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Einsiedler

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Description

AS 22m

Access issues inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

Das Klettern ist in der Sächsischen Schweiz nur nach den "Sächsischen Kletterregeln" gestattet.

Dementsprechend darf nur an genehmigten Felsen geklettert werden. An allen anderen Felsformationen besteht Kletterverbot.

Most parts right of the Elbe are located within the Nationalpark Sächsische Schweiz with all the rules you'd expect associated with this, but climbing is generally allowed. Left of the Elbe, the area is mostly covered by a lesser degree protection area (Landschaftsschutzgebiet), also with a well marked network of hiking trails. Some few summits are located on private property, see the guidebook. During spring and early summer, selected summits may be closed because of nesting falcons or owls - check at DAV Sachsen or current list of climbing bans / aktuelle Sperrungsliste.

Ethic inherited from Sächsische Schweiz

You want ethics? This is the home of ethics. Most of these are peculiar for outsiders, but have a long history. Although every few years eagerly debated, they are still valid and even legally binding by being referenced by the Nationalpark regulations. They can be summarized as:

  • Climbing is only allowed on free standing rock towers. With only a handful of exceptions, all other rock walls are off limits
  • No climbing on wet rock - for your safety and the soft rock's sake. For climbability an extra model was developed.. CHECK IT at unclear conditions.
  • No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the sparse ring bolts may only be filled with slings (jammed knots, V-threads, lassoed chickenheads). A wooden or plastic "dagger" may be used for better placements.
  • no chalk, no pof
  • Sign the summit register.
  • Jumping is an accepted way of reaching a summit. This can range from slightly more than a stepover to completely insane kamikaze operations. The respective grade system (1-easy to 4-hard) is currently extended to 6 or even 7.
  • Boosting a climber ("unterstützt", i.e. supporting his progress by providing "human holds") is accepted or even necessary on some routes. "Ausgiebig unterstützt" goes as far as building multistory human ladders.
  • Toproping is frowned upon. For first ascends only ground-up ascents are accepted; minimum bolt distance is enforced. Be sure to contact a local, as there may be restrictions on certain cliffs.

Tags

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: 1923

FA: K. Niziak, 1985

FA: G. Heinicke & H. J. Scholz, 1959

FA: W. Schönlebe & M. Urbczat, 1979

A.F. Xb

FA: T. Willenberg & R. Oehme, 2007

FA: J. Höfer, M. Mittasch & A. Schöninger, 1989

FA: D. Hasse, H. Großer & E. Pöche, 1951

Wie "Talweg" rechts der Nordwestkante zu angedeutetem Band. Wand gerade zum Ring. Leicht rechtshaltend zum nachträglichen Ring des "Nordwestweg". Beliebig zum Gipfel.

FA: Olaf Güldner und Wido Woicik & Yvonne Krienitz, 1990

Start Nordwestweg and finish Lange Kante

FA: H. J. Scholz & G. Heinicke, 1959

A.F. VIIIC

FA: F. Heinicke & A. Riemer, 1998

FA: M. Vogel, H. Heller & U. Zeuke, 1977

FA: H. Züllcher & U. Henke, 1991

with support VIIa

FA: R. Weigand & G. Schmiede, 1961

A.F. IXb

FA: T. Rudolf & M. Weippert, 1982

with support VIIa

FA: D. Ulbrich, L. Petrich & H. Petrich, 1977

FA: M. Vogel & S. Vogel, 1990

with support VIIb

FA: H. Züllcher & J. Gelenk, 1975

FA: J. Friedrich, G. hommel, F. Heinicke & S. Richter, 1990

A.F. VIIIC

FA: J. Manka & S. Schubert, 2001

https://youtu.be/wRx-DNL4fHY?si=JeyzL9DZ1LMubLMi

FA: H. Hering, L. Schülbe & K. Richter, 1970

FA: D. Ziegra & J. Manka, 2001

FA: T. Willenberg, 2008

FA: T. Willenberg, 2007

with support VIIc

FA: K. Lindner & H.-J. Gleisberg, 1959

A.F. Xc

FA: T. Willenberg, 2001

FA: K. Lindner & H.-J. Gleisberg, 1959

A.F. XIb

FA: T. Willenberg, 2007

A.F. Xc

FA: T. Willenberg, 2007

A.F. VIIB

FA: K. Paul, R. Gasch, G. Kürbiß, G. Witt, M. Vogel & K. Wurm, 1965

FA: T. Willenberg, 2007

FA: R. Kunert & E. Neubert, 1961

FA: M. Vogel, H. Heller, K. Thomas & J. Munde, 1979

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): H. Schulze & V. Hölker

Date: 2022

Author(s): B. Arnold

Date: 2017

Der Kletterführer bietet den ultimativen Überblick über die großen klassischen Kletterwege an den bis zu 100 Meter hohen Felsen des Elbsandsteingebirges.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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