Routes in North West for selected grade

High traverse that circumscribes the wall above 'Deck Games'. The original purpose of the 'mystery' bolt.

Start at the top of 'Deck Gully' at the obvious traverse line. There is gear that protects the step out to clip the bolt. Scamper along the traverse line clipping a bolt on Gordy's route till you get to the front of the block. up and belay.

The lovely right-facing flake corner bordering the left side of the great blankish north-west wall. It's a pity that it gets heavily top-roped.

Climb the right-facing corner with hard moves past the little roof then keep cranking up slightly left to the top. Gear has a habit of unzipping on people; consider placing a directional at the start and being generous with the draws.

Steep jugs, crack, face. Start R of OB, just L of overhangs, beneath small flake on bulge.

Start in V corner, soon moving left until under large jammed blocks. Pull through the bulge, then up vertical seam, then step up and left. Soon after, traverse left to the ledge with rap station.

Excellent sustained climbing up the line with great pro. A borderline classic. There are two striking cracks on the wall on the left side of Colosseum Wall - this is the left one.

Ann Pauligk's 1977 ascent was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

The usual claim of those who don't...

Start 8m R of FM. To break (wire on left), then right to bulge.

The corner, then R around the roof.

Start: Start beneath the distinctive orange triangular roof towards the L end of the crag.

Easy wall, orange rock, then L under overhangs to arete. Up it.

Start: Start 30m L of 'Light Fingered' (which is described on a separate page).

Easily to pillar then flake up R. L below bulge and up seam.

Start: Start at obvious slender buttress between DD and 'Light Fingered'.

Bridge up to gain flake and climb up to roof. Swing through roof.

Start: Start: Three metres right again is another flake.

Anyone who isn't paranoid lacks imagination. A technical onsight lead. Continue down the gully past a short step. Directly under the narrowest part of the gully there is a shallow black corner which leans right and runs up to a series of roofs and overhangs. Directly above the start of this route there is a thin crack through a large overhang. The line shown in the topo is a guess.

Start: Continue down the wall from SSHSEBI5. The wall gets smaller and grey and then rises again with steep orange rock. On the left of this section is a line (starting just left of the hole) that goes up past a large pocket.

Up line.

Up to the top of the flake, R, up.

Start: Start 2m R of BC.

Bouldery start then up face to the spectators' gallery.

Start: Start opposite 'Cobwebs' and about 2m downhill.

The grey wall.

Start: Start at the top of the gully on the R side, 30m L of 'Entangled'.

Short flake, orange wall, tend L then back R. Very poorly protected and not the best rock.

Start: Start 5m R of TS.

More than popular One move wonder. Start: Start at far left hand end of ledge.

Pilot Error is graded as 20 in the Mentz & Tempest Arapiles Guide Book.

Crack over roof of cave between Pilot Error and Tarzan, then chimney.

Start at the base of the slim pillar at the back of the gully between Pilot Error Ledge and Lois Lane Wall.

1. 12m (19) Boulder up into the thin crack on the front face of the pillar.

2. 18m (19) Climb the fingery face on the R wall of the gully above the ledge, beware slightly fragile rock. Stay L of the arete up higher on glorious jugs, to chains (30m to ground).

Link up of Excuse me While I Belch into 2nd pitch of Lex Luthor. No stepping onto the massive chockstone. Do as one big pitch to get grade 20. Can lower off with 60m rope.

Start: Start in the gully at the base of the arete R of 'Cassandra'.

1. 20m (20) Scary arete to Cassandra's anchor.

2. 20m (20) Steeply up arete until you have to go a bit left. Where this is in relation to pitch 2 of 'Cassandra' (or if there is any difference) is anybody's guess.

Start: Start beneath L side of the face at short slabby chimney.

1. 20m (20) Easy chimney then more steeply straight upwards.

2. 18m (20) 'Steep' crack to ledge. Walk off R to the 'Muldoon' rap anchor, or continue up the wall at the back of the terrace with a little roof at 4m.

Start R of Clytemnestra at a little gully heading towards Agamemnon. Take the thin crack on the L arete. Scramble off.

Possibly the best crack at Arapiles. The diagonal elephant's butt crack is a classic of the genre. Start just left of Agamemnon and finish where that route does. Belaying off the rings is not ideal but there are some excellent features to sling.

"If you enjoy crumbling sea cliffs, you might feel at home on this" (Mentz-Tempest guide). Climb through moss to a ledge, to stand below the striking grey prow. Some gymnastic moves are required to get started, and if your second is not tall they will struggle to remove the gear you placed out of their reach at this point. Follow the line of pockets up, veering left at the end.

Start at the small flake but step L and then up.

Start: Start 2m R of CS.

Straight up the flake.

Start: Start as for V.

Start on the L to gain the diagonal.

Start: Start on the 3rd blocky pinnacle, opposite the 2nd pinnacle.

The face.

Start: Start 1m R of CRaCM.

Up FP to the PR then R and up mossy streak. Start as for FP.

Start at the left-leading diagonal crack. Follow it into the easy chimney on Cadenza Direct and up to the sloping ledge. Traverse 5m right to a tricky exit.

Fairly good climbing culminating in the left arete of D Minor. The strenuous crux past the last bolt is a little contrived though. Start at a short diagonal finger crack 3m right of the Quaver chimney.

1. 20m (16) Up finger crack to ledge then diagonally left into Quaver. Swing up left onto slab and FH and go straight up thin centre of slab to the first belay of D Minor.

2. 10m (20) Up arete left of D Minor - clip the first bolt from up L then drop back down and climb the front of the arete direct.

Makes a good change.

The original approach to what eventually became Jen's Roof. Bridge up the gully left of Dirge then out right to short thin crack. From crack go right into Dirge and up this to roof on right. Hand-traverse right on the lip of the roof to where there is now a FH, then up steep jugs to chains.

Left to right over nose. Sit start.

Start: In the middle of the wall right of Blue Chev' is a thin line.

Up this.

Continue up the gully to below the middle of the righthand wall. The line in the middle of the wall, with a reachy finish.

Try not to pike right.

Start: Line 2m right of 'Cellulite'.

Boulder the start.

Start 6m right of Jason. Up past horizontal, then the groove, and head R after bulge. The hanging block at the end of the crux sounds pretty hollow.

The wall then the arete, starting around right of Anteus.

The line on the front of the pillar - no piking L or R. The pillar was first climbed via the crack at 16 in 1975.

The R crack.

The curving corner.

Start: Start at the middle of the wall.

The thin crack in the front face of the block.

Start: Start beneath the small block below 'Paladin'.

To ledge, then committing to gain the hanging corner on the arete just R of the top of 'Die Loaded'.

Start: Start at the top of DS.

Yet to be determined whether it actually lives up to the impressive hype job, which goes like this: "That's the best move I've done in my life" - James. And: "This would be an OK route if it wasn't for the second pitch which makes it fantastic!"

Start: Start. Left of 'Shattered' there is a diagonal seam/crack (L-R). Right of this a thin crack allows runners. The crux is getting from the runners left and up into the line. It is possible to start to the left if you don't want any gear. As it is the upper part of the crack is a bit go-ey.

1. 10m (20) Up to gear, step left and up into line then follow line up left, laybacking at will. When it's all over you can step left to a small stance on the arete.

2. 15m (20) Climb the fantastic arete. Pull through first roof on left and then up to and through second roof. You can scramble off left from the top of the first pitch, or from below the final roof.

Later ascents have confirmed that they were on really excellent drugs. The climbing is rubbish.

The R-leaning sickle.

Start: Start on the L side of the orange/red face.

The thin crack.

Start: Start at the R end of the wall.

An excellent route with hard bits down low and up high. Start below the major crack on the right side of the wall, 2m L of the Droop Street arete. Move up to the seam to a tricky move, then enjoyable climbing follows to a solid finger crack at the top.

From the corner of John's Corner, step left then head up wall past bolt. The best way to do the route.

On the East face (the one facing camp), left of the Gelf icon and corner of CoPLI is a line through a bulge. Be warned about rock and gear.

Start as for F. Traverse L past F and up the Intransience face (see the Cecilia Wall area).

Slab, crack, then steep but somewhat contrived arête. Take some wires and mid size cams for the middle section.

From the start of PN, scramble up gully towards base of vegetated, mossy corner (Gethsemane). Just before the corner is a seam and groove to a ledge then a crack up the orange and black wall to big orange roof. At roof, traverse left to anchors on PN. Don't lower off with a 50m rope.

The overhang and wall R of AW. Start just R of AW.

An enjoyable long pitch if linked, but do two pitches if the second is any chance of dropping the crux near the ground. Start as for Wild Oats.

1. 18m (20) Boulder problem start then boldly up thin seam to belay at stance level with Reaper belay. Note this pitch is given 21 under the Fine Arts description.

2. 22m (19) Up crack then break left. Straight up past shattered rock (avoidable) and spaced pro to finish up thin crack near arete.

Descend by making a roped traverse left, either 5m to (an easy) reverse mantle to the chains of Taste Sensation (33m rap) or 15m to the DRB of Berserk (25m rap).

Start under the SE arete of the Reaper Buttress, 2m R of Incest and 6m L of Red Parrot Chasm.

1. 25m (20) Bouldery crux start up weakness, then step R (going straight up is the scary 21 first pitch of Fine Arts). Join twin cracks to ledge. Still quite runout though easier.

2. 25m (15) Up to horizontal then head L around arete for about 10m and up the main crack.

3. 20m (-) Traverse easily off L, or don your crampons for the summit.

Start 2m R of RS.

1. 25m (20) Boldly up the face to the cave.

2. 10m (-) Move L and up short face to the Pillars.

Start 1m R of Preludes. Up to small stance. A couple of commiting moves lead up to a bolt, then a slippery crux gains a shallow R-facing corner to rap anchors on the ledge. Lower off.

Alternatively at the top go up the finger crack of Stalagmite for a few moves and then right up the headwall. It feels a bit loose up there so take care and warn people below.

Thin and bold. Start R of Preludes, and directly opposite Scourge (which is on Minstrel Pinnacle).

Short crack, then trend R at bulge to large flake. Up L to 2nd bulge then roof.

Start R of A. The rib on the L of the smooth wall, past break, until it eases off. Now traverse R then go up.

The central line with poor pro at first.

Start: Start in the chasm, in the middle of the north face of Minstrel Pinnacle.

Up past 'Oh Bondage' there's a tight gully with a slender buttress in it. Obvious but not worthwhile. Probably should be in 'Skyline Walls' section.

Start up orange flake 2m R of major crack then scramble up ledges. Finish through overhang.

The ugly black crack beneath the belay of LE.

Start: Start R of SS.

Climb Arab p3 for 4m then step L and up. Stay out of Saracen and traverse R along the lip of the roof, to join a thin crack, straight on up the face, and take the roof by the R. The original route has a poxy independent first pitch starting 10m L of Saracen but you're far better off approaching via Arab as described.

Start at Arab's second belay.

Go R under roof to juggy exit. Start on the ledge above Icecream Man.

As for Visual Laxative to the first ledge, then dodge the crux by going straight up the flake to the second ledge.

This length is surely overstated. Anyway, up the unprotected start of O-W to the ledge. Now go R and up arete to a ledge then do the top overhang.

Start: Start as for O-W.

Not much pro.

Start: Start below left arete of Orc-Wood Wall.

A girdle of the 'Plaque' outcrop...good luck at getting past the topropers.

Start: Start on the far L.

Worthless pro!

Start at bottom sloping side of SW side of the boulder. Traverse along the lip then round nose and up.

Starting on the two obvious crimps and using the sidepull to make your way right . Avoid using the obvious juggy ledges. Finishes on the round white marble-y hold.

Stand start in jam then up left and top out. Looks like a quite hard sit start has been done

Start on the up hill end and traverse right all the way to the same top out as the jam slot

On the trackside of the boulder. Up big suspect flakes.

Rising traverse left, then up on spaced but good holds

Traverse R to L

Tenuous smooth wall just L of jugs

Rounded arete on good holds

Sit start on obvious jug, then straight up to top out via ledge.