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Routes in Melanesia for selected grade

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Showing all 8 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
South Pacific Descent Gully - Left Side
27 Mind Bender

The direct very thin line underneath BB. Stick clip high first bolt and good luck trying to clip the 2nd, if you get to the 3rd bolt it’s all over, finish up BB to top.

Set: Jason Lammers, 17 Jul 2020

FA: George Broadfoot, 15 Oct 2023

Sport 20m
South Pacific Underworld
27 Sail the 7 Seas

Great technical climbing up the wall to a chossy cave before the final layback crux. A Bargo test piece!

Set: nathanual hebbard & Fez, 2020

FA: George Broadfoot, 14 Sep 2023

Sport 15m
Telopea
27 Orchid Silence Direct

Punch out the boulder problem, reset at the ledge and remember to have fun.

FFA: GB

Sport 25m
Coral Sea The Church Shady Side - North Side The Balcony
27 Tahititian Thrust

Classic, Mega steep face climbing, maybe harder. Named after a funky sexual dance move and the hip thrust needed at the crux. 3m R of IB. Up the orange wall past the break and onto the beautiful orange headwall past some powerful boulder moves. 10 bolts, DRBB.

Sport 25m, 12
27 The Pacifier

Stumping hard crux, may be harder, Ben crushed it in before the baby came. 2m R of TN. Straight up the face to the break. Boulder the hard crux here through to the next thin break. Head slight L along this to the flake/corner almost in TM. Pull the overlap and move slightly R and then directly up the wall to finish at the anchors for TM. 9FHs, DRBB.

Sport 25m, 11
28 Monsters Among Men

Super thin, bring your crimp strength for this one, fantastic climbing. 3m R of TP. Up the initial wall to the break. Boulder onto and up the extremely thin grey wall, into a very fine seam and eventually joining up with TA at its 2nd last bolt where the jugs are.

Sport 25m, 12
AU:28 Black on Blue

The Link but great climbing - the Direct is still a closed project. Climb The Allfather for 4 bolts then traverse the pockets low L into the flake and the 5th bolt of the project line.

FA: Matt Brooks, 28 Jan

Sport 25m, 13
27 Open Project - the Cripple Nipple

Another 20m down the gully R of JP, Bridge of the back wall for a few moves to reach the bottom of the feature where you pull onto the wall. Straight up the cool featured rock to the mantle out R at the top. 5RBs DRBB

Sport 15m, 7

Showing all 8 routes.

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