Hirschbach Guide

A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.

At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.

This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.

Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Table of contents

1. Hirschbach 442 routes in Area

1 2 12 3 4 7 5 8 6

1 Klausener Wand 2 Habichtstein 3 Mittelbergwand 4 Castellwand 5 Kurt Albert Gedenkwand 6 Norisbrettl 7 Sprungstein 8 Neue Fischbrunner Wand 12 Schlaraffenland

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.553931, 11.529672

access issues

Seasonal closures for protected birds. See here: Closed crags

Additional information: IG Klettern closure list

Zoning concept

• Zone 1: NO climbing
• Zone 2: climbing on existing routes
• Zone 3: new routes possible

Please respect signs and zoning.

inherited from Frankenjura Nord

ethic

• The limestone is soft – please clean your shoes from dirt in order to avoid polished handholds and steps.
• Don't toprope directly through bolts – use your own material.
• Clean chalk and tickmarks with a brush.
• Don't leave toilet paper.
• Pick up rubbish.
• No unnecessary noise.
• No camp fire and bivvy.
• Park considerately (tractor should be able to pass also at the weekend).
• Smoking in the forests is forbidden from March 1 until October 31 by law.
• No publishing of boulder blocks.

inherited from Frankenjura Nord

1.1. Klausener Wand 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.561164, 11.551347

approach

GPS: 11.55149, 49.56118

1.2. Habichtstein 41 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.560964, 11.560402

description

The longer walk-in makes sense on crowded weekends, the quiet setting makes up for it. The middle section stays wet after rain while both sides dry off quicker.

access issues

This crag is usually closed from January 1 until July 31. An active closure is indicated by a warning and 'closed' tag here on the site; when in doubt, signs put up at the crag have precedence!

Dieser Fels ist üblicherweise von 1. Januar bis 31. Juli gesperrt. Eine aktive Sperrung wird auf dieser Seite durch eine Warnung und ein 'gesperrt'-Tag markiert; im Zweifelsfall haben die örtlich aufgehängten Schilder Vorrang!

approach

From Hirschbach towards Unterklausen,turn right into the village. at a fork take the right and a few meters further to the left. Leave the village always staying left. Park 700m after the end of the village at a T-Intersection. Walk right from here for 40m, at the fork turn right again. when you hit the edge of the forest and another fork turn left and left again at a crossing. follow this for about 570m into the forest again and turn right at the next crossing. after 90m take the right on the next fork. after 210m a path leads down to the crag in about 80m. GPS: 11.56008, 49.56077

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Schmalfußindianer	7-	Sport 10m, 3
2		★★ Frankenpolka Power! Harder route in the grade, difficult at finish.	6+	Sport 14m, 4
3		★ Pfeilerwand	7	Sport 16m, 4
4		★ Pfeilerkante	6+	Sport 16m, 4
5		★ Talwind	6-	Sport 16m, 5
6		★ Lange Wand	7-	Sport 16m, 5
7		★★ Hirschbachperle	6+	Sport 16m, 6
8		★ Habichtschrei	6-	Sport 16m, 4
9		★ Vergebung	8-	Sport 16m, 4
10		Erlösung	8-	Sport 16m, 4
11		Kasatschok	7-	Sport 10m, 4
12		Teufelsgeiger	7-	Sport 10m, 4
13		Vorfreude	6	Sport 12m, 5
14		Blockade	8-	Sport 12m, 6
15		Nightliner	6-	Sport 14m, 5
16		Kurschatten	8-	Sport 14m, 4
17		Reha	7	Sport 14m, 3
18		★ Roßkur	9-	Sport 14m, 4
19		Tagträumer	8+	SportProject 10m, 4
20		Traumfänger	8+	Sport 10m, 3
21		Dieselgate Set: J. Schulz, 2018	9	Sport 10m, 5
22		Übermut tut selten gut	8+	Sport 10m, 3
23		Stinkefinger	8+	Sport 10m, 2
24		★ Adios	8+	Sport 10m, 4
25		★★★ Hieroglyphen Set: J. Schulz, 2018	10-	Sport 10m, 5
26		★★ Minimalinvasiv Set: J. Schulz, 2018	9+	Sport 11m, 4
27		Abrissbirne Set: J. Schulz, 2018	9+	Sport 11m, 4
28		★ Boandlkrama	8-	Sport 16m, 4
29		★★★ Unter dem Radar Set: J. Schulz, 2018	9+/10-	Sport 12m, 5
30		The Big Raushole Set: J. Schulz, 2018	9	Sport 12m, 5
31		Spike Lee Set: J. Schulz, 2018	9+	Sport 8m, 4
32		★ Logo in Togo	5+	Sport 12m, 4
33		★★ Herz Ass	7	Sport 16m, 5
34		★★ Karo Ass	7	Sport 16m, 5
35		★ Pik Ass	7+	Sport 16m, 6
36		★★ Una bella Signora	8-	Sport 16m, 4
37		★ Abzweiger	7+	Sport 16m, 4
38		Schattenspiel direkt	7-	Sport 10m, 3
39		Schattenspiel	5	Sport 10m, 3
40		Hoffnung	6-	Sport 10m, 3
41		Schnabelkante Set: Jan Luft, 2015	5+	Sport 10m, 3
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1.3. Mittelbergwand 55 routes in Crag

1 2

1 Linker Teil 2 Rechter Teil

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.550494, 11.527895

1.3.1. Linker Teil 42 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.550636, 11.527662

1.3.2. Rechter Teil 13 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.550211, 11.528361

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		★★ Blues zum Gruß	5	Sport 25m, 7
2		★ Norissteig - Mittelbergwand Der "Norissteig" (https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Norissteig) ist ein umfangreicherer Wald-Felsen-Pfad mit Klettersteigpassagen. Einer seiner drahtseilversicherten Abschnitte führt durch die Mittelbergwand. http://www.klettersteig.de/images/user_images/big/11-6.jpg Set: DAV Sektion Noris, 1928		Via ferrata
3		★ Spätzünder	5+	Sport 25m, 3
4		Nie wieder blond	7-	Sport 5
5		Bergwachtverschneidung	6+	Sport 4
6		★ Bergwachtverschneidung Variante	6+	Sport 25m, 6
7		★ Für Cathy FFA: Bernhard Thum	7	Sport 6
8		★★ Sepuko	6-	Sport 20m, 5
9		★ Dsibbflschwingä	5	Sport 12m, 3
10		★ Schatzsucher	5	Sport 12m, 4
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
11		★ Schwartenjodler	4+	Sport 8m, 3
12		★★ Schrägaufzug	6+	Sport 10m, 4
13		Bodyguard	7	Sport 10m, 4
Rechter Teil

1.4. Castellwand 55 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.549323, 11.527246

1.5. Kurt Albert Gedenkwand 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.548660, 11.523711

description

In remembrance of Kurt Albert †.

1.6. Norisbrettl 54 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.544123, 11.530645

approach

GPS: 11.53086, 49.54421

1.7. Sprungstein 26 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.548988, 11.511363

approach

GPS: 11.50943, 49.55209

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
Talseite
2		★★ No smoke, no hope follows the vage corner, straight up	9-	Sport 12m, 3
3		Günther Wolf Gedenkweg Variante starts like No Smoke in the corner, traverses out right after the second bolt and up past two more bolts	8+	Sport 14m, 4
4		Neue Talseite / Günther Wolf Gedenkweg FFA: Kurt Albert †, 1981	8+	Sport 30m, 10
5		★ climbing sunday Fingerlastig, Trickreich Schlinge am dritten Haken Vierter Haken für kleine Leute schwer einzuhängen FA: Uwe Loos, 2022	9-	Sport 20m, 7
6		★★ Flash in Time	8	Sport 15m, 5
7		★★ Kli Kla Klettermaus joins Neue Talseite at the 4th Bolt	8+	Sport 30m, 10
8		★★ Tage wie diese	8	Sport 20m, 5
9		★★★ Alte Talseite A varied classic. A lot of people stop in the middle since all the business is done, it's a nice stroll to the top, though, if you go slightly right at the end of the main face. FA: Fridolin Kagerer, 1936	7	Sport 35m, 12
10		★★★ 1, 2, 3 im Sauseschritt	9-	Sport 20m
11		★★ Elysion Variant which links the start of 1,2,3 with Diretissima	9	Sport 20m
12		★★★ Direttissima	10-	Sport
13		Drecksteil	10-	Sport
14		Drecksack	10	Sport
15		★★ Game Changer / Projekt	10-	Sport 15m
16		Direkte Südostkante FA: P. Loos, T. Förster & K. Wohlmuth, 1969	8-	Sport
Bergseite
18		★ Südostkante Cruxy start leads you through a cave to the very top of the tower! Would be great if only climbed more often.	5+	Sport 30m
19		★★ Ostwand	5	Sport 30m
20		★★ Paradiesvogel Cruxy start leads you to the very top of the pillar! Would be great if only climbed more often.	5+	Sport 25m
21		Paradiesvogel - Einstiegsvariante	6-	Sport 25m
22		Freispitzlerweg FA: Freispitzler Nürnberg, 1925	5	Sport 25m
23		★ Freispitzler - Direktvariante	6	Sport 20m
24		Zentrale Bergseite	8	Sport 20m
25		Bergseite	5+	Sport
26		Quergang / Alter Weg linker Einstieg	5	Sport
27		★★ Westkante / Alter Weg FA: F. O. (Rifflerbuben Nürnberg), 1906	4	Sport 20m
28		Südwestwand Variant of "Westkante" which traverses further into the south-west face.	4	Mixed trad 35m, 2, 3
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1.8. Neue Fischbrunner Wand 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 49.545304, 11.513124

1.9. Neutrale Zone 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.10. Schattenwand 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.11. Todesstern 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Free Han Solo	8-	Sport
2		Prinzessin Leia	7	Sport
3		Sternenzerstörer	9-	Sport
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
4		Skywalker	9	Sport
5		Project		SportProject
6		Imperial March	10-	Sport
7		Der Pfad zur dunklen Seite	8-	Sport

1.12. Schlaraffenland 139 routes in Crag

1 2 3 4 5

1 Schmidbergwand 2 Schlachtschüssel 3 Rabensteiner Wand 4 Hirschbacher Wand 5 Teufelsrissmassiv

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.552557, 11.532047

approach

Drive from Pommelsbrunn towards Hirschbach, right at the beginning of the village is a big Parking spot for hikers. walk into Hirschbach and turn right after 100 meters onto a narrow road leading uphill (Neutras). follow this to the end (120m), then left onto dirt and left again at a fork. after another 120m you can follow a path up towards Teufelsrissmassiv, the 1st crag of Schlaraffenland which lines the valley above Hirschbach.

1.12.1. Schmidbergwand 22 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.553306, 11.533315

summary

all the connected Crags offer a wide variety of grades, styles and even the rock varies a bit. Shade all day make it a great summer location.

description

This Crag is part of a series of cliffs called Schlaraffenland, all conveniently close together.

approach

Drive from Pommelsbrunn towards Hirschbach, right at the beginning of the village is a big Parking spot for hikers. walk into Hirschbach and turn right after 100 meters onto a narrow road leading uphill (Neutras). follow this to the end (120m), then left onto dirt and left again at a fork. after another 120m you can follow a path up towards Teufelsrissmassiv, and simply walk along until you get there, its the 5th crag of Schlaraffenland which lines the valley above Hirschbach. GPS: 11.53322, 49.55327

		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
1		Keule	6	Sport
2		Bullenhitz FFA: Jan Luft, 2004	7+	Sport
3		★★★ Moralelastix FFA: Bernhard Thum, 1985	8+	Sport 18m
4		Hüttenzauber FFA: Gerald Böff, 1999	7+	Sport 18m
5		(?)	7-	Sport
6		Hüttensteig	4+	Sport
7		★ Left Lane Cruiser FA: Julian Lehmann, 2023	6+	Sport 25m
8		★★ Zwischen Rhein und Aufruhr FFA: Bernhard Thum, 1985	7+/8-	Sport 5
9		★★★ Götterhämmerung FFA: Bernhard Thum, 1987	9	Sport
10		★★ Jungmannenweg	7	Sport 13m
11		★★ Jungfrauenstiege FFA: Oliver Trautmann, 2007	9+	Sport 20m
12		★★ Wellenkamp Gedenkweg direkt FFA: Oliver Trautmann, 2007	7-	Sport 23m
13		★★ Jürgen Wellenkamp Gedenkweg	7-	Sport 23m
14		★★★ Commander Superfinger FFA: Bernhard Thum, 1986	9-	Sport 18m
15		★★ Sepp Innerkofler Gedenkweg	7-	Sport 23m
16		★★ Stinker FFA: Thomas Heinze	7+	Sport 23m
17		★ Brellder Fruusch FFA: D. Wimmer, 2005	6-	Sport 18m
18		Niemandsland	4	Sport
19		Thron Steine Scherben	6+	Sport
20		★★ Beouf au vin	5-	Sport
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		Route	Grade	Style		Selected ascents
21		★ Westkante / Hirschbachkante FFA: Oskar Bühler, 1935	3	Mixed trad 20m, 2
22		Westriß	5-	Sport 23m

1.12.2. Schlachtschüssel 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.553023, 11.532887

summary

All the connected crags offer a wide variety of grades, styles and even the rock varies a bit. Shade all day make it a great summer location.

description

This crag is part of a series of cliffs called Schlaraffenland, all conveniently close together.

access issues

Zone 2

approach

Drive from Pommelsbrunn towards Hirschbach, right at the beginning of the village is a big Parking spot for hikers. walk into Hirschbach and turn right after 100 meters onto a narrow road leading uphill (Neutras). follow this to the end (120m), then left onto dirt and left again at a fork. after another 120m you can follow a path up towards Teufelsrissmassiv, and simply walk along until you get there, its the 4th crag of Schlaraffenland which lines the valley above Hirschbach.

1.12.3. Rabensteiner Wand 14 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 49.552625, 11.532527

summary

all the connected Crags offer a wide variety of grades, styles and even the rock varies a bit. Shade all day make it a great summer location.

description

This Crag is part of a series of cliffs called Schlaraffenland, all conveniently close together.

approach

Drive from Pommelsbrunn towards Hirschbach, right at the beginning of the village is a big Parking spot for hikers. walk into Hirschbach and turn right after 100 meters onto a narrow road leading uphill (Neutras). follow this to the end (120m), then left onto dirt and left again at a fork. after another 120m you can follow a path up towards the crag, its the 3rd crag of Schlaraffenland which lines the valley above Hirschbach.