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Upper Wall - Bataille

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Summary

The blue, grey and yellow streaks that color the Upper Wall are littered with interesting features- hosting a great selection of pockets, pods, pinches and edges. Hardest crag in Canada.

Description

This wall gets very little sun which makes for a perfect spot in the middle of summer to crank hard. Bring a jacket! even in July/August.

Access issues

None

Approach

50mins

Where to stay

canmore, yyc

Ethic

respect

History

History timeline chart

lots and lots. Birth place of hard climbing in the Rockies.

Tags

Routes

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New one at Upper Wall. Start on a boulder left of Bataille.

FA: evan hau

Starts to the left of The Warm Up- between two boulders on the ledge. Head up the grey and yellow streaks to the chains.

FA: Dale Robinson, 1994

Climb the warm up or Bataille following a pockets line of bolts to the left and finish at a long chain anchor

From the top of Dales Extender, execute one really hard move off a mono. This route might be a very fast tick if you have tendons of steel! It might also end your climbing season......

FA: Jd LeBlanc, 2000

Not a great warm up but its all there is. Perma draws also which is nice. Start at the bottom of the small, left trending ramp and follow the blue streak to the anchor.

FA: Shep Steiner, 1996

Climb The Warm-Up then follow a blue streak through a scoop on thin holds above. Gun for a big hole in the yellow rock and then run it out on easy terrain to the top.

Set: Shep Steiner

FA: Scott Milton, 2000

This popular line is a good introduction to the harder climbing at the crag. Start to the left of a shallow, right-facing corner and follow a blue streak to two cruxes separated by a poor rest.

FA: Todd Guyn, 1994

Follow a small blue streak to a roof. Beautiful climbing on pockets and pods lead to an amazing crux pulling onto the "whale back". Finish on a steep headwall.

FA: Scott Milton, 2000

Seriously, Yankees go home....jks. But seriously don't bring your ego to Acephale tourists The most popular 12D in Alberta. Polished, steep, pumpy and short. From the ledge, climb over a chossy section into a (12b) crimpy move, gaining a corner. The "crux" is at the top of the corner and involves a big slap to a sloper from a pocket. Part of the difficulty in this route is clipping the chains, so if you want the 12D tick, don't but any long draws or slings on the anchor!! FAists words.

FA: Daren Tremaine, 1993

Climb Jingus Americanus to the big slap move. Veer left on pods to hard moves on small holds slapping up the bulge.

Start to the left of a yellow corner capped by a roof. From the ledge, pull the roof and head left into a scoop. Continue left to a finish on Jingus Americanus.

FA: scott milton

Climb Half Nelson but continue up beautiful grey rock to an impossible looking crux.

Set: Evan Hau

FA: Alex Megos, 2016

Climb a small right facing corner before pulling a short overlap to reach two bolts worth of compact grey rock. Trend left on pockets to finish on the anchor of Jingus Americanus.

FA: Evan Hau, 2013

Start to the right of a yellow corner capped by a roof. Follow the blue streak on edges and pockets to a high crux. Manufactured and glued.

FA: Jd LeBlanc, 1997

From the shattered ledge, head up to the horizontal break and veer left. Difficult moves in the overhanging lead into a scoop. Finish with easier climbing on cool pockets. This boulder problem is probably the most tried 5.13 in Alberta. Basically a v8 boulder problem.

Set: Jd LeBlanc

FA: Todd Guyn, 1995

Retro bolting has eliminated 2 cruxes (clips), and it is now easier than when first climbed. Plus it is actually worth climbing now, as before it was a turd.

This classic has continuously powerful all the way to the bathtub rail. Finish up a small corner

FA: Daren Tremaine, 1993

This is the left most route out of the small cave. Finish on the anchors of Altius

FA: Evan Hau, 2012

A heinously blank and runout steep slab above Hairball. Tried by many strong lads over the years but took the worlds strongest fingers needed to free this line of nothing slab.

FA: Adam Ondra, 30 Nov 2016

Start in The middle of the chossy ledge and crimp upward to the roof. Big moves and cryptic footwork end with a wild swing. A few tough moves close the deal.

FA: Lev pinter, 2005

Climb directly out the centre of the steep overhang. A bouldery crux leads to the safety of large pods above

FA: Joe Kinder, 2012

Climb out the right side of the steep overhang and directly into the desperate crux. At the headwall, finish up Bunda De Fore.

Set: Joe Kinder

FA: Josh muller, 2015

FFA: Alex Megos, Aug 2016

Start on the right side of the chossy ledge. A very powerful crux negotiates the roof.

FA: Lev pinter, 2006

Similar to its neighbors, Two powerful cruxes separated by a poor rest.

Set: Derek Galloway

FA: Josh Muller, 2012

Climb through the first crux of Prime Time before traversing right and finishing up First Flight Direct Project.

Set: Lev Pinter

FA: Josh muller, 2014

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Derek Galloway

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9781777147112

The Bow Valley is known amongst sport climbers as some of the best summer climbing in Canada. The third edition of this comprehensive guide includes the newest crags, as well as the best cliffs that Banff, Canmore and Lake Louise has to offer. Tips on trip planning and rest day activities, info on the local flora and fauna, and tof topos and action shots get you psyched for your visit.

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