West Virginia Guide

Use this Region Guide to easily find and compare Crags.

Table of contents

1. West Virginia 3,996 routes in Region

24 11 28 10 19 12 27 26 22 6 17 8 9 7 20 18 23 3 2 1 21 25 5

1 New River Gorge 2 Meadow River 3 Summersville Lake 5 Bozoo 6 Seneca 7 Smoke Hole Canyon 8 Nelson Rocks 9 Franklin Gorge 10 Coopers Rock State Forest 11 Morgantown 12 Harper's Ferry 17 Reed's Creek 18 eNeRGy Rock Gym 19 Climbing New Heights 20 Marshall University Recreation Center 21 Outside-In Climbing Gym 22 Bear Haven 23 Kanawha State Park 24 Bear Rock Lake 25 Alma Crag 26 Long Mountain 27 North Bend State Park 28 Devil's Nose

Summary:

J

F

M

A

M

J

J

A

S

O

N

D

Seasonality

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 38.623275, -80.616647

1.1. New River Gorge 2,003 routes in Crag

5 6 7 8 4 10 11 12 3 2 1

1 South Nuttall 2 Domino Point 3 Kaymoor 4 Sunshine Buttress 5 Cotton Top 6 Bubba City 7 Junkyard 8 Bridge Area Crags 10 Fern Buttress 11 Endless Wall 12 Beauty Mountain

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 38.058331, -81.072227

summary

The New River Gorge is one of the major climbing destinations in the USA. Endless cliffs along both sides of the river with high quality sandstone offer sport and trad climbing as well as bouldering.

description

Even though the New River Gorge (combined with the nearby crags of Summersville Lake, Meadow River and Gauley River) can be seen as one of the biggest and best climbing areas of the US it is internationally less known and generally less visited than the Red river Gorge that is just a day drive away.

Seasons are similar to the Red River Gorge with fall and spring as the best but you can climb year long and will find dry routes even when it rained.

Located in beautiful West Virginia the area offers way more than climbing, notably water sports such as rafting on the nearby rivers or just chilling at Summersville lake.

approach

The New River Gorge is located near Fayetteville in West Virginia (WV), about a 90 minute drive from the capitol Charleston. It is best reached by car as you will need a car to get to the many crags and around the area.

where to stay

There are multiple campgrounds (most notably the American Alpine Club Campground) and cabin rental options. Free camping is almost impossible (with the exception of a small campsite near Summersville dam).

history

The New River Gorge is a historic place. It was marked by coal mining until the earlier 20th century and many remnants of it may be found while hiking through the dense forests. Enjoy them on your way to the cliff or on a rest day.

1.1.1. South Nuttall 88 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Aid climbing

Lat / Long: 38.035734, -81.039090

1.1.2. Domino Point 20 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 38.046867, -81.049652

1.1.3. Kaymoor 119 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 38.048195, -81.068451

description

Great climbing on great rock. Afternoon shade and lots of trees.

approach

From the AAC campground drive to US19 and take a right (South). Turn into Fayetteville and drive through on Courthouse Rd. Just outside of town turn left on Gatewood drive. Take that a few miles to Kaymoor Rd (left at the sign for Kaymoor point). Drive to the parking lot at the end. There are two approaches to the wall: Kaymoor Miners Trail will take you to Rico Suave Wall and other walls south of that. The trail branches are unmarked. There is a waterfall with water running down a rock face. Take a side trail at the waterfall to access the Hole. Go a few hundred feet down the main trail and watch for a small trail on the left up to the face. This accesses Rico Suave Wall. Butcher's Bend Trail leads down to a signed trail (Climbers Access) to access the northern walls.

Cantrell's is the closest campground to Kaymoor. They got hot showers and a little bar on site.

1.1.4. Sunshine Buttress 26 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 38.074401, -81.089283

1.1.5. Cotton Top 112 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 38.116228, -81.138459

1.1.6. Bubba City 348 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 38.095068, -81.093423

description

Although the main orientation of this crag is south and south-west many routes see shade all day when the leaves are on the trees. Route lengths vary quite a bit but you will find some longer ones that allow you to climb above the tree tops and enjoy the view (e.g. The Decameron). Sectors are sorted left to right (down to upstream).

approach

From the AAC Campground take a right towards Ames Heights Route. Turn left onto Ames Heights Route (it is called Chestnutburg Road at this point). Once you see a power line crossing the street you will see Bubba City parking on your right (the parking for the right sectors), continue 0.5km to Good Luck Cemetry Parking on your left for the left sectors.

1.1.7. Junkyard 111 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 38.084261, -81.080343

1.1.8. Bridge Area Crags 215 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 38.074344, -81.078910

1.1.9. Ambassador Buttress 26 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

1.1.10. Fern Buttress 195 routes in Area

Summary:

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 38.061841, -81.067333

1.1.11. Endless Wall 521 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 38.055514, -81.051081

description

The name says it all, it is endless. Almost 5km of cliff with excellent rock quality, loads of orientations, trad, mixed and sport routes.

approach

Due to its size, Endless Wall has multiple access points. It depends on your sector of choice which approach is the best. Parkings are located along Lansing Road (Fern Creek Parking, Nuttall Parking) and Beauty Mountain Road (Nuttall Cemetry / Beauty Mountain Parking). Please refer to the sectors for approach details.

1.1.12. Beauty Mountain 171 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Rock climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 38.050224, -81.030016

1.1.13. Keeneys Buttress 12 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.1.14. Animal Escarpments 27 routes in Cliff

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.1.15. Burnwood 1 route in Cliff

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.1.16. Hawk's Nest 11 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.2. Meadow River 191 routes in Crag

2 4 3

2 Lower Meadow 3 Upper Meadow 4 Southside Crags

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 38.143174, -80.926233

summary

Similar to the New River Gorge, The Meadow River offers climbing on both sides of the river. The cliffs are not as spread out as in the New River Gorge but also offer climbing on tall rock.

description

The Meadow River is located about halfway between Fayetteville and Summersville Lake. The area is split in the crags upstream from highway 19 (right on your way to Summersville Lake) called Upper Meadow and downstream of highway 19 (left) called Lower Meadow - both on the right side of the river. On the left side of the river, both upstream and downstream you find the so-called Southside Crags.

Most cliffs allow easy access to the river which allows for a refreshing bath on hot summerdays.

approach

Please check the access description at the individual crags as they vary quite a bit depending on which of the areas you are aiming for.

ethic

The land ownership at Meadow River varies a lot, from private land to National Recreation Area land, please behave accordingly and leave no trace!

1.2.1. Meadow Top Boulders 12 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.2.2. Lower Meadow 29 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 38.154301, -80.933062

1.2.3. Upper Meadow 89 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 38.142851, -80.911242

description

These are the sectors located on the right side of the river and up-stream of highway 19 (right as you drive towards Summersville Lake).

approach

Drive out to highway 19 and head in direction Summersville Lake. After about 10 miles you will see a sign for Underwood Rd 1/4 Mile, make a U-turn at this exit and drive back just before the bridge where you park on the right just off the highway. Hike towards the bridge and follow the path down and under the bridge to your left. Follow the trail along the river until you see a small wooden sign for First Buttress, take a left if you want to access Zero Buttress, First Buttress or Second Buttress. Continue for a few minutes if you directly want to access Third Buttress until you see a path going up left or even further for Fourth Buttress. You may also follow the base of the cliff from buttress to buttress.

1.2.4. Southside Crags 61 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 38.145289, -80.932040

description

The Southside Crags are located on the left side of Meadow River up- and down-stream of highway 19. All sectors are located along the old railway track.

approach

Drive North on highway 19 and take highway 60 south until you reach Lookout. Take a left on Propps Ridge road and follow it for about 4.5 miles. At this point the paved road takes a right to a big locked gate, you continue straight on the gravel road. Cross two creeks on old wooden railroad bridges and continue on the gravel road until you see a small parking below on your left. Park there and hike along the road (left from where you arrived) and cross another bridge (the road got blocked with big boulders just after this bridge. In the past it was possible to drive along Meadow River to the different sectors). Continue along the former railroad track to the various sectors that are on your left up the hill.

1.3. Summersville Lake 174 routes in Crag

1 2 4 5 6

1 Main Area 2 Whippoorwill 4 Long Point 5 Gauley Crag 6 Carnifex Ferry

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 38.220616, -80.884740

summary

This climbing area includes the crags at Summersville Lake and Gauley River. Loads of climbing, Deep Water Soloing and fun!

description

The Gauley River is the third river in this area (on top of the New River and the Meadow River) forming lots of climbable cliffs along its way. Summersville Dam creates Summersville Lake where many of the cliffs rise out of the lake depending on the water level.

access issues

With the exception of the Main Area (not Pirate Cove!) all crags at Summersville Lake are impacted by the water level. During the summer months till about October the level is too high to access many other areas (unless for DWS). Check the website of the Army Corps of Engineers for the current water level. Once it is below 1600 feet, most areas are accessible for climbing. The crags below the dam are obviously not impacted by the lake water level.

approach

Drive north on highway 19 towards Summersville. to reach the dam and teh lower Gauley River crags turn left on highway 129. To reach the lake areas continue on highway 19. Whippoorwill is just before the bridge on your left, the Main Area right after the bridge and Long Point is reached via the Airport Road on your left.

where to stay

There is free camping below the dam. Drive over the dam on highway 129 and take a left and drive down just after it.

1.3.1. Main Area 125 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 38.241988, -80.842013

1.3.2. Whippoorwill 41 routes in Cliff

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 38.230365, -80.853221

1.3.3. Rats Hole 8 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

1.3.4. Long Point 0 routes in Cliff

1.3.5. Gauley Crag 0 routes in Cliff

1.3.6. Carnifex Ferry 0 routes in Cliff

1.4. Needle’s Eye 0 routes in Crag

summary

A 300-acre park under construction near the New River Gorge (Oak Hill) that includes more than two miles of cliff for climbing and bouldering.

1.5. Bozoo 345 routes in Crag

22 24 19 23 26 25 1 3 20 14 27 2 16 8 12 11 15 7 9 13 18 21

1 White Wall 2 Iceberg Area 3 Necro Wall 7 Hershey Boulder 8 The Blok 9 The Dugout 11 Firepole Boulder 12 The Bozoo Roof 13 Pocket Boulder 14 Educator Boulder 15 The Bench 16 Highlander Area 18 Project Area 19 Downstream Boulderfield 20 Entryway Boulders 21 Powerline Boulders 22 Stoned Hinge 23 Flinger Area 24 Zion 25 Rigor Wall 26 Double-Tier Wall 27 Savory Area

Summary:

Bouldering, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 37.484183, -80.861625

1.5.1. White Wall 13 routes in Area

Summary:

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 37.478425, -80.865155

1.5.2. Iceberg Area 20 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing, Rock climbing and Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.478034, -80.866300

1.5.3. Necro Wall 14 routes in Area

Summary:

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 37.478388, -80.866787

1.5.4. Bond Wall 4 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.5.5. Bovine Wall 8 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.5.6. Simpson's Wall 8 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.5.7. Hershey Boulder 11 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.477617, -80.867283

1.5.8. The Blok 8 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.477822, -80.867264

1.5.9. The Dugout 7 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.477612, -80.867181

1.5.10. The Crown 4 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.5.11. Firepole Boulder 7 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.477693, -80.867671

1.5.12. The Bozoo Roof 7 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.477796, -80.867780

1.5.13. Pocket Boulder 14 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.477602, -80.866370

1.5.14. Educator Boulder 9 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.478195, -80.867518

1.5.15. The Bench 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.477680, -80.867423

1.5.16. Highlander Area 8 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.478000, -80.866684

1.5.17. Sky High Boulder 1 route in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.5.18. Project Area 38 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.476850, -80.864838

1.5.19. Downstream Boulderfield 58 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.483108, -80.874805

1.5.20. Entryway Boulders 20 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.478304, -80.853096

1.5.21. Powerline Boulders 10 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.475393, -80.861281

1.5.22. Stoned Hinge 12 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.494575, -80.872200

1.5.23. Flinger Area 4 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.481082, -80.871155

1.5.24. Zion 8 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 37.484762, -80.875144

1.5.25. Rigor Wall 16 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 37.479917, -80.869148

1.5.26. Double-Tier Wall 11 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 37.480227, -80.869880

1.5.27. Savory Area 22 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 37.478073, -80.864411

1.6. Seneca 428 routes in Crag

5 4 3 2 1

1 The Southern Pillar 2 The South End 3 South Peak 4 North Peak 5 Lower Slabs

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 38.833914, -79.367611

summary

Idyllic setting in the gorgeous West Virgina hill country. Secluded, yet popular, this crag leaves a lasting impression with all its climbing visitors. Rock type: Tuscarora quartzite

description

Steep routes on great rock. One to four-pitch (most routes are 2-3 pitches), predominantly trad-protected climbs. Climbing varies, but typically includes 90-degree right/left facing corners with crack between face and corner, vertical finger-to-hand size cracks, and face climbing between ledges. Fore warned is fore armed! Seneca difficulty ratings ARE sandbagged. Understand that most 5.7 and above at Seneca requires significant trad experience, including good gear placement, rope management, and a cool head on steep, exposed rock. Some 5.8s and 5.9s at Seneca are rightfully considered quite serious, and are thought of as 5.10s relative to other crags.

access issues

Access is free to the public and only restricted due to weather. April through October are typically warm enough, but frequent rain is an issue.

1.6.1. The Southern Pillar 43 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 38.831991, -79.367498

1.6.2. The South End 45 routes in Area

Summary:

Rock climbing, Trad climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 38.833754, -79.366607

1.6.3. South Peak 215 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 38.834497, -79.366579

1.6.4. North Peak 94 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 38.835582, -79.365874

1.6.5. Lower Slabs 31 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 38.835724, -79.366461

1.7. Smoke Hole Canyon 53 routes in Crag

1 2 5

1 Guide Wall 2 Entrance Walls 5 Copperhead Cove

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 38.535284, -79.400524

summary

Over 250 rock climbs in West Virginia's best-kept-secret.

1.7.1. Guide Wall 28 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 38.875600, -79.267782

1.7.2. Entrance Walls 9 routes in Sector

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 38.813528, -79.282177

1.7.3. Long Branch Wall 14 routes in Sector

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

1.7.4. Pork Palace 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.7.5. Copperhead Cove 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 38.086033, -79.602805

1.8. Nelson Rocks 106 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 38.696549, -79.464620

1.8.1. West Fin, West Face 17 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.8.2. The Pillar, South Face 9 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.8.3. West Fin, East Face 25 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Rock climbing

1.8.4. East Fin, West Face 27 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.8.5. Crescendo Wall Area 28 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.9. Franklin Gorge 98 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 38.666496, -79.322003

description

Located entirely on PRIVATE LAND, single pitch, mostly sport, some mixed & trad.

access issues

All known routes at Franklin are located on PRIVATE LAND, and therefor, access should not be taken for granted. Keeping a low profile is of utmost importance. The landowner & his family hunt on the plateau above the routes, so please apprise yourself of the State & Local hunting seasons, and act accordingly.

approach

Your typical Potomac Highlands approach: Short & Steep. Staying on the trail is imperative, as even a slight mis-step causes a good bit of negative impact. Always remember that a hillside trail is much stronger on the uphill edge, and much weaker on the downhill edge. Approach times are from 10 seconds to about 15 minutes.

where to stay

Brandywine Recreational Area, Thorn Springs Campground, Star Hotel, Thompson's Motel

ethic

Dogs are not welcome (PRIVATE LAND), Leave No Trace, stay on trails, you-damage-trail-you-fix-it-NOW, no trundling onto road, no Quick-Links, no tick marks, clean up your chalk, clean up your tape, no chipping, no theft, no defacement, use camouflaged hardware, inspect & replace worn carabiners, respect red tags, respect hunters & hunting seasons, no top-roping through fixed gear, etc., etc.

history

Sport climbing is known to have come to Franklin in the early 1990's, by then Harrisonburg local John Burcham. Other key developers are believed to be: Eddie & Tracy Begoon, Howard Clark, George Powell, Darrel Hensley, & Mike Artz, along with various others. Later & continued development was brought by Michael Fisher & Michael Gray. Later development at the River's Bend area is believed to be by Matthew Fanning, Matthew Behrins, Sam Powell, et.al.

1.9.1. Parking Area Wall 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

description

This is the cliff that is visible right above the main parking area, offering some very sustained climbing, and is home to the first sport routes at Franklin.

approach

Simply walk up the stone steps..."Two Blind Mice" is at the top of the steps, with the classic "Squeal Like A Pig" on your right, and more routes to the left.

1.9.2. Contact Zone 20 routes in Sector

Summary:

Sport climbing, Rock climbing and Trad climbing

description

Located on private land, mostly sport routes, 2-8 bolts, ring anchors, cold shuts, or chain top anchors.

approach

From the parking area, go up the stone steps, go right (upriver), follow the trail, less than 5 minutes.

1.9.3. Impact Zone 43 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

description

Located on private land, this is the upper level at Franklin, with a good selection of sport climbs, mostly in the 5.10 range.

approach

5-10 minutes

1.9.4. River's Bend 25 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

1.9.5. The Ivory Tower 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

1.10. Coopers Rock State Forest 360 routes in Crag

13 4 16 15 14 12

4 Sunset Wall (Jimi Cliff) 12 Wildlife Management Area 13 Darnell Hollow 14 Sandcrag 15 Table Rock 16 Castle Rock

Summary:

Bouldering, Rock climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 39.608653, -79.731280

1.10.1. Rock City 83 routes in Area

Summary:

Bouldering and Rock climbing

1.10.2. Haystack Area 15 routes in Area

Summary:

Rock climbing and Bouldering

1.10.3. Roadside Rocks 84 routes in Area

Summary:

Bouldering and Rock climbing

1.10.4. Sunset Wall (Jimi Cliff) 24 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

Lat / Long: 39.634985, -79.809732

1.10.5. Middle Rocks 1 route in Area

Summary:

All Bouldering

1.10.6. Lower Middle 0 routes in Area

1.10.7. The Good Block 6 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.10.8. Raven Rock 0 routes in Area

1.10.9. Tilted Tree Alley Way 54 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Bouldering

1.10.10. Roof Rocks 26 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.10.11. 2 Big Rocks 7 routes in Area

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

1.10.12. Wildlife Management Area 37 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 39.513904, -79.655480

1.10.13. Darnell Hollow 3 routes in Boulder

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 39.692222, -79.809662

1.10.14. Sandcrag 10 routes in Sector

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.611669, -79.803032

1.10.15. Table Rock 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 39.622179, -79.820141

1.10.16. Castle Rock 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 39.623441, -79.821339

1.11. Morgantown 91 routes in Crag

5

5 Student Recreation Center

Summary:

Rock climbing, Sport climbing and other styles

Lat / Long: 39.613358, -79.930060

1.11.1. Woodland Wall 55 routes in Area

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.11.2. Hole in the Wall 18 routes in Crag

Summary:

Sport climbing, Trad climbing and Top roping

1.11.3. Secret Cliffs 15 routes in Area

Summary:

Trad climbing and Sport climbing

1.11.4. castle rocks 3 routes in Area

Summary:

Sport climbing and Trad climbing

1.11.5. Student Recreation Center 0 routes in Gym

description

2001 Rec. Center Dr

Morgantown

West Virginia 26506 USA

http://studentreccenter.wvu.edu/

call: (304) 293-5076

1.12. Harper's Ferry 0 routes in Crag

1.13. The G Spot 10 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Rock climbing

1.14. Charleston 0 routes in Crag

1.15. Riverton Rocks 0 routes in Crag

1.16. Judy Gap 0 routes in Crag

description

An often overlooked area, with excellent adventure climbing opportunities, as well as a few classic sport climbs. Climbing could be compared to Seneca, Nelson, & Champe Rocks. Some two pitch routes exist. Aging pitons, RURPS, etc. suggest a long history of climbing.

1.16.1. Spire 1 0 routes in Area

1.16.2. Spire 2 0 routes in Area

1.16.3. Spire 3 0 routes in Area

1.16.4. Spire 4 0 routes in Area

1.17. Reed's Creek 40 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Sport climbing

Lat / Long: 38.785953, -79.290693

description

Small sport climbing area located between Franklin and Petersburg with limestone cliffs very similar to Franklin Gorge, but with more moderate climbs. South facing wall with all day sun. Many routes from 5.7 to 5.11 and potential for more climbs between already established ones. For up to date information, check out Mike Gray's rakkup guide http://rakkup.com/guidebooks/smoke-hole-canyon-reeds-creek-rock-climbing/

access issues

Located on public lands, in the National Forest. Generations of locals have hunted game here, so apprise yourself of hunting seasons & regulations, and be respectful of other user groups. Please note that the plateau above the routes is PRIVATE LAND, and the land owner does not permit encroachment of any sort.

approach

Turn on Reeds's Creek Road from Rt 220 near Upper Track, WV. There will be two small pull-outs on the left: first about 100 ft from the 220 intersection and second about 500 feet by the stream crossing. Both can take 2-3 cars. Additional parking can be found on the intersection with Rt 220. The trail-head is about half way between 2 pull-outs on the right. The trail is easy to spot because of steep rock steps leading from the road.

A typical Potomac Highlands approach, short & steep, but on a good trail. Staying on the trail is imperative, as even a slight mis-step causes a good bit of negative impact. Always remember that a hillside trail is much stronger on the uphill edge, and much weaker on the downhill edge.

where to stay

1. Eagle Rock private campground is 10 min. away at "38.824398, -79.290244". Beautiful location, but all you get is field to pitch your tent and an outhouse.

2. Franklin, WV is 15 min. away with stores and motels.

3. Thorn Springs Campground near Franklin is 20 min. away. Privately owned.

4. Big Bend campground in Smoke Hole Canyon near Ketterman is 30 min. away. This USDA Forest Service campground is one of the the most scenic and secluded in the area. Great destination on it's own.

ethic

Leave No Trace, stay on trails, you-damage-trail-you-fix-it-NOW, no trundling onto road, no Quick-Links, no tick marks, clean up your chalk, clean up your tape, no chipping, no theft, no defacement, use camouflaged hardware, inspect & replace worn carabiners, respect red tags, walk on the left side of the road, respect hunters & hunting seasons, no top-roping through fixed gear, etc., etc.

1.17.1. Gypsies Wall 3 routes in Crag

Summary:

All Sport climbing

summary

The first wall on the trail

1.18. eNeRGy Rock Gym 0 routes in Gym

description

269 Graham Drive

Charleston

West Virginia 25302 USA

http://www.energyrockgym.com

call: 304-951-8999

1.19. Climbing New Heights 0 routes in Gym

description

54 GM Access Rd.

Martinsburg

West Virginia 25403 USA

http://staticbk.wixsite.com/climbingnewheights

call: 304-283-6050

1.20. Marshall University Recreation Center 0 routes in Gym

description

5th Avenue

Huntington

West Virginia 25722 USA

http://www.marshallcampusrec.com/index.php?ht=d/sp/i/17292/pid/17292

call: (304) 696-6477

1.21. Outside-In Climbing Gym 0 routes in Gym

description

1818 Harper Rd.

Beckley

West Virginia 25801 USA

http://chocolatemoosewv.com/climbinggym.html

call: 304-253-7242

1.22. Bear Haven 10 routes in Field

Summary:

Bouldering, Top roping and Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 38.931793, -79.681883

1.23. Kanawha State Park 18 routes in Field

Summary:

Bouldering and Top roping

Lat / Long: 38.262487, -81.666847

1.24. Bear Rock Lake 12 routes in Field

Summary:

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: 40.078277, -80.532176

1.25. Alma Crag 7 routes in Crag

1 2

1 Alma West 2 Alma East

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 37.759329, -82.294095

1.25.1. Alma West 6 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 37.757521, -82.309891

1.25.2. Alma East 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 37.757269, -82.308384

1.26. Long Mountain 31 routes in Crag

1

1 Prelude

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 38.968397, -78.688771

1.26.1. Prelude 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 38.958021, -78.704375

1.26.2. A 28 routes in Crag

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

1.26.3. B 2 routes in Sector

Summary:

All Trad climbing

1.27. North Bend State Park 14 routes in Crag

1 3 2

1 Big Easy Cliffs 2 Sunshine Wall 3 Castle Rock

Summary:

Trad climbing, Sport climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 39.219987, -81.081060

1.27.1. Big Easy Cliffs 8 routes in Sector

Summary:

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: 39.221410, -81.101879

1.27.2. Sunshine Wall 5 routes in Sector

Summary:

Sport climbing and Top roping

Lat / Long: 39.217035, -81.066506

1.27.3. Castle Rock 1 route in Sector

Summary:

All Top roping

Lat / Long: 39.219031, -81.100883

1.28. Devil's Nose 5 routes in Crag

1 2

1 North East Area 2 South West Area

Summary:

All Top roping

Lat / Long: 39.608396, -78.112980

1.28.1. North East Area 4 routes in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 39.608839, -78.112986

1.28.2. South West Area 1 route in Sector

Summary:

Lat / Long: 39.608025, -78.113464