Routes in Cardiff and Newport crags for selected grade

In the car park pretty much opposite the bench is a wall with an obvious ramp feature. left of the ramp sit start and gain obvious pinch and either fire or gain a intermediate topout

P1. Scramble up any of the various rock faces of your choice with little protection. Cross the choss to below the right hand cracks in the upper wall by an historic quarry spike ( just left). A belay can be set here, 6m (?) right of the stance bolt on Perfumed Punch ( 10m). P2. Climb through the weakest point selecting the only few secure holds ( small wires in the ‘good’ crack hard to place) amongst some big loose risky stuff and pull with difficulty onto a good ledge. Two good cracks now house good wires. Climb anywhere here to the top on small holds by the crack with caution ( 10m) to a tough pullout and scramble broken ground to a spike and wires belay.

Climb the prominent groove. Swing left near the top, to finish up the left arête. It is also possible to finish direct at a slightly harder grade.

Climb a leftward rising crack/corner line below and right of the overhangs to a ledge beneath a steep wall. Traverse left past a crack above and climb the bulging wall to a chimney. Climb the chimney, step left along the lip of the overhang. Continue up left to a crack which is followed to a pinnacle. The climb finishes up a short chimney on the right side of the three overhangs