Ascents by Vanessa Wills

End of day lap placing draws.

Not a bad addition for Glenrock

Had holds breaking everywhere at start(very reachy so trying to use intermediates)

2 routes, 4 climbs

Having done all the moves on the other routes….

Reacquainting myself with this beauty. Forgotten how I did the crux, the rest slowly came back to me.

Piked at lateral dyno but did the rest.

Better today with the cooler temps and the wall in shade.

Rpt

Rpt. Unfortunately someone has crapped at the base of this route, covered by a thin layer of dirt and our rope bag suffered as did my stomach for the rest of the afternoon.

Pretty easy if you are taller than me, but even so it wasn’t too bad.

If I just held onto minging seams and ignored the mono does that count?

This was quite fun

Took me a while to commit to the top out

Pretty crozzly rock on the way up and had to be careful with mantle

Couldn’t commit to the mantle without a spotter and down climbed

The exit right would require more commitment and spotters, I chickened out left which was still fun

A nice positive top out

About 15 times down, good up and down

Would be good if it was longer, an actual splitter hand crack that would repel many a sport climber…

Would be good with traffic. The abseilers moved in and prevented further action on the wall

Rpt rope solo interesting on traverse

The crack was pretty clean but the top needed a bit of brushing

Totally blue sized jams- except for the chicken wing section. Not sure I will ever get this

P3 only. Not sure if it’s the morning weeding or just decrepitude, but did quite abysmally. Had a police boat zip in to investigate for some reason. Will be falcon closure time soon, but no problems today.

Finally got to this area as sun went down. Great starting holds and a toe hook

Rpt, fig grown a bit

Rpt warm up

Not much new climbing ( so I don’t know why I fell off) however there appears to be a broken crimp at the second bolt making life more difficult

Difficulty depends on how low you start

May favour shorter people

The easy slab is also good

FFA. For a change I found this easier than Dave, the undercling traverse may suit the short.

FFA. May have been done previously? Done by 6 people, and the other climbers at the crag thought it looked ok and were considering bringing a trad rack in to do it. #5 or #6 handy.

Good first lead for beginners. Not convinced by the anchor style, the glue in bolt is too extruded

Rpt

Rpt

Rpt

Rpt

Moves past last bolt to anchors are a bit dicey due to ledge below.

Did I say I hate deep v grooves?

FFA. An acquired taste, I thought the climbing was quite good despite the dirt, and enjoyed the horizontal chimney exit.

We had to leave before we led this. Climbs quite nicely

FFA. Great slab moves, through a Rooflet, a slab Dyno and then a nice finger crack.

The prickly pear ( noxious weed) was removed leading to major dirt coverage, but should be good after the heavy rain

FFA. Dave and I had quite different beta, esp for the top. Reachy but possible.

Did the bottom bouldery bit and all the sequences on the slab, but a few slips. Need to be in the shade

Rpt to get the slab brain in gear

Still shedding little flakes. Razors on the fingers

Need to try again. Could be a bold DWS, no bolts to be put on these walls

One for offwidth connoisseurs. Slippery as.

FFA. A bit thrutchy but not too bad.

FFA. Amazing pocketed slabs, great for grade.

FFA. More funky pockets in the bottom half, may feel easier with longer arms.

FFA. Not as good as the others but some good moves. Finish a little exciting.

FFA. Good crack followed by unlikely finish on interesting pockets

Thin start with marginal gear possible after a few metres. The left finish awaits

FFA. Microcams and small wires useful. Nice climbing.