New York Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. New York 5,276 routes in Region

26 25 36 45 3 20 27 21 28 22 4 37 16 24 18 23 17 7 38 29 43 42 8 33 44 35 32 19 1 30 5 6 31 34 9 10 39 13 41 40 14 11 15 2 12

1 Shawangunks 2 New York City 3 Adirondacks 4 Little Falls 5 West Point 6 Harriman State Park 7 Thacher State Park 8 Catskills 9 Armonk Cliffs 10 East Marion 11 Island Rock Gym 12 Steep Rock Bouldering 13 The Cliffs at Valhalla 14 The Rock Club 15 The Gravity Vault - Melville 16 The Edge 17 A.I.R. - Albanys Indoor Rockgym 18 The Court Club 19 The Gravity Vault 20 Rocksport Climbing Gym 21 The Ledge 22 JCC Family Sports and Fitness 23 Clark Sports Center 24 Angert Family Climbing Gym at Colgate University 25 Munro Family Climbing Gym 26 AIR Climbing Facility, Adventures in Reality 27 Rock Ventures 28 Red Barn Climbing 29 Lindseth Climbing Gym 30 Ice Pond 31 Tea Town Boulders 32 Hyde Park Boulders 33 Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall 34 Powerlinez 35 Bear Caves 36 Glenmeal 37 Clarks Reservation Bouldering 38 Table Rock 39 East Marion Boulders 40 Split Rock 41 Wildwood State Park 42 Rock City State Forest 43 Belfast Pillars 44 Z-Loft 45 Payne Lake

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 42.879390, -75.521893

1.1. Shawangunks 1,944 routes in Crag

4 1 5 10 9 2 3

1 The Trapps 2 The Near Trapps 3 Millbrook Mountain 4 Sky Top 5 Lost City 9 Peterskill 10 The Inner Wall, Inc.

Summary:

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 41.624977, -74.316808

description

The Gunks (short for Shawangunks) is one of the premier climbing areas in the country. Located near New Paltz, NY, the Gunks is about 85 miles from the NYC metropolitan area, making it a popular weekend destination. The rock is quartz conglomerate, solid rock with horizontal rather than vertical cracks. Climbing at the Gunks is characterized by roofs, jugs, traverses, big air, and sometimes "sporty" pro. The Gunks is famous for great one-to-three-pitch climbs of all levels of difficulty. You'll find some of the best easy and moderate trad climbs in the country at the Gunks. There are a few bolted climbs at the Gunks, but no sport climbs.

The ratings at the Gunks are stiff; beware of a climb with a "+" at the end of its rating. Climbs like Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Direct (5.7+), Something Interesting (5.7+), Modern Times (5.8+), Broken Sling (5.8+), Le Teton (5.9+), and Coexistence (5.10+) will seem like sandbags to many climbers. Climbing overhanging rock, even with jugs, requires endurance and commitment. Most climbers new to the Gunks drop down a few grades in their first leads to get a feel for the rock, the ratings, and to learn how to place pro in the horizontal cracks.

The best time to climb at the Gunks is during the fall: September and October are the prime climbing season. Mid-October brings the fall colors to the area, and climbers will have to vie with "leaf peepers" for restaurants and places to stay in New Paltz. Climbing in the spring is also popular, but tends to be wetter and more buggy. Summer is hot and humid (don't miss the swimming hole), and winter offers a few climbable days. New Paltz weather forecast

The Gunks is one of the oldest climbing areas in the country. Fritz Wiessner first climbed at the Gunks in 1935, and he and Hans Kraus put up many classic routes in the 1940s. High Exposure, established in 1941, remains one of the most exposed and exciting 5.6 routes any climber will ever do, and should be on every visiting climber's tick list.

Most of the Gunks is part of the Mohonk Preserve, a land trust dedicated to preserving and protecting the northern Shawangunk Ridge. Climbers must pay a $17 daily fee to climb at the Gunks, or else buy an annual pass for $90 (amounts as of 2011). Stop at the Visitor's Center, on Rt. 44/55 just below the cliffs, for more information.

access issues

The main cliffs at the Gunks are The Trapps and The Near Trapps. The Trapps is several miles long, and ranges in height from 30' to over 250'. A convenient gravel carriage road traverses under the cliff for its entire length, and designated access trails climb from the carriage road through the talus to the cliff. Access to most climbs at the Trapps involves hiking along the carriage road for 5 minutes to a half hour, followed by a short hike up to the rock. Some of the climbs on the left end of the Trapps start right off the carriage road. Parking exists at the Mohonk Preserve and day passes are required for entry.

The Nears is also a popular destination, with climbs ranging in height from 30' to 200'. While not as extensive as The Trapps, the Nears offers many excellent routes with short approaches. The near (north) end is most popular, but there are good climbs farther down the cliff as well.

Around 2000, the Mohonk Preserve installed around 40 two-bolt belays spread out among routes in the Trapps, Nears, and Lost City. There is one dedicated rappel line, just north of High E, which can be rappelled with one 50m rope.

Millbrook is more remote and offers adventurous climbing for those wanting to get off the beaten path. This area is frequented more by Gunks locals than first-time visiting climbers. The approach is roughly an hour along pleasant rambling trails, and Westward Ha! is worth the walk!

Sky Top has many classic routes, and was closed for over ten years by the landowner (the Mohonk Mountain House, an exclusive and expensive resort). As of April 2007 climbing is LEGAL at Sky Top once again - IF, and only if, you are there as a client of their only approved guide service, Alpine Endeavors.

Peterskill, in Minnewaska State Park, is another popular Gunks climbing destination, offering single-pitch climbs, top-roping, and bouldering. Follow directions to The Trapps and continue on Rt. 44/55 for about a mile past the steel bridge to get to the park entrance. A separate admission fee is charged.

Other Gunks climbing areas, such as ?? and Bonticou, are under-documented by local tradition. Climbing here is by word of mouth; go with a Gunks local or perhaps get information at Rock & Snow, the local climbing shop in New Paltz.

approach

By Plane

The out-of-state climber may want to fly into Newark Liberty International Airport (EWR), La Guardia Airport (LGA), or Stewart International Airport (SWF), rent a car, and drive to New Paltz.

Newark Liberty to New Paltz: 97 miles, 1 hour and 39 minutes. Directions from Newark Liberty Airport to New Paltz Hostel

La Guardia to New Paltz: 87 miles, 1 hour and 38 minutes. Directions from La Guardia Airport to New Paltz Hostel

Stewart International Airport is the closest commercial airport to the Gunks. The airport is a quiet regional hub; you rarely have to wait in line, and you can arrive at the airport less than an hour before your flight. Connections to and from here may be limited, however.

Stewart International to New Paltz: 22 miles, 28 minutes. Directions from Stewart International Airport to New Paltz Hostel

More on arranging transportation: Getting around

By Car

To get to New Paltz: take the New York State Thruway (Interstate 87) to exit 18 (New Paltz/Poughkeepsie). Pass the toll booth and go to the first traffic light. Turn left at the light onto Rt. 299 West. Follow 299 several miles into New Paltz, where it becomes Main St.

To get to the Gunks from New Paltz: continue on Rt. 299 for 7 miles until it intersects with Rt. 44/55 (The Brauhaus, Bistro and EMS are at this intersection). Turn right and continue about 1.5 miles up the hill to reach the Mohonk Preserve Visitor's Center. Stop here for maps, information, and to buy daily or annual passes (you can also get passes from the rangers on the carriage road). The Warwarsing parking area, which provides convenient access for climbs on the right side of the Trapps, lies just beyond the Visitor's Center. The West Trapps parking area, used to access the left side of the Trapps and the Near Trapps, lies up the hill, beyond the big hairpin turn, just past a steel bridge. There are also parking areas at the hairpin turn, and at the top of the hill just before the steel bridge, but these are posted as 30-minute parking only (may or may not be often enforced by the local or state police, depending on season and mood).

By Bus

Trailways has a bus terminal in New Paltz, right next to the New Paltz Hostel, but it's most convenient to have a car to get to the cliffs. 139 Main St. New Paltz, NY 12561 800-776-7548

where to stay

HOSTELS and MOTELS

New Paltz Hostel is located near downtown and right next to the bus station. A variety of accommodations is available for $30/person/night. Free internet access and a shared kitchen are part of the amenities. Reservations recommended for weekends. Off-street parking is available. 145 Main Street New Paltz, NY 12561 845-255-6676

87 Motel is the cheapest motel in New Paltz. Older, on the edge of town, it is suitable for the budget-minded climber. 403 Main Street New Paltz, NY 12561 Local - 845-255-9220 Toll free - 800-879-8787

Super 8 of New Paltz tripadvisor.com rates Super 8 as the best motel in New Paltz. 7 Terwilliger Ln. New Paltz, NY 12561 845-255-8865

Rodeway Inn and Suites People seem to like the suites, but it has gotten mixed reviews. 601 Main Street New Paltz, NY 12561 845-883-7373

Econo Lodge gets bad reviews from tripadvisor.com 530 Main St. New Paltz, NY 12561 Local - 845-255-6200 Toll free - 800-424-4777

Bed and Breakfasts are available if you want a more 'romantic' getaway, or just space to lounge around in. B&Bs start around $100+/night (call around) per couple for lodging and breakfast. Because the Culinary Institute is nearby, most B&B breakfasts are quite a feast! Given that even the econo-lodges are $80/night and up without food, B&Bs can be a reasonable option, especially for cooler days when the sun sets early.

Mohonk Mountain House is great if you've just won the millionaire lottery!

CAMPING

NY State DEC Multi-Use Area®ion=New%20Paltz%20Region is located on Route 299 just a half-mile from Rt 44/55 in Gardiner. Camping is free, but there are no amenities or reservations. Get here early during the busy season. For more info, contact DEC Regional OfficeBold Text South Putt Corners Road New Paltz, NY 12561 845-256-3024

2011 update: ATTENTION SHANGUNK MULTIPLE USE AREA CAMPERS Due to continued impact on public health, safety and environmental resources at the Shawangunk Multiple Use Area, the number of designated campsites is being reduced to 9.

All designated camp sites will be on the south side of the road and large enough to accommodate the legal limit of up to 9 campers per site. Groups are encouraged to share campsites in order to allow the maximum number of 81 campers.

Parking will only be allowed in the main parking lot on the south side of the road, the same side of the road as camping. The parking lot on the north side of the road will be blocked off to prevent the public (campers) from parking there and crossing the road to camp. Parking along the shoulder of route 299 will be prohibited to limit traffic/pedestrian issues.

Any questions should be directed to Jeffrey Wiegert at (845) 256-3084

Trapps Camp (aka Camp Slime)®ion=New%20Paltz%20Region: Located in the Mohonk Preserve, near the steel bridge. It's a bare-bones site in the woods with a depressing quality; recommended only to climbers on a severely limited budget. Contact the Mohonk Preserve for more info.

Yogi Bear's is an RV-style family campground in Gardiner, at 50 Bevier Rd.

Creek View in Rosendale, ~7 miles from New Paltz, has flat, grassy tent sites with picnic tables, showers, and there is plenty of hot water for dishes. The owner, Bill, makes it a point to enforce quiet hours (11pm to 7am). Other privately owned campgrounds are charging 3x what Bill charges. He also has full hookups for those with RVs or just wanting some electricity. His monthly rate is the best in the area, by far.

ethic

Due to the abundance of horizontal cracks and the limited number of vertical cracks, most Gunks routes have "PG" protection: adequate but not great, although many gear ratings were applied before small cams were invented. The horizontal cracks are great for small Tricams: the pink and red are especially useful. Small-to-medium cams with flexible shafts also work well. Climbs rarely need pro larger than 3". Hexes are not often carried, but sometimes work well.

Fixed pro is sometimes available, but many of the pins are "old and rusted and shouldn't be trusted". Bring a screamer or two for the questionable pin or bolt.

A "Standard Rack" for the Gunks:

• a set of micronuts (RPs, HB offsets, BD micro stoppers) - very often useful for 5.10 and above.
• a set of wired nuts (#3-#13 BD Stoppers or equivalent)
• black, pink, red, and brown Tricams (some climbers double up on the smaller sizes)
• blue, green, yellow, gray, and red Aliens (or equivalent)
• #.75, #1, #2, and #3 Camalots (or equivalent)
• 10-12 extendable runners (24" sewn slings)
• 1 or 2 long runners (48" sewn slings or rabbit runners)
• A Yates Screamer

Additional gear that is useful on some climbs:

• extra cams in the .5" to 2" range - very useful for new Gunks leaders
• a very small cam (black Alien or equivalent)
• a large cam (#4 Camalot or equivalent)
• a set of Trango Ball Nutz (#1, #2, #3). There are several 'new' moderate routes in the Nears, put up by Dick Williams and partners, which rely heavily on Ball Nutz for protection; caveat emptor.
• larger Tricams (purple #2, black #2.5)
• medium-sized hexes (BD #6-#8)

The amount of gear that you carry will depend on the climb, your experience, ability, and familiarity with the route and with the Gunks. If you're new to the Gunks, err on the side of taking a little more gear rather than a little less.

Many routes can be climbed and rappelled with a single 60m rope. Double ropes can be handy, however, with the traverses, wandering pro, and roofs encountered on the typical Gunks climb, and come in handy to descend in fewer rappels.

Many popular routes have bolted rap stations, but sometimes trees are used for rap anchors. Bring some webbing along in case you need to beef up a sling anchor on a tree.

Two-way radios can be useful for communicating past the big roofs often encountered on Gunks climbs. High Exposure, Disneyland, and especially Shockley's Ceiling are routes where radios can be much more effective than shouting.

1.1.1. The Trapps 967 routes in Area

Summary:

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 41.746009, -74.180876

1.1.2. The Near Trapps 231 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 41.734467, -74.197759

1.1.3. Millbrook Mountain 105 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 41.707834, -74.226462

1.1.4. Sky Top 347 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 41.764755, -74.154012

1.1.5. Lost City 13 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 41.744480, -74.197154

description

Lost City is a semi-secret crag within the Mohonk Preserve.

approach

Accessed from the Coxing Trailhead

ethic

The crag is traditionally undocumented. No guidebooks are published about it, and all information about climbs has been removed from sites like Mountain Project and RockClimbing.com.

The stated intent is to preserve a spirit of adventure and solitude (though it also keeps crowds away and preserves parking spots for non-climbers). Info about the crag is meant to be obtained through word-of-mouth from people in the community.

1.1.6. Bonticou 2 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Rock climbing

1.1.7. New Paltz 2 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Rock climbing

1.1.8. Hemlock Rock 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.1.9. Peterskill 275 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing, Top roping and other styles

Lat / Long: 41.739644, -74.215805

1.1.10. The Inner Wall, Inc. 0 routes in Gym

description

234 Main St.

New Paltz

New York 12561 USA

http://www.theinnerwall.com/

call: (845) 255-ROCK. 845-255-7625

1.2. New York City 102 routes in Crag

5 1 12 9 8 13 10 7 14 6 11 3

1 Central Park 3 Mannor Park 5 Fort Tryon Park 6 Powerplay Recreational Center 7 Chelsea Piers Fitness 8 Crunch 9 The Sports Club/LA 10 The Cliffs at LIC 11 Aviator Sports and Recreation 12 Rebock Sports Club 13 Manhattan Plaza Health Club Climbing Gym 14 Brooklyn Boulders

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 40.742044, -74.030223

1.2.1. Central Park 75 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 40.782800, -73.965644

history

While the history of the park is well documented, the history of climbing activity in the park is not. There are no formal annals of ascent. Information as such is so vague and informal, with these qualities reaching far back into the shrouded recess of the unremembered past, that the concept of a first ascent is questionable at best and commonly considered absurd by most locals. It is important to keep in mind that since the time of the Golden Age of Alpinism, thousands of climbers have visited Central Park; including such notables as George Mallory, John Gill and Lynn Hill. In the 60s, Art Gran, Jim McCarthy and other "Vulgarians" from the Gunks made several forays into Central Park. Consequently, the entrenched attitude is, "Everything has probably been done already." (Nick Falacci, 2003)

1.2.2. Central Park West Outcrops 4 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.2.3. Mannor Park 6 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 40.588506, -74.126353

1.2.4. New Roc City 0 routes in Area

1.2.5. Fort Tryon Park 17 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 40.865509, -73.931871

description

Access to Fort Tryon Park can be easily done by bike, car or train. Parking is available around the Cloisters museum . Once out, head north into the park walking along the Margaret Corbin Drive until you reach a rightward trending bridge. Take the obvious path on the east side heading down before crossing the bridge. Life is beautiful boulder is on the corner next to the tunnel.

access issues

NYC laws state top rope is not allowed in city limits

approach

The A train to 190th St.or Dyckman St. is the easiest way to get here

1.2.6. Powerplay Recreational Center 0 routes in Gym

description

432 Third Avenue

Brooklyn

New York 11215 USA

http://www.powerplaykids.com/

call: (718) 369-9880

1.2.7. Chelsea Piers Fitness 0 routes in Gym

description

Pier 60 - W. 20th St.

New York

New York 10011 USA

https://www.chelseapiers.com/fitness/rock-climbing/overview/

call: 212-336-6083

1.2.8. Crunch 0 routes in Gym

description

1109 2nd Ave

New York

New York 10022 USA

https://www.crunch.com/locations/e-59th-st

call: 212-758-3434

1.2.9. The Sports Club/LA 0 routes in Gym

description

330 E. 61st St.

New York

New York 10021 USA

https://www.equinox.com/clubs/new-york/uptown/east61st

call: (212) 355-5100

1.2.10. The Cliffs at LIC 0 routes in Gym

description

11-11 44th Dr

Long Island City

New York 11101 USA

https://lic.thecliffsclimbing.com/

call: (718) 729-ROCK (7625)

1.2.11. Aviator Sports and Recreation 0 routes in Gym

description

Floyd Bennett Field - Hangar 5

Brooklyn

New York 11234 USA

http://www.aviatorsports.com/things-to-do/rock-climbing/

call: (718) 758-7500

1.2.12. Rebock Sports Club 0 routes in Gym

description

68th street and Columbus

New York

New York USA

https://www.equinox.com/clubs/new-york/uptown/sportsclubnewyork

call: (212) 362-6800

1.2.13. Manhattan Plaza Health Club Climbing Gym 0 routes in Gym

description

482 West 43rd St.

New York

New York 10036 USA

http://www.mphc.com/facilities/rock-climbing-gym/

call: (212) 563-7001

1.2.14. Brooklyn Boulders 0 routes in Gym

description

575 Degraw Street

Brooklyn

New York 11217 USA

https://brooklynboulders.com/brooklyn/

call: (347) 834-9066

1.3. Adirondacks 2,025 routes in Crag

85 81 80 1 79 82 84 7 107 106 108 13 83 12 8 86 9 78 109 105 101 100 21 4 60 104 103 102 50 59 39 47 2 43 77 42 33 35 24 37 26 6 34 28 32 29 30 49 36 31 40 25 99 46 48 56 27 41 38 98 62 44 97 53 54 58 57 55 51 52 87 45 61 75 18 10 11 15 90 94 91 95 19 92 93 88 96 3 76 14 16 89 66 70 72 71 74 68 69 73 63 67 65 64

1 Silver Lake 2 Keene 3 Lake George 4 Cascade Pass 6 Wallface 7 Poke-O-Moonshine 8 Baker Mountain 9 Mckenzie Pond Boulders 10 Gull Pond 11 Pharoah Mountain 12 Notch Mountain Slab 13 Moss Cliff 14 Crane Mountain 15 Huckleberry Mountain 16 Shanty Cliffs 18 Eagle Falls 19 Old Forge Region 21 Pitchoff North 24 Lower Washbowl Cliffs 25 Spanky's Area 26 White Water Walls 27 Backwater Wall 28 Shipton's Arete 29 The Aquarium 30 Tanager Face 31 The King Wall 32 Tilman's Arete 33 Roaring Brook Falls 34 Martini Wall 35 Washbowl Pond 36 Emperor Slab 37 Flexible Flier Wall 38 Boxcar 39 Valleyland 40 Mt Colden 41 Panther Gorge 42 Wright Peak 43 Rooster Comb Mtn 44 Dix Mtn. 45 Ragged Mountain 46 Pyramid Peak 47 The Courthouse 48 Boquet River Crags 49 Avalanche Mountain 50 Porter Mountain 51 Deadwater 52 Sharp Bridge Campground 53 King Phillips Spring Wall 54 Highway Blues Slab 55 Steve Austin 56 Camalot Cliff 57 The Beyond 58 The Crown 59 The Honey Pot 60 Split Rock Canyon 61 Little Johnson 62 Makomis Mountain Cliff 63 Nine Corner Lake 64 Pinnacle Pullout 65 Green Lake Boulders 66 Cliff-Band Bouldering At Panther Mt. 67 Otter Lake Cliff 68 Lost T 69 Good Luck Mountain 70 West Mountain 71 Statebrook 72 Lost Hunters 73 Pinnacle Mountain 74 The Choss Factory 75 Beaver River 76 Ice Cave Mountain 77 Joe Indian Island 78 Bluff Island 79 South Colton 80 Azure Mountain 81 Loon Lake Mtn 82 Catamount 83 Twin Falls Cliff 84 Charcoal Kiln Quarry 85 Inman Slabs 86 Pulpit Rock 87 Rich Lake 88 Chimney Mountain 89 Lake Pleasant Quarry 90 Starbuck Mountain 91 Moxham Mountain 92 Hooper Garnet Mine 93 Snowy Mt 94 Sugarloaf 95 Cedar River Crag 96 Chatiemac Cliff 97 Coney Mountain 98 Cat Mountain 99 South Bay Roadcut 100 Pitchoff Ridge Domes 101 The Barkeater Cliff 102 Spruce Hill Crag 103 Typhoon Wall 104 Ufo Wall 105 Little Crow Mountain 106 Bear Den 107 Beaver Brook 108 Polar Soldier Wall 109 Cobble Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing, Bouldering and other styles

Lat / Long: 43.942851, -74.316080

summary

Huge state park with lots of rock, from easily approachable to back country.

description

Adirondack state park is the largest state in the contiguous 48 states, and covers some 6.1 million acres of land in north-eastern New York state. There is climbing scattered throughout the park, but the concentration is greatest in the north-east centered around Keene.

The guidebook for the area is Adirondack Rock: A Rock Climber's Guide by Jim Lawyer and Jeremy Haas. This is an excellent and exhaustive guide to the climbing in the park. They also supply excellent ongoing support on their website, http://www.adirondackrock.com/ . Along with errata, they supply PDFs of the topos for most of the larger cliffs so you don't have to photocopy or rip-out the topos for the multi-pitch climbs, as well as updates on new development (e.g. some 145 routes on 15 cliffs in the Silver Lake and Potter mountain areas).

approach

Varies from cliff to cliff and crag to crag. At the short end, e.g. "Chapel Pond Slab" it is about a minute -- and most people rack up at their car. At the long end, with some of the back-country cliffs, you would be looking at several hours to a day for the approach. And, some cliffs have water approaches.

where to stay

Camping in the park is one option -- groups of up to 10 people can camp anywhere as long as it is more than 150ft from a road, water path, or trail. Camping is allowed up to 3 days without a permit, and no more than 2 weeks at any one location even with a permit (available by phone from the Forest Ranger Office.)

There are, also, numerous small towns throughout the park, and this is holiday and cottage country. So, there are also numerous hotels and motels at various levels of fancy -- especially in the Lake Placid area -- as well as cottage rentals around.

1.3.1. Silver Lake 44 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 44.518092, -73.820191

summary

More than 14 cliffs on two mountains - Silver Lake Mountain and Potter Mountain. No camping at the lake, but there is camping nearby. Very buggy in the summer, so be equipped!

1.3.2. Keene 257 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.175013, -73.731116

1.3.3. Lake George 145 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 43.604785, -73.624204

summary

Great area with climbing at all levels, close to swimming and free camping. A long climb season, short and multi pitch routes, and a mix of sport and trad make this area a real gem.

description

Ten areas that include short pitches of both sport and trad, 700' walls for multi-pitch, and bouldering make Lake George a great area for everyone's climbing interests. Camping along the long dirt road on the way to the crag is free and first come, first served. Cooling off is possible via a short walk down to the lakeside. Bustling nearby town of Lake George has all amenities you could possibly need. When I've been here, it's never been busy - a real hidden gem.

access issues

Road is long and dirt - can get very muddy and is almost impassible if the spring is wet. Dry in summer. Single lane road for two-way traffic, so be wary of on-coming cars.

approach

From Route 87, take 149 toward Fort Ann. Turn left onto Buttermilk Falls Road immediately after passing Vertical Farm. Follow Buttermilk Falls Road until a slight left turns it into Sly Pond Road. Continue to follow, keeping right at the juction with Millers Way to stay on Sly Pond. At the intersection with Hog Town Road, continue straight as the road becomes Shelving Rock Road. Keep left at the Y to stay on Shelving Rock Road. Free primitive camping is along this part of the road. Parking along the road in designated areas only.

where to stay

Primitive camping along Shelving Rock Road first come, first served. If not, there's lots of camping areas around Lake George. There are many hotels, motels and the like in the town of Lake George, but book early because the summer gets busy in that area for reasons other than climbing.

1.3.4. Cascade Pass 49 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.238853, -73.855835

description

route 73 between Keene and Lake Placid

1.3.5. Gothics 5 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

description

The Gothics is a peak of about 4800' in the High Peaks area of the Adirondack park. There are three main climbing zones up Gothics -- the North Face, a 1200' slab, the south face -- about 600' of slab, and the Rainbow Slide on the east face. The approaches tend to be fairly long and involved, and the routes fairly serious for their grade.

The Gothics peak on google maps: http://maps.google.ca/?ll=44.127367,-73.85366&spn=0.026831,0.066047&t=p&z=15

1.3.6. Wallface 10 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.138169, -74.035655

1.3.7. Poke-O-Moonshine 172 routes in Crag

Summary:

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 44.396753, -73.503250

summary

Lots of good, longish, routes with easy approaches.

description

Poke-O Moonshine is a mountain in the north-east of the Adirondack park. It has a number of cliffs on it, though the main climbing is on the east face of the mountain, the (up to) 400' "Main Face", the south face is less steep, with the 500' Poke-O Moonshine Slab. There are various other cliffs above the main face, and upwards towards the peak.

access issues

Most of the cliffs are on state land, but the land between the Main Face and the highway, as well as much of the northern section of the Main Face are on private land. The campground is now closed to camping, and locals warn against defying this. Updates can be found here.

approach

10-25 minutes, generally easy.

Usually park at the campground and take the trails from there, but the slab would be approached from farther south on US 9.

where to stay

Do not stay at the former campground (now strictly a parking lot). New york wild camping law applies.

1.3.8. Baker Mountain 5 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.334288, -74.104316

1.3.9. Mckenzie Pond Boulders 63 routes in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.308178, -74.097214

1.3.10. Gull Pond 13 routes in Crag

Summary:

Rock climbing, Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.832537, -73.705806

summary

The cliff on the east side of Gull Pond

description

Beware of mosquitoes

approach

From the main yellow-blazed trail, proceed to a small trail that goes around the pond clockwise. You will pass a campsite fire pit and outhouse, and cross a small stream or two. Find the middle of the talus and scramble up it to reach the bottom of the cliff.

1.3.11. Pharoah Mountain 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 43.813024, -73.653671

1.3.12. Notch Mountain Slab 7 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 44.335576, -73.896901

1.3.13. Moss Cliff 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.340254, -73.900044

description

Locazed on top of Wilmington Notch overlooking Route 86.

approach

Rt 86 just east of Lake Placid.

1.3.14. Crane Mountain 269 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.544181, -73.956658

description

Located off the beaten track (a.k.a. The Northway), Crane Mountain is a popular hiking destination that is also dotted with cliffs, crags, and boulders. Some of these areas are minutes from the trailhead, others lie two hour's strenuous and uncertain bushwhacking to reach. The Boulderwoods are the most convenient and popular locale, and with about a hundred problems recorded, provide plenty of entertainment for boulderers. The Measles Walls lie fifteen mintues east of the trailhead. This collection of short crags has the only cluster of sport routes, along with a few trad lines. It isn't a major destination, but when time is limited or the weather too cold for long routes, these fill the void. Continuing east, several small crags lie along height of land. These have seen recent development, and now hold some excellent short routes, as well as longer, alpine-style meandering lines. The eastern path ends at the Black Arches Wall, where some of the best climbing on Crane Mountain can be found. Following the hiker's trail north toward the summit, climbers will find crags like Tablerock Corner and the Viewpoint Slab to pass some time; or they can head directly to the top for any of dozens of great routes there. With the publishing of the new guidebook, Adirondack Rock, a few of these climbing areas are now visited frequently. Still, none of the crags is ever crowded.

1.3.15. Huckleberry Mountain 6 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.782456, -74.265389

1.3.16. Shanty Cliffs 40 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 43.536062, -74.151029

1.3.17. Buck Mountain 0 routes in Area

1.3.18. Eagle Falls 43 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 43.904497, -75.195439

description

Beautiful crag 40 minutes east of Lowville, NY. Easy access with a 10 minute approach. 40 routes overlooking a raging stream with several waterfalls.

approach

Parking lot 10 minutes south of Soft Maple Reservoir 40 minutes west of Lowville on Beaver River Road

descent notes

Cross under a large pipe across from parking lot. You will go down a set of wooden stairs and then cross the river... rock hop in low water season. Hidden plank upstream in high water season

history

Thorough beta available in the Adirondack Rock guide book.

1.3.19. Old Forge Region 19 routes in Area

Summary:

Bouldering and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.730145, -74.963308

1.3.20. High Peaks Wilderness 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.3.21. Pitchoff North 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 44.246684, -73.874888

description

Some of the best moderate ice climbing in the Adirondack Park can be found in this fairly remote area. There are more climbs than there are parking spaces. The northern exposure and higher elevation ensures that NFOP comes in early and stays climbable late in the season. It can be cold and windy, especially early in the season. The climbs are mostly single pitch NEI 4 or long multi pitch NEI 3 to 3+.

approach

NFOP can be reached from the Jackrabbit ski trail. Take the 'Old Mountain Road" off Rt 73 just north of Mt Van Ho on the right heading towards Lake Placid. This is a dirt road and 4WD is advisable, especially late in the season when the road turns into a mudfest in the afternoon. There is room to park about 6 or 7 cars at the end of the road. Parties arriving with multiple vehicles should try and park at the base of Old Mountain Road and carpool the rest of the way to keep as many spots open as possible. The Jackrabbit Trail begins at the parking area. You MUST wear skis or snowshoes on the Jackrabbit Trail when it is skiable (8 inches of snow or more). The Rangers have been known to stake out the parking lot at the end of the day and ticket climbers who "bareboot" the Jackrabbit Trail. The climbs are visible from the trail, the approach is 30-45 minutes depending where you climb.

1.3.22. Spanky's Wall 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.3.23. King Wall 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.3.24. Lower Washbowl Cliffs 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.144528, -73.751199

1.3.25. Spanky's Area 14 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.128032, -73.724068

1.3.26. White Water Walls 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.140564, -73.746475

1.3.27. Backwater Wall 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.112386, -73.700443

1.3.28. Shipton's Arete 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.138153, -73.746639

1.3.29. The Aquarium 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.137711, -73.744051

1.3.30. Tanager Face 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.137171, -73.745839

1.3.31. The King Wall 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.132277, -73.744225

1.3.32. Tilman's Arete 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.137991, -73.746491

1.3.33. Roaring Brook Falls 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.150463, -73.766661

1.3.34. Martini Wall 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.138360, -73.747934

1.3.35. Washbowl Pond 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.144582, -73.740576

1.3.36. Emperor Slab 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.134369, -73.743351

1.3.37. Flexible Flier Wall 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.141445, -73.743283

1.3.38. Boxcar 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.108272, -73.720406

1.3.39. Valleyland 24 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.184663, -73.826590

1.3.40. Mt Colden 5 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 44.128133, -73.959583

1.3.41. Panther Gorge 39 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.112241, -73.907501

1.3.42. Wright Peak 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.151763, -73.979492

1.3.43. Rooster Comb Mtn 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.172239, -73.811545

1.3.44. Dix Mtn. 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.082191, -73.786425

1.3.45. Ragged Mountain 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.960879, -73.862775

1.3.46. Pyramid Peak 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.120115, -73.856611

1.3.47. The Courthouse 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.176549, -73.844174

1.3.48. Boquet River Crags 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.116932, -73.744600

1.3.49. Avalanche Mountain 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.136282, -73.969116

1.3.50. Porter Mountain 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.207775, -73.827660

1.3.51. Deadwater 23 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.060871, -73.664156

1.3.52. Sharp Bridge Campground 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.042973, -73.674242

1.3.53. King Phillips Spring Wall 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.076355, -73.670495

1.3.54. Highway Blues Slab 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.074903, -73.673483

1.3.55. Steve Austin 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.071425, -73.686921

1.3.56. Camalot Cliff 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.113747, -73.685014

1.3.57. The Beyond 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.072542, -73.699586

1.3.58. The Crown 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.074334, -73.689889

1.3.59. The Honey Pot 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.202522, -73.546111

1.3.60. Split Rock Canyon 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.225601, -73.385843

1.3.61. Little Johnson 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.955481, -73.714298

1.3.62. Makomis Mountain Cliff 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.085673, -73.667614

1.3.63. Nine Corner Lake 294 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.199425, -74.537319

1.3.64. Pinnacle Pullout 61 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.167342, -74.500154

1.3.65. Green Lake Boulders 16 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.179213, -74.506676

1.3.66. Cliff-Band Bouldering At Panther Mt. 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.413576, -74.562045

1.3.67. Otter Lake Cliff 16 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.193614, -74.496524

1.3.68. Lost T 21 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.260796, -74.522209

1.3.69. Good Luck Mountain 12 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.249017, -74.557004

1.3.70. West Mountain 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.362621, -73.967783

1.3.71. Statebrook 33 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.269531, -74.568340

1.3.72. Lost Hunters 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.270510, -74.518283

1.3.73. Pinnacle Mountain 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.221322, -74.382416

1.3.74. The Choss Factory 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.261808, -74.560842

1.3.75. Beaver River 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.911840, -74.919834

1.3.76. Ice Cave Mountain 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.578996, -74.883333

1.3.77. Joe Indian Island 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.167593, -74.836839

1.3.78. Bluff Island 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 44.297644, -74.196745

1.3.79. South Colton 13 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.487284, -74.851687

1.3.80. Azure Mountain 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.541254, -74.500934

1.3.81. Loon Lake Mtn 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.557244, -74.142090

1.3.82. Catamount 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.454338, -73.869944

1.3.83. Twin Falls Cliff 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.337377, -75.027934

1.3.84. Charcoal Kiln Quarry 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.435135, -74.270301

1.3.85. Inman Slabs 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.569264, -74.094775

1.3.86. Pulpit Rock 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.312108, -73.967167

1.3.87. Rich Lake 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 43.975701, -74.190271

1.3.88. Chimney Mountain 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.693195, -74.209642

1.3.89. Lake Pleasant Quarry 17 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 43.460024, -74.436894

1.3.90. Starbuck Mountain 17 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.773098, -74.094620

1.3.91. Moxham Mountain 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.752852, -73.997979

1.3.92. Hooper Garnet Mine 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 43.709039, -74.101592

1.3.93. Snowy Mt 7 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.699652, -74.386557

1.3.94. Sugarloaf 12 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 43.755257, -74.460509

1.3.95. Cedar River Crag 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.745680, -74.462192

1.3.96. Chatiemac Cliff 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.657034, -74.037565

1.3.97. Coney Mountain 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.081726, -74.512088

1.3.98. Cat Mountain 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.100249, -74.865591

1.3.99. South Bay Roadcut 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.125640, -74.537110

1.3.100. Pitchoff Ridge Domes 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.248209, -73.854482

1.3.101. The Barkeater Cliff 20 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.256964, -73.863417

1.3.102. Spruce Hill Crag 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.213485, -73.698191

1.3.103. Typhoon Wall 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.214965, -73.700218

1.3.104. Ufo Wall 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.223390, -73.873791

1.3.105. Little Crow Mountain 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.263917, -73.750345

1.3.106. Bear Den 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.364711, -73.864477

1.3.107. Beaver Brook 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.365005, -73.809581

1.3.108. Polar Soldier Wall 3 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.362610, -73.863717

1.3.109. Cobble Cliff 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 44.290850, -73.962699

1.4. Little Falls 109 routes in Crag

2 3 1

1 The Dihedrals 2 Moss Island 3 Recycle Rock

Summary:

Top roping, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 43.034250, -74.840080

description

http://thomannengineering.com/software/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/MossIslandGuideApril2012.pdf

1.4.1. The Dihedrals 22 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 43.035718, -74.832131

1.4.2. Moss Island 81 routes in Area

Summary:

Top roping, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 43.039530, -74.847698

1.4.3. Recycle Rock 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing, Top roping and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 43.037039, -74.836591

1.5. West Point 113 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 41.377857, -73.959692

1.5.1. Upper Flirtie Crag 11 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.5.2. Middle Flirtie Crag 0 routes in Area

1.5.3. Lower Flirtie Crag 21 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.5.4. MP Wall 0 routes in Area

1.5.5. Dean's Wall 0 routes in Area

1.5.6. Hog's Wall 0 routes in Area

1.5.7. South Dock Slab 7 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.5.8. Poison Ivy Wall 68 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 41.377467, -73.959596

description

sport routes. bolted.

approach

1/4 mile on road left onto railroad tracks (under one mile walk on tracks) cliffs on left, routes marked in white paint on wall.

parking is now limited (as of May 1, 2014 the $5 option at the tracks has been terminated) to the streets above access road. recommend parking near mcdonalds, in west point city, (do not park at mcdonalds, people have been "chased" out before) and hiking down the road to the boat ramp, take left on railroad tracks and continue under one mile to location.

1.5.9. EURO WALL.....AKA AS SLANTED GULLY 6 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.6. Harriman State Park 4 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 41.249912, -74.094924

1.6.1. Master Bedroom 4 routes in Field

Summary:

1.7. Thacher State Park 54 routes in Crag

1 2

1 Hailes Cliff South 2 Horseshoe North

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.649425, -74.006534

summary

Thacher offers a unique experience for Northeastern climbers as the only limestone cliff in the region. It provides plenty of challenging climbs on smooth crimpy faces and steep cave formations.

description

Thacher State Park opened to the public on July 1st, 2017. It offers relatively easy access to dozens of sport climbs. Rock texture ranges from smooth to rough textured pocketed areas. Wear a helmet as the area is new and there is choss in spots. See also: http://www.climbthacher.org

access issues

Consult https://climbthacher.org for the latest rules.

As of April 2024:

• You must receive a permit from the park.

  See https://climbthacher.org/climb/

• Once you have your passes, you must sign-in/out at the trailhead register each time you climb. Please ensure that you do this every time you climb – it helps with safety and shows the Park how many people use the climbing area.

• Hours: Climbing is permitted from dawn until dusk (the Park closes at dusk). In the past, climbers were required to pick up physical permits from the Visitor Center. Starting with the 2023 season, this is no longer required.

• Directions: It is free to climb at Thacher, but there is a $6 parking fee during the regular season (May-Nov). The contactless pay booths will tell you if you need to pay. The NYS Parks Empire Pass is valid at Thacher Park.

approach

Thacher State Park is located outside of Albany, NY.

The approach for all routes involves squeezing through a tight chimney.

where to stay

Full service camp grounds can be found only 3 miles from Thacher at Thompson’s Lake, state forest.

ethic

The following route information has been compiled from the Thacher Park Routes App created by Gunks Apps. Permission has been granted for the express use by thecrag.com by Dirtbag Developers Inc. The app is available from https://gunksapps.com/ for $14.99 and half of the sale price goes directly back to the Thacher Climbing Coalition http://www.climbthacher.org/ The TCC opened the area in July of 2017, please contact them regarding new route development.

Thacher climbs use a combination of glue-ins and expansion bolts as anchors and protection.

1.7.1. Hailes Cliff South 22 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.661185, -74.019969

1.7.2. Horseshoe North 32 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 42.660300, -74.016669

1.8. Catskills 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Ice climbing

Lat / Long: 42.155288, -74.126789

1.8.1. Kaaterskill Clove 7 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Ice climbing

1.8.2. Plattekill Close 2 routes in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

1.8.3. Stoney Clove 7 routes in Area

Summary:

All Ice climbing

1.8.4. Deep Notch 0 routes in Area

1.9. Armonk Cliffs 1 route in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 41.143117, -73.694926

1.10. East Marion 7 routes in Field

4 2 3 5 1

1 Fat Boy Boulder 2 Nautilus Boulder 3 Striped Boulder 4 Scary Landing Boulder 5 Gneiss Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 41.139246, -72.353127

description

There are a few quality boulders located on the East Marion beach that are very secluded. Since it is on the beach, be wary of the tidal charts as well as weather conditions which tend to be windy.

approach

Take the Main Road (Route 25) through the North Fork of Long Island into East Marion. When you arrive, take Rocky Point Road north all the way to the shore. You will see a small parking lot (requiring a parking permit) with a long set of stairs that go down to the beach. The boulders are at the left corner and larger boulders exist around that corner.

history

Bored, with no good routes nearby, people have made use of the few boulders in the eastern Long Island area.

1.10.1. Fat Boy Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.138193, -72.354724

description

The largest boulder on the beach

approach

Walk down the stairs and then walk to the left (west) along the beach

1.10.2. Nautilus Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.139740, -72.353725

description

This is the second larger boulder from the stairs. It sits right on the Rocky Point beach corner.

approach

Down the stairs and left (west) along the beach

1.10.3. Striped Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.139690, -72.353382

description

This is the closest small boulder to the stairs leading down to the beach.

1.10.4. Scary Landing Boulder 0 routes in Boulder

description

This is the large boulder east of the stairs. It has many interesting holds, but also many sharp rocks under it to fall onto. Easy downclimb off the back.

1.10.5. Gneiss Boulder 0 routes in Boulder

description

This boulder has a large horizontal crack across it

approach

Walk west from the stairs along the beach

1.11. Island Rock Gym 32 routes in Gym

1 2

1 Climbing routes 2 Bouldering problems

Summary:

Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 40.787753, -73.465412

description

60 Skyline Dr

Plainview

New York 11803 USA

http://www.islandrock.net/

call: (516) 822-ROCK (7625)

1.11.1. Climbing routes 21 routes in Feature

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 40.787753, -73.465412

1.11.2. Bouldering problems 11 routes in Feature

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 40.787702, -73.465463

1.12. Steep Rock Bouldering 0 routes in Gym

description

1506 Lexington Ave.

New York

New York 10029 USA

http://www.srbnyc.com

call: 212.410.7070

1.13. The Cliffs at Valhalla 0 routes in Gym

description

1 Commerce Park

Valhalla

New York 10595 USA

https://valhalla.thecliffsclimbing.com/

call: (877) 914-ROCK (7625)

1.14. The Rock Club 0 routes in Gym

description

130 Rhodes St.

New Rochelle

New York 10801 USA

https://pinebrookfitness.com/the-rock-club/

call: (914) 633-7625

1.15. The Gravity Vault - Melville 9 routes in Gym

Summary:

Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 40.775399, -73.413218

description

40 Melville Park Rd.

Melville

New York 11747 USA

http://www.gravityvault.com/locations/melville-ny

call: 516.777.9255

1.15.1. Climbing routes 5 routes in Area

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.15.2. Bouldering problems 4 routes in Feature

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.16. The Edge 0 routes in Gym

description

1544 Route 9

Halfmoon

New York 12065 USA

http://www.theedgehalfmoon.com/

call: 518-982-5545

1.17. A.I.R. - Albanys Indoor Rockgym 0 routes in Gym

description

4C Vatrano Road

Albany

New York 12205 USA

https://airrockgym.com/

call: (518) 459-7625

1.18. The Court Club 0 routes in Gym

description

444 Sand Creek Rd

Albany

New York 12205 USA

http://www.thecourtclub.com/rock-climbing.html

call: (518) 459-4444

1.19. The Gravity Vault 0 routes in Gym

description

6 Neptune Rd.

Poughkeepsie

New York 12601 USA

http://www.gravityvault.com/locations/poughkeepsie-ny

call: 845.462.1920

1.20. Rocksport Climbing Gym 0 routes in Gym

description

54 Carey Road

Queensbury

New York 12804 USA

http://www.rocksportny.com/

call: 518.793.4626

1.21. The Ledge 0 routes in Gym

description

604 Old Liverpool Rd.

Liverpool

New York 13088 USA

http://pacifichealthclub.com/services/the-ledge-indoor-rock-climbing/

call: 3153960455

1.22. JCC Family Sports and Fitness 0 routes in Gym

description

5655 Thompson Rd.

DeWitt

New York 13214 USA

http://jccsyr.org/about.html

call: (315) 234-4522

1.23. Clark Sports Center 0 routes in Gym

description

98 Susquehanna Ave

Cooperstown

New York 13326 USA

http://www.clarksportscenter.com/

call: (607) 547-2800

1.24. Angert Family Climbing Gym at Colgate University 0 routes in Gym

description

13 Oak Drive

Hamilton

New York 13346 USA

http://www.colgate.edu/campus-life/sports-and-recreation/outdoor-education/facilities/angert-family-climbing-wall

call: (315) 228-6111 or 7323

1.25. Munro Family Climbing Gym 0 routes in Gym

description

St. Lawrence University

Canton

New York 13617 USA

http://www.stlawu.edu/outdoor/photo-gallery/munro-family-climbing-wall

call: (315) 229-5016

1.26. AIR Climbing Facility, Adventures in Reality 0 routes in Gym

description

44 Pierrepont Ave

Potsdam

New York 13676 USA

http://www.potsdam.edu/academics/SOEPS/challengecenter/facilities

call: (315) 267-2312

1.27. Rock Ventures 0 routes in Gym

description

1044 University Ave

Rochester

New York 14607 USA

https://rockventures.net/

call: (585) 442-5462

1.28. Red Barn Climbing 0 routes in Gym

description

Andrews Memorial Dr

Rochester

New York 14623 USA

http://www.rit.edu/~w-criw/outdoor-rockclimbing.php

call: (585) 292-6571

1.29. Lindseth Climbing Gym 0 routes in Gym

description

554 Campus Road

Ithaca

New York 14853 USA

https://coe.cornell.edu/lindseth-climbing-center-and-noyes-k2-bouldering-wall

call: (607) 254-8255

1.30. Ice Pond 27 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 41.451063, -73.621472

1.31. Tea Town Boulders 7 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 41.214188, -73.826882

1.31.1. Up The Hill Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.214176, -73.826898

1.31.2. Trailside Boulders 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

1.31.3. The Jumble Boulders 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

1.32. Hyde Park Boulders 6 routes in Region

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 41.778687, -73.937170

1.32.1. Hackett Hill Park/gorilla Rock 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.792922, -73.931952

1.32.2. Roosevelt Farm Drive 1 route in Field

Summary:

1.32.3. Roosevelt Woods 2 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.764698, -73.941856

1.33. Phoenicia, Sportsman's Wall 12 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 42.086095, -74.306434

1.34. Powerlinez 624 routes in Region

Summary:

Top roping, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 41.145808, -74.166728

1.34.1. East End 89 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Top roping

Lat / Long: 41.145924, -74.163406

1.34.2. Tower Wall Area 48 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing, Top roping and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 41.145017, -74.165626

1.34.3. Yankee Ramparts 44 routes in Crag

Summary:

Top roping and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 41.146728, -74.170262

1.34.4. Books Tier 142 routes in Crag

Summary:

Top roping, Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 41.146173, -74.165061

1.34.5. Perched Ramparts 59 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Top roping

Lat / Long: 41.145334, -74.164700

1.34.6. Rock Dojo Top-Rope 31 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Top roping

Lat / Long: 41.144406, -74.167217

1.34.7. Revolutionary Ramparts 22 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 41.145890, -74.168562

1.34.8. Picatinny 57 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Top roping

Lat / Long: 41.145772, -74.166988

1.34.9. The Swath 9 routes in Crag

Summary:

Trad climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 41.144922, -74.164411

1.34.10. Swamp 16 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Top roping

Lat / Long: 41.145506, -74.168879

1.34.11. Kittatinny 20 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Top roping

Lat / Long: 41.146035, -74.166616

1.34.12. Welcome Boulders 19 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 41.144662, -74.162872

1.34.13. Rock Dojo 21 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 41.145270, -74.167988

1.34.14. The Loop 15 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 41.146455, -74.170251

1.34.15. Swath Boulders 10 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 41.144845, -74.164181

1.34.16. Boulder Road 8 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 41.144501, -74.166526

1.34.17. Monsoon / Swamp 11 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 41.147044, -74.171093

1.34.18. Shakedown Street 3 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 41.145335, -74.166781

1.35. Bear Caves 20 routes in Field

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 42.016226, -78.793540

1.35.1. Welcome Boulder 6 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 42.008736, -78.794429

1.35.2. Traverse Boulder 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 42.008831, -78.794589

1.35.3. Moloch Boulder 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 42.023903, -78.793789

1.35.4. The 45 Wall 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 42.008546, -78.794076

1.35.5. Cave Boulder Area 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 42.009191, -78.793639

1.35.6. Shagohod 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 42.017253, -78.794500

1.35.7. Highball Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 42.008668, -78.793958

1.35.8. Capstone Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 42.019415, -78.792450

1.35.9. The Roof 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.36. Glenmeal 54 routes in Region

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 44.525318, -75.021509

1.36.1. The West Side 17 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: 44.527319, -75.031116

1.36.2. Near East 18 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: 44.524744, -75.021385

1.36.3. Far East 19 routes in Field

Summary:

Lat / Long: 44.523644, -75.012610

1.37. Clarks Reservation Bouldering 26 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 42.995701, -76.095320

1.38. Table Rock 6 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 42.455813, -75.079700

1.39. East Marion Boulders 17 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 41.138914, -72.354063

summary

A collection of boulders on the beach at Rocky Point, including probably the largest climbable boulder in Long Island.

access issues

The parking lot and street parking for 500 ft in either direction require a resident permit. Beyond that, parking is OK.

1.39.1. Ghost boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.137859, -72.354768

1.39.2. Big Boy Boulder 13 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.138192, -72.354734

1.39.3. Swirly Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.139696, -72.353391

1.39.4. Little Boy Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 41.139748, -72.353672

1.40. Split Rock 16 routes in Field

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 40.957612, -72.862339

1.40.1. High Ball Boulder 7 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 40.957751, -72.862431

1.40.2. Southern Boulder 7 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 40.957466, -72.862534

1.40.3. Eastern Boulder 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 40.957758, -72.862076

1.41. Wildwood State Park 10 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 40.963748, -72.783353

1.41.1. The Bluff Boulders 10 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 40.963744, -72.783340

1.42. Rock City State Forest 14 routes in Field

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

Lat / Long: 42.208426, -78.708195

1.43. Belfast Pillars 7 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 42.357269, -78.123748

1.43.1. Nuggins Pillar 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.355481, -78.125755

1.43.2. Old Greg Pillar 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.359048, -78.121780

1.43.3. Big Scruggs Pillar 2 routes in Boulder

Summary:

Lat / Long: 42.356394, -78.124895

1.44. Z-Loft 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 42.022007, -78.561833

1.45. Payne Lake 7 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 44.276593, -75.656134