Routes in Yosemite National Park for selected grade

Pro to 2".

Dirty, offwidth and chimney climbing to a 3 star view

Shared top anchor with Hanging Flake.

New route spring 2023, not in most guide books. Starts a couple meters right of Claude’s Delight. Follow thin diagonal crack past a small tree to where it switches to face climbing on knobs, with a single bolt in this face section. Has its own ring anchors. Double rack to 0.75”.

Pro to 3". Descend with 80' rappel.

An exceptionally popular easy route up the central buttress between the two arch features. For such a popular route the climbing isn't actually that great, with lots of rambly 4th class pitches to start, an unavoidable aid move, and some mungy bits as well. The climb is also quite linear, especially up high, so passing slower parties or climbing parallel to them isn't particularly easy.

1. 5.6 100ft Chimney. There are several variant starts, most of which are better than this pitch.

2. 5.4 200ft Walk right along ledge to short crack (5.4).

3. 4th 200ft Continue right along ledge.

4. 5.6 100ft Crack on face.

5. 3rd 200ft Continue right along ledge until it ends.

6. 5.6 or 5.7 100ft Up cracks (5.7), or the exposed corner further right (5.6) to dead pine tree (lots of belay options).

7. 5.6 150ft Up cracks and blocks (optional belay) then up sandy pin-scarred groove.

8. 5.6 100ft Sustained jamming to tree.

9. 5.6 100ft Easy offwidth trench to lovely cracks.

10. 5.4 100ft Blocks to A0 pendulum (goes free at 5.10c - slick water polished slab). Move left along ledge system to base of next corner.

11. 5.7 100ft Flake and tree, then step left around major arete.

12. 5.6 165ft 2 corners to belay at tree.

13. 5.5 100ft Angle up and left with tricky pro.

14. 4th 100ft Continue angling up and left on slab to rappel bolts. The rappel route starts here.

15. 5.4 150ft Exposed horizontal slabbing left to trees. Rim is 300ft above here.

Fantastic views, almost guaranteed solitude, 900' of solid granite, a great route at 5.7 (or more likely 5.9). The real crux is route-finding on P3.

Valley Approach: Climb Royal Arches with an early start, then hike to the base of North Dome.

Tuolumne Approach: Hike in from Porcupine Creek.

From the base of the south face, hike up a 3rd class ledge angling from bottom left to top right, aiming for the large corner in the centre of the face.

1. 160ft (5.6R) up slabs, small cams at your feet on ledges, then up crack to tree belay.

2. 100ft (5.6) up left facing corner to belay on one of two trees.

3. 160ft (5.7) route-finding crux, ignore the many slings further up the corner in easy terrain. Move up the corner for only ~20ft, step right onto a sloping ledge and continue right almost above the belay, then swing up and over on to the face, contour 10ft to a crack, then follow up to belay above bushes, cams in crack. Rope drag is a problem. All moves can be protected with cams, but you'll likely need a mid-belay just up on the face due to rope drag.

4. 160ft (5.7) Continue up the crack with good gear, near the top it narrows and small nuts or cams are required, before a 20ft run-out slab with 5.6 friction leading to a bushy ledge. Belay with cams in corner.

5. 160ft (5.7) Up awkward chimney with awkward move to exit at the top, then up to right facing corner with beautiful (but strenuous) lay-backing). Tree & cam belay.

6. 160ft (5.7, more like 5.9) Similar to previous pitch but steeper. Up awkward chimney, then strenuous lay-backing. Stop for a semi-hanging belay when you're ready.

7. 100ft (5.5) Presuming you belayed beyond the steepest section, continue up the easing corner, up and short step and follow the corner around to the right to a stance, cam belay.

8. 100ft (5.6) Climb out to the left above the crack to a friction slab, make sure you place gear in a small crack line in the face to protect the final 20ft run-out slab. Then 50ft of 4th class friction to belay at large tree.

Unrope and continue up 3rd class terrain to the summit.

Valley Descent: Quite epic, descend the North Dome gully. Tuolumne "Descent": actually ascent, hike up the trails to Porupine Creek.

Bolts replaced in 1992.

Climb the log to get to the descent ramp.

Right facing corner.

Start on sloper and sidepull crimp. Climb straight up.

Climb the prow from a high start.

Start on a jug and climb straight up.

Climb the arete from a sit start.

Climb straight up from the right side of the juggy shelf.

Climb the slabby scoop.

Climb the face 5 ft right of a tree. Start on high underclings.

Jump start to a sloping jug above a sloper. Go straight up.

1. 130ft (5.7) Jam up the right-facing dihedral with insecure footholds on slick, polished rock. Belay at the tree.

2. 50ft (3rd class) Scramble up 3rd class to a large manzanita at the base of a wide crack.

3. 80ft (5.6) Wide crack climbing leads to face climbing. Continue up and right to belay at an alcove on a ledge.

4. 130ft (5.5) Easy slab climbing leads to a large ledge.

5. 80ft (5.6) Easy slab climbing on knobs leads to crux liebacking up a flake. Continue up to another large ledge and belay at the tree.

6. 90ft (5.6) Follow the crack up and right. Belay from cracks atop the buttress. A fun 5.8 alternate finish follows the thin flakes and broken cracks up left before traversing back right across the steepest rock directly below the summit.

Walk off descent with short 3rd and 4th class exposure. Retreat earlier by rappelling with 2 ropes or escaping left atop pitch 4.

Pro to 2".

Climb the left side of the arete above a flake at the base.

Climb straight up from slopey jugs.

Climb the left angling ramp.

Climb the blunt arete starting with a left hand crimp.

Go up edges on the back face. A good downclimb.

Climb the slab right of 'End of the Day Problem' on polished feet.

Horizontal crack above Bachar Cracker. Traverse L to R.