Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Tue 25th Apr 2023 - Woy Woy | ||||||
Phegans Bay | ||||||
20 | ★ B | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
Rpt. One very thin move, needed a good clean.
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16 | ★ NS | 15m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Nice
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Sun 23rd Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Slape Area | ||||||
20 | ★ Wizened Young Lads | 30m, 13 | Average | |||
Did this so I could be the 1000 logged ascent on this sector, but not really worth it. I found getting off the ledge scary. Fortunately a stick was there as couldn’t reach the bolt
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Sun 23rd Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Mount Piddington Eternity Area | ||||||
18 | ★★★ The Eternity | 22m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Rpt, always lovely
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18 | ★ Joslab | 23m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt, we thought we were about to get rained out. Tried the left variant finish as well.
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14 | ★★ Joseph | 46m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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18 | Executioner | 10m | ★ Good | |||
Very old school grade, very mossy and second bolt looks suss. Despite this it is an interesting climb that deserves a re bolt. Best to continue up hand crack above ledge ( past dead tree ) to cartwheeling mid anchors.
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Sun 23rd Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Darlz Walls Buttress 7 | ||||||
18 | ★ Timing is Everything | 13m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
A bit like the ironstone bits of BBB but a lot shorter
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Sun 23rd Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Darlz Walls Buttress 6 | ||||||
16 | ★ Paraphernalia | 27m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
Nice long route, the rock on the ledge is obvious to avoid
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Sun 23rd Apr 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Mount Victoria Area Darlz Walls Buttress 3 | ||||||
16 | ★ Shady Character | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
15 | ★★ Cut Throat | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★★ Off to the Glue Factory | 12m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Thu 20th Apr 2023 - Waterworks Quarry | ||||||
12 | Five Four | 8m, 3 | ||||
Setting up a Tr for the grandkids. Followed by sprints around the pump track which was far more exhausting
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Tue 18th Apr 2023 - Sand River | ||||||
The Panopticon Panopticon South | ||||||
18 | ★ Blue Eyes Crying in the Rain | 20m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
Nice, would be great but for the ledges
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14 | ★★ Just Another Day at the Office | 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
15 | ★★ The Nose of Il Cappuccino | 20m, 9 | ||||
Pleasant climb for grade
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20 | ★★ Cat Burglar | 12m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
17 | ★ Haiku | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Fun. Non jammers may not like this
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18 ~19 | ★ Light Fingered Mckenny | 10m, 6 | ||||
Is a 20 on thesarvo. One big move
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18 | Stitched up | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
16 | ★ Chutzpah | 10m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Mon 17th Apr 2023 - Sand River | ||||||
BBQ Crag The Balconies | ||||||
23 ~24 | ★ Jane | 9m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Still no luck on this crimpy beast. My negative ape factor is obvious on the bottom big move, I’m 5 cm short. Having to dyno will add a few grades. Feels at least 24 regardless going from there.
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Mon 17th Apr 2023 - Sand River | ||||||
BBQ Crag Wave Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Crest | 8m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
Felt twice as long as it was, quite thoughtful
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13 ~14 | ★ Point Break | 8m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
More like a sand river 14
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Mon 10th Apr 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Barley Walls | ||||||
18 | ★★ Fanciful | 30m | Average | |||
Rpt.
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16 | ★★ Whimsical Ways | 31m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, people keep forgetting to clean the bolt under the roof. We will return thebooty
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Mon 10th Apr 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops Waterfall | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Transporter | 20m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, enjoyable 3 d climbing, probably deserves anchors after all the trees burnt a few years back
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Sun 9th Apr 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Lindsay Rock Tops North Face | ||||||
21 | ★★ The Hippy Hippy Shake | 18m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt on Clive’s rope.
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19 | ★★ Mis Led | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt on Clive’s rope.
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21 R | ★★ Pork Orgy | 15m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
I still can’t believe I led this 17 years ago. I must have been mad.
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19 | ★★ Slabble | 15m | ||||
Still top ropable.
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14 | ★ Deep Water | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Soloed first time, led on gear this time, lots of small cams in horizontals
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9 | ★★ Short Shrift | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
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10 | ★ Self-abuse | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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10 | ★★ Thanks for the Mammaries | 15m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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Sat 8th Apr 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
Euglah Rock | ||||||
18 | ★★ Juicy Rumours | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, another nice trad classic
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21 ~22 | Queen of the Goths | 27m | Average | |||
Rpt, quick end of day lap. Probably more a 22. The rock at the bottom really is crap.
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21 | ★★ Shades of Grey | 32m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt. Would need a bit of cleaning testing out the new anchors over burning spear.
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19 | ★★ Burning Spear | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, such a nice route
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Thu 6th Apr 2023 - Kaputar | ||||||
The Governor North Face | ||||||
17 | ★★ Guided Missile | 80m | Don't Bother | |||
Rpt first pitch which is not too bad and worth doing but suggest abseil off tree. The loose blocks on P2 are still there and it was an unpleasant experience. P 3 ok. Going don’t bother because it’s a potentially dangerous route at present
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Sat 25th Mar 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Black Site Crags Black Site | ||||||
22 Easy | ★★ Spook Flake | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I didn’t think it was hard except the reachy bit straight off the ledge if you can’t reach the top of the flake. Both halves have nice moves. A bit too much mizzle coming in to do more today, but nice spot .
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19 | ★ Gumbo | 15m | Average | |||
Rock quality rather blah ( even the good bit) . Quite pumpy
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Fri 24th Mar 2023 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Celebrity Crags Jimmy Cliff | ||||||
20 | ★★ Hark! The .. | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★ Anal Leakage | 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★ Jimmy Valmer | 20m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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18 | ★★ Johnny's Jalopies | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★ Butt Nuggets | 20m | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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20 | ★★ Mr Christmas Poo | 20m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt
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Wed 22nd Mar 2023 - Glenrock Lagoon | ||||||
Waterfall Area | ||||||
11 | One, Two, Umm, Three! | 8m, 4 | Average | |||
Rpt
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20 | ★ You are not the bose, I am the bose — 2 attempts | 9m, 2 | Average | |||
Rpt, had to clean holds
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19 | ★★ Super Nintendo Chalmers | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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19 | ★ All Climb and No Belay Makes Jack a Shit Mate | 8m, 3 | Average | |||
Rpt
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18 | ★ Ferns and Fings | 9m, 3 | ★ Good | |||
Rpt
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Fri 17th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Dunes Buttress | ||||||
13 | ★★ Dunes Direct | 100m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I think Dave did variant on P2 left of the actual line at grade 16/17, it was cobwebbed and no chalk, but quite good.
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Thu 16th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Central Gully Central Gully Right Preludes Wall | ||||||
18 ~19 | ★ Interlude | 35m, 2 | ||||
The bottom crux felt 18. The top crux past the second bolt is scary for leader as invisible from ground above a ledge and at least a grade harder. Dave pointed to the good hold to top out. Definitely would not be physio approved…
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13 | ★★ Stalagmite | 36m | ★ Good | |||
Quite enjoyable
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11 | ★ Transylvania | 60m, 1 | ★ Good | |||
Nice start and crux. Convenient anchors. Not sure the physio would approve, but she did say I could climb easy stuff…
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18 | ★ Subliminal Cut | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Apparently been on this before
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12 | ★ Josie's Climb | 50m | Average | |||
Lovely rock architecture, wasn’t really looking for pro but it appeared spaced.
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Wed 15th Mar 2023 - Arapiles | ||||||
Organ Pipes Area Organ Pipes The Red Wall & Toccata Wall | ||||||
17 ~18 | ★★ Discord Direct | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Pretty good varied climb but slippery in spots. Didn’t want to risk falling and reinjuring my back
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22 R | Friendless | 40m | Average | |||
Personal top rope grade 19, probably feels worse on lead. We did the start but finished through roof to right
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14 | ★★ Tremulo | 25m | ★ Good | |||
Nothing like some hot desert air and vertical quartzite to help the bad back and junky chest
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Sun 12th Mar 2023 - Waterworks Quarry | ||||||
16 | ★ The Blind Leading The Crippled | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
15 | ★ Resurrection | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
18 | ★ Interloper | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
20 | ★ Drilling in the Name of | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
18 | ★ Phantom Stone Thrower | 20m, 5 | Average | |||
18 | ★ Bastard Cancer | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
18 | ★ Death Unto Racists | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
More back rehab
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Thu 9th Mar 2023 - Waterworks Quarry | ||||||
17 | ★ Jesus Built My Hammer Drill | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
15 | ★ Weetbix | 11m, 4 | Average | |||
12 | ★ Paradise Found | 12m | ||||
12 | ★ Eye Bolt Route | 10m, 5 | Average | |||
17 | ★ Twilight Groping | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
17 | ★ Don't Buy a Cheap Ryobi | 10m, 4 | Average | |||
Rpt, testing out the back carefully. It’s kind of nice to touch rock, even if it’s waterworks….
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Fri 24th Feb 2023 - Mystery cliffs | ||||||
Zone 1 | ||||||
20 | Bridge over the Mersey | 25m, 8 | ||||
FFA, such amazing rock, need to bring anchors to top of wall, but won’t be doing much for a while.
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16 | Louisach | 25m | ||||
FFA
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22 | ★ Kick the Waves | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
FFA, the last thing I did before the back went ping while camping later that night.
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Thu 23rd Feb 2023 - Sisters Beach | ||||||
Corruption Wall | ||||||
18 | ★ Harzweg | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
Felt sketchy in the spooge
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18 | ★ The Rapist — 2 attempts | 15m | Average | |||
If I knew this was my second last day climbing for 6 weeks I would have gone somewhere else. Awful spoogy conditions in the howling on shore
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Sun 19th Feb 2023 - Devils Gullet | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Salmonella Crack | 55m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Harder for me due to large hand size than DC. Spent the mid section with a hand in a cam hook configuration. The chimney felt like a relief!
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Fri 17th Feb 2023 - Devils Gullet | ||||||
Main Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★★ Divine Comedy | 100m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
The pitch only. The hype is worth it, what a great crack. Nice size for girl hands, varied throughout, it just keeps going. Only downer was the increasing weight of the mega rack Dave used. Seems like it had been done yesterday, so maybe was cleaner than normal. Shame the top pitch isn’t clean, it actually looks like it would be good climbing. Comments from yesterdays ascent made me laugh. That may have been me before I learnt to hand jam…
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Thu 16th Feb 2023 - Mersey Cliffs | ||||||
20 | ★ Hue Bris — 2 attempts | 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Despite the weather forecast saying it’s fine it was raining and rather slippery
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Tue 14th Feb 2023 - Blackwood Rocks | ||||||
American Woman Area | ||||||
17 | ★★ Ruchipa | 25m | ||||
Very dirty, and horrible start. If you are short just step on partners knee….
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20 ~21 | ★★★ Drop Zone — 2 attempts | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Found the moves to annd around the second bolt hard. The rest was really pleasant.
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22 ~21 | ★★ Elendil — 2 attempts | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I thought easier than drop zone, and liked it more. A little tricky to on-site I guess.
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Mon 13th Feb 2023 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
Duck Reach Vamp Buttress | ||||||
23 | ★★ No Standing | 20m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Thanks to whomever put in the new anchors since I was last here. This I think is my favourite route in the gorge. Got here a bit late, and it was damn hot, so had a single go to reacquaint myself, with one slip on the lower part, then time to go packrafting the Gorge!
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19 | ★★ No Parking | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Rpt, excellent crack
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Sun 12th Feb 2023 - Launceston (Cataract) Gorge | ||||||
The Shady Side Dammit Area | ||||||
25 | ★★★ Dammit — 2 attempts | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Well the start and end were good, suspect some rope assistance through the low crux and the upper one needed more work. Spent some time brushing someone else’s excessive chalk and tick marks- lest anyone think it was us, but it needs a good shower to clean it off. Will have to get fitter and return
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Wed 8th Feb 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes The Columns | ||||||
17 | ★ Datsun Sunny | 14m, 8 | Crap | |||
Even weirder bolt placement. Perhaps an early attempt at the dark art? Maybe I was just grumpy because it was freezing and climbing in mist and there didn’t seem any point getting on the better routes up here
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16 | Ford Prefect | 12m, 6 | Don't Bother | |||
A plus for bolt camouflage but minus a couple of stars for contrivance and bolt placement.
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Thu 2nd Feb 2023 - North West Bay River | ||||||
Dog Leg Bend Main Cliff | ||||||
24 | ★ Jumping Jack Russells — 2 attempts | 15m | ★ Good | |||
2 goes, unlocked a bit of beta, got rained off
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Tue 31st Jan 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes The Columns | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Icarus | 120m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Did the last 2 pitches in 3. Stopping at the notch seemed sensible. I led the last bit only which was not bad, but the crack below was good, though the chimney exit felt hard
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Mon 30th Jan 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes The Columns | ||||||
23 | ★★★ Ultrasound | 35m | ★★ Very Good | |||
I had to divert back into holiday after falling off the thin finger crux to make upward progress then moved right again. The stalactite feature was amazing but vibrates.
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Sun 29th Jan 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes University Buttress | ||||||
21 ~22 | ★★ Terra Nullis — 2 attempts | 30m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
I thought Peregrine ( 23) was easier than this, onsighted everything except the crux which was hard, especially with less reach. Got quite spooked above the crux, great exposure.
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Sun 29th Jan 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Teardrop Gully | ||||||
19 | ★ The Unrideable Chicken | 10m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
Really nice moves and rock up top
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18 | ★ Gone Viral | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
The top half was good
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18 | ★ Sleeping Dogs | 12m, 5 | Average | |||
Felt Contrived
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16 | The Bentwood | 12m, 3 | Average | |||
Long moves between horizontals
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Fri 27th Jan 2023 - Mount Wellington | ||||||
The Organ Pipes Central Buttress | ||||||
23 |
★★ Peregrine
— 2 attempts
1
21
25
Rock quality was not inspiring. A finger sized cam at the top would prevent a ledge fall
2
23
20
Finger size cam at start would be useful. Onsighted all the moves but could not get the 8 th draw on, spent about a minute of increasing pump. The thread sticks out 2cm blocking the small hanger. Was level with it, and of course could have moved to the other side of the arete, but I was feeling out there already. Did it second go. | 45m |