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Toichimen Iwa syoumenheki /十一面岩正面壁

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 1
  • Ascents: 38
  • Aka: 十一面岩

Seasonality

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Summary

Known for single and multipitch crack climbing. Probably the most popular of the trad areas at Mizugaki.

Description

Some cracks seep for a long time after rain, others are quicker, and Astrodome is often dry even during rain.

Access issues inherited from Japan

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Approach

Take the trail leaving the right side of the upper meadow and head straight uphill. When the formed hiking trail ends, continue on the climber's trail uphill. Turn right at a cairn (there are several that work), cross the creek to the right then follow climber's paths uphill again. At a huge boulder with a tree somehow living in air above it, the path heads right and crosses a rocky gully, before heading left and up again. Passing an overhung boulder, you should reach Toichimen End Wall on the left. (~1 hour).

To reach the further walls, head up the rocky gully, following some cairns, to re-enter the forest on the left at a large cairn. From here tape, cairns and fixed ropes lead to various walls.

Ethic inherited from Japan

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.

http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0

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Thu 8 Jun
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