Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | |||
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Tue 8th Oct 2019 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Anokula Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★ Purple Pincer Pocket Puller | 52m | |||||
Thu 25th Jul 2019 - Eua | |||||||
Northwestern Beach crags Houma-Tahi Arch | |||||||
14 | ★★ Faka'ofa'ofa - with Harriet | 17m, 7 | |||||
Nice route in a beautiful location. High tide so unfortunately couldn't make it via the coast and Olu crag. Usual Eua mission: Tried to hire a car but the shop had lost the key. Luckily a random guy at the shop with a truck offered us a lift. We were driven out as far as we could get on very rough 4x4 tracks. Then walked through plantation and jungle for around an hour to the archway. Climbed the route then snorkeled on the spectacular beach. Met some friendly locals who were basket weaving and showed us a slightly quicker path back, just opposite the blue lagoon. They got out there by horse! Very thankful to see the truck back at the agreed meeting point at our arranged time. Another Eua adventure...
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Tue 23rd Jul 2019 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Descent Gully wall | |||||||
15 | ★ Descent Gully - with Harriet, Peter | 40m, 8 | |||||
Rushed ascent in a 3 after getting to the crag the long way around via the beach. Some pitching and some moving together. Overall an amazing adventure, but we were limited with time so had to rush through the easy stuff and get out for a pre-arranged pick up.
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Tue 23rd Jul 2019 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Whale Wall | |||||||
17 | ★ Pepe el Loco - with Hattie | 20m | |||||
16 | ★★ Whale Access Pitch - with Hattie | 7m, 4 | |||||
16 | ★ Beginners Wail - with Hattie | 20m, 7 | |||||
Mon 15th Jul 2019 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Whale Wall | |||||||
19 |
★★ Thirty Four (years)
- with
Alex Popinga
1
19
23m
| 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The first pitch is a very nice climb. I was a bit tired after three days of hiking around Eua to various crags, so made use of the plentiful rests We didn't climb the second pitch because we weren't doing any multi-pitch this trip.
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Mon 15th Jul 2019 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Anokula Wall | |||||||
18 |
★★ Purple Pincer Pocket Puller (Purple Pincer Pocket Puller P1)
- with
Alex Popinga
1
18
27m
| 27m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 15th Jul 2019 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Whale Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Beginners Wail - with Alex Popinga | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Warm up
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16 | ★ Beginners Wail - with Alexei Drummond | 20m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Follow the crack/flake arete, with jugs all around. Really nice climb
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19 |
★★ Thirty Four (years) (Thirty Four (years) P1)
- with
Alexei Drummond
| 23m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Sort of a boulder-y start but super easy with grippy jugs. Goes left onto the face and then traverse right. Nice ledges to rest on along the way. If you don't have a nice jug, just keep moving and you will find one
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Mon 15th Jul 2019 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Anokula Wall | |||||||
18 |
★★ Purple Pincer Pocket Puller (Purple Pincer Pocket Puller P1)
- with
Alexei Drummond
| 27m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Easy fun flake at the start, followed by slight overhang sustained to anchors (past the tree branch brushing the rock). There is a full body jam just before the pumpy part for a hands-free rest and plenty of juggy pockets though. A bit slopey pulling up to anchor but hidden pockets. Beautiful long, fun climb! ♡
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Sun 14th Jul 2019 - Eua | |||||||
Northwestern Beach crags Olu sea cliff | |||||||
19 | ★★ the Muppet Show - with Alexei Drummond | 29m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
I was a bit too scared at the start with the sharp overhung rock above more sharp rock - really afraid to fall! After that, with a nice rest in a cave ledge, a smooth jug traverse to a crack and stem, followed by fun crimp slab with a hidden jug by the tree jutting out from the rock, and then easy as to finish in a HUGE cave at the anchor!
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Sun 14th Jul 2019 - Eua | |||||||
Northwestern Beach crags Houma-Tahi Arch | |||||||
14 | ★★ Faka'ofa'ofa - with Alexei Drummond | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Beautiful arete with arch as a backdrop, easy nice moves trending slightly left to the anchor
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Sun 14th Jul 2019 - Eua | |||||||
Northwestern Beach crags Olu sea cliff | |||||||
19 | ★★ the Muppet Show - with Alex Popinga | 29m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Great climb but the rope drag on the upper slab was horrendous. Wonderful location, if slightly intimidating on first arrival. About 29-30 metres according to our 60m rope
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Sun 14th Jul 2019 - Eua | |||||||
Northwestern Beach crags Houma-Tahi Arch | |||||||
14 | ★★ Faka'ofa'ofa - with Alex Popinga | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Beautiful location for a climb but we were a bit rushed given it was late afternoon and it takes a good hour to get back to a reasonable parking spot
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Sat 13th Jul 2019 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Whale Wall | |||||||
18 |
★★ Tavake (Tavake P1)
- with
Alex Popinga
| 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First introduction to 'Eua climbing. Nice climbing to the right after access pitch. Nice to have an overhang feel so easy because of great holds and rests
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16 | ★★ Whale Access Pitch - with Alex Popinga | 7m, 4 | ★ Good | ||||
'Eua climbing! Nice cave and view from the anchors at the top of this one.
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16 | ★★ Whale Access Pitch - with Alexei Drummond | 7m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fun little route up a squeeze chimney if you want and onto a nice juggy arete to a grassy ledge with a big cave and lovely sea view just before the anchor
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18 |
★★ Tavake
- with
Alexei Drummond
| 23m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Sun 16th Jun 2019 - Eua | |||||||
the Lost Walls the Lost Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★★ Forbidden Fruit - with greg jack, Jean Jack | 80m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
didn't climb the access pitch, one hang on Gregs 2nd pitch, but climbed my alternate via "Original Sin". First lead of tree of knowledge pitch, not really onsight as I bolted it. And followed Exodus pitch clean even with heavy backpack. Not a gimmee.
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Fri 14th Jun 2019 - Eua | |||||||
the Lost Walls the Lost Wall | |||||||
24 | ★★ Original Sin - with greg jack | 30m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
tricky turning the corner at the 3rd bolt and getting onto the face/tufa. then sustained finicky face climbing till the traverse and jug at bolt 6. Not as good quality as Gregs 2nd pitch of Forbidden Fruit, and didn't turn out to be easier.
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Thu 13th Jun 2019 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Anokula Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★ Blind Faith - with Jean Jack | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
First pitch interesting path moving left across the blind part. Second pitch tough onsight finding the best holds and clipping the DBB
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Tue 11th Jun 2019 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Fa Wall | |||||||
17 | ★★ Blade Runner - with greg jack | 35m, 13 | ★ Good | ||||
long and varied, goes to Cosmos anchors. Could use a separate lower anchor for direct toproping and cleaning, above current midway anchor, but in alcove right above line.
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Fri 7th Jun 2019 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Fa Wall | |||||||
18 19 | Tricerabolts - with greg jack | 20m | Average | ||||
just lots of jugs through moderate terrain
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19 | ★ The Fa Tufa - with greg jack | 18m, 6 | Average | ||||
toproped direct line into third bolt at about 20. And possibly easier line staying left until about bolt 5 at <18. otherwise, a good feature.
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21 | ★ Lobster Claws - with greg jack | ★ Good | |||||
sharp, but crisp, not too hard actually
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23 22 | ★★ Rubiks Pocket Pulling Puzzle - with greg jack | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
climbing right of second bolt makes it easier, but still challenging through low crux, and hanging on up top.
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22 20 | Seasick Sailors - with greg jack | Average | |||||
quality of rock seems mungy/wet. hard long moves at start and bolting a bit high on first bolt, hard to clip 3rd.
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Mon 3rd Jun 2019 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Whale Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Great Expectations | ★★★ Classic | |||||
23 | ★★ Breached As Bro | 50m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
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Sat 1st Jun 2019 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Whale Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★ Tafu'a'a Puna | 30m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Climbed using jugs on arete right of bolts, otherwise it would be more full on through the middle part. Starts with some jugs up past the first bolt, but in your face immediately to the second, which is a bit high. cruxy to the third bolt, but plenty of pump remaining for the top half of the first pitch. Didn't do the second pitch
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Wed 7th Nov 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Mânava Wall | |||||||
19 | ★ 96 Degrees in the Shade - with Violetta Znorkowski | 34m | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 7th Nov 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Anokula Wall | |||||||
18 20 | ★ Lei Kina (Kina) - with Violetta Znorkowski | 28m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
Mon 5th Nov 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Fa Wall | |||||||
19 | ★ Ferry to 'Eua - with Violetta Znorkowski | 17m | ★ Good | ||||
18 | ★ Fa Starter - with Violetta Znorkowski | 39m | ★ Good | ||||
19 | ★ Undone - with Violetta Znorkowski | ★ Good | |||||
Sat 3rd Nov 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Descent Gully wall | |||||||
15 | ★ Descent Gully - with Violetta Znorkowski | 40m, 8 | Average | ||||
Thu 1st Nov 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Lovely Wall | |||||||
16 | Pepe's Jungle Jam - with Stu Goo | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Thu 1st Nov 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Fa Wall | |||||||
19 | ★ The Fa Tufa - with Violetta Znorkowski | 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Thu 1st Nov 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Lovely Wall | |||||||
16 | Pepe's Jungle Jam - with Violetta Znorkowski | 18m, 7 | Average | ||||
20 | ★ Flower Power - with Violetta Znorkowski | 10m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Wed 31st Oct 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Whale Wall | |||||||
18 | ★ Blowhard - with Stu Goo | 37m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
17 20 | ★ Marina la Linda - with Stu Goo | 19m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
17 20 | ★ Marina la Linda - with Violetta Znorkowski | 19m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
18 |
★ Blowhard
- with
Violetta Znorkowski
1
| 37m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Mon 29th Oct 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Ni'a Wall | |||||||
18 | ★★ A Niu World - with Stu Goo | 20m, 11 | Average | ||||
Sandbag of a climb. I reckon the first assessment of this route is more accurate. Arguably around a grade 20/21, not 18.
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18 | ★★ A Niu World - with Violetta Znorkowski | 20m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Fri 26th Oct 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Whale Wall | |||||||
16 | ★ Beginners Wail (?) | 20m, 7 | Average | ||||
17 | ★ Pepe el Loco | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
16 | ★ Beginners Wail (?) - with Violetta Znorkowski | 20m, 7 | Average | ||||
17 | ★ Pepe el Loco - with Violetta Znorkowski | 20m | ★ Good | ||||
Mon 15th Oct 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Northwestern Beach crags Olu sea cliff | |||||||
22 | ★★ Kontiki - with greg jack | 35m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
A great line with plentiful tufa and flowstone holds up the consistently overhung top half. The bottom half is of lower quality and basically just serves as access.
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Mon 15th Oct 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Laku Fa'anga Bowl of Cliffs Bikini Bottom | |||||||
24 | ★★ Nautical Nonsense - with greg jack | 60m, 35 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
The waves were crashing and the wind howling, but we got it done. Top pitch still needs some cleaning
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Sat 13th Oct 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Mânava Wall | |||||||
21 20 | ★ Generosity - with greg jack | 38m | Average | ||||
Bolting choices detract from the climbing. first bolt too low, ledge fall potential mid route, awkward position for 1st anchor, Good stone on second pitch is a saving grace. Did not climb the 3rd pitch.
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Sat 6th Oct 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Anokula Wall | |||||||
18 20 | ★ Lei Kina (Dirty Dagger) - with greg jack | 28m, 8 | ★ Good | ||||
straightforward climbing up the right side of the feature with some possibly reachy moves among the first few bolts. The face climbing mid-way up was thoughtful and leads into the black groove at the top which is dirty but reasonable. Nice ledge for bringing up the second, but bolted well for toproping with a 60m.
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Sat 1st Sep 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Ni'a Wall | |||||||
18 | FA ★★ A Niu World - with Nick Roach | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
FFA. Thanks to Nick for giving me a chance for the FFA of this route! (Also my first FFA). Named after Niu from Ovava Lodge.
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18 | ★★ A Niu World | 20m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
22 | ★★ A Tufa Too Far | 20m, 9 | |||||
Fri 31st Aug 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Lovely Wall | |||||||
22 | ★ Flower Power - with Nick Roach | 10m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Hard!
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22 | ★ Flower Power - with Nick Roach | 10m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
Hard!
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20 22 | ★ Lovely Day - with Nick Roach | 10m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Really cool line through the roof, then finish on big jugs. If the black lichen cleans up, would give three stars.
Thought it was easier than Flower Power. |
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Fri 31st Aug 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Fa Wall | |||||||
23 | ★★★ Wear Clothes (Clothing Optional) - with Nick Roach | 35m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
Thin and sustained. Quality face climbing on sharp limestone.
Seconded Nick on his FFA, but I didn't quite get it out clean myself. Reckon one more shot. Solid for the grade. |
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18 | ★ Fa Starter | ★ Good | |||||
22 | ★★ Rubiks Pocket Pulling Puzzle | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Fri 24th Aug 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Mânava Wall | |||||||
19 | ★ 96 Degrees in the Shade - with Nick Roach | 34m | ★ Good | ||||
Cool features nice rooflet
Good bolting thanks for clearing some of the sharp rock
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Fri 10th Aug 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Fa Wall | |||||||
21 | ★ Lobster Claws | ||||||
19 | ★ Undone | ||||||
22 | ★★ Rubiks Pocket Pulling Puzzle | 20m, 7 | |||||
23 | ★★ Maelstrom | 18m, 7 | |||||
19 | ★ The Fa Tufa | 18m, 6 | |||||
Fri 10th Aug 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Anokula Wall | |||||||
Left in Jail (??) | Average | ||||||
23 | ★★ Blind Faith | 40m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
22 | ★★ Purple Pincer Pocket Puller | 52m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
25 | ★ The White Shield | 55m | ★ Good | ||||
Fri 10th Aug 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Whale Wall | |||||||
19 | ★★ Thirty Four (years) (Thirty Four) | 40m | ★ Good | ||||
18 | ★ Blowhard | 37m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
19 | ★ On Some Far Away Beach | 37m | ★ Good | ||||
21 | ★★ Tavake (Tala) | 43m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
23 | ★★ Breached As Bro | 50m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
20 19/20 | ★★ Three Boys | 42m, 6 | ★ Good | ||||
22 | ★★ Tafu'a'a Puna | 30m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | ||||
21 | ★★★ Great Expectations | ★★★ Classic | |||||
Thu 2nd Aug 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Lovely Wall | |||||||
16 | Pepe's Jungle Jam | 18m, 7 | Average | ||||
Thu 2nd Aug 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Fa Wall | |||||||
19 | ★ Undone (?) | Average | |||||
19 | Tricerabolts | 20m | Average | ||||
21 | Ferry to 'Eua Direct Start | ||||||
19 | ★ Ferry to 'Eua | 17m | |||||
21 | ★ Lobster Claws (??) | ★ Good | |||||
Quite tricky and fun. Forced to onsight because my climbing partner Dave did it before me!
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22 23 | ★★ Maelstrom | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | ||||
Sharp the bottom, gets tricky higher up
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19 | ★ The Fa Tufa | 18m, 6 | Average | ||||
20 | Seasick Sailors | ||||||
Wed 1st Aug 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Whale Wall | |||||||
21 | ★★★ Great Expectations | ||||||
20 19/20 | ★★ Three Boys | 42m, 6 | |||||
Wed 1st Aug 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Fa Wall | |||||||
22 | ★★ Gita | 17m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
18 | ★★★ Cosmos | 40m | ★★★ Classic | ||||
This route is awesome - worth bringing your rack for! Lots of bomber gear. Not too easy, not too hard. Rock quality is great
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Tue 31st Jul 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Anokula Wall | |||||||
25 | ★ The White Shield - with Nick Roach | 55m | ★★ Very Good | ||||
Can run p1 and p2 together. P2 is great definitely not 21 is easier then purple pocket pincer puller, jugs. Cheers bolters. Did not do P3.
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Tue 31st Jul 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Lovely Wall | |||||||
16 | Pepe's Jungle Jam - with Nick Roach | 18m, 7 | |||||
A nice easy addition to the area.
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Tue 31st Jul 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Ni'a Wall | |||||||
21 | Wherever You Are | 20m, 9 | |||||
Tue 31st Jul 2018 - Eua | |||||||
Fangatave Beach Mânava Wall | |||||||
21 20 | ★ Generosity | 38m | ★ Good | ||||
Very nicely bolted. Pitches can be run together without unacceptable rope drag
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