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The Junction All Sport climbing 8 routes in area

8
YDS
5.11a5.11c5.12a5.12c

Seasonality

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F
M
A
M
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D

Summary

The first wall you will see apon gaining Acephale. The Juction seperates upper wall to lower wall. The climbing here is defintely worth the time.

Description

Very sharp, enduro routes. Some of the best 12b's in the valley live here.

Access issues

none

Approach

45mins

Where to stay

canmore yyc

Ethic

respect

History

History timeline chart

Jd Leblanc, Lev Pinter, Todd Guyn.

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.12b ★★ Bucking Horse Sport 34m, 13

Start to the left of the dirty flake. If you persist through the rotten bottom, you’ll be rewarded with an endless stretch of great climbing above.

FA: Todd Guyn

2
5.12b ★★★ Hickory Dickory Dock Sport 34m, 16

Using the dirty flake head straight up and over the ledge to a no hands rest. Punch last two fixed draws to a rest out left. Motor to the top. Classic

FA: Todd Guyn

3
5.12c ★★ Duck Bill Sport 31m, 15

Climb Hickory Dickory Dock to bolt four on the rest and trend left. Difficult climbing leads to a boulder problem below the anchor.

FA: Jd Leblanc

4
5.12d ★★ Go Ask Alice Sport 34m, 2, 18

Start to the left of the yellow streak. Easyish climbing to an excellent rest is followed by increasingly difficult moves and clips up the blank wall. Surf around and finish with a tricky mantle.

FA: Jd Leblanc

5
5.12b ★★ Lose Yourself Sport 30m
6
5.11c ★ Nitro light Sport 11m, 7

An excellent technical warm up punctuated by jugs.

FA: Lev Pinter

7
5.12c ★ Nitro Sport 32m, 2, 12

A hardish boulder problem leads to a very fun airy easy finish.

FA: Lev Pinter, 2015

8
5.11a ★★ Go Light Sport 12m, 4

Link up. Worth doing for a warm up. Start on Go Ask Alice, climb the vert tech and traverse in right on buckets after the 4th bolt and clip the anchor of Nitro Light.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Bow Valley Sport 3rd Edition

Author(s): Derek Galloway

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9781777147112

The Bow Valley is known amongst sport climbers as some of the best summer climbing in Canada. The third edition of this comprehensive guide includes the newest crags, as well as the best cliffs that Banff, Canmore and Lake Louise has to offer. Tips on trip planning and rest day activities, info on the local flora and fauna, and tof topos and action shots get you psyched for your visit.

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5.12b ★★★ Hickory Dickory Dock
5.12d ★★ Go Ask Alice

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Thu 8 Jun
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