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Kanmanboron

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 10
  • Aka: カンマンボロン

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Japan

Some spots have access issues as many spots near crowded places elsewhere. So please ensure you follow the recommendations of local climbers and behave responsibly.

Approach

40min walk from the carpark

Ethic inherited from Japan

There`s not a lot of information about climbing in Japan in English. Much of the information is only available in Japanese - or of course here on theCrag!

The Japan Free Climbing Association (http://freeclimb.jp/seibi/seibi.htm) is a good point of contact and there is a set of 5 guidebooks (all in Japanese) and an alpine guide book in English available covering all of Japan and its thousands of sport and trad routes and boulders.

http://www.yamakei.co.jp/products/2811180810.html

https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Alpine-Climbs-Japan-Climb-ebook/dp/B01ARU5KR0

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Routes

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Grade Route

Translates as "Rock Hall of Fame”。 A true classic and one of the top 10 climbs at Mizugaki. This is a must do route.

Starts on huge jugs and big features, but quickly changes to very small holds and bad feet just as the wall starts to become overhung. The crux of the climb is the last 5m. Save your energy and your nerves for the top section as it is very technical, pumpy and run out. This is a great climb and should be attempted at least once.

hand and fist size crack up to two large flake like features. The crack continues above on thin hands and fingures which leads to the crux at 3/4 height. The crux section is very hard to protect and run out. Plug a small TC 00 at the start (there is really only one place that you can place protection), then fingure jam and layback like a madman up to a "Thank God" edge where you can rest while you get your nerves back again. Great climb with losts of thrill.

Very short climb. The crux is at 1/3 height where you need to get a height foot stance to gain the jug hold about 2m below the over hang.

C0.3 ~ 3 sized Cams

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Thu 8 Jun
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