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Description
Spät anerkannter Gipfel mit mehreren modernen Aufstiegen aus der Talseite.
Special thanks for the topo to Frank Rainer Richter, Königstein
Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz
Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.
Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.
Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.
Descent notes
Eine Abseilpiste führt vom Gipfel in westliche Richtung 20 m + 26 m zum Wandfuß. Die 2. AÖ ist leicht zu übersehen. Das abziehen von den darunterliegenden R ist ev. schwierig. Eine weitere Abseilpiste befindet sich im Verlauf des „AW“. Wenn man über diese zum Wandfuß will, nach der 2. Abseile Richtung Haselmaus und die Abseile Abendwand benutzen.
Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz
You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:
- Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
- No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
- No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
- no chalk, no pof
- Sign the summit register.
- Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
- Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
- Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.
History
Es wurden bereits in den 70ern Wege aus der Talseite erschlossen. Der Gipfel wurde damals nicht anerkannt. Die R wurden daraufhin entfernt und nach der Anerkennung neu installiert. Die Wände wurden vor den neuen Erstbegehungen teilweise sehr gründlich gereinigt.
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Selected Guidebooks more Hide
Author(s): B. Arnold
Date: 2017
Der Kletterführer bietet den ultimativen Überblick über die großen klassischen Kletterwege an den bis zu 100 Meter hohen Felsen des Elbsandsteingebirges.
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Tue 6 Jun
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