Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Abbey Caves Wasp Town | |||||
V7 | ★★ The Brian Wasp Town Massacre
Right hand on a an edge under roof and the left on a good edge. Head straight up for the groove. FA: H Triebels, 2011 | 5m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Mangawhai Heads | |||||
V6/7 | The Seagull's Lunch
Up left face FA: Michael Welson, 2005 | ||||
V6/7 | ★ Salty Sea Spray
The face just to the left of super extra gravity. Start on two opposing side pulls, the left is good. Head up to the jug in the break then to the top via a small edge and some slopers. FA: Charlie Birch, 2023 | ||||
V7 | Skidbladnir
Up face right of middle seam FA: Michael Welson, 2005 | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Wairere Boulders The Forest Compaction Boulder | |||||
V7 | Y’all Right
Sit start from two rounded edges and move to jug via crimp. Wrestle the mantle. FA: Angus Crowley | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Te Tai Tokerau / Northland Wairere Boulders Minecraft | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Minecraft
Sit start matching on the lower left cube. Traverse the blocs to the right. All features on the rock are in, including the generous pocket near the start. Top out if you feel like wrestling a mossy scramble through the tree branches, or just finish on a jug. There are many opportunities for knee bars so some knee pads can be handy. | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Maungarei Springs Lakeside Wall | |||||
27 | ★★ Renegade
Climb the face just left of the arête. Technical face climbing on small crimps, arête is out. Place a cam in the horizontal break before the anchors for added protection at the final move. Set: Marco Lefebvre, 2018 FA: Marnus, 10 Nov 2021 | 8m, 2 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Long Side | |||||
27 | ★ Blam, Blam, Blam
Diagonally up the overhanging wall, into the peapod groove above and an easing exit. FA: Charlie Creese, 1981 | 13m | |||
27 | Faulty Logic
The wall with 2 bolts straight up from the start of Blam Blam Blam. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986 | 13m, 2 | |||
27 | ★★ Pig Igneous
A fantastic route combining a powerful bouldery bottom section with an extremely technical second half and an 'exciting' runout finish. Gear can be placed if wanted. FA: Ton Sneider, 1989 | 14m, 3 | |||
27 | Sweat
Start up Pig Igneous, but move right at the first bolt and climb the shallow groove above. FA: Dave Vass, 1981 | 15m, 1 | |||
28 | Down To Earth
The groove between Porkland and Maisola Party. Groundfall potential and stupid first bolt placement. FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 1992 | 14m, 1 | |||
28 | Plumley Walker
The arete. Painful holds, nasty plunge. FA: Tony Ward-Holmes, 1991 | ||||
27 | Zephania
| 8m | |||
27 | ★ Pet Cemetery
FA: Charlie Creese, 1981 | 12m, 2 | |||
27 | Straight Out Of Clapton
| 12m, 2 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Long Side Section 3 | |||||
V7 | ★ McNuggett
| ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Closed Mt. Eden Quarry Long Side Section 7 | |||||
V7 | Plumley Walker
| ||||
V7 | Hypercaffinated
| ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Stony Batter First Round Area Chunky Boulder | |||||
V7 | Jackass Sit Start
Sit start to Jackass FA: Glenn Erik Johannessen, 2007 | ||||
V7 | ★ Bohemian Pilsner
SDS on boulder. Small crimps. | 3m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Stony Batter Total Damage Area Sideshow Bob Boulder | |||||
V7 | ★★ Super Sloper Rockover
Start matched on sloper reach out left to rail and finish as for established V3? | 3m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Ti Point Southern Boulders Lulu Boulder | |||||
V7 | Lulu Lads
Start matched on the arête, a dynamic kick leads to tenuous climbing up the arête. FA: Daniel Scott, Nov 2019 | 4m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Ti Point Sam Bullock Wall | |||||
27 | ★★★ Man From Atlantis
Straight up past four bolts to belay on top of pinnacle. FA: Ton Snelder, 1992 | 20m, 4 | |||
27 | ★★★ Enter The Crux
Climb the first 2 bolts then traverse left to pick up the top 2 bolts of Man From Atlantis. Start requires more powerful moves than MFA but less technical so the grade probably stays the same. Climb the crack before stepping left to clip the 3rd bolt of MFA. The direct version is getting bolted and will be very hard!!! FA: Chris Hailey, 30 Sep 2020 | 18m, 4 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Tāmaki-makau-rau / Auckland Asquith Ave Kings Side The garage | |||||
V7 | ★★★ General boulder3 (Logbook)
| ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Coromandel Peninsula Maratoto No Fly Zone | |||||
26/27 | ★★ Save The Human Babies
Start up the ramp (clip the first bolt of "Pneumothorax" then climb through the over hanging face, easy climbing before and after the crux. Shares anchors with "The Odyssey" FA: Chris Hailey, 9 Oct 2022 | 25m, 9 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Coromandel Peninsula Maratoto Upper Tier | |||||
26/27 | ★★ The Great Skittles Tragedy of 2023
Climb "Taste The Rainbow" and keep going through a more challenging sequence of moves after the anchors at half height. Start right and traverse left into the first bolt, best to pre clip 1st and 2nd. A 70m rope should get you to the ground with rope stretch or have your belayer step right onto the ledges under "following the sun" Set: Chris Hailey, 1 Jun 2020 FA: Chris Hailey, 9 Jan 2023 | 38m, 15 | |||
27 | ★★ The Creature Within
Climb the scooped out corner then head through the bouldery moves in the overhang. Set: Chris Hailey, Jun 2022 FA: Chris Hailey, 1 Jul 2022 | 15m, 5 | |||
27 | ★★★ El Bon Wombat
Climb the steepness on small holds through funky moves, keep to the overhanging arete heading left through the overhang to pull through the roof (crux). After the overhanging terrain, weave through the top section with some air between the bolts to a double ring bolt anchor. Set: Chris Hailey, May 2022 FA: Chris Hailey, 4 Jun 2022 | 25m, 10 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Coromandel Peninsula Tairua Crag | |||||
26/27 | Boulderer's Day Off
Straight up from the anchors at the top of Are We Tramping Yet? to an anchor in the middle of Space Ape. FA: Edwin Sheppard, Feb 2019 | 12m, 4 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Lake Taupō Kawakawa Bay Jungle Wall | |||||
27 | King Louie Project
Open project. Let the crag vultures loose! The hard extension to Be Like You. Estimated grade 27/28. Set: Thomas Hermann, Mar 2022 | 22m, 8 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Lake Taupō Kawakawa Bay The Bluff The Lower Bluff | |||||
27 | ★ Foo Fighter
Up Aliens Resurrection until that route splits left. Head right up the overhung arete on some wild holds to gain the slab and anchor. FA: Dan Head, 2013 | 33m, 15 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Lake Taupō Kawakawa Bay The Bluff The Upper Bluff | |||||
27 | ★★★ Immaculate Conception
This steep line faces anyone willing to become immaculate. Tackles the roof section directly above the vertical wall. A small traverse right then left will lead you to another roof and over a lip to the anchors. FA: John Pellew, 2007 | 25m, 10 | |||
27 | ★ Morbid Visions
The direct line of Altar of Madness that cuts out the traverse. Shares the first and last two bolts. FA: Steven King, 2007 | 25m, 8 | |||
28 | Flogged to Death
Four bolts up to the ledge, then six more to the anchor. Quite hard to stop and clip around the second to last bolt. FA: Daniel Krippner, Oct 2020 | 22m, 10 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Lake Taupō Kawakawa Bay New Wave Wall | |||||
28 | Kung Fu Panda
1
28
30m
2
23
15m
Starts with 'New Wave' and heads up past there midway anchor. In the PDF guide its marked as two pitch route (28 30m, 23 15m). FA: David Hood & Dan Head, 23 Dec 2015 | 45m, 2 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Lake Taupō Kinloch Kinloch Bouldering The Hidden Boulder | |||||
V6/7 | ★★ Humpty Dumpty
Start with 3 points on the obvious rail feature low on the overhung face, then head up and right via a series of average edges, taking care to avoid dabbing on the rock behind. FA: Charlie Birch | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Lake Taupō Kinloch Whangamata Bay (K2) | |||||
27/28 | ★★ Monologue
Three boulders in a row with one involving a mono doigt to an easier finish. Climbs tothe same anchor as Tartarus. FA: John Palmer, 3 Dec 2020 | 25m | |||
27 | ★ Dog Star
Climb to the obvious sidepull feature. Move left into a series of underclings. Once over the bulge, follow the vague arete to a short roof then up to the Head Shot anchor. FA: John Palmer Set: Chris Hailey & Daniel Krippner | 30m, 9 | |||
28 | ★ Head Shot
Left of Chapel of Ghouls. Direct start, 3 bolts then into the crux. Easier climbing to the roof and through to the anchors. Watch out for rope drag in the roof, extend the roof draw if possible. Set: Dan Head FA: Henry Booker, 22 Nov 2020 | 30m, 13 | |||
26/27 | ★★★ Chapel of Roof
Climb the chapel of ghouls then at the roof head left to a pumpy and burly finish up to the anchors of dans project. Watch out for rope drag and extend the draws in the roof and just below. Adds difficulty and brilliant roof moves onto the original line. FA: Chris Hailey, 11 Oct 2020 | 25m, 11 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Lake Taupō Closed Motuoapa Christmas Crag | |||||
27 | Ninja Blow-out | 10m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Lake Taupō Closed Whanganui Bay Whekenui | |||||
27 | ★ Distortion
Just before you get to the Black Scorpion Area. Goes up the vertical wall before the top bulge. FA: Richard Bull, 1994 | 12m, 5 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Lake Taupō Closed Whanganui Bay The Plateau | |||||
27 | Even Dwarves Started Small
FA: Roland Foster, 1985 | 12m, 4 | |||
28 | ★★★ El Topo
"One of the best routes in NZ" FA: Roland Foster, 1984 | 25m, 4 | |||
27 | ★★★ Repulsion
The face right of El Topo FA: Roland Foster, 1984 | 25m, 3 | |||
27 | ★ Sex and Violence
Typical runout Roland Foster route. Starts up the slab before the headwall. Past the third bolt either fight to the anchor or go to Nothing's Shocking anchor. FA: Roland Foster, 1984 | 25m, 3 | |||
27 | ★ Jumping Jive
Climbs to the bulging face with a distinct crux. Climbed by a a hotshot Australian. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1986 | 15m, 3 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Lake Taupō Closed Whanganui Bay Mangakara Pacifica Wall | |||||
28 | ★★ The Lost Art of Keeping a Secret
Head up to the first bolt before traversing left, then up the middle of the bulging wall. Finishes up the tricky short arete. FA: John Palmer, 2013 | 25m, 9 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Waitomo District Frog Pond Main Cliff | |||||
27 | ★★ Flight of the Frogs
Start under the nose, stay right and head through the roof. Then head back laft through an easy mantle onto the slab. Finish as for SA (shares last bolt and anchor). FA: Daniel Krippner, 16 Jul 2014 | 16m, 6 | |||
27 | ★★ Cochise
Start left of BB and head through roofs. FA: Chris Hailey, 9 Feb 2020 | 16m, 6 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Waitomo District Closed Mangaokewa The Waterfall Area | |||||
27 | ★★★ Ahl-i-Najasa
FA: Ryan von Haeseley, 2009 | 18m, 7 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Waitomo District Closed Mangaokewa Wall of Teeth | |||||
27 | ★★★ The Art of War
Steep start with small holds leads to very small holds above. Fun start can be linked to Dirty Little Tripped Out Spaceship for an easier finish. Set: Kristen Foley FA: Kristen Foley, 2012 | 12m, 5 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Waitomo District Closed Mangaokewa Lower Lip Wall | |||||
28 | Master of My Own World
Direct start to Subterranean | 5m, 3 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Waitomo District Closed Mangaokewa The Colosseum | |||||
27 | ★★★ One for the Empire
| 20m, 8 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Waitomo District Closed Mangaokewa The Cheap Seats | |||||
27 | Yojimbo
FA: Ivan Vostinar | 5 | |||
28 | ★ Sanjuro
FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2008 | 8m, 3 | |||
27 | ★★ Ikarus
FA: Ivan Kostinar, 2009 | 11m, 6 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Waitomo District Closed Mangaokewa The Aviary | |||||
28 | Fly
FA: Ivan Vostinar, 2010 | 2 | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Waitomo District The Pond Thieving POM | |||||
V7 | ★★ Thieving POM
Sit start on the break and go straight up. FA: James Morris? | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★ Power of None
Right hand on positive jug, left low on arete. It's possible to bump the left hand higher, but you need a big span. Launch to the big rounded sloper or use the small crimp in the middle of the face. Finish straight up through the groove. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 26 Mar 2021 | 4m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Waitomo District The Pond Fins and Pinches | |||||
V7 | ★★ Ready to Launch
Starting on the crimps, climb the center of the face or do a large dyno into the horizontal crack, finish through the runnels directly above. FA: William | 4m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Waitomo District The Airstrip Highball Wall | |||||
V7 | ★★ Golden Shower Direct
Dynamic sit start from mono to sloped rail. Finish as per 'Golden Shower'. FA: Dave Rogers | 5m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Waitomo District The Airstrip The Greek Gods | |||||
V7 | 10. V7
| ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Waitomo District The Airstrip Totem Area | |||||
V6/7 | ★ Swing and a Miss Extension
Climb Swing and a Miss and continue traversing left on the low holds to finish with Trilogy. | 4m | |||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Waitomo District The Airstrip The Wave Wall | |||||
V7 | ★ Coriolis Force
Start left of Wave of Echoes with the left on a crimp and the right on a good side pull by your head. Pinch then throw to the ledge to finish up on the cracks. FA: Matt Lewis | ||||
Te Ika-a-Māui / The North Island Waikato Waitomo District The Airstrip Grot View Cave | |||||
V7 | More Approaching into Franks
Start deep in the cave (a.k.a. Deep start), climb the Approaching Insanity and finish with Frank's Better Half FA: Ashkan, 17 Sep 2023 | 6m | |||
V7 | ★★ Portable Puku
Start as for More Approaching Insanity, climb Power Puku to its finish, reverse Du Hast and finish with the Leon's Line Mantle. | 8m | |||
V7 | Perverse-alina Lite
Start as Approaching Insanity, climb the Power Puku and finish with Transverselina. This is easier version of Perverse-alina. FA: Chris Hailey, 26 Aug 2023 | 6m | |||
V7 | ★★ Approaching Into Frantic
Start as Approaching Insanity, continue the route on Frank's Better Half and finish as Frantic finish (i.e., jugs/cracks are eliminated). Hard 7. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 5 Feb 2023 | 7m | |||
V7/8 | ★★ Approaching Into Frankenstein
Start with Approaching Insanity and finish with Frankenstein. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 5 Feb 2023 | 7m | |||
V7 | ★★ A Taste of Bile
Sit or crouch start left of Du Hast with feet on the base rock.Out to the sloping V hold, a couple of moves on Du Hast and then clench tight for some tenuous moves through the corner. Feet high will get you across left to the break and all the way along as far as the rock goes. FA: John Newby | ||||
V7 | ★★ Deep Dirty Dancing Extension
Deep start in the cave, climb to the start of Dirty Dancing and finish as Dirty Dancing Extension Hard v7 FA: Ashkan, 30 Aug 2023 | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★ Dirty Dancing Start - Power Puku - Reverse Du Hast - Leon's Finish
Start with all four points on the start of Dirty Dancing, continue with Power Puku, reverse Du Hast to finish with the Leon's Line mantle. | 6m | |||
V7 | ★★ Inverselina
Start at 4 points go through power puku and finish up on Transverselina FA: Chris Hailey, 6 Aug 2023 | 8m | |||
V7 | ★★★ Franks Route
Start with two pinchy holds (two chalky holds in the first photo above) and throw your left heel to the top, find your way to the plate and finish via Franks Better Half. FA: Frank Enz | 8m | |||
V7 | ★★ Frank's Route Direct - Reverse Du Hast - Frank's Better Half
Climb Frank's Route to the shelf, reverse Du hast to the plate and finish with Frank's Better Half. | 7m | |||
V7 | ★★ Dirty Dirty Dancing
Start as for Frank's Route, reverse Power Puku and finish with Dirty Dancing. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 16 Apr 2022 | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★ Frantic Frank's Better Half
Start as for Frank's Better Half and finish with the remainder of Frantic. Might be harder than the grade. The final jug rail is out. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 5 Feb 2022 | 7m | |||
V7 | ★★ Frank's Scoops
Start as for Frank's Route, reverse Power Puku to the start of Frantic and head left through the smooth scoops to finish as for Leon's Line. The plate and Du Hast shelf are out. | 4m | |||
V6/7 | ★★ Reverselina
Start as per Franks route, reverse power puku, avoid the plate and head left, finish up Transverselina FA: Chris Hailey, 6 Aug 2023 | 6m | |||
V7 | ★★ Big Power Puku
Start as for More Approaching Insanity and finish with Power Puku. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 29 Jan 2022 | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★ Check Your Head
Start deep in the middle of the cave from a sit start with the left on a pinch/under cling pocket and the right on a the slopey chalked up hold in the roof. Press a foot on and find the knee bar for some powerful moves on the first tier holds to end at the Power Puku finish.https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Lea2BTJBqOU FA: Marco Lefebvre, 11 Aug 2022 | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★ Check Your Head into Maestro
Climb Check Your Head and finish with Maestro. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 29 Dec 2022 | 4m | |||
V7/8 | ★★ Check Your Head - Reverse Du Hast - Leon's Finish
Climb Check Your Head, Reverse Du Hast and finish with the Leon's Line mantle. | 5m | |||
V7 | ★ Check Your Head into Dirty Dancing
Climb the first half of Check Your Head, reverse Power Puku and finish with all four points on the start of Dirty Dancing. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 4 Dec 2022 | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★ Check Your Head Direct - Frank's Better Half
FA: Marco Lefebvre, 11 Feb 2023 | 7m | |||
V7 | ★★ Check Your Head Direct - Transversalina
Climb Check Your Head directly to the plate and reverse Du Hast to finish with Transverselina. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfqTghZabbc&ab_channel=MarcoLefebvre FA: Marco Lefebvre, 20 Sep 2023 | ||||
V7 | ★★ Check Your Transverselina
Climb Check Your Head and finish with Transverselina. On the hard end of V7. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-TVQG2Y2ays&ab_channel=MarcoLefebvre FA: Marco Lefebvre, 25 Aug 2023 | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★ Power Puku Link-Up
Power Puku into Standing Ovation. FA: Steve Conn | ||||
V7 | ★★★ Leon's Line
Start as for Frank's Route but continue straight thru the roof. Some big moves to bad holds will get you to jugs on the nose. Mantle the nose and drop off. The entire jug shelf and plate of Du Hast have been eliminated. beta: https://youtu.be/0_HPwpV2SCs FA: Marco Lefebvre, 2 Jan 2020 | 5m | |||
V7/8 | ★ Power Puku into Leon's Line
Climb Power Puku and finish with Leon's Line. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 3 Mar 2020 | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★ Power Puku into Maestro
Climb the Power Poku and finish with the Maestro. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 1 Jan 2020 | 5m | |||
V7/8 | ★★ Cave Jam
Start as for More Approaching Insanity, climb Power Puku and finish with Maestro. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 10 Nov 2022 | 5m | |||
V6/7 | ★★ Dirty Power Puku
Start with all four points on the start of Dirty Dancing. A big iron cross will get you into the start of Power Puku. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 1 Jan 2020 | 5m | |||
V7 | ★★ Dirty Power Poku into Maestro
Start at four points of Dirty Dancing, climb the Power Puku and finish up at Maestro. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 1 Jan 2020 | 5m | |||
V7/8 | ★★ Sid Vicious
Start with all four points on the start of Dirty Dancing, traverse into and climb Approaching Insanity and finish with Frank's Better Half and the second half of Frantic. https://youtu.be/ICVmxY_uNbk FA: Marco Lefebvre, 24 Jul 2022 | 8m | |||
V7 | ★★ Sid Vicious Lite
Start with all four points on the start of Dirty Dancing, traverse into and climb Approaching Insanity and finish with Frank's Better Half. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 31 Jan 2021 | 8m | |||
V6/7 | ★★ Crimps into Power Puku
Start on two small side by side crimps down and left of the start for Power Puku. FA: Marco Lefebvre, 1 Jan 2020 | 5m |