996 | 8c+ | ||||
3 |
★★★ Biographie
In 1989, Jean-Christophe Lafaille bolted the whole pitch and named it Biographie. In 1996, Arnaud Petit added an anchor in the middle of the route, and did the first ascent of the first half in that year. Around 2007 the anchor chains marking the end of the route which Arnaud Petit climbed were removed from the wall. In July 2001 Sharma became the first person to climb the full route and gave it the name "Realization", following the American way. Since then, Sharma has said that "most of the time I actually call the route Biographie". Ascent History:
| 9a+ | 40m | |||
4 |
Bibliography
Initially graded 9c but downgraded by Stefano Ghisolfi in agreement with Alex Megos in Aug-2021. Set: Ethan Pringle, 2009 FA: Alex Megos, 5 Aug 2020 | 9b+ | 35m | |||
5 |
Pornographie
Between "Bibliographie" and "L’Étrange Ivress". FA: Alex Megos, Jun 2020 | 9a | ||||
6 |
L'Etrange Ivresse des Lenteurs
Set: Sylvain Millet FA: Adam Ondra, 2010 | 9a+/b | 40m | |||
7 |
★★ Et On Tuera Tous Les Affreux / Le Cadre (Original Version)
Originally graded 8c but after a hold broke upgraded to 8c+/9a. | 8c+ | 40m | |||
8 |
★★★ Le Cadre (New Version)
Left variation of "Le Cadre" that avoids the chipped holds on the original line. Hard for the grade. Set: Sylvain Millet FA: Adam Ondra, 2010 | 9a | 40m | |||
9 |
Three Degrees Of Separation
Three big dynos. FA: Chris Sharma, 2007 | 9a | 25m | |||
10 | ★★★ La Part Du Diable | 8c+ | ||||
11 |
Dr Jekyll
Still project - Open - 9a+ ? Set: Quentin Chastagnier, 2015 | 9a+ | 30m | |||
12 |
★★★ Mister Hyde
FA: Quentin Chastagnier, 2015 | 8c+ | 30m | |||
13 |
Spoilt Kid
Location not exact, please move to the right spot! Set: Quentin Chastagnier FA: Nico Pelorson, 2020 | 9a | ||||
14 |
★★★ Les Colonnettes
The start can be aided which puts the route at a friendlier 7c+. | 8a | 25m | |||
15 |
★★★ The Black Bean
The enormous extension of Les Colonettes. Has been climbed on trad gear by Arnaud Petit. | 8b | 65m | |||
16 | ★★★ La Chronique De La Haine Ordinaire | 8c | 25m | |||
17 |
Forced Used Up
FA: Dave Graham, 2008 | 8c+ | 70m | |||
18 | ★★★ No Future | 8c+ | 70m | |||
19 | Les Enfants Gâtés | 8c - 9a | 35m | |||
20 | Baa Baa Black Sheep | 8c | 25m | |||
21 | Touchez Pas À Nos Idoles | |||||
22 |
Un Miroir Pour Narcisse
Extension of Touchez pas à nos idoles. | |||||
23 | ★★★ Ceredo Climbing Team | 8a+ | 30m | |||
24 | De L'Inconvénient D'Être Né | 7c+ | 55m | |||
25 |
★★★ Tout N'Est Pas Si Facile
Some clipped holds to finish. | 7c+ | 30m | |||
26 |
Stairway To Heaven
Extension of Tout n'est pas si facile. | 8b | 65m | |||
27 | L'Écaille | 8c | 60m | |||
28 | ★★★ La Femme À Barbe | 8a | 25m | |||
29 |
★★ Nitassinan
Very hard start but a great tufa pulling finish. | 7a | 25m | |||
30 |
La Route Bleue
FA: Arnaud Petit, 2012 | 8a+ | 30m | |||
31 | ★★★ Wounded Knee | 7b | 25m | |||
32 | ★★ Sitting Bull | 7b+ | 25m | |||
33 |
★★ Saint Georges Picos
Classic. Hard for the first four clips. | 7a | 20m | |||
34 | ★★★ J'Aime Lolo | 7a | 20m | |||
35 | Le Tue Peau De Satan | 7b+ | 30m |
1.9. Demi Lune 57 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 44.498789, 5.950543
description
Popular. A wide variety of grades on offer. The hard routes are usually of better quality.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | ★★★ La Femme Blanche | 8a+ | 35m, 11 | |||
2 |
★★★ La Femme Noire
Awesome line up the black streak, engaging bolt spacing, seeps a little. | 7c+ | 30m, 11 | |||
3 | ★★★ La Chirurgien Du Crepuscule | 8b | 35m | |||
4 | ★★★ Le Poinconneur Des Lilas | 8a+ | 25m | |||
5 | La femme fontaine | 8a+ | 25m | |||
6 | L'arcadémicien des crépis | 8c | 25m | |||
7 |
★★★ L'ami caouette
A hard route epitomizing the climbing in the area: fingery, technical, very sustained. | 8a | 25m | |||
8 |
★★★ Changement De Look
The definitive line on this wall and therefore a popular choice to challenge yourself. | 7b+ | 25m | |||
9 | Les joyeux bouchers | 7c+ | 35m | |||
10 | Marron Derrière | 7b+ | 35m | |||
11 | ★★★ Jaune Devant | 7b+ | 25m | |||
12 | ★★★ Vieille Canaille | 7b | 25m | |||
13 |
★★★ Angel Dust
Sustained, technical climbing. | 7a+ | 25m | |||
14 |
★★★ Melody Nelson
Easier than Angel Dust yet difficult to onsight. | 7a+ | 25m, 9 | |||
15 |
★★★ La Javanaise
Great climbing with no tricks. | 7a | 25m | |||
16 | ★★★ Gre blanc | 7a+ | 25m, 11, 11 | |||
17 | Koumac Patom | 7b+ | 25m | |||
18 |
★★ Esperanza
One tough move. | 7a+ | 25m | |||
19 | ★★ Les dingues et les paumés | 7b+ | 50m | |||
20 |
★★★ El Daü
The grade depends on your ability to climb on a vertical wall. | 6c+ | 25m, 8 | |||
21 | ★★ Les Dessous Chics | 7a+ | 25m | |||
22 |
★★ Harley Davidson
All-time classic. | 6b+ | 25m | |||
23 |
★★★ Ralez David sonne
Technically a 2nd pitch to Harley Davidson | 7a+ | 40m | |||
24 | ★★ Marylou | 6b | 20m | |||
25 |
★★★ Minette A La Plage
A hard extension to Marylou. | 7c | 35m | |||
26 | ★★ La Revanche du Pingolin | 6b | ||||
27 | ★★ Chant de cristal | 6b+ | 25m | |||
28 |
★★ Papyrus
Start up Chant de cristal and immediately fork right. Classic Ceuse climbing! | 6a+ | 25m | |||
29 | ★★ Beauf Story Pitch 1 | 6c | 30m | |||
30 |
★★★ Beauf Story
Can be accessed by climbing either Chant de cristal or Papyrus | 7b | 40m, 2 | |||
31 | ★★ Katina | 6a | 20m, 11 | |||
32 |
★★★ Uniqueaumonde.com
The groovy extension to Carte noire. | 7c | 40m | |||
33 | ★★ Carte noire | 6a | 20m | |||
34 |
★★★ Encore
Start up Carte Noire then move right. | 8a+ | 40m | |||
35 |
★ Sea Sex And Sun
Good climbing leads to a sharp finish. | 6a | 20m, 7 | |||
36 |
★★★ Radote Joli Pépère
Technically a 2nd pitch to un panda sur la banquise | 8b | 40m | |||
37 | ★★ Un panda sur la banquise | 6a | 20m | |||
38 | ★★ Les sucettes à l'anis | 6a | 20m | |||
39 | ★★ Cannabis ou Nutella | 6b | 20m | |||
40 | ★★ Face d'iguane | 6a+ | 20m, 9 | |||
41 |
★ Tête d'ampoule
The holds needed to clip the anchors on the top slab are unusable when the rooflet above seeps. | 6b | 20m | |||
42 |
Le bazar fait bien les choses
Extension of Tête d'ampoule | 8b+ | 40m | |||
43 | ★ Ceuse les souliers | 6a+ | 20m | |||
44 |
★★ Petit Monstre
The crack. But don't expect to climb the crack. | 6a | 17m, 9 | |||
45 | ★★ Couilles de loups | 6a+ | 20m, 11 | |||
46 | ★ A Patrick | 6a | 20m | |||
47 |
★★ Babylone
Babylone 6a+ in 2023 guide | 6a+ | 20m | |||
48 |
★★ Bonnye And Clyde
Bouldery start leads to easier climbing. | 6c | 20m | |||
49 |
Megos Proof
Initially estimated at 9a but downgraded to 8c+ by Megos and Nico Pelorson. Set: Quentin Chastagnier FA: Alex Megos, 23 Jun 2018 | 8c+ | ||||
50 |
★★★ Lapinerie
A big move to get to the chain. | 7b | 20m | |||
51 |
Et Dieu créa la flemme
Second pitch to Lapinerie Set: Sylvain Bessier FA: Alex Megos, Jul 2014 | 9a | 30m | |||
52 |
★★★ Dures Limites
Popular. Technical finish. | 8c | 30m | |||
53 | ★★★ Sueurs Froides | 8a+ | 28m | |||
54 |
★★★ Carte Blanche
Popular outing for the grade. Feet optional at the start. Expect to queue for this one! | 8a | 20m | |||
55 | ★★ Carte à gêne | 7c | 20m | |||
56 | ★★★ Sans peur et sanglier | 7c+ | 20m | |||
57 | ★★ Moi Et Lui | 8a |
1.10. Un Pont Sur L'infini 51 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 44.499946, 5.953307
description
A slightly longer walk in means this area is quieter than others. Long rope needed if you do the extensions...
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Le brosseur du dit manche | 7c+ | 35m | |||
2 |
★★★ Mâchoire d'âne
Quite bouldery for the grade. | 7c | 30m | |||
3 |
★★★ A l'ouest de partout
Starts with the route to the right and follows the plates leftwards after the second ring. | 7a | 25m | |||
4 | ★★★ Au sud de nulle part | 7b | 30m | |||
5 |
★★★ Pourquoi pas ?
A classic but with a sting in the tail. | 7a+ | 30m | |||
6 |
★★★ Beau mouvement sur fond bleu
Follow the beautiful blue streak. | 7a+ | 35m, 2, 13 | |||
7 |
★★★ La fissure Sans Nom
The prominent crack | 7c | 35m, 2 | |||
8 |
★★★ Le cœur des hommes
Brilliant steady climbing after a broken start. | 7a | 35m, 12 | |||
9 |
★★★ Désert minéral
Follow the undercut flake to start. | 7b | 40m | |||
10 |
★★★ Déferlante de prises
Start up Désert mineral, forks right. | 7b+ | 40m | |||
11 | ★★★ Grand mur malade | 7c | 40m | |||
12 |
★ Patient delly
10m first pitch to under roof. | 7c | 50m, 2 | |||
13 |
Oizeaudrome
An insanely long pitch. A 120m rope may get you down. | 8c | 60m | |||
14 |
★★ Bourinator
Two boulder problems on a route. | 8a | 30m | |||
15 | ★★★ Slow food | 8b+ | 30m | |||
16 |
Slow food bis
Right hand variant to Slow food | 8b | 30m | |||
17 |
Gaspacho
New route from 2020 | 7b+ | ||||
18 |
Main nue sur la pierre sacrèe
New route from 2020 | 7b+ | ||||
19 |
Cèüse m'habite
New route from 2020 | 7b | ||||
20 |
★★★ Gelati dominiti
A tough start - better not miss the key hold. | 7a | 30m, 11 | |||
21 | ★★★ Ça cartoon | 7a+ | 30m | |||
22 |
★★★ L'anus en décomposition
A desperate slabby section. | 7a | 30m | |||
23 |
Roger camion banane
Second pitch to l'anus en décomposition | 7b+ | 20m | |||
24 | ★★ Douceur candide | 6c+ | 35m, 2 | |||
25 |
Douceur fétide
Third pitch to Douceur candide | 7b | 15m | |||
26 |
★★ Oeil de Faucon
A bit powerful for a warm-up. | 6b+ | 20m | |||
27 |
★★ Equinoxe
Can link into a mega pitch with a 70m rope and rethread first pitch anchors to get back down safely. | 6c+ | 50m, 2 | |||
28 |
★★ 11 septembre 2001 ou la bêtise humaine
Start up Equinoxe, branch right above rooflet. | 6c+ | 40m, 14 | |||
29 | ★★ Théorème de Philippus | 7a | 35m | |||
30 | ★★★ Le Vol du Pilatus | 6b+ | 35m | |||
31 | ★★ Requiem pour un con | 6c+ | 50m, 2, 18 | |||
32 |
Sans nom
Start up Requiem pour un con and branch right before the first anchors, one mega pitch | 7a | 50m | |||
33 |
★★★ Dietetic Line
Great climbing and low in the grade. | 7b | 30m | |||
34 |
★★★ Opéra vertical
A little bit slabby... | 7b | 30m, 9 | |||
35 |
★★★ 2001 L'odyssée du grimpeur
Steady climbing. Just keep going. | 7b | 30m | |||
36 |
★★ Livingstone
New route just to the left of Mawoi, fixed hangers. | 7a | 40m, 2 | |||
37 |
★★★ Mawoi
Start up the ring bolts, not the fixed hangers a meter to the left | 7b+ | 50m, 3 | |||
38 | ★★★ Les écorchés vifs | 7b | ||||
39 |
★★★ Un Pont Sur L'infini
Can link into a mega pitch with a 70m rope and rethread first pitch anchors to get back down safely. | 7a | 40m, 2, 15 | |||
40 | ★★★ La Galere | 7a | ||||
41 |
★★★ La Reine Des Pommes
Popular candidate for an onsight. | 6c+ | 40m, 2, 18 | |||
42 | ★★★ Noir sur noir | 7a+ | 40m, 2 | |||
43 | New route | 7a | ||||
44 | La fin d'un primitif | 7b+ | 2 | |||
45 | ★★ Vas-y tonton | 7a | 38m, 2, 15 | |||
46 | ★ Escale à Pétaouchnok | 7b | 35m | |||
47 | ★★★ Aller en Chine | 7b | 35m | |||
48 |
★★★ Retour en Afrique / Cheyenne automne
Low in the grade. L1: 9 bolts | 7b+ | 2 | |||
49 | ★★ Silmarils | 6c | 30m, 10 | |||
50 | ★★★ Bunny and climb | 6b+ | 30m, 11 | |||
51 | ★ Un coquelicot sur tes lèvres | 6c | 30m |
1.11. Les Maitres du Monde 28 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
All Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 44.500583, 5.955323
description
The last of the single pitch routes before things get a lot bigger. It's possible to access the top of the crag on a via ferrata.
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Aïoli | 7a | 35m | |||
2 | ★★★ The big white spirit | 7b | 35m | |||
3 |
★ Les malvoyants
Can link into a mega pitch with a 70m rope and rethread first pitch anchors to get back down safely. | 6c | 40m, 2 | |||
4 |
★★ La renfougne
Climb the wide crack/chimney. | 6b | 40m | |||
5 | Fécondation in vitro | 6b+ | 25m | |||
6 | Un esprit saint dans un porcin | 7a+ | 42m | |||
7 | Scene de panique tranquille | 7b | 42m | |||
8 | Pas de panique | 7b+ | 42m | |||
9 |
The J. route
FA: Jorg Andreas, 2013 | 8b+ | 25m | |||
10 |
★★★ L'ami du tout le Monde
popular and quite polished. | 8b | 25m | |||
11 |
Conquerors of the Useless
Set: Jörg Andreas, 2013 FA: Alex Megos, Jul 2015 | 9a | 25m | |||
12 |
★★★ Le magicien de Riga
Hard for the grade. | 7c+ | 30m | |||
13 |
★★★ Teuchipa
Use the first quickdraw as a hold. Shorties may find the grade closer to 8a+. | 7c | 30m | |||
14 |
★★★ Bibendum
Use the first quickdraw as a hold. | 7b+ | 35m | |||
15 |
★★ Capitain Flam
The first two quickdraws are used as holds | 7b+ | 40m | |||
16 | Cheese de luxe | 8a+ | 60m | |||
17 | Le supplice du Sental | 8c | 40m | |||
18 | Masha et Moko | 8a | 55m | |||
19 |
Les maitres du monde
P1: The first quickdraw is used as a hold to get to a steep juggy crack. P2: Move out left from the belay and follow the excellent wall. P3: bouldery P4: follow the wall to the top | 7b | 60m, 4 | |||
20 | Axiome d'Euclide | 7b+ | 3 | |||
21 |
★ Les gros trous
Hard start, unlikely warm-up. Head left. | 6c | 30m | |||
22 |
Mémoire
Same start as les Gros Trous but straight up. | 6a+ | 30m | |||
23 | ★ La diagonale | 6a+ | 30m | |||
24 | ★★ Sème ton chanvre paysan | 6b | 35m | |||
25 | Le 2ème vol du Bourdoncle | 6b | 35m | |||
26 |
Klabautermann
FA: Alex Megos, 2015 | 8a+ | ||||
27 |
Dreikäsehoch
FA: Alex Megos, 2015 | 8b+ | ||||
28 |
Bloody Sunday
FA: Alex Megos, 2015 | 8b+ |
1.12. Grande Face 86 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 44.501604, 5.957082
1.13. Nitshapa 79 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Mostly Sport climbing
Lat / Long: 44.503852, 5.959118
1.14. Natilik 25 routes in Sector
- Summary:
-
Sport climbing and Trad climbing
Lat / Long: 44.506490, 5.960802
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 | Le calcaire endémique | 7b | 35m | |||
2 | ★ La fin des bonnes choses est-elle un mythe | 7a | 35m | |||
3 | ★★ Le coup de pouce haut savoyard | 6c | 35m | |||
4 | ★★ Welcome world climbers | 6b | 35m | |||
5 | Mai Facile | 6a | 3 | |||
6 | Planchud Des Gateaux | 6a+ | ||||
7 | Planchette Surprise | 6b+ | ||||
8 | Club vache à lait | 6b+ | 25m | |||
9 | La danse des cannelures | 7a+ | 25m | |||
10 | Sonate en mi mineur | 6c+ | 30m | |||
11 | Bon pied bon oeil | 7b | 30m | |||
12 | ★★★ Chérubin | 6b | 3 | |||
13 | Pierrot | 6a+ | 4 | |||
14 | A cheval sur Bucéphale | 7b | 30m | |||
15 | Le talus en décomposition | 7c+ | 50m | |||
16 | Le vertige du temps qui passe | 7b | 50m | |||
17 | Frôler l'éphémère | 7c+ | 50m | |||
18 | Le vent nous portera | 6c+ | 50m | |||
19 | Avalanche de prises | 6c | ||||
20 | Le grand large | 6c | 50m | |||
21 | Pépé peut peu | 6a | 2 | |||
22 | Mémé memeut | 6a | 2 | |||
23 | Un Air De Nouveau Monde | 7c+ | 3 | |||
24 |
★★★ Natilik
Don't forget to bring your camera. This old school trad line is undoubtedly the most classic of all multi-pitch routes at Ceuse. Five unique and memorable pitches finish at the top of the beautiful plateau of the Ceuse massif with amazing views of Gap and the hautes-alpes region. FA: Jean Christophe Lafaille & Philippe Macle | 6b | 120m, 5 | |||
25 | Horla | 6b | 3 |