The first route to this particular summit. Starts at the obvious chimney on the sandy terrace and follows the line of least resistance. Has some bushy/scrambling pitches before merging with Joyful Moment during the last pitch.
To descend, scramble roughly west from the summit down boulders. At some point, can turn around and go under the last boulder you climbed down, making a small cave that leads back towards the descent gully.
Start around 30m right from Outsider, at obviously worn left-leading flake/crack.
Left-leaning crack to tree. Possible to link with the next pitch if you don't have too much drag.
Traverse left along ledge to base of steep crack.
Steep crack - be careful of fragile rock, especially the hanging tufa-like thing near the start. Otherwise an enjoyable pitch. One old bolt near the start.
V-groove flaring crack, initially steep then slabby but widens, requiring some offwidth technique. Old bolted anchor or use gear.
Scramble through boulders behind then short crack to the summit, gear anchor.
Double rack + #4 and #5 helpful.
To descend, scramble roughly west from the summit down boulders. At some point, can turn around and go under the last boulder you climbed down, making a small cave that leads back towards the descent gully.
Classic Slab route. The route is in a prime location with gallery style viewing and combines fantasic moves. This is the classic Japanese Slab route at the lower grade.
