Laos Guide

Summary:

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Seasonality

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 18.530054, 103.744979

summary

Laos offers more climbing than you might think. Of course there is the major spot near Thakek but many other smaller ones are worth exploring.

Laos is easy to travel to, most people do it over land coming from Thailand or Vietnam. Reaching the major tourist destinations near Vientiane or Thakek is easy by public transport, from there it is often just a short hop to the climbing destinations.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 18.906830, 103.096420

approach

4 daily buses from Vientiane

1 daily bus/songthaew from Phonsavan

1 songthaew to the Nam Ngum 2 lake, then taking a boat and another songthaew and bus to get to Vang Vieng

Summary:

Lat / Long: 18.906830, 103.096420

description

Brilliant rock, absolutely clean and with much more future potential.

access issues

A registration at the local police station might be needed for 20,000kip per person, until the area is completely open for tourists.

approach

20 min walk from the town centre to the base of the Houa Xang (Elephant Head Mountain)

where to stay

Guesthouse in town near the main road junction and the BCEL bank

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 19.522379, 102.227180

description

Check out Adam's Climbing School for guiding and equipment rental.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 19.035044, 102.425742

approach

About 7 km north of Vang Vieng town.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 18.945725, 102.435156

description

Located in Interzone resort near the small flying fox. The crag is well shaded all day long and the remains quite cool.

approach

UPDATE

As of Feb 2023 the crag is located in Interzone resort. Rent a motorbike and ride north of town, use maps to locate and cross the metal bridge. As soon as you do you'll see a dirt road to your right with signs for Interzone Resort. Follow these and park right next to the crag. Google maps doesn't show the dirt roads after the bridge but OSM on The Crag does.

Old approach beta

Scooter or jumbo north of town to the parking area for Neverland zip line and restaurant, then you have two options:

Wave the boat man over from the left side facing across the river, he will take you over and bring you back for 5000kip per person each way, then go up the riverbank and round to the right to get to the crag. (Much easier and very cheap) If you don’t see him, a local will normally shout him when they see you waiting. (As of Feb 2023 no "boatman" could be located. This is a launching point for a lot of the kayaking)
Cross the bridge to neverland and turn left, then take the path down to the riverside and follow the red and white plastic markers along the side of the river, and turn right to reach the crag. (Backup option as more difficult)(As of Feb 2023 this path is very overgrown and difficult to pass, could also require some wading along the riverbank)

Summary:

All Sport climbing

summary

Sleeping cave (Tham None in Lao) is a small river cave near the Sleeping Wall and Secret Canyon areas. As of 2022, climbing is not possible here.

description

The cave, like most in Laos, is a limestone dissolution cave with a small stream going through the bottom. The drainage of the stream has been artificially blocked to create a tubing attraction for tourists (part of the Angel Cave complex). This has flooded the bottom of the cave. 1st bolts have been submerged and belay stances are underwater. The area is no longer in use and has essentially been abandoned by the local climbing community.

access issues

Climbing is not currently possible at Sleeping cave.

approach

Cross the blue footbridge to the Angel Cave complex (10,000 Lao kip per person). Take a footbridge over the small stream in front of you and you'll see the cave tubing.

history

Routes were established in the early 2000s by Volker Schöffl et al. Before the stream was dammed climbing was possible in the dry months.

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 18.944920, 102.433998

summary

Sheltered climbing to escape the heat in a narrow canyon.

description

Nice climbing, characteristic of the region, a very nice setting in a canyon and a tunnel leading out. Routes are labelled by name. Foot traffic has increased greatly by the addition of a walking loop for visitors, including adding electric lights in the cave tunnel and building a handrail in an awkward position at the base of the routes on wall II. Go at a quiet time in the morning or on weekdays to avoid feeling like a zoo exhibit for the steam of visitors.

access issues

10,000 Lao kip fee to enter via the Angel Cave footbridge. A barbed wire fence has been installed on the old access trail from 'Sleeping Wall'.

approach

The main access is via the blue footbridge for Angel Cave complex. Follow the signs for the cave, and pay your 10k for the ticket. The approach goes through Angel Cave, emerging in the canyon. The chimney routes from 'Chimney Gym' to 'The Light at the End of the Tunnel' are on the other side of the narrow cave passage exit.

Alternatively, from Sleeping Roof part of Sleeping Wall, follow a trail to the left for 200m. You will see the rocks on your right, and you can enter through the back tunnel. There is also a more scrambly approach before this which you may inadvertently take. Development of the area including a barbed wire fence installed between Interzone and Angel Cave are leading this way to fall into disuse. The convenience of going through the cafe is worth the <1 dollar fee.

where to stay

Vang Vieng town

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 18.950159, 102.435121

summary

Multi pitch climbs

approach

Pass Secret Canyon on the left along a scrambly trail, follow the red marks

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 18.926255, 102.431012

summary

20ish sport routes at the base of the obvious karst formation on the western side of Vang Vieng's Nam Song River. Potential for more with plans to install several multipitch routes in the future.

description

Sunny south oriented wall. Overhanging stalactite rich limestone sections stay fairly dry in light rain, and thus can be climbed year round. Plenty of trees and a hollow at the base of the main wall provide shade all day.

access issues

As of 2022 access fees were no longer being charged for entry. The route passes through an (unlocked) gate, but its purpose is to keep cows off the road, so close it behind you. Be respectful to the farmers whose fields you pass on the way in.

approach

The approach to Pha Daeng has improved since 2021. If coming from the main part of town, you'll need to cross the river. Don't underestimate the approach; wear proper shoes and bring plenty of water.

Take the main suspension bridge crossing the Nam Song river in the Southwest of town (toll: 4,000 Kip/person RT as of 2022, 8k for motorbike, 20k for car) and go right at the intersection when getting down.
Continue straight (up river) 100 meters. The road turns left and continues straight for about 1.5km. On your left you'll pass a zipline place and dune buggy rental shops.
On the right, there is an unmarked gravel road leading towards the crag. If you miss the turn, or if you need to rent gear, get directions, etc. Adam's climbing school shop (new location) is 1 minute further down the road on the left. If you see Valhalla or Bearlin on the right, you've gone too far.
Follow the gravel path until you reach a black gate. It's there to keep the cows in, so close it behind you.
Continue past the rice paddies until you reach the end of the road. From here you must continue on foot. Use the step ladder to pass over the fence and you'll immediately see a dry creek bed.
Turn right (downstream), following the creek bed for 100 meters until it turns left. The access trail is on the left (mountain) side and is only about 1m wide, so watch for it carefully.
Follow the trail for 50 meters until you reach thicker vegetation surrounding boulders that make up the rest of the approach.
Follow the trail for a steep 15 minute scramble through the boulders. The trail is muddy in parts and the limestone is slick when wet.

You emerge at Main Wall. Overhang Wall is further to the left after the stalactite columns; you'll see the red painted route names from the Hot Rock Tour in 2009. The Left Wall is yet a little further to the left of these routes and contains the easiest grades at the crag.

where to stay

As of 2022 there are now options to stay only minutes from Pha Deang. Bearlin bungalows and Valhalla bungalows are on the main road parallel to the crag. Plenty of places of all range of price and quality can be found on the other side of the river in the main part of town.

history

Paul Turecki and Kirsten Kremer reported having established some trad routes here in 1999; see AAC article here for more information.

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 18.969652, 102.439162

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 19.084324, 102.408174

summary

This area is in the vicinity of the village of Pha Tang, a little ways north of Vang Vieng, where the main highway crosses the Nam Song River.

description

Pha Tang is about 30km north of Van Vieng on the way from Luang Prabang to Thakek. The climbing spot offers a good number of long routes on excellent limestone, mostly sport climbing but also some multi pitch routes. As this spot is not frequented a lot some of the routes require cleaning from dust and spider webs ;-).

where to stay

About 4km south is a small guest house at the river offering food and accomodation, other than that there is nothing much.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 17.434665, 104.865069

summary

Most developed climbing area in Laos with easy access to over 272 vertical & overhanging sport routes graded 4 - 8a+. A large limestone cave offers gymnastic climbing on a beautiful tufa featured roof.

description

他曲攀岩攻略

UK climbing 2020 summary: https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/destinations/sport_climbing_in_thakhek__south_east_asias_best_sport_climbing-12600

access issues

None

approach

5 - 10 min from Green Climbers Home Camp 1 or 2 to 'Pha Tam Kam' or ~20 min to 'Tha Falang'.

15 - 25 min from Thakhek by vehicle or motorbike.

where to stay

Green Climbers Home https://www.greenclimbershome.com/ is located at the base of 'Pha Tam Kam'. The town of Thakhek is 12km from 'Pha Tam Kam' and offers a variety accommodation and food options.

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 17.450583, 104.912636