Routes in Trentino for selected grade

Si percorrono i primi tre tiri della Via normale e poi si devia sulla cengia vestro Est. Superati i tetti si sale verso dei gradoni che tornano verso ovest. Un chiodo visibile alla partenza. Descrizione dei tiri:

1. Traversare verso sinistra alzandosi fino a raggiungere un terrazzino in prossimità dello spigolo, sotto dei tetti gialli. Un chiodo, un nut incastrato. 30m, II

2. In verticale dalla sosta verso lo strapiombino, chiodi visibili. Traversare verso sinistra, delicato. Proseguire in alto fino alla sosta su spuntone. 15m, V+

3. Proseguire in verticale sopra la sosta tenendosi lungo lo spigolo fino alla sosta su terrazzino. 3 chiodi un po' nascosti. 35m, IV+

4. Dalla sosta ancora in verticale verso un diedro fino a una cengia dove si sosta in prossimità dello spigolo. 2 chiodi. 20m, IV

5. Salire lo strapiombino in direzione di una fessura, chiodo visibile. Continuare fino alla cima con arrampicata più facile. Sosta con due fix a terra. 25m, VI-

Via moderna con soste e protezioni a spit, portare qualche nut e friend per integrare. Continua

Shares anchor with Test.

Same start as Diedro 84 but ends more right.

Leftmost route on the upper ledge. Has intermediate anchor.

First pitch is good for beginners and because of that a little bit polished. Second pitch is a dihedral. The belay after the first pitch can be left a side if your rope is at least 60m.

Dihedral. Apparently wrong name written at the base of the route.

First route on right-hand side of dihedral. Apparently wrong name written at the base of the route.

Same start as Bart, leftmost variant.

Same anchor like 'Edolo'

Bolts and rock tunnels, some frineds and slings are recommended two sequences with VI option to add another pitch with two versions (right: nice groove, left: hard and very alpine bolted groove, but nice climb! Mind the rope drag, use super long slings) http://www.klettern-sarcatal.com/linda.htm

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/via-linda-arco/

This variation goes direct through roof/corner system on P3 (protected by new-ish looking piton).

A few pitons and some rope tied through rock tunnels. Each belay has 1 bolt + a tree or rock tunnel. No trad gear needed except extra slings, but a few medium/large nuts would reduce the often long run-outs.

To find the start: Park at the Pizzeria Lanterna (and grab a beer there after) and head S on the road ~150 m until you see a path. Then head up and to the left until you hit the wall, then head left. The route is after Caldo Inverno and La Cengia Rossa and the scrambly start is marked in red and black paint.

Water holes and friction. Old pegs (red).

This is a newer variant of Via Argo. It climbs cleaner and with less vegetation.

name is written on the base

Guidebooks rate it 5a-5b, but feels 4c max. Well secured with bolts. Easy descent from top by walking down through a scree and then along trails.

Friends necessary

1SL: 3c; 7m 2SL: 5b; 7m

This route can be perfectly combined with "Variante, Via del Gufetto, Superiore" A set of friends and nuts is highly recommended. Topos can be found here: https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/via-del-gufetto-parete-dell-ir/ (German) or https://www.arrampicata-arco.com/via-del-gufetto.html (Italian)

shares anchors with Prima fregatura

blocky crack

Starts left of Via Caino e Abele and crosses this route after the first pitch. Relatively "green&brown" route but the rock parts are still nice to climb. The difficult parts are very well protected with bolts.