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Upper Tier Mostly Sport climbing 18 routes in sector

  • Grade context: US
  • Ascents: 3
18
YDS
5.85.95.10a5.10c5.11a5.11c5.12a

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Access issues inherited from Upper West

Crag Vermont administers the land, with online climber registration:

https://forms.gle/iBdQXATv5DLhNASL6

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Routes

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Grade Route
1
5.10a Take Back Vermont Sport 60ft, 4
2
5.10b Take Vermont from Behind Sport 50ft, 5
3
5.8 Bel Acceuil / Birch Tree Corner Trad 100ft
4
5.9 Dr. Dias Mixed trad 100ft, 4
5
5.12b Featherweight Champion Sport 70ft
6
5.12a Mal Bouche / The Roof Crack Mixed trad 110ft, 2, 1

P1. 5.11a climb up to the anchor below roof. P2. 5.12a Out the finger crack in the 8ft roof, to the moderate splitter above.

P2 var: 5.8+ PG. from anchor traverse out right, pull easily onto upper face, then back left to crack.

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7
5.8 ★★★ Ledangier / Chockstone Trad 110ft

(also, apparently, sometimes incorrectly called Captain's Crack)

8
5.10d (unknown) Trad 110ft

Crack past the right end of the ledge.

9
5.11c Bungasana Sport 60ft
10
5.11c/d Hippie With A Hand Grenade Sport 65ft

Areas

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11
Left End sector
 All Sport climbing
8
0
46ft

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

New England Bouldering - 3rd Edition

Author(s): Tim Kemple

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9781938393303

From the granite blocks of Lincoln Woods, Rhode Island, to the schist of Smugglers' Notch, Vermont, you're bound to find your next problem in the New England Bouldering guidebook.

  • Comprehensive, revised 3rd edition features more than 1,200 boulder problems at some of the best bouldering areas throughout New England
  • Detailed maps help you find your next bouldering challenge with ease
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5.8 ★★★ Ledangier

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