Sector 1 - 'Left Side' 'Access' Ledge: There are numerous low-mid 20s sport routes around 'Uncooth Youth' and 'Diamond Jack' which make this area a very worthwhile destination in its own right. It is also good for a quick warm up on the way to 'Mr Wall'. In addition, there are a number of relatively easy multi-pitch climbs requiring trad gear on the walls above the walking track; these trad climbs are unpopular, route descriptions are vague and any fixed gear should be regarded as questionable.
The crag also catches the wind and can get very cold so take some warm clothes.
© (Ashy)Access -
From Katoomba head down Katoomba St towards Echo Point and turn right into Cliff Dr and follow the 'Scenic Drive 5' signs. Just past the Landslide Lookout, turn left onto the dirt road Glenraphael Dr which heads out along the Narrow Neck Plateau. Follow this for a couple of Kms until the road is blocked by a locked gate, park here. If you're driving from Blackheath there is an alternative approach via Narrow Neck Rd.
From the car park, there are two possible approaches to the crags. The first simply follows a steep track through the scrub to the start of the access ledge. All crags can be approached this way. The second involves following a track to the top of 'Mr Wall' and then rapping in.
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).
If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.
Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.
For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
First time here?
theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a questionAuthor(s): Simon Carter
Date: 2019
ISBN: 9780958079082
The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.
Author(s): Simon Carter
Date: 2019
ISBN: 9780958079075
Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!
21 | ★★ The Jewel Thief | ||
23 | ★★★ You Crazy Diamond | ||
25 | ★★ Diamond Jack | ||
26 | ★★★ Super Weak | ||
27 | ★★★ Mr Magoo | ||
28 | ★★★ Hairline 2000 | ||
33 | ★★★ Fantastic Mr Fox | ||
34 | ★★★ Mr Pinky |
marc landers on ★★ The Jewel Thief 21 - Eric enjoying the view.
Paul Frothy Thomson on ★★ Diamond Jack 25 - Diamond Jack.jpg
Ben Jenga on ★★ Innocent Fortune 24 - Innocent Fortune.jpg
Jas piper on ★★ The Jewel Thief 21 - Position, position, position!
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