Routes in South Wales for selected grade

Climb up past some pockets and a little left.

Follow the crack away from the arete.

Once again starting on the diagonal crack then up the small cracks.

Climb up the blank slab to the rectangular legde. Carry on up small cracks until the large triangular crack and the then top out.

Can also be easily escaped at the end of P1.

Only accessible at low tide. Worthwhile seeking out if for no other reason than to get a different perspective on the rest of St Govan's East. Start at the obvious ledge below the wide crack. Follow the rightward trending line up the slab taking care with the top out.

P3: As for 'Diedre Sud' P2

Start at the prominent leftward slanting groove system towards the right hand end of the face. Follow the groove to the overhangs at their widest point, PRs. Traverse right to pull over the overhang at its weakest point and gain the top.

Start well to the right of Sugar, where the concave strata meets the ground. Climb the shallow yellow groove and then move rightwards into the groove above.

Climb the cracked wall just right of 50 Franc Menu.

Gain the groove of South Wall as for Finnmark, but continue as for South Wall itself.

Might be worth a star if it was trundled at the start. Start at the right edge of the ledge running across the start of the wall proper. Make a leftward-rising traverse to reach the corner crack and follow this to a ledge. Finish through the small overlap above the groove.

From the base of the smooth grey slab, climb up to and over a bulge onto highly textured rock. Bear steeply rightwards to finish at the top of an unclimbed left-to-right gangway.

Start below a break in the left-hand side of the overhang, beneath the white slab. Pull through the overhang to a break. Climb straight up the slab to slot slightly to the left. Take the crack and the rib above and step right into the niche.

Pull up and left through the right-hand end of the overhang, then climb straight up to the niche.

Towards the right side of the slab are twin cracks. Climb easily to gain the blind left-hand crack. This leads to a flake crack, which is followed leftwards to the niche.

The obvious corner in the wall at the west end of the cliff and climb the corner.

The chimney at the back of the zawn, finishing behind the chockstone

The obvious ramp running up rightwards from the base of Liberty.

Good, slightly bold climbing on the P1, is a little spoiled by the P2, which is nothing more than a few metres of independent climbing used to reach the top of Assassin.

1. 24m, 4c. Start at the left side of the crag, below a crack in the slab 5m left of the prominent niche of Killer's Route. Climb the crack, then curve rightwards on discontinuous cracks below the overlap to gain the Junction Stance, 4m below the main overhangs, PB.

2. 24m, 4c. Traverse right, bearing upwards, keeping about 2m below under the overlaps, to reach a more open area of rock. Finish diagonally right up these cracks (Assassin).

Formally known as Hitman from a 1977 ascent, but now recognised that this line was climbed before 1970 by SUMC members. The start is obvious, from below the easily identifiable wedged block to the right of Assassin. Climb up left of the block, then move onto it via a hard move on small but positive foot holds. The crack slightly left is then followed steeply but with good holds and protection. Once you join the diagonal crack of Dry Riser it is very easy to go off route. The line actually crosses the steep wall immediately up and to your right. This looks hard but if you commit you will find really positive holds which quickly move you into another crack and the finish.

Start 2m right of Trevor, The Pint and The Pram and climb a rightwards slanting crack to the upper traverse line (Dry Riser) and a niche. Finish up the right-hand of the two shallow cracked grooves.

Start at a small recess below a vague right-slanting groove 5m right of Hitman. Follow the groove rightwards to gain the upper traverse line (Dry Riser), then finish up the tricky groove above.

Climb the crack between On The Horizon and Socialist Worker, to join the former at 10m.

It keeps going left. Start at a shallow triangular black-stained scoop about halfway between the starts of the two diagonal traverse lines. Climb to the upper traverse line (Dry Riser), step left and climb the tricky groove as for Task Force. It is possible to climb 1m right at about the same grade.

A girdle taking the higher of the two diagonal cracks. Start at the right side of the cliff where the crack meets the ground.

1. 36m, 4c. Climb the crack to below the main overhangs. Traverse 6m left to The Junction Stance.

2. 31m, 4c. Traverse left for 7m and break through the overlap, just left of a tiny corner. Continue up and left to easy ground.