Routes in Malaysia for selected grade

Trad line on the left, maybe replaced by bolted routes. Very exposed. https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/malaisie/tioman-island-mukut/the-green-line-nipah/

https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/malaisie/tioman-island-mukut/nenek-simukut-freebird/

https://verticalpirate-escalade.com/topos-escalade/malaisie/tioman-island-mukut/puncak-anak-wind-of-change/

Route heads up and to the left. Top out to the left and down the spine of the rocky out crop. Be careful of compact sediment on top masquerading as rock. Nice fun climb on beautiful looking rock.

5 bolts + 1 thread

Share the same start with Bicep Sting, deviate left after the 4th clip.

3 bolts + 3 threads

Bolted by: Aril

4 bolts + 3 Threads

Bolted by: Aril

7 bolts + 1 thread

Bolted by: Aril

Bolted by: Aril

6 bolts + 1 thread

Bolted by: Aril

7 bolts + 1 thread

Bolted by: Lan

Bolted by: Syahmi

7 bolts + 2 threads

Bolted by: Lan

6 bolts + 1 thread

Bolted by: Lan

Bolted by: Kaloi

Bolted by: Roszaman

Bolted by: Roszaman

Bolted by: Roszaman

Bolted by: Roszaman

NH – When the route was first ascended, there was a skeleton of a dead monkey on top of the anchor.

Warning: The current state of the hangar and bolts are questionable due to long term exposure to waterway, a few of the bolts and hangars are partially rusted. Anchor has also been removed due to reason unknown. Climb at own risk.

Suggest to use the nearest anchor on the right to avoid rope drag if you really wants to try this route.

Bolted by Indonesian bolters from Bandung. Route extension: 2 more bolts added with complete anchor on 26/01/2020

Located at the most right of the riverside section. Climb up the ledge near the roof walkway and locate the bolts of the route.

7 bolt, 1 rope at tree= 8 clip

Grade based on estimation only.

All protection points using Thread

All the route listed after this one are located outside the cave. This is the wall you will see right after you cross the small bridge.

Do not climb!

11 bolts, 1 sling

share anchor with Bati Berjuntai.

share anchor with Ubi Karim.

Start to the right of the tufa (same start as "Space Invaders") then climb left and straight up the dihedral and tufa structures to the chain anchor.

Shares the starting bolt and 2nd bold with "The Joker" then climb left and up.

One of the easiest route at batman wall and often used as a top rope for beginners trying to get a feel for a hanging start. Cool moves and as usual the start is always tricky and will throw some people off. Not that easy to onsight but once u know all the moves it's a 30sec climb.

1. 20m (6a) Start at the rocky base up the large holds and slabs to a platform. Climb up the wall to the first belay station. To your left is an Abseil Point.

2. 20m (5c) Walk to the back wall, step over the crevice and traverse left past some bolts then climb up to a ledge then further up to the second belay station. To your right is another Abseil Point if you need to come dowm.

3. 20m (6a) Walk over the plateau towards the main summit till you reach the abyss. Jump over (Saxony jump grade S1) and scramble through the bushes to a wall. Climb past 2 bolts to the 3rd belay station (6a). Walk to the summit plateau.

Abseiling you have 3 options:

• 3 pitches down East Face, from the top out anchor near the edge,
• back down your last pitch into the abyss, then through to bushes to the Abseil Point near the 1st belay.
• find the Abseil point at the west, at 40m you need 2 ropes.

Mixed protection 4 bolts and 5 threads which are in a poor state (Sept 2023)

Lower off is the large chain visible from the ground. Suggest 6a+ as start is much harder than route to right.

Original guide had this route as Senjang Gila, but at some point was renamed to Sunday. Reverted to original name but no change in grade

Originally known as Sunday, but changed at some point to Senyang Gila. Reverted to original name with no change in grade

P1-Climbs between the tufas immediately left of 'Granular Spindrift', then heads slightly rightwards to the 'Monkey Line' belay; 5b 25m.

P2-Step left onto the wall, and either pass the stalactite on the left to gain a faint groove that leads back rightwards across the wall, or alternatively climb the rightside of the stalactite (clipping the bolt) and then straight up the wall. Gain a small cave with a pillar (thread) and then a second larger cave with larger pillar; cam and thread belay, 5c 25m.

P3- exit the cave on the right with a high thin thread through the stalactite veil. Use the stalacite to gain the wall above, good cam placements, then step left above the cave and continue straight up to the Good Onion belay. Clipping the first bolt on P3 'Good Onion' reduces rope drag; 6a 25m.

climb pass the route Lead Man's anchor and continue to higher anchor where the 2nd pitch start. climb the line straight up until you see arete where the bolt start to go left up. recommended to carry 2-3 alpine quickdraw for avoiding rope drag.

A real Chimera of a route - start up the old Unknown 7, continue straight up clipping the last bolt of Anchor or place nuts and small cams, then step left onto the steep cracked wall and go straight up using a couple of cams; at the final orangey/brown wall clip the bolt on the right (UnKnown 8) or place some nuts and cams, step onto the wall and fire straight up using either 2 bolts of Bengwali Pewai or placing large cams in the pockets. Lower off Bengwali Pewai

There is a poor thread beside the lower off point for Anchor which could be clipped, though there's a better bolt a little bit higher

The right hand most of the routes on the Left Wall. At present the routes are protected by several threads which are rotting(Sept 2023).

The route split into 2 half way, both way grade the same as 6a. Going left, try not to clip the anchor of Owl Face for the send. This is not a multipitch route.

Edit: This route has been rebolted as of 14/5/23

same anchor with Aimless

1 of the 3 routes that shares the same 1st bolt. 2nd bolt located on the left side then continue to go slightly left afterward till the end.

Anchor changed & updated on 9th Oct 2020, from sling anchor to stainless steel chain anchor by Nabilaa Mohamed

Left of Harry's Code, leading through reddish rock on constantly good holds. First of a series of easy routes that were bolted with the aim to offer a new climbing area to the KL climbing community.

Right exit variation of Bangsar Babes leading on top of the big ledge.