Routes in Mallorca for selected grade

Comienzo difícil.

Hard start.

Same start as Vampiresa, but straight up through the crimpy upper part instead of going left.

Nice tricky line on the right end of the wall. Technical climbing on crimps, not easy to read.

Buena técnica y escalada de pared de dedos. Comience en un pedestal pequeño, suba la pared pasando a la derecha de una gota de toba hasta un desnivel, luego de nuevo con los dedos para llegar a un final malabarista.

Good technical and fingery wall climb. Start on a small pedestral, climb the wall passing right of a tufa blob to an undercling, then again fingery to reach a juggy finish.

Hay quien la considera 6a+.

6a+ in 2020 Rockfax.

6a in 2020 Rockfax.

6a+ in 2020 Rockfax.

Second pitch to "Pinchito moruno", "El ultimo de la fila" and "Calentura invernal".

La línea izquierda 100m a la izquierda de la pared principal.

The left line 100m left of the main wall.

La línea derecha 100m a la izquierda de la pared principal.

The right line 100m left of the main wall.

Some delicate moves over a crack to a vertical bouldery finish.

Interesting climb, quite different to the rest of the crag. Short wall to good rest, then commit to the layback crack above.

Right-hand side of the corner then up the slabs and bulge above.

Second line of FH from left.

1. 22m, 8 bolts

2. 13m, ? bolts

Powerful through the left cave structures with a short tricky sequence to cross the blank part before.

New silvern bolts between "Vol de Nuit" and "Tía Melis".

Pitch 1 same as "The Master"

Long technical slab on small ledges without distinct crux. Bolts are a bit spaced.

Excellent climbing directly left of the Gubia elephant. Easy up the initial wall and tufas, then an interesting start to and through the roof as well as a hard move past it. The first bolt in the roof is a bit awkward to clip.

P1: Vertical wall / rip combination with a difficult section in the middle.

P2: Easy groove and vegetated jugs.

P3: Bizarre washed-out and slick rock curtains. Don't miss the lower-off a bit right around a corner.

Old okayish bolts, but not the anchor. Use the anchor of the right route!

Article.

up the chimney, first pitch bolted

Comienzo duro, luego jarrones. Tornillos nuevos.

Catalogado como "Cuatre Dents" 5c en la guía de 2009, definitivamente bolsa de arena para este grado...

Hard start, then jugs. New bolts.

Listed as "Cuatre Dents" 5c in 2009 guidebook, definitely sandbag for this grade...

Rockfax 2020 6a.

Se dice que es la ruta más larga del sector.

Said to be the longest route on the crag.

Muro a la derecha del barranco hasta una fina fisura / diedro en la parte superior. Parece más fácil de lo que es. Interesante escalada de principio a fin. Inicie una grieta corta y luego lleve la pared de dedos hasta debajo de una esquina. Termine la esquina a través de algunos atascos y puentes.

Wall right of the gully to a thin crack / dihedral on top. Looks easier than it is. Interesting climbing from start to finish. Start up a short crack and then take the fingery wall to below a corner. Finish up the corner via some jamming and bridging.

Empieza usando algunos agujeros grandes hasta llegar al crux, hacia la izquierda en pequeñas regletas. La sección final vuelve a ser más fácil.

Up using some big holes to a cruxy move left on small crimps into the again easier final section.