Access Ledge Rock climbing 42 routes in cliff

Start 20m right of where the access track meets the bottom of the cliff line. The start is in a small corner faintly marked SS in the middle of the wall capped by a large orange roof.

Located about 70m right from the start of the cliff line just beyond where the track makes it way through the middle of a small clump of trees. The first fixed hanger is clearly visible above the chossy start.

Warning Fixed Gear: rusty bolts

Starts up juggy overhanging "arete" a few metres left of obvious dank corner (corner is marked "RF"). The Bolt Bloke goes right just before gaining the headwall proper (Unity goes left). There are no permanent anchors for this climb. Either top out, or traverse a few metres left and use the anchors on Unity (The Bolt Bloke can be cleaned on lower-off from these anchors without any problems).

Located 5m to the right of The Bolt Bloke and is faintly marked with RF behind a tree. There is a fixed hanger 4m off the ground but how you get to it and where you go after it is a mystery.

Techy, punchy, strenuous, and sustained from the 4th bolt onwards. Independent start between Uncouth Youth and You Crazy Diamond. Tough start, then cruisy past 3 bolts trending up and right into start of "groove". Up past 2 bolts to crux, then sustained hard climbing past 3 more bolts, culminating in airy climbing trending left after last bolt to anchors.

Start as for 'You Crazy Diamond' but between the 4th and 5th bolt follow the line of ringbolts heading left. Finishes at manky two FH & biner rap anchor (not the ringbolt anchor of Family Jewels further left)

Start up You Crazy Diamond for 3 bolts,1 bolt on Crystalis then thinly up new line. One for the old school technical face lovers. Great high stepping pocket crux with many other tricky spots to a high finish up the orange streak.

The classic warm-up of Diamond Falls. Good moves and a long sustained pitch that keeps you thinking all the way to the anchors. Start 12m right of Uncooth Youth, marked by a 23 etched into the rock. Rebolted 2019.

The line of ringbolts up the blunt arête 3m right of You Crazy Diamond. Hard moves getting up to and over the nose and established onto the arête followed by surprisingly pumpy face climbing between well spaced bolts. Finish at the anchors of You Crazy Diamond.

Start as for 8 Carat but at the 3rd bolt traverse right and continue to follow the line of ringbolts on the far side of the arête. 1. 30m (24) Caution: Beware of your rope length. 2. 28m (18).

Marked. Obvious trad-venture corner system. Originally climbed (and written up in the guidebook) as 3 pitches. Best climbed as 2 x pitches. Six or seven bolt plates, wires with doubles of med/large and a single rack of cams 0.3 - #3.

1. 25m (20) Stick clip fixed hanger with difficulty (stem off tree if vertically challenged), then up hard start past bad rock to gain corner. Wires up corner until it ends. Bolt, then slightly left and up past crux slab and weird unclippable bolt to gain second corner system. Up corner for 5m and belay on obvious ledge with hand sized horizontal breaks on the left, wires and a carrot up on the right.

2. 35m (20) Up harder, steepening corner until below roof (wires and small-medium cams). Carrot, and easy traverse under roof to bolt past lip (clip this to avoid rope getting stuck in the crack), then easy runout headwall to 3 x carrot belay 2m below cliff top. Either bush-bash uphill and left to gain main descent track or grade 3 traverse left, passing one carrot to double rings at top of easy grounds a coming and rap down that route (27m and 28m abseils)

Starts up In Harm's Way for one pitch. Nice trad line wandering rightwards across the middle of the large orange wall. Set of wires, set of cams #00 to #5 wild country, double up on #00 to #1.5 extender draws handy.

Access: Abseil to double U bolts with small footledge 15m above the ground. 7 bolts, wires, double set of cams from #0.5 to #4 with triples of #1 and #2.5 (wild country friend), take 20 quickdraws. Has a distinct crux. Climb up and slightly left past 2 U bolts, continue up and slightly left then straight up aiming for 3 fixed hangers half way up the route. There are 2 fixed hangers when you climb through the overhang at the top. Save a #2.5 friend for 4m before last 2 bolts.

Access as for Lucy. 4 bolts, wires, cams from #00 to #0.5 double from #1 to #4 and triple of #3(wild country friends) Start as for Lucy. After the two U bolts continue up past flake systems following line of least resistance. After 20m you will pass 2 rings. Continue up, at major overhang traverse 3m right to double U Belay on Diamonds and Pearls below stepped roof weakness. Continue up Diamonds and Pearls last pitch.

Variant last pitch to Giant Staircase. Rack as for Giant Staircase. At 14m take the left flake past 3 fixed hangers, slightly left then up via main left facing corner system to belay on double U bolts as for Diamonds and Pearls. Continue up Diamonds and Pearls last pitch.

Start as for Diamond Jack clip the first bolt then break left across the face on a series of crimps to a big flake undercling, dynamically up up and away. Finishes at the Diamond Jack anchors.

Start 25m right of In Harm's Way at the boulders just before the access ledge becomes alarmingly narrow, slopey and exposed.

1. 30m (25) Rebolted (2006). All U bolts. Wonderful climbing up the orange face to a small belay ledge with a 3 ringbolt belay. The top is a little runout, most people just clip the bolts but you can also place med cams if you wish.

2. 30m (19) This pitch drifts right up the good looking wall on very old carrots, and requires 10+ bolt plates and a rebolt. The ringbolts above and slightly left of the first belay are not it - that's Gem Stone. A 2 ringbolt anchor is on the ledge 10m below the top, but is poorly positioned for lowering off because the rope grinds on sharp ironstone.

Diamond Jack for 20m then, instead of stepping L to the easy 10m flake, step R for the top 15m of Girls Best Friend. Adds a bunch more face climbing to DJ including another excellent crux.

Start as for Diamond Jack and then traverse right and up following the line of ringbolts. Stick clip the first ringbolt as it is quite high and the moves to get to it a little tricky. Beware of your rope length or you may end up down climbing the flimsy tree suspended over the void.

Gem of a second pitch to The Jewel Thief. When you reach the anchors of The Jewel Thief continue up 2m then left 5m passing a ring to reach the first pitch anchors of Diamond Jack, 3 rings and a carrot. Gem Stone starts from this belay. A good fitness extension of Diamond Jack. Also can be accessed by rap from above. Nine rings, double U bolt lower off 1m below top of cliff. 60m should reach on stretch if lowering back to belay anchors. 38m to reach bolt belay if topping out.

70m to the right of Diamond Jack the track passes a large boulder in amongst the trees. Warlock starts another 10m to the right. Marked with a W and the first carrot is visible 3m above the track.