Starts 2m to the right of the And Justice for all crack, taking in the face all the way to the top. Follow the line of the bolts. Loose rock abounds. A serious proposition for a sport climb that is not reflected in the grade.
Starts right on the slab and traverses up and left to the crack, then up and over the obvious flake to the anchor. Since rockfall to the right opened the canopy the lower half of this climb is now overrun with vines.
1st pitch (6a/5.10b) up the left of the giant flake to the break, which marks the edge of the overhang. Traverse left and up the obvious crack, to run out an easy slab to the anchor. Has a bolt on the traverse and couple of bolts up the crack, if you don't trust placing your own protection.
2nd pitch (5a/5.8) runs up the arête and angles right up a series of cracks on a slab face to the anchor. Couple of football size loose rocks en-route so get the all-clear from below before moving up.
First bolt is quite high, can place 1 piece of natural pro to protect first move. Enjoy the rappel peg on the key hold of the crux. Second pitch is dirty. Quicklinks in the anchor bolts of the second pitch replaced on 29 Feb 2020.
Update 2018 - the rock forming the crack system for the Climb has collapsed, the route no longer exists.
This climb is the far right of the nose (the Facist section?).
Route starts 5m to the right of Tong Lou (East Tower) and utilises the same anchor. The route starts on a very moss covered slab, perpendicular to the main wall. The slab is hard, and can be circumvented by climbing the tree, the 6a grade includes use of the tree.
From the top of the slab the route heads RIGHT up the CRACK!
