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1 30m
2 15m
3 20m
4 20m
5 30m

description

A fantastic meander on superb rock. Easier than it looks all the way. Every pitch a classic! Highly recommended.

The route starts at the same place as Swazi Kings and tends to the right

  1. 30m (F3/16) Climb up a few metres before starting a long climbing traverse to the right crossing Crackattack just above it's first cruxy roof. Continue to a ledge that runs out to the front of the buttress. Climb up and right following a stepped recess to a ledge at the base of an obvious off-width corner crack.

  2. 15m (F3/16) Climb the corner, using the off-width where necessary and good hold on the face to the left. At the top of the off-width bunch up under an overhang and using a good undercling turn the overhang on the left. Continue up to the large balcony ledge above. The next pitch starts a couple of meters to the right and follows the undercut and blocky right hand arete.

  3. 20m (F3/16) Stepping off a protruding shelf (cairn) climb straight up the blocky arete and continue up to the long ledge above. Walk to the right. Continue past Blunt Brothers recess for some 30m to a point just before the next large recess starts. There is a square block on the ledge below a short vertical crack capped by a low overhang breaking right.

  4. 20m (F3/16) Climb up to the overhang and rail right and pull up onto a protruding square block. Climb diagonally up and right onto the blunt arete. Follow the arete easily and continue past a ledge to a higher ledge below a steepening in the face.

  5. 30m( F3/16) Traverse to the right following the ledge to the off-width corner crack. Climb up a couple of metres till able to move right onto the face to the right of the off-width. Pull through a low overhang and continue up the deceptively easy face to the top.

Route history

25 Jan 2014First ascent: D. Mercer & Scurvy

Warnings

Location

Lat/Lon: -32.55432, 19.38062

Grade citation

16 Assigned grade
16, 16, 16, 16, 16 Malcolm V

ethic

Rooiberg is a trad and sport area, with plenty potential for single- and multipitch (up to 120 m high) sport and trad routes. Please take note that although bolting is permitted here, let the owners know that you would like to bolt and fill in the ‘new routes’ book. Also have the courtesy to check that your bolting project is not an existing trad line. Please also try and put top anchors on your single-pitch trad routes to facilitate descents.

inherited from Rooiberg

Seasonality

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M
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Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 92 from 6 ratings.

Difficulty - 16

Soft Touch
Easy
Average
Hard
Sandbag

Based on 1 ratings.

Suggested Grade

16

Based on 1 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight 4
Red point 2
Tick 2

Comment keywords

amazing lovely classic incredible

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Tony Lourens

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9780796123541

A definitive guidebook covering all the sport climbing found throughout the whole of the Cederberg mountain range, describing 436 sport routes across a wide range of grades from F4b to F9a.

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Wed 7 Jun
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