Ascents in World by Michael Tanner having trad-cpr or ascent-date

Hard sport climbing par excellence. They simply do not get better. 12 days work since the middle of August. Definitely a sandbag, I’d give it hard 29 to the break where it meets Serpentine, with a pumpy 27 to the top. Maybe close to 31?

2nd go. not sure it’s any harder than Father Oblivion… crux went down 3rd attempt with a high right foot and a pogo.

Ooh boy what a magical route. Sustained, exposed, exciting, and in one of the most spectacular areas of the mount. Stoked to get the onsight!

Second shot after pumping out 2 moves before reaching easier ground on my onsight go. An immaculate climb, in my Taipan top 3 with Rage/Serp. Bears comparison with Archimedes' Principle. I though the aid requirement might detract from the experience but not at all. It was outrageous pulling under the hanging arete before establishing on good holds and turning the corner. Then there's 20 metres of perfect face climbing, decent holds the whole way but no really nice stances to place gear so you're on your arms the entire time.

It's bold for sure, I ran it out probably 6m through the most strenuous section on both the onsight and redpoint attempts. I could've placed another piece, maybe 2, but you'd need pretty wild endurance to stick around and do so. Let out a guttural yell on sticking the not-quite-a-jug that marked the end of the crux section & was almost too pumped to pull the last couple of moves to the horizontal break and easier ground above.

10/10, mega classic, would be worth the faff to pre-place gear if the ground-up approach doesn't appeal. Psyched!

Top 6 pitches. Some kind of introduction to conglomerate slab climbing…

28 with the top pitch (which is a must do) is about right in my opinion

2nd go

Alzheimer’s onsight