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Pic Saint Loup Guide

  • Grade context: FR
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 20
  • Aka: Pic St-Loup

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Warning

Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

cazes Alma Shadow Sébastien Bouin Katherine Choong Victor Guillermin Cédric Lachat Vertical Pirate Chris Stephens

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Pic Saint Loup 36 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 43.778999, 3.805444

access issues

Some privately owned climbing areas may have restricted access. Check with https://www.ffme.fr/

inherited from France

ethic

Park where indicated, take care of the environment, buy the local guidebook when possible (this is one of the ways you can help local route setters), clean up your shoes before climbing, don't spray beta, be polite.

inherited from France
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
2 Pic Performance

http://pierreeteau.fr/topo-pic-performance-pic-saint-loup.html

7c Trad 210m, 7
3 Les Bartasseurs d'la Yaute

FA: Hugues Bonnel, 2014

6c Sport 7
4 Directe des IX Papes 6c Trad 120m
5 Voie Gaspard A1 Aid 70m, 3
6 Walker des garrigues

FA: Arno Catzeflis & Hugues Bonnel, 2010

7c ED Trad 260m, 11
7 Gueule de Loup 7c Sport 50m
8 Éperon de la Pousterle 4c Trad 70m, 3
9 Deuxième Éperon 5 Trad 200m, 7
10 Troisième Éperon 5c Trad 250m, 8
11 Le Pilier 5c Trad 90m
12 voie des dalles

C'est l'accès classique vers les voies du cirque des escargot et la voie Cook qui sort à la croix Monter vers le sentier de la diagonale et tourner à droite au pied de la falaise vers le large couloir qui monte au cirque des escargots (cordes fixes en place). Attaque au milieu du couloir.

  1. 35m (6a) Gravir la première dalle facile puis contourner la seconde dalle par la droite par un système de dièdre/fissure. Rétablissement sur une vire relais sur arbre.

  2. 15m (5a) Petit ressaut facile puis 2+ le long des cordes fixes qui rejoignent le cirque des escragots

FA: J-G Azema, D. Dainat & P. Dubois, 1959

5+ Trad 50m, 2
13 Voie du Torticolis 6a Trad 80m, 3

1.1. Cirque des Escargots 24 routes in Sector

Summary:
All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.779685, 3.810588

approach

50 m abseiling, Jumar compulsory for the return.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 1 7c+ Sport
2 2 8a+ Sport
3 3 7b Sport 2
4 La vérité est ailleurs 8a Sport
5 5 8c SportProject
6 Hélix au pays des Merveilles 8c+ Sport
7 Staphylocoque

Same start as Hélix au pays des Merveilles, then as Moksha, end as Kmira.

Set: Fedric Ferraro

FA: Cédric Lachat, 8 Jun 2014

9a/a+ Sport
8 Kmira

Same start as Staphylocoque.

Set: Fedric Ferraro

FA: Sébastien Bouin, 9 Jul 2015

9a+ Sport
9 Moksha

Same start as Hélix au pays des Merveilles.

Set: Fedric Ferraro

FFA: Gérôme Pouvreau, 2012

9a Sport 50m
10 Legend

FA: Sébastien Bouin, 16 Jun 2017

9a Sport
11 Ariégeois Cœur Loyal / ACL

Extension of "Legend".

Set: Sébastien Bouin, 2018

FFA: Sébastien Bouin, Apr 2023

9b Sport
12 Beyond

The route just left of Rois du Pétrole to the first anchor. Freed by Sébastien Bouin and proposed "hard 9a" or "soft 9a+".

In 2020 a key hold in the second crux broke making it 9a+.

Set: Fédric Ferraro

FFA: Sébastien Bouin, 26 May 2019

9a+ Sport
13 Beyond Integral

This is Beyond with its extension

Set: Set by Fédric Ferraro

FA: Sébastien Bouin, 22 Oct 2020

9b/b+ Sport 50m
14 Le Roi du Pétrole / Les rois du pétrole

FA: Caroline Ciavaldini, 2009

8c Sport 30m
15 Snail Paradise

Climbed by Charlotte Durif (24/7/2010)

8c+ Sport 2
16 ? 8a+ Sport
17 La genèse des Mutants 8b Sport
18 La mémoire des mutants 8b Sport
19 In mémorium 8b Sport
20 Terra Nova

Extension of the 8b.

FFA: Sébastien Bouin, 14 Oct 2020

8c+ Sport
21 ?? 7b+ Sport
22 ??? 7c Sport
23 Abseil 7c+ Sport
24 ???? 7b Sport

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop Area
4c Éperon de la Pousterle Trad 70m, 3 1. Pic Saint Loup
5 Deuxième Éperon Trad 200m, 7 1. Pic Saint Loup
5c Le Pilier Trad 90m 1. Pic Saint Loup
Troisième Éperon Trad 250m, 8 1. Pic Saint Loup
5+ voie des dalles Trad 50m, 2 1. Pic Saint Loup
6a Voie du Torticolis Trad 80m, 3 1. Pic Saint Loup
6c Directe des IX Papes Trad 120m 1. Pic Saint Loup
Les Bartasseurs d'la Yaute Sport 7 1. Pic Saint Loup
7b 3 Sport 2 1.1. Cirque des Escargots
???? Sport 1.1. Cirque des Escargots
7b+ ?? Sport 1.1. Cirque des Escargots
7c Gueule de Loup Sport 50m 1. Pic Saint Loup
Pic Performance Trad 210m, 7 1. Pic Saint Loup
??? Sport 1.1. Cirque des Escargots
7c ED Walker des garrigues Trad 260m, 11 1. Pic Saint Loup
7c+ 1 Sport 1.1. Cirque des Escargots
Abseil Sport 1.1. Cirque des Escargots
8a La vérité est ailleurs Sport 1.1. Cirque des Escargots
8a+ 2 Sport 1.1. Cirque des Escargots
? Sport 1.1. Cirque des Escargots
8b In mémorium Sport 1.1. Cirque des Escargots
La genèse des Mutants Sport 1.1. Cirque des Escargots
La mémoire des mutants Sport 1.1. Cirque des Escargots
8c 5 SportProject 1.1. Cirque des Escargots
Le Roi du Pétrole Sport 30m 1.1. Cirque des Escargots
8c+ Hélix au pays des Merveilles Sport 1.1. Cirque des Escargots
Snail Paradise Sport 2 1.1. Cirque des Escargots
Terra Nova Sport 1.1. Cirque des Escargots
9a Legend Sport 1.1. Cirque des Escargots
Moksha Sport 50m 1.1. Cirque des Escargots
9a/a+ Staphylocoque Sport 1.1. Cirque des Escargots
9a+ Beyond Sport 1.1. Cirque des Escargots
Kmira Sport 1.1. Cirque des Escargots
9b Ariégeois Cœur Loyal Sport 1.1. Cirque des Escargots
9b/b+ Beyond Integral Sport 50m 1.1. Cirque des Escargots
A1 Voie Gaspard Aid 70m, 3 1. Pic Saint Loup
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