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Bochlwyd Buttress

  • Grade context: UK
  • Ascents: 9
  • Aka: Bochlywyd Buttress

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Summary

Sever to E2 5b. Good range of varied multinpitch climbing.

Description

Great crag for begginners and expirenced climbers. Shaded in the mornings for those hot days.

Approach

Park in the ogwen, follow paths up towards llyn bochlwyd. When the path begins to steepen and follows a river the crag is on your left.

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: F E Hicks, C V A Cooper & W E Woosnam Jones , 26 Sep

Easy start up to a steep groove. Climb to a undercut crack, jam right and follow to a virtual crack to a ledge. Tale the groove to the finish on the slab above.

1 HS 4b 9m
2 S 21m

Either start at the bottom of the Chimney (direct) or to the right of the giant flake. Climb until you sling the top of this flake for your first belay. Then move out continuing up the Chimney, avoid when wet as it becomes much harder. Continue to the top.

25m. Climb upward to the right of the Chimney. Onto a small flake following crack lines to a small ledge big enough for 2.belay here.

20m. Traverse left over broken rock to then take the easier route up.

Best climbed from the top of pitch 1 to 3 to 5.

  1. 7m. up the small slab.

  2. 4b.9m. Climb into the slot, with good gear bridge up, left and out to small belay.

  3. 9m. Climb up onto a good obvious ledge to belay.

  4. 10m zig left across easy ground the zag right up onto the ledge before the slab/buldge. Belay here.

  5. 10m. Climb straight up over the buldge until the top.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Terry Taylor

Date: 2024

ISBN: 9781805175414

A comprehensive guidebook describing all the bouldering in South Snowdonia around Blaenau-Ffestiniog, Bala, Harlech, Dolgellau, and Aberystwyth, covering more than 2,500 boulder problems.

Author(s): Mark Reeves & Mark Glaister

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9781873341933

A selective guidebook by Rockfax deswcribing the best rock climbing found in North Wales, covering Llanberis Pass, Cloggy, Ogwen, the Carneddau, Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the Ormes of Llandudno.

Author(s): S. Broadbent

Date: 2022

Volume 1 of this climbing guide contains more than 4700 routes on 89 crags in northern England and Wales / primarily 5 to 7b on the French scale.

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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Tue 6 Jun
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