Routes in New South Wales and ACT for selected grade

5m R. Starts on high ledge near remains of a tree 5m off the deck. Access this by scrambling up from far R, then carefully walking back L. Clip first UB on Miss Sixty with long sling for safety while getting established on the line. Four clips (UB’s and FH’s) and very bouldery tension climbing. Anchors on smooth orange shield.

1m R. Scramble up to start ledge from R, then carefully wander over to far L of ledge (chalky choss) to U-bolt above a chossy white V-groove. Route blasts up from here passing 5 FH’s to anchor. Steep, bouldery and thin with a spicy top section. A bit of care with the beautiful start flake, please.

Behemoth is a beast mentioned in Job 40:15–24. The name has come to be used for any extremely large or powerful entity. 4m R. Stickclip first high bolt, but start waaay to the left up a vague ramp. Easy climbing up a corner, then smooth face to a sit down rest ledge (cave). Exit left out of this, and then - hold on to your hat! Super crazy amazing. Difficult to grade this endurance pitch.

Liwyāṯān is a sea monster referenced in the Old Testament. The word has become synonymous with any large sea monster or creature. Climb as for Bohemoth to cave. Exit out the right edge of the cave, then 8 bolts of gradually steepening climbing to pull onto a rest ledge below final headwall arete. A seriously fierce boulder section on pockets past two bolts guards the anchors. The hardest moves on the wall.

PYP into second pitch of Troglodyte, continuing into the end of COH

Climb Sugar Monster to anchors, then continue out to the left to finish as for Creature of Habit.

Sit start on the horizontal jug, big move up to slopey edge on left, then pop up to small edge and finish right on the jug ledge.

Mattias Braach-Maksvytis

Standing start on tiny crimps and head up to small left facing corner, then top.

Start on the far right of feature, follow left and up to top. Variations may exist.

Sit start on left, slap and slopers to thin crux then jug.

Sit start off low rail under the lip. Power up to crimps and finish up S8.

Start on crimps to the right and head up and left towards large feature. Holds have broken so grade could be different.

Start as for Spiderskin, but climb the obvious feature to the left where it ends. Then a very long reach to the left onto an slopey sidepull, then up to edge and then mantel finish.

Right arete from Fluming. Low start, nice moves up the arete to finish left.

Walk east, around the contour for 20m there is a small bouldering cave with one problem.

Start on juggy block to the right of the crack, move into aggressive hand / finger jam through roof to a tricky lip encounter and high top out. No earthworks needed, do not be tempted.

On the steepest section of rock directly below the second bolt on S.S. there is a bolt. Up past a BR to the 2nd bolt on S.S. Go up and slightly left past two more BR’s to top out. The BR to the right in the top section is still a project.

Start: 2-3m right of Low Flying Angel Same bolts. Boulder along under the roof (trying not to break your back) to join the original link-up and so on....

Five metres to the right of Shooting Star Cave and downhill is another cave created by boulders stacked on top of each other.

Sit start at the back of cave on obvious roof with a nice arete on the right. A right toe-hook on the arete and a left heel hook under the roof will get you off the ground without using the boulder at the end of the cave. Slap your right hand along the arete and use sidepull and undercling with your left. Follow the roof arete up into the chimney where it ends.

This boulder is 10 m down stream of Mad Woman's Breakfast.

Sitting on other boulders, there is a short roof under the boulder. From the start position, your back is to the river.

Sit start on obvious large sloping feature with your left heel by your hands. Up to a small slopey crimp, or if you like, to the very small, incut and very sharp flexing crimp. Then pull hard and throw up to rail, match then very hard mantel top out.

A direct line up the face that ratchets up the grade with each move

Very powerful!

Start: 3m right of Se A Cabo.

Follow the seam past four bolts. Lower off fifth bolt.

Start: The arête at the left end of the Buttress, before the big chimney corner. Start up the arête, trending right past the hangers to the horizontal break (big friend). Step up and power up the yellow streak past more hangers to lower-off under the block.

Straight up the face from the boulder. Balance your way up fused seam and on to the right.

Long sequence of technical moves to top

Burly start easing to top

Up from glued sidepull to long edge then left to hold at lip and mantle.

Obscure and crap, intensely reachy.

Meagre start holds, up to an inverted rail, a bull shit crimp and then link into the standing variant.

Start heel hooking on the easy right side and then through progressively harder moves.

Amazing arete with a peg and wire low down then the crux, then your on your own for the balancy stuff. So basically soloing. There is a sling and biner around a branch high in the tree for toproping / pro.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/14058315@N00/2638157463/

Awesome start hold but in the wrong place

Sit start on low pinch, move up through some crimps, towards tough move over bulge.

From the Waterfall Dome Parking area follow the quad trail to the Dome, once you see the "Three Stooges" boulders, go uphill passing the stooges on the right for about 100m. As the hill gets steeper look to the right and you should see this boulder.

Sit start on obvious feature and head to right arete with difficulty and heel hooking. Once you get there, keep going up and left to top. Then keep your heart pumping by down climbing the 'Sickle of death project'.

Thin, powerful, sharp, overhung.

Agapanthus left exit, start as for Agapanthus sit,climb the first half of the problem then match the high left flake, then bust out to the left arete/lip, then up and over left of the nose

The first line developed here. Sit start matched on the block feature in the back of the cave reaching back into the loose looking flake moving up to gain a series of right facing side pulls then moving up and left topping out.

Start for 'Halberd' and continue up and left to the three rightward facing pinches. Without moving left to the slot at the mantle of 'Halberd', climb directly up using a rightward facing crimp. Top out to the right, as per 'Bec de Corbin'.

Sit start on the right hand side of the boulder with left hand on pocket under the arete and left hand on crimpy pinch. move up and left to top out as for Tàijí Quán.

Hard to grade, need a second opinion but somewhere between V6 and 8.

Sit start on sidepull moving up and left through pocket. Top out.

Slow drying top section.

Stand start and straight up to the press out mantle. A great technical line that gets progressively harder to an easyish mantle.

As for ming the merciless but eliminate the big jug for your hands. There are some small crimps before it you can use.

Starts about 2m to the right of Han Solo. One move then a big throw/huck to the lip and mantle

2m right from Huck like Tom, Towards the lower end of the bloc. Sit start with left hand side pull and right hand crimp. Head directly up and mantle out.

Sit/crouch start as for The Aquarius, but go straight up with hands using the two crimpers on the left only.

Video link https://www.instagram.com/reel/CZDNsqOATFQ/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link

Stand start on a right hand edge and left hand undercling around head height. Make a reachy move to some dimples with the right hand and make your way up on edges to top out.

Climb the rail right as for "Dead Bolt" but once you gain the pockets under the little roof traverse back left underclinging various little knobs, make a big move left to gain the perfect fat pinch then straight up to finish at the lip.

Start: Sit start "matched" at the farthest left hand end of the big low rail.

Sit start as for happy pyramid then traverse right low to large span move, high jugs are out. finish as for golden pinch

Esentially a more direct route to the extended line. Start as for that problem and gain the big mushroom type hold in the roof. From here fire a big move to a bad flat block in the roof and re-join the established line near the very end. All the Holds of the established are not used untill right near the end just before the big horn. Tricky, Tricky

Start: As for the Extended Line

Start as for curve ball and make moves to the big mushroom in the roof then big move left to the lip and continue a fridge hug/compression to top out as for backburner.

Start at 'back burner' and reverse the 'established line' and come back up via 'Curve Ball' and finish as for that problem.

Traverse left using only the holds in the horizontal break. Follow the break to the very end as it gets progressively worse, to a slopey top out on the far left where the break rounds out.

Start: Sit start at the very R/H end of the little cave 'matched on the hole'

Link the tonic into Street legal

CLOSED PROJECT

From ledge move left and up flared crack.

Climb room with a view all the way to the slopey lip then bust up and left to good ledge before going straight up and up on some crimp rails before easy high terrain topping out. First done with a tied in spotter and it would be recommended.

Short, powerful, technical! Bust through the crux of calamari then head left on bad holds. Wrestle the bulge and traverse to finish at the anchors of Spider Pig. Bonus points if you find the bat-hang rest.

The line moving slightly right with big move to bird poo slopey ledge.

An epic line that follows The Red into Roast Lobster Mornay all the way to the top of the cave.

Start matched on the side pulls. Move through underclings and a sloper trending left towards the jug and top out.

Start from the same start holds as Analysis Paralysis, Instead of heading out left go straight up the direct. Cross left hand to a crimp just before the lip, move right to a sloper and head straight up through a tricky mantle.

Starting a few metres to the right of Analysis Paralysis. Sit start with hands on the lowest holds (A left hand rail and right hand crimp) Bust up to a block side pull and a slopey right hand crimp and make your way up and right to mantle and slab top out The 'stand start' from the block side pull and slopey crimp, probably goes at about 6

The best of hard routes on this bloc. On the backside of the First World Problems Boulder. Sit start on obvious jug and make your way directly up via a micro edge and some tricky heel hooking. Unsure on the grade.

Sit start matched on poor side pull moving up left then pouncing up to incut crimps that start 'Angry Ant Farm'

From the starting crimps, climb directly backwards. L/H to gaston, R/H to poor undercling, match, then a weird move gains the 'interloper' pocket on the inside of the lip. Finish up 'Interloper'. The entire top shelf ledge is off limits. A shoulder destroyer! I know

Start: Sit start in about the center of the right hand cave on two fairly incut crimps.

Normal cave start, bust out right heading towards the undercling jug using crafty toe hook and wraps. Take the cut on the undercling jug (Tuck tuck tuck!) and top out right. (Main jug rail is NOT in)

The same as love jugs, except keep going out on similar line and top out.

Low start into hot rats.

Start at hot rats. Big move to jug and finish as for Causes.

Start on the break on the right side of the Arête then climb the nose.

Sit start and up the arete on hard pinches.

Hard campus through the slopers at the end.

Located on your right as you're walking up the hill. An obvious overhanging prow bloc that looks like its leaning on a tree. Sit start at the back of the little cavelet on the obvious jug. Make some tension moves to head out left and around the lip on small edges to a tricky mantle.

Directly up; a few crimps and a few small footers. HAVE FUN!

Daughter Issues, direct left variant.

Stand start, two finger pocket and tiny crimp. Head left, arete is out. Top out however you can.

Sit start on crimps, head straight up, then move up the rail to mantle top out.

Mixed route. Start up SOAP then follow rings across the roof on slopers to the hanging fist hold then across to anchors

Start at Ring bolt above graffiti, in front of tree 3m left of Daily Grind. Easy start to powerful edge climbing, standing on some super small holds.

THE line, THE classic. The sort of problem you dream about. Rarely does a hard problem involve truly classic climbing - here is a genuine exception. Despite the landing and the high level of commitment necessary, Ain't No Easy Win is actually out of character for Jurassic - the rock is solid and with experienced spotters it is even relatively safe. Follow the sickle shaper finger tip overlap up the overhanging orange streak. Funky, powerful, continuous, desperate, awesome. A truly world class problem.

Orlanda

Same, same but different. Exit to the right via a long move to good holds.

Tyrone Clements

Rounded arete

Right arete of freestanding block. Fantastic.

Starts on jug deep in cave, finish with mantle over the lip. Crag Classic

Absolutely mind bending trad line. One of the great routes of this genre in Australia and in a spectacular location. Access by an easy paddle from Brooklyn. First ascent done by Johnathon Clearwater on pre-placed gear. First ascent with all gear placed on lead by Simon Bischoff 2018 at grade 30.

Crouch start on the shelf. Head out the great underclings to move over the nose to the top.

Link the Start of Stringybark into the 'Love Gun' finish. Hard!

Start up 6m left of Hercules to cave and step right onto face and rising traverse into Anticoagulant, finish at these anchors for 27. Finish up Bordella de Merde for the real deal. Long draws help with rope drag.

Start: 3m right of Isis.

Sustained and desparate climbing up the twin cracks.

Powerfully across the roof, then blast your way up the arete to finish on the same anchors as 'Dirt Trawler Left Variant'.

Sitstart on sidepull, hard pull up left and left again. Sit start meaning ass on the pad not crouch start or pad stacked

Chris Beers