Cheesedale Guide

One for the Kneebarers, starts a few metres left of Cheese Gobbler up via a couple powerful moves and cruxy kneebar into the quality roof and head wall.

Well in the 9th

Tom O'Halloran

Extension of Cheese Gobbler that goes all the way to the top of the cliff via a whole bunch of hard independent climbing and then the top of The Big Cheese. Original vision by Robbie, new vision and execution by Tom.

Mark McGivern

A crazy extension to Metamorphosis climbing all the way to the top of the cliff. Endurance test piece.

Daniel

Climb meta to the last bolt then head left to the ‘jug’ rest on baby cheeses and do it’s final crux before finishing up the big cheese.

Old projects, maybe Paul Westwood?

Old projects, maybe Paul Westwood?

Insane! A line of holds just happens to lead into the belly of the big roof, meeting the Big Cheese for the final few moves at the lip. The star destroyer shaped roof is brilliant pocketed sandstone.

The original project before Curds of Prey was found, the huge undercling at the lip looked so inviting. A cool sequence to turn the lip, then traverse left along the juggy red stone to the apex of the cheese wedge. Clip the chains on The Wheel of Cheese, then top out!

Traverse across the brilliant white rock in an excellent position, crossing the bulge to a fine headwall. Extend the clip on the bolt before the steepness to avoid excessive drag.

Start as for Spicy Cheese but head left and up through the cruxy bulge to follow the S-shaped line. Keep going all the way to the top of the cliff. Fun climbing, lost a grade recently due to new holds being discovered at the crux.

A fine morsel. Start as for Spicy Cheese and finish at anchors halfway up the wall.

Start at the flake below the offwidth between Cheesemonster Wall and the bouldering. A slightly mingin start leads to excellent featured climbing on a great angle. A finger endurance test piece!

Start on 'ankles away' then head right through multiple roofs to a ledge before the unique 'bowl' crux and final roof. Wait for a dry spell and take some long slings.

Andrew Bull Hugo Hornshaw

Start up Cheese Monster past the first crux. At the break climb right, past the crux of "Non-Dairy Cheese-Like Substitute". At the break under the roof, head straight out past slopes and edges (V9) and finish with a big move to the break. Awesomely sustained climb, vision and bolts by Robbie Le Breton, climbed by Vince Day.

Route renamed on request of Vince Day in 2020.

Lee Cossey

As for Stinky Cheese for 8 metres or so. Head up through the slopey flake to the start of the roof. Go left about 10 metres to join the last 3 moves of Cheesemonster (stay high).

Start up Cheesemonster. At the break traverse right a few metres to join Non Dairy Cheeselike Substitute, and finish up that.

Variants to NDCS : just before the final crux, drop-down onto Cheesemonster's final big jug. Finish as for Cheesemonster or Stinky Cheese.

Start up Wham Bam Thankyou Maam. At 3 metres, traverse left and up a bit and more left. At 12 metres the route joins Cheesemonster for 4 bolts. Just before the massive flat-top jug, traverse left another few metres, then up to Cheesemonster anchors.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

As for Stinky Cheese for 15 metres or so. Where Dick Cheese traverses left at the break near the end, go up for two bolts then left to Dick Cheese anchors.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

Start up WBTM, traverse right into "Strike of the Silver Fox" then continue right through roof for a few more meters before turning the lip and finishing up head wall.

The bolted seepy weird crack.

Big rightwards rising traverse.

Super Average Man direct start

Warning: The climb stops at the anchors underneath the small roof. The block above these anchors is loose, do not attempt to climb above the roof to the U-anchor.

The faint arête in the middle of the wall with big pockets at the start.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

Starts up SMH then moves into anhor of D then finishes on breaks to top of wall.

Route name changed at the request of the first ascentionist.

Technical start and steep juggy finish. Has two sets of bolts for most of the bolts, probably recommended to clip the new ones.

Right of Roger the Goat. Up the pillar past a few ring bolts to double rings.

Start of the left hand end of the cave. Carrot to belay from. Climb finishes at first DRB. The second set of anchors is for the other routes.

Start a few meters to the right of 'Uncertainty Pleasure', carrot to belay. Join into GK and finish at the second set of double ring bolts.

Start at the right hand end of the cave, there is a carrot here to belay from. Jug traverse through the roof. Keep going, no hard moves, just pumpy.

Climb to first anchors, the extension is still a project.

Sit start and climb the arete on its right side.

Cramped sit start on big jug. Move straight up via sloper to top out.

Cramped sit start on big jug. Head out right on slopers before topping out.

Sit start and traverse right to top out over the bulge.

Sit start under the small roof. Move right through honeycombs to top out over the bulge.

Contrived but how i believe it was originally climbed, Without using the lefthand underling. lock it and load it!

Sit start and up left on slopers & underling to finish at break. going direct is a v8

Sit start and up right on slopers to finish at break.

Up the right trending flake.

Start with left hand on the undercling and right hand on the pebbly hold with a mono. Move up to the two crimps, then move up to the first break. Head left to the rail, then back right to the break.

Start with left hand on the undercling and right hand on the pebbly hold with a mono. Move up to the two crimps, then move up to the first break. Go straight up from here to the next break. It was Australia's first V11.

Start from obvious jug. Right hand to crimp and Left hand to side-pull pocket to finish at break.

Sit start and up then left to finish at the break out left.

Sit start and up right to finish at the break.

Start as for Jug to Jug to the LH slot but then head left across Turbo Guns via two difficult cross overs to finish left of that problem.

Start on the big break then LH cross-over to pocket and bust RH to break. Match and then long move with RH to gaston the slot, LH up to the 3 finger pocket and jump around the bulge, control the swing and finish matched on the jug just up and right. Australia's first V10 and still the benchmark.

Start as for Turbo Guns but from the first break go with the LH to the gaston slot of Turbo Guns then a super long move around the bulge and finish as per Turbo Guns.

Start on the starting holds of Pearl Necklace but head left via shallow underclings and pockets to finish up Bumpy Boys.

Start on the good holds below the seam and head up via the enhanced slots and the "potato" hold and match on the finishing sloper.

Start on the good holds, head up to the shallow pocket and throw around the bulge to the good hold and match to finish.

Sit start as for the "Two Fingered Destiny" but head right to join Mr Olympia and finish as per that problem.

(The line no longer exists) aka Don't Get Huge, Get Massive Sit start on the RH undercling and go up left to some shallow crimps, then back up right to the better holds. Take the pinch with your RH and long move around the bulge to match on the finishing hold.

(The line no longer exists) Sit start just right of Mr Olympia and go up RH to the pocket and head left to join Mr Olympia and finish up that problem.

Sit start on the same hold as Blowing Blood but head right and finish up quite high as per Gorilla Grip.

Start way right on the two obvious holds, traverse left to join Monkey Grip, and finish up the problem.

Start as for Monkey Grip (V9), finished matched in hueco above and left of start holds of Gorilla Grip (V10).