Ascents in Oceania

This, as a single pitch, is one of the best pitches of climbing in the multiverse. This should NEVER be broken up into two pitches: why spoil a perfect pitch? I would have chopped the superfluous midway anchors during my onsight free solo but I forgot to bring my crowbar that day.

Good and sustained

2 or 3 cruxy moves, one blind dyno makes this one a really good line

Converted into a sports climb by top soloing (2 sessions) to figure out every inch(move and gear).

The climb can be divided into the following sections:

1. The silicon dump: First 8 meters of complete shit. I support the setting up of a gofundme page to gather the $ to have rungs installed.

2. Jenny Craig's endless warmup: Next 20m until the little rooflet. Pretty good climbing to get the blood following for what's about to come. This section does have one hard exit move which involves 'mingin'. The section name is inspired by Jenny Craig's Endless Pitch in Moonaire, if you are into face climbing trad routes (which Grasshopper falls in the category of) Jenny Craig has you covered out in the big red.

3. Darn Tootin pulling: The crux of the route following the little roof. I speak for the sages that have come off here in the past: Sort your gear out, "Bloody darn tootin". Sort your feet out, "Frickin darn tootin". If (!sorted) { You are going to come off, "Goddamn darn tootin"; }

4. Michael Law's techy moves section: If you have seen the photos then you know. Technical face interspersed with good rests to place gear. Style points if you twist lock like in one of the photos.

5. The cave of timiditas: Rest up, place some good small wires (recommended: make a nest), tictactoe on your feet and snatch the jug like a Grasshopper hopping.

PS When you topout remember this mind blowing fact, "A grasshopper can jump 30 inches. If you could jump that many times your body length, you could cover an entire football field in a single bound."

PSS Blessed and truly brave are thee who go ground up on this stuff.

Got dark when I got to the top, I'll go back and send in the light next time. Start sequence is more powerful with limited feet but decent holds. Top sequence is 3 clips of thin delicate slab. Once you find the crimps it's doable, but can be a little hard to find since it seems this climb had been less popular lately and no noticeable chalk marks.

oh gawd 😄

Longer and more pumpy than tuscan. Great line deserves more people on it.

Belle voie, aérienne, pas de grande difficulté un pas de bloc au début et ensuite juste la conti. Pas mal de tirage.

Shit shit shit I’m so scared

I’ve tred this clean a billion times now but I have to run out the low crux because it’s too pumpy to place gear until I get to the first rest . God damn. Trad climbing is so scary

Getting ready to lead something is actually scarier than the fricken lead itself

Also after years of trashing people for wearing gloves, I have to wear proper rubber aid jammies for this as it feels like my skin is tearing apart. Crap

Pieced this one together in a single session thanks to a lot of sage advice from Coach Phil. Technique and micro adjustments made a huge difference. A fun dyno!

Feeling pretty confident for when everything line's up perfectly. Need to be more consistent if I want to actually do it. Mental more than physical at this point. I feel like I've 'learned' how to fall on the crux because I've done it so much

Classic compression