Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Wed 29th Jun 2022 - Popran | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Rock 'n' Roll Mr Creosote | 25m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, such a nice climb I did it twice. Huge snake in the pocket a metre left of the 4th bolt
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24 | ★★ Ophidiophobia | 26m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Alzheimers os, to the anchors of Mr C. Easier than 24 but maybe better for the short
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19 | ★★ Little green slugs | 42m | ★ Good | |||
A shuffle of the bolts would make this feel a bit safer
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17 | ★ The Meaning of Liff | 45m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Snake around the horizontal break
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20 21 | ★★ Flying Circus | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, anchors wet, rest ok.
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Sun 26th Jun 2022 - Joll's Bridge | ||||||
Lower cliffline | ||||||
16 | ★ Chocolate Coated Parents | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, surprisingly clean today and climbs nicely. I was surprised.
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21 | ★★ The Climb that was | 18m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, couple of laps.
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17 | ★ Natie Head | 8m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Some ok movement
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19 | ★★ Bad Luck Silverback | 12m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Two laps for good measure.
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25 | ★★ Channel Bill Cuckoo | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Reacquainting myself with the two finger pocket. Rest of it fine.
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Wed 22nd Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Central Gully | ||||||
18 | ★ Centennial direct finish | 9m | Average | |||
Sometimes it feels like ground hog day, but it was good to see Louise tackle this on lead
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12 | ★ Chutney | 13m | Average | |||
Wed 22nd Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face The Ramparts | ||||||
19 | ★ Red-Belly Black Flake | 25m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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14 | ★ Terminally in Traction | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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Easy Meat direct start | 18m, 6 | |||||
A half baked attempt, it’s very friable, just do the original
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23 | ★★ Taipan Wall | 25m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Nice but suffered from being climbed on when wet a couple of days ago.
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21 | ★ Eastern Brown | 25m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Nice moves, but would be a bit of a scary onsight
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Mon 20th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Big Banana Buttress & The Extremes | ||||||
21 | ★★ No Support for the Monarchy | 15m, 5 | ||||
The bolts were out, drill dust everywhere, I was meant to be evaluating new bolt positions but it was too crozzly to be sure.
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Mon 20th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face The Ramparts | ||||||
19 | ★ Red-Belly Black Flake | 25m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, end of day, Dave still sandbags everyone claiming it’s a 17…
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14 | ★ Terminally in Traction | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, a little mossy on the upper part
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Mon 20th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Central Gully | ||||||
12 | ★ Chutney | 13m | Average | |||
Rpt no 50 or so
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18 | ★ Centennial direct finish | 9m | Average | |||
The crag warm up now with bolts
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Mon 20th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Turkey Walls | ||||||
19 | ★ Killer’eska | 17m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Was pressured into leading it….
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21 | ★★ Profanity | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt. A little greasy today, but not enough rain to make it dirty
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Fri 17th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Central Gully | ||||||
18 | ★ Centennial direct finish | 9m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, to try out the new ring bolts. A consumer classic now!
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18 | ★ Centennial direct finish | 9m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, to try out the new ring bolts. A consumer classic now!
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Fri 17th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Stopper Walls | ||||||
19 | ★ Clear and present danger | 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. A bit dirty today but the holds are now all solid it seems
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24 | ★ Speak Easy | 6m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
MF answer to a campus board. A little bit of rope assistance on the crux move, but quite happy with my crimping today
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21 | ★ Ghetto Blaster | 7m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt, pumpy and exposed for such a short route
|
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23 | ★★★ Weena | 30m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One brief foot misstep, felt pretty good otherwise. The usual brown tree snake just below anchors. It didn’t move.
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Thu 16th Jun 2022 - Tomaree Head | ||||||
Black Slab | ||||||
20 | ★★ Avenger | 45m | ★ Good | |||
Nice route with interesting contortions on the flakes
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23 | ★★ Gunbarrel Highway | 45m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
A quick lap, in borrowed shoes. Pretty thin
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Tue 14th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Turkey Walls | ||||||
19 | ★★ Bereska | 18m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The pinch pillar below the roof has partially disappeared but it doesn’t affect the grade
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19 | ★ Killer’eska | 17m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
A different start that’s more crimpy, the crux is still on Bereska which is quite sandbagged at 19
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21 | ★★ Profanity | 14m | ★★ Very Good | |||
The most comfortable I’ve felt on this
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Tue 14th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face Central Gully | ||||||
18 | ★ Centennial direct finish | 9m | Average | |||
Now all on ring bolts
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26 | ★ Jacob's Ladder | 20m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
I’m still keen on a right hand start. Super bouldery funky moves I can barely do, and the start feels harder than 26
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Mon 13th Jun 2022 - Treatment Plant | ||||||
Plant 1, The Sunny Side | ||||||
17 | ★ Poopsicle | 7m | ★ Good | |||
16 | Ben and Jewies Upper Decker | 7m | ||||
12 | Dysentry | 9m | Crap | |||
18 | ★ Portaloo | 10m | Average | |||
19 | Thunder Box | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Options limited today given the swell and seepage
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18 | ★★ Grunt | 10m | ★★ Very Good | |||
21 | ★ Pucker Up | 8m | ★ Good | |||
20 | Shove | 9m | Average | |||
24 | ★★ Lock It In | 9m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The climb briefly dried, then the tide started coming back in and it got drenched again
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Sat 11th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Gate Crag Central Buttress | ||||||
20 | ★★ Titania | 18m, 9 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Two laps, distracted by trying to find emergency dentist
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Sat 11th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Gate Crag Walls of 2000 | ||||||
21 | ★ Dumb Struck | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Was just warming up when my temporary crown dislodged. Toothache and climbing don’t mix
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19 | ★ Plain Dumb | 10m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
16 | ★ Spider Lair | 10m | Average | |||
Wed 8th Jun 2022 - Berowra | ||||||
Bullet Hole Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Looks Poxable | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
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18 | ★★ Mental Fatigue | 13m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, the nicest route I did all day.
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Wed 8th Jun 2022 - Berowra | ||||||
Kid Free Area | ||||||
18 | ★ Angry Ants | 12m, 4 | Don't Bother | |||
Dirty discontinuous climbing, even the arete at the top didn’t salvage it
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Wed 8th Jun 2022 - Berowra | ||||||
Ladder of Gloom Area | ||||||
15 | ★ Avoidance Arete | 8m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Better than it looked and feels quite long with the traversing. Interesting engineering at the start…
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Wed 8th Jun 2022 - Berowra | ||||||
Pimple Buttress | ||||||
19 | ★ Petroglyph | 8m, 2 | Average | |||
15 | ★ Taylor Made | 6m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
3 laps trying to show my belayer in slow motion how to be dynamic and use her feet, soloed to clean
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Wed 8th Jun 2022 - Berowra | ||||||
Glamorpus Area | ||||||
16 | ★ Prowl 'n Prejudice | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt, easy but would get a V grade ( probably said the same last time I did it)
|
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18 | Extended Prejudice Remix | 10m, 3 | Don't Bother | |||
Only advantage is it makes it easier to clean
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17 | ★ Un Hommage du Craster | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
This is a retrobolting of JFH surely. Ok.
|
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Mon 6th Jun 2022 - Watagans | ||||||
Monkey Face The Ramparts | ||||||
19 19 R | ★★ Garbage Blaster | 26m | ★★ Very Good | |||
22 | ★ Waynes Route | 25m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
10 | ★ Vascolomys Wambach | 20m | ★ Good | |||
12 | ★ Buzzed Out | 28m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
15 | Adrenaline Wall | 25m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
23 | ★★ Taipan Wall | 25m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
A bit tired and sore skin and shoulder after 2 days at Nowra, but cleaning the house can only take up so much time. Fell off a few things due to not concentrating on sequence. Pretty cold and windy.
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Sun 5th Jun 2022 - Nowra | ||||||
Babylon Areas Occupied Territories First Canyon | ||||||
19 | ★ Escape Artist | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
I quite liked it
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24 | ★★★ Axis of Evil | 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
2 shots today. More grating on finger skin than I recall. Knee pads next time 3 knee bars. Middle crux match, r foot up, right hand side pull, left hand unchalked dimple then slipper, forget about chalked holds to left then up to above bolt. Top crux commitment!
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Sun 5th Jun 2022 - Nowra | ||||||
Babylon Areas Occupied Territories Slabs | ||||||
13 | ★ Just Right | 10m | ★ Good | |||
16 | ★ Crunchy Nut | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Clearly bolted and graded by someone tall
|
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Sat 4th Jun 2022 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point Vine Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Donkey Dong | 20m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice steep thugging. Feels 22 after figuring out where the holds are, but took a shot to work out.
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24 | ★★★ Spank The Donkey | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Just missing the spanking move, couldn’t stick despite todays excellent friction. One previous go about a decade ago before the 2 extra bolts added probably left me scarred.
|
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Sat 4th Jun 2022 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point The Wastelands | ||||||
18 | ★★ Lucy Can't Dance | 22m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Never really noticed this before, quite good
|
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Sat 4th Jun 2022 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point Alley Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Bombtrack | 24m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Yes, it’s better than it looks, the top is quite fun
|
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Thu 2nd Jun 2022 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point Butterfly Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Butterfly Wall Direct | 20m | ★★★ Classic | |||
2 laps, getting up into undercling is my main problem, the rest is ok, but a few other spots you could fall. Will have to prioritise it this year
|
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Thu 2nd Jun 2022 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point Vanderholics Wall | ||||||
19 | ★★★ Vanderholics | 25m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, seems to be handling the traffic very well
|
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Thu 2nd Jun 2022 - Nowra | ||||||
Thompson's Point Alley Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Smiling | 16m | Average | |||
Doesn’t add much, and doesn’t feel much harder than the 18
|
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18 | ★ Suze | 14m | ★ Good | |||
Nice start, good late addition
|
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16 | Me | 8m, 2 | ★ Good | |||
Nice holds, bolts spaced
|
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Wed 1st Jun 2022 - Nowra | ||||||
The Grotto Cliffline Hogwarts | ||||||
13 | ★ Wingardium Leviosa | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Fun for the grade
|
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20 | ★ The Golden Snitch | 12m | ★ Good | |||
Getting off the block was the hardest move. Too cold
|
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15 | ★ Sirius Black | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
21 | ★★ Is Graeme Hill Severus Snape? | 12m | ★ Good | |||
So cold my back was seizing up after the big drive yesterday. Crack gloves are cool. Time to call it a day.
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Wed 25th May 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Left Wailing Wall | ||||||
13 | ★ Sob Story | 16m | ★ Good | |||
A fun little climb
|
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24 | ★★ Life in the Fast Lane | 25m | ★ Good | |||
A good way to exhaust ourselves before/ as the rain hit with a couple of runs on this. Shame about the ledges.
|
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Tue 24th May 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Watchtower Faces Kitten Wall Area Kitten Wall | ||||||
12 | ★★ Cheshire Cat | 22m | Average | |||
It was ok, I was just heading to anchors so as to clean claw. ( don’t ask)
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20 | ★ Tactical Cats | 22m | ★ Good | |||
About 4 grades easier than claw. Lots of gear. Nice enough.
|
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21 | ★ Kitty Litter | 22m | ★ Good | |||
Pleasant, nice face climbing.
|
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Mon 23rd May 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Kachoong Area | ||||||
18 | Mega | 10m | Average | |||
Just do Hurts.
|
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23 | ★★ In Phase | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty pumped compared to top roping it, even without having to fiddle too much with gear.
|
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Mon 23rd May 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Echo Crag | ||||||
17 |
★ The Singing Wire (The Singing Wire P2)
1
17
60m
2
17
30m
| 90m | ★ Good | |||
As a finish to leaden echo
|
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10 | The Leaden Echo | 78m | Average | |||
Like a Bluies exit corner, but nicer rock.
|
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Sun 22nd May 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
The Pharos and Surrounds The Pharos Death Row Pinnacle | ||||||
15 | ★ Rush Hour | 15m | Average | |||
Felt a bit contrived to make the grade
|
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23 | ★★★ Birdman of Alcatraz | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Gah. Came off at end of undercling section. Definitely not the first to do that. I did second this clean about 12 years ago, but I had forgotten everything…
|
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18 | ★★★ Death Row | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt. Good as one long pitch
|
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Fri 20th May 2022 - NE Mt Zero Range | ||||||
Golton Rocks Cave Cliff | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Gotham City | 25m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Dedogging mission continues. Great route, marred on my first lap by not reading the guide book and falling off after last bolt going left, which is what happened 15 years ago. Pretty freezing, couldn’t work the rests because just got colder in the wind.
|
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Fri 20th May 2022 - NE Mt Zero Range | ||||||
Golton Rocks Wave Wall | ||||||
21 | ★ Alfred's Slippers | 14m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Turning a roof without a double rack to weigh you down feels easy. This felt pretty soft.
|
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18 | ★ Holy Batmania | 11m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Short but fun.
|
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21 | ★ Holy Human Fly | 14m, 6 | Average | |||
May suit the short, pretty cruisy, I just didn’t like the rock
|
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Wed 18th May 2022 - Arapiles | ||||||
Northern Group Echo Crag | ||||||
22 | ★★ Honeycomb | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Having seconded this a long time ago cleanly, I didn’t give it proper respect and botched the hand sequence on the Alzheimers OS attempt. Then got rained on twice,though fortunately the lower part of the route stayed mostly dry
|
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16 | ★★ Nativity | 36m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Got on the right route today. Quite nice. The low roof shared with Honeycomb feels stout for the grade
|