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Idwal Slabs and Walls All Trad climbing 29 routes in crag

29
FR
2a2b+3a3b+4a4b+5a5b+6a6b6c7a

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Contents

Routes

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Grade Route

The East Wall Back to contents

The slabby, ramped wall on the left flank of the main slab.

2
VS East Wall Girdle Trad 150m, 7
3
VS 4c Heather Wall Trad 52m, 2
4
VS 4c Ash Tree Wall Trad 53m, 3

Suicide Wall Back to contents

6
E1 5b Suicide Groove Trad 34m, 2
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E2 5b Suicide Wall Route 2 Trad 46m
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E4 5c Capital Punishment Trad 49m, 2
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E2 5c Suicide Wall Route 1 Trad 30m

Rhiwiau Caws (Idwal Slab) Back to contents

The magnificent main slab.

11
HS 4a ★★ Tennis Shoe Trad 160m, 7

FA: N E Odell, 1919

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VS 4c ★★★ Tennis Shoe Direct Trad 360m
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D ★★ Ordinary Route Trad 140m, 4

FA: T K Rose & C C B Moss, 1897

14
VD ★★★ Hope Trad 150m
15
HS 4a Central Rib Trad
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16
S 4b ★ Charity Trad 160m, 4
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{AU} UK:VD ★ Faith Trad 150m

Holly Tree Wall Back to contents

19
HS 4a Cinderella Trad

Starts on the far left of the ledge.

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E2 5c ★★ The Scone Run Trad

starts a few meters right of Cinderella but careful not to go too far right. At about 8 meters, keep left of the protruding block.

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E1 5c ★★★ Rampart Corner Trad 45m

Starts a couple of meters right of The scone run, go right and under the protruding block, and up again following the crack system until you are forced onto the right hand slab for a few cruxy moves and onto a little ledge, then through the second crux to reach easier ground. Well protected.

FA: H I Banner & R Wilson, 1977

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VS 5a The Rampart Trad

Zig-zag your way up following the path of least resistance. starts right of Rampart corner but soon joins it, just to leave off to the right again when the corner gets hard.

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VS 5a ★ Original Route Trad 40m, 2

FA: I A RIchards, C F Holland & D E Piley, 1918

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HVS 5a ★ (Don't use a) Piton Blade Trad

Start on a vegetated patch and then follow the obvious crack that tends slightly leftwards. Very well protected.

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VS 4c Piton route Trad
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S ★★ Lazarus Trad 43m, 2
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HS 4b ★★ Javelin Gully Trad
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E1 5b Javelin Blade Trad 37m
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VS ★★ Javelin Buttress Trad 37m

Continuation Wall Back to contents

This is the obvious continuation for many routes on the "Holly Tree Wall". It is also accessible by foot (with a good scramble).

31
S 4b ★ Groove Above Trad 24m

FA: T S Knowles & H Poole, 1926

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HVS 5a ★★ Continuation crack Trad

Follows the thin crack in the middle of the central slab. Starts on the big step. Crux at the very start.

Idwal Buttress Back to contents

34
D Idwal Buttress Trad 400m

Scrambles Back to contents

36
Idwal Staircase and Continuation Trad

#scramble

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

South Snowdonia Bouldering Guidebook

Author(s): Terry Taylor

Date: 2024

ISBN: 9781805175414

A comprehensive guidebook describing all the bouldering in South Snowdonia around Blaenau-Ffestiniog, Bala, Harlech, Dolgellau, and Aberystwyth, covering more than 2,500 boulder problems.

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ⓘ
North Wales Climbs

Author(s): Mark Reeves & Mark Glaister

Date: 2023

ISBN: 9781873341933

A selective guidebook by Rockfax deswcribing the best rock climbing found in North Wales, covering Llanberis Pass, Cloggy, Ogwen, the Carneddau, Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the Ormes of Llandudno.

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ⓘ
Sport Climbing in England and Wales Vol 1 North

Author(s): S. Broadbent

Date: 2022

Volume 1 of this climbing guide contains more than 4700 routes on 89 crags in northern England and Wales / primarily 5 to 7b on the French scale.

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ⓘ

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Nearby Icons

HS 4a ★★ Tennis Shoe
E1 5c ★★★ Rampart Corner

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