Ascents in Polynesia

6b+ part is super B!

Eine sehr ungewöhnliche Route. Felskontakt hat man fast überhaupt nicht. Es hängen Taue und die angeblichen zwei Haken an der Schlüsselstelle hab ich nicht gefunden. Dafür sind am Ende zwei. Von dort führt ein Tau nach rechts auf einen Absatz. Von dort hat man eine wunderschöne Aussicht wegen der alleine sich die Tour lohnt. Im Projekt habe ich keine Haken gesehen. Zustieg zur Tour ist ebenfalls mit Tauen versehen, frisch ausgeschlagen und trotzdem schwer zu finden. Absteigen kann man auch nach Süden durch dichten Regenwald über einen kleinen ausgesetzten Pfad. Alles sehr abenteuerlich.

Nice route in a beautiful location. High tide so unfortunately couldn't make it via the coast and Olu crag. Usual Eua mission: Tried to hire a car but the shop had lost the key. Luckily a random guy at the shop with a truck offered us a lift. We were driven out as far as we could get on very rough 4x4 tracks. Then walked through plantation and jungle for around an hour to the archway. Climbed the route then snorkeled on the spectacular beach. Met some friendly locals who were basket weaving and showed us a slightly quicker path back, just opposite the blue lagoon. They got out there by horse! Very thankful to see the truck back at the agreed meeting point at our arranged time. Another Eua adventure...

Rushed ascent in a 3 after getting to the crag the long way around via the beach. Some pitching and some moving together. Overall an amazing adventure, but we were limited with time so had to rush through the easy stuff and get out for a pre-arranged pick up.

The first pitch is a very nice climb. I was a bit tired after three days of hiking around Eua to various crags, so made use of the plentiful rests We didn't climb the second pitch because we weren't doing any multi-pitch this trip.

Warm up

Follow the crack/flake arete, with jugs all around. Really nice climb

Sort of a boulder-y start but super easy with grippy jugs. Goes left onto the face and then traverse right. Nice ledges to rest on along the way. If you don't have a nice jug, just keep moving and you will find one

Easy fun flake at the start, followed by slight overhang sustained to anchors (past the tree branch brushing the rock). There is a full body jam just before the pumpy part for a hands-free rest and plenty of juggy pockets though. A bit slopey pulling up to anchor but hidden pockets. Beautiful long, fun climb! ♡

I was a bit too scared at the start with the sharp overhung rock above more sharp rock - really afraid to fall! After that, with a nice rest in a cave ledge, a smooth jug traverse to a crack and stem, followed by fun crimp slab with a hidden jug by the tree jutting out from the rock, and then easy as to finish in a HUGE cave at the anchor!