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Lower Tier Mostly Sport climbing 17 routes in sector

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 4
17
YDS
5.75.85.95.10a5.10c5.11a5.11c5.12a

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Access issues inherited from Upper West

Crag Vermont administers the land, with online climber registration:

https://forms.gle/iBdQXATv5DLhNASL6

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.11b PG Bilateral Symmetry Mixed trad 50ft, 1
2
5.12a Oompah Loompah Sport 50ft, 7
3
5.11b Normandy Sport 50ft, 7
4
5.8 ★★ The Bookend / The 5.7 Corner Trad 60ft

Climb the obvious left-facing corning with a thin crack at the back. Gear is thin and tricky at times.

5
5.10c Kontos's Sport Route Sport 60ft, 6
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6
5.8 ★★ Erica's Ass Crack / The 5.7+ Corner Trad 60ft

Get onto the route by pulling a hard (for the grade) boulder problem. Then some great climbing up a dihedral, step right over the arrete when you can, and continue up the face to a final steep section before the anchor.

7
5.9 Myopic Glory Sport 50ft
8
5.11+ Mind The 'mudgeon Sport 60ft
9
5.8 Beginner's Luck Sport 55ft
10
5.10c/d Rented Mule Sport 60ft
11
5.10b Fresh Meat Sport 80ft
12
5.11a Paradox Sport 60ft
13
5.11a Against The Grain Trad 75ft
14
5.7 Public Property Sport 45ft
15
5.9 Peachy Canoodle Sport 55ft
16
5.9 Stone Staircase Sport 70ft
17
5.9 R The Lorax Trad 200ft, 2

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

New England Bouldering - 3rd Edition

Author(s): Tim Kemple

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9781938393303

From the granite blocks of Lincoln Woods, Rhode Island, to the schist of Smugglers' Notch, Vermont, you're bound to find your next problem in the New England Bouldering guidebook.

  • Comprehensive, revised 3rd edition features more than 1,200 boulder problems at some of the best bouldering areas throughout New England
  • Detailed maps help you find your next bouldering challenge with ease
Buy
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5.8 ★★ Erica's Ass Crack

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