Rooiberg, Rock climbing

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Summary

An outstanding crag with a great mix of both trad and sport climbing.

Description

Huge red walls and a large roof of hard Cederberg sandstone. Generally excellent quality rock.

Access issues

This crag is on private property. Permits for non resident at Nuwerust.

Approach

30-45 min

To the left of the round swimming pool are some shed-like buildings. From behind these buildings make your way through a series of gates to gain the river bank. Boulder-hop across the river and find the start of the trail that leads up to the huge brown amphitheatre and over the Rooiberg. Follow the trail to the foot of the rock (about 40 minutes), then go left and up the slope for 100 m or so to the start of the climbing on a square protuding buttress.

Please note that the routes on these crags are quite long and it is advisable to use a 60 m rope.

Where to stay

Nuwerust Guest Farm:

http://www.cederbergexperience.co.za/

S 32° 33’ 42.1” E 19° 22’ 41.1”

Ethic

Rooiberg is a trad and sport area, with plenty potential for single- and multipitch (up to 120 m high) sport and trad routes. Please take note that although bolting is permitted here, let the owners know that you would like to bolt and fill in the ‘new routes’ book. Also have the courtesy to check that your bolting project is not an existing trad line. Please also try and put top anchors on your single-pitch trad routes to facilitate descents.

History

History timeline chart

The Rooiberg Mountain is on the farm of Nuwerus which is owned by Louise Esterhuizen and Steven Windell. The crags, which are situated about 40 minutes walk from the farmstead, were only developed recently and offer great routes on typical hard Cederberg rock with massive potential for literally hundreds of routes, so grab your drill (or your trad gear) and head on out.