Werewolf Area Mostly Trad climbing 20 routes in cliff

Not quite as good as it looks but still not a bad route up the orange wall up left from 'Werewolf'.

Scramble up 'Silver Bullet' and find a belay ledge part-way. From here, continue up 'Silver Bullet' until you can step right onto the wall to gain the seam (some people can span this move, others may need to jump to the jug). The rock quality in the middle of the route detracts, as does the sit down rest in the cave. You can build a belay from the cave and walk off, or do the exciting overhang (which is over very quickly).

The lovely corner up the right wall of 'Silver Bullet' was probably the hardest climb in 'Victoria' in its day.

It's probably best to belay from the ground but some parties insist on scrambling up a few metres to belay at the very base of the line.

Epic route-finding, but most people would ignore the indirect start described here and start up 'Tribulation'.

Start on arete right of 'Werewolf', aiming to eventually climb the hanging corner high on the arete.

Boulder up seam past bolt to good ledge; there's actually 2, an old carrot and new FH placed for 'The Vampire' and it seems you can either go direct past the FH or go slightly right via the carrot.. Continue to jug just left of 'Colour Scheme' then go left a little and up headwall.

Start: Start at seam 3 metres right of 'The Trial'.

1. 18m (16) As for 'Full Moon' to a ledge at 18 metres.

2. 22m (23) Bulging wall to left, between 'Goodbye' and Let's Get Pissed to ledge. Left along ledge then right to finish up smooth grey wall just left of Let's Get Pissed.

Two good pitches with quite a hard start.

1. 40m (16) There are two ways to reach the layback flake, either head up left from the base of the wide crack or climb directly up the pocketed slab. Follow the layback flake to face above on right and now up and right to main corner. A good ledge at 18 metres can be a good belay. The corner gives easy climbing to a ledge where it ends.

2. 35m (12) Straight up steeply for 5 metres then up wall above, starting on right.

Start: Start as for 'Full Moon'.

1. 40m (16) As for 'Full Moon', belay on ledge below a short steep wall.

2. 15m (13) Across left on ledge to front of buttress, where a beautiful little corner leads to terrace.

3. 25m (13) Climb left side of pale yellow wall (left of FM p2) and up prominent diagonal line. Through bulge and on to top of pinnacle.

Thin moves left to base of flake then hard moves lead to roof. Traverse right to exit crack. Chossy rock to finish.

There's also a direct finish, grade 22, going straight up over roof. Jon Muir, Geoff Little 21-11-1988.

Start: Start 50 metres right of 'Full Moon' at smooth wall capped by overhang.