Grotto Wall Mostly Trad climbing 35 routes in cliff

The line, moving L then up at half height. Rap off Llareggub's DRB anchor.

A hold's broken off this, making it more like 24 than 22

Start: Start 2m L of 'Llareggub'.

Face L of Factoids, with a crux 3rp that is best placed on abseil. I'm going to put a bolt in. Traverse L after crux to finish up crack, rap off Llareggub chains.

Climb the wall L of The Flue; either directly (reachy to hidden fingerlock), or by stepping in L from a few metres up Hot August Night (thin and poorly protected). Chains rappel. A bolt appeared at some point but it has now gone.

Up 'Factoids' until rooflet, then step R and up blunt arete (pro a bit iffy). There is also a loose block up high, so don't go pulling it onto your belayer. Rap off as for 'Factoids'.

Start: As for 'Factoids'.

A hybrid route between Llareggub and The Flue.

1. 23m As for The Flue – the major chimney left of the grotto. Belay at pre-existing rap station.

2. 12m Up steepening prow, past left side of roof, to another rap station, as for the easy top of Llareggub that no-one does anymore.

3. 10m Easily to top of pinnacle for spectacular views. Descend north side of pinnacle into Pan Grove.

The arching grey buttress between The Flue and the grotto is an enjoyable easy route.

Start: Below the grey buttress at a tricky run-out slab.

Up the slab (poor pro) to the L edge of the grotto, then continue up the line above.

Pretty contrived.

Start: Just R of 'Bastress'.

1. 25m (22) Take the seam up L side of orange wall through bulge.

2. 10m (23) Move L across 'Bastress' to the steep orange wall (actually the R wall of The Flue). The original description mentions to take crack 'n ups... so have fun.

Climb the slab R of TITH, clipping that route's 2nd bolt. Probably best to top-rope it from the chains after leading TITH.

Start: R of 'Toad in the Hole'.

Up Catch 22 intil bolt on R can be clipped. Dive R for the catch, then layback the desperate flake to the arete and finish in the chimney.

Start: As for Catch 22.

Up the orange wall past 5 inconspicuous carrots. Apparently, finishing directly past the last one is the most 'enjoyable' way to do the route.

Start: At the R edge of the grotto, 2m R of Catch 22/This.

Position yourself at the base of the coq. slide up and right passing a bolt, then when things start to ease off, jump back on the coq and take it to the top.

Climb Bastress into the giant scoop. Traverse R about 8m till you get to some gear and go up the wall, then L up the arete to the chains of Hot Coq (which are over the edge).

Use pocket to get past the arch and then continue up to bulge (bolt). Pull through this (crux) and then ramble on to the top of the crag.

This is a complete sandbag - much harder than 22 and the bolt is rusted and looks rubbish.

Start: About 8m L of 'Boomer'.

An ancient route with complicated FA details... if you want the full story then look in Noddy's guide. Chris and Sue Baxter climbed the wide crack option on pitch 1 on 8/5/1983.

Start: Below the gaping chimney/gully starting halfway up the cliff.

1. 24m (15) Up to the overlap (peg), where hard moves past this on the left leads to chimney/crack. Best option is to take the wide crack on the right past a bulge, or continue up chimney to ledge on right.

2. 18m (15) Continue up the steep crack (on the L) to ledge. Belay here, then scramble up and L to get off.

Start: Original description says: "half-way up Boomer's 1st pitch, direct variant leaves gully for the wide crack on R wall." hmmm...

1. 25m (15) This probably means: climb Boomer's first pitch.

2. 18m (14) And then finish up 'Squeaker'.

A popular sport route (but you may wish to take some gear for the finish). Stepping left into Boomer for the first half is quite unavoidable.

Start below the orange wall near the highest point of the arch, and follow the line of fixed hangers.

Starts just left of squeaker on thin gear. Tricky left moves into line at about 8m. Go up to John and Betty's rap station.

Start: R of 'John and Betty', and just L of 'Squeaker'.

Another early climb. This one is supposedly better than it looks.

Start: About 7m R of 'Boomer'.

1. 23m (14) Up groove, then bridge scrubby chimney. Belay as for 'Boomer'.

2. 18m (14) Finish up the RH crack past a few dodgy blocks at the beginning. Descend as for 'Boomer'.

Up wall, passing roof on the L to big ledge at 30m. Walk off here, or take optional finish up V-chimney.

Start: 5m R of 'Squeaker', below prominent ceiling/nose up higher.